uncledj
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Everything posted by uncledj
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Took a really nice trip to "The Pennsylvania Wilds" last weekend with the wife in the cage. My brother and I have a cabin near Sinnemahoning and the wife wanted to go up to see the leaves and do some local antique shopping. This was my first time stopping for a look see in Bellefonte. What a great town. We talked about retiring up in that area someday. Anyhoo, I noticed that I've two bulbs burnt out in the dash. One for half of the tach and another for the gas gauge on my 08 Taurus. I couldn't see if I need to go at this from under the dash or if I'll need to remove the part of the dash above the gauges. Anybody been into one of these before?
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I'm thinking Figs.
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Long Distance Riding - Part One: Setting the Scene
uncledj replied to twigg's topic in Watering Hole
Don't get too upset. I was being facetious. A bike, a car, a truck or any other vehicle driven on the road by a fatigued operator can cause a lot more damage than just to the operator. A motorist trying to avoid an errant motorcyle can easily cause injury or death to others, as compared to a biker who chooses not to wear a helmet, who can only injure or kill themselves. The same goes for riding in the rain, when a bike is less safe than a car, since the center of gravity changes on a bike, making it easier to slide out on a curve than a car, as well as the impaired visibility of a rain covered windshield or helmet visor on a bike; again, making the bike more dangerous. I was just trying to make the point that the less regulation, and the more reliance on personal responsibility and restraint the better. Sorry to get everyone off track. -
Long Distance Riding - Part One: Setting the Scene
uncledj replied to twigg's topic in Watering Hole
I know that after 400 miles or so in one day, I'm not as fresh, perhaps not as focused, a bit uncomfortable, (iron butt) and more concerned with getting where I'm going than enjoying the ride. I remember once when I was in my early 20s, after a long ride, fighting to stay awake on a ride somewhere between Ft. Lauderdale and Key Largo. Riding these long distances can be dangerous for some folks. There really should be a law against such dangerous activity....maybe limiting riding time to 8 to ten hours per day, similar to what truckers have to abide by. I'd just like everyone to be safe. -
It couldn't help but get political. No parties mentioned, just ideologies.
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Thank God that thread got deleted.....
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Gilberts....I've not thought of that place in quite a while. It was one of my hangouts when I lived down there in the mid 80s. Gilberts, the Caribbean Club and Holiday Isle, (now called Kokomo) were my regular stomping grounds. Up in the rafters at Gilberts is my name on one of the beams.....at least if they haven't rebuilt it all. I miss the Keys, but think I'm happier here in OH......sigh....the weather sure was nice.
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As far as the tire goes, I'm sure you're right. Should be pretty cheap anyhow. I think it's a 4.80 x 8 which is a pretty common tire. I have a 57 Ford Tractor / backhoe, and I think the rear tires are original. They both have been banded to prevent the tubes from blowing through, and I silicone up the cracks as I find them. At this point, it's kind of a game where since I rarely use the backhoe, I refuse to spend the $$$ to replace the tires when the old ones get me by......the tires aren't the only thing worn out on that ol' gal. Leaks, smokes, creaks, but always starts and digs great. .....Don't ask me how I got off on that tangient.....
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No, I can't see how it'd hop. The single wheel is on a swivel, which would allow it to turn.
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I went and checked it out. It was all there, but a lotta rust, the wheel and pivot turns smooth but tight. Plates say that it was last licensed in 86. I offered the guy $80 for it and he took it. I figured I couldn't go wrong. I'll weld up a hitch for it, sandblast and paint, clean and grease the bearings, will still have to determine whether to keep the tire or not. Looks ok, but pretty old. When I make a hitch, I was planning on making it to swivel up and down, but not turn. One poster suggested a u joint type of hitch, allowing the trailer to turn with the bike...which sounds interesting, but I'm not sure of what benefit I'd get by having the trailer turn with me. It seems like it'd be easier to back out of a spot without lateral motion.....any thoughts from anyone who's been through it would be appreciated.
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I thinks you'll find that you have a "Ford Chassis", not a "Ford Workhorse Chassis". Workhorse bought the old General Motors chassis division and used the GM big block engines. They have since sold out to International Trucks and there are no more GM big blocks. 2001 Challenger.prod 2 - RVUSA.com Could be...I was just going by what it says in the brochure.
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Glad to hear that you got your heater goin'. You'll be needing it pretty soon. I don't have a question, but would like your opinion on something Ford related. I bought a 2001 motorhome with a Ford Workhorse Chassis. It has the Triton V10 in it. What do ya think of the motor, and is there anything I should be on the lookout for? I'm planning on keeping this thing for a while, so I want to make sure I can head any problems off at the pass. Thanks:cool10:
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He wants $150 for it. It looks a bit rough, but with a little elbow grease (and paint) it might make a nice Winter project. I can fab up a hitch easy enough, but have difficulty imagining the dynamics of a trailer rigidly mounted to the bike, and leaning with the bike. I guess you wouldn't have to worry about it jack knifing anyway. I'll give him a call tomorrow and see if I can nab it. Any further opinions appreciated....I've never pulled a trailer and am not sure what to expect.
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Posted a pic and a link. (forgot)
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Don't know how I'd feel towing something like this. Was thinking about turning it into a motorcycle trailer, but don't know if it'd be safe. bjmrt-3269559198@sale.craigslist.org http://images.craigslist.org/5N85L15M83M93Fe3Jec9df2847bb5042e1d3b.jpg
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In their great wisdom the Founding Fathers put the Second Amendment only behind the First. They understood the importance of free speech, and knew that without the right to bear arms, there would be no way to protect the right to free speech. If we lose the Second Amendment, it's likely that we'll eventually lose the First. There are many who would scoff at this perception and believe it should be the governments job to protect us from all evils, but common sense indicates that this just isn't possible. They think that the risks of private gun ownership are too great, but with great freedoms come great risks. As for me I'll take what's left of the freedoms and accept the risks. I could go on and on about this (and many other) issue(s), but I suppose it could be considered political, and I know that's frowned upon in this venue. Anyhoo, that's my $.02:301:
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CONGRATS!!! Now do tell....what's the secret to not getting a sore butt on long rides?
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Wow. I'd hate to think of how many times that guy cracked up learning to do all those stunts. That's truly a case where man and machine become one.
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I was working in the basement of the Borden Building in Downtown Columbus, servicing some computer room cooling equipment. Thought the first one was an accident until the second one hit. Qwest communications (whose equipment I was working on) made all outside contractors leave the premises, since they handled government communications, and wanted to remove any potential security risks. Had a hard time getting through to work to find out where I should go next because the cell phone lines were overloaded. I had to go to a pay phone to get through. It wasn't until later that day that the gravity of it hit. Couldn't do much but bow my head and say a silent prayer for the dead / dying. That was living history for us all.
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Something you can try, if you have no way to read micro-amps is to take a copper core spark plug wire, strip about an inch or so from one end, then connect the other end to the ignition module in place of the existing spark / sense wire. Put it into and ignition sequence and hold the stripped end close enough to spark to the ground rod (next to the ignitor rod) and let it light, making sure the copper wire is fully in the flame. The ignition module should sense the flame and continue to burn. If it still shuts down after 5 seconds, chances are that the module is bad. I've done this a couple of times in a pinch when I needed to confirm a bad flame sensor. The sensor is simply a steel rod, so it's pretty rare that they go bad, but it does happen.
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Yes, that's an electrode, and yes, it's possible that they're using it to sense flame also. While I've never seen one like it, the fact that it has the additional bend at the end to put more of the rod into the flame seems to support this. If you could post info on the type of ignition control, or at least post how the terminals are marked, I could probably tell you for sure. Be aware though, this is NOT a thermocouple. Thermocouple and flame rod are two completely different beasts. Have you tried cleaning it yet? Be aware that there must be a good ground path from the burner back to the module for it to sense.
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Sometimes they use the electrode as the flame sensor. It can do double duty if it's set up that way. Make sure it's clean. If the unit is sparking and lighting, you need not worry about the sail switch. If it wasn't making, it wouldn't try to light at all.
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Are y'all talking about the furnace blower which distributes the heated air throughout the camper, or are you talking about the combustion blower, which creates a draft for combustion...??? Furnace blower will be energized either through a time delay, (delay on upon a call for heat, then delayed off after loss of call) or through a temperature switch, which would allow the plenum to heat up a bit, then shut down the blower after it cools. For a camper, I'd bet it'll be a time delay style, but I'm not sure. A combustion blower will typically run for 30 seconds or so as a pre purge,..as a safety measure, to clear the heat exchanger of any raw gas before the ignition sequence begins, then will continue to run for as long as the unit is firing, and in some cases (rarely) they'll have it set up to run a post purge as well.
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I'm not an RV tech, but I am a HVAC Tech. What seems to be happening is that it's going through an igniton trial, but not sensing the flame. It burns for 5 seconds waiting for the igniton module to sense flame, and if it doesn't it'll shut down to keep from allowing raw gas to build up. (safety issue) The most likely cause will be an oxidized flame rod. It'll look like a thermocouple, but with just a single wire coming off of it. Clean it with steel wool or a scotchbrite pad....avoid using sandcloth. If that doesn't do it for ya, make sure any ground wiring is intact, and making good connection. The flame sensing circuit will actually prove flame by passing a small bit of electricity through the flame to ground, and back to the igniton module. (Probably between 0.5 and 2 micro amps) If none of that does it for you, you may be due for a new igniton module. PM me if you need further advice.
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Depends on what ratings the switches have also. The only reason to run a relay at all is if the load of the lights is higher than what the switch can handle on its own. Driving lights can easily be a heavy enough load that a typical switch won't handle it. The marker lights shouldn't be an issue. If you have heavy enough switches, you don't need the relay(s) at all.