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MasterGuns

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  1. MasterGuns
    bump
  2. MasterGuns
    I know this is a long shot but what the heck....does anyone have a light bar in decent condition for the 1st Edition trunk (86-93)? If so and you are willing to part with it because you may need additional cash for the down payment on a new 2d Edition or maybe a 3d Edition, please let me know your cost. I will gladly take it off your hands for $$$$$! Appreciate everyone's reading this.
  3. MasterGuns
    Bump for more info...hopefully
  4. MasterGuns
    Before I start, I have done a bit of seaching this site looking for the problem I am experiencing with my cruise control but have not been successful. Not that I use it much, I am a little anal about things and if it is there, I want it to work as designed. Anyway, my cruise has always functioned until this weekend. My cruise would set and all seemed fine except this time, and several attempts afterwards. It would set but the speed would very slowly decel and after about 7 or so mph, the cruise would simply disconnect; not turn off, just cancel. I am not very spun up on this system and thought I'd ask around first if anyone has experienced this same problem and what they may have done to fix theirs. If anyone has any advise, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all,
  5. MasterGuns
    I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I say it will fit just fine. I assume it came with all the necessary mounting hardware.
  6. MasterGuns
    Why not the Texas Stampede meeting in Athens, Texas?
  7. MasterGuns
    Ah, "dedicated".
  8. MasterGuns
    A Puch 50. What did I do wrong?
  9. MasterGuns
    Is there a "wiring diagram" for the installation of driving lights with a relay somewhere on this site? I have searched and searched but have not located one. I have located a Thread listing several "Tips" but no illustration. Can someone either point me in the right direction or provide a simple drawing showing all the components; driving lights, on/off switch, relay, battery, fuze, grounds (think I've got the all) and how these components would be connected? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
  10. MasterGuns
    Hey Props, The brass washer that everyone on this thread is talking about does not go on the stator cover. The brass washer is suppose to be placed on the middle bottom allen head on the MIDDLE GEAR cover. I have an 88 and my bud has an 83 and both have the brass washer. Also I used to have an 86 and ditto. Just my two cents. Great your rubber plug on the stator cover wasn't leaking. I hate that thing.
  11. MasterGuns
    Nice stuff. How long do you expect the passenger boards to stay looking that nice or are they coated with something? I've polished aluminum to a chrome like finish but bare aluminum tarnesses quickly.
  12. MasterGuns
    To be honest, I have had a hard time finding a difference. Before my last stator went Tango Uniform, my battery voltage at idle was usually around 13.65 now it around 13.85 or so. At 2000 rpms, it increases to just over 14.1 but that is with everything electrical on; high beam, two 35 watt driving lights, radio blaring, cb on, 6 front LEDs (WLED-5As wedge), 14 rear LEDs (WLED-Rs wedge), a white light LED license plate frame, the brake light on (also LED) and a 3.7 LED light bar on (3 on all the time and 7 more when brakes are activated). I purchased the highout stator, or what is proclaimed to be one anyway, from R&M Stator in Canada and so far, so good.
  13. MasterGuns
    I doubt it is your gasket leaking. Most likely the rubber plug the stator wires go through. This is the most problematic oil sealing device on the entire bike. I personally get stressed out every time I have to re-install the stator cover because of that doggone plug. You are going to have to take it back apart and really clean the part of the cover that plug interfaces with. I mean really clean all the oil away not only from the surface of the cover but from the plug itself. I just installed the same stator and the wires that came with the new stator did not fit snuggly through the three holes in that plug. So rather than take a chance with relying on any kind of sealant to seal the holes where the wires fit through the plug, I used a couple layers of heat shrink over the wires so they would fit tightly. I then used ample amounts of high heat rtv gasket maker and no leaks. Give it a try. Need your help! Did a preventative stator change on my 89 VR getting ready for a 3000+ mile trip since the original stator had almost 60k miles on it and I run a lot of extra lights. Installed the new stator (high output) in under two hours and was feeling really good about it until I got back from a 30 minute ride and had oil dripping from the kickstand. The leak has definitively been isolated to the bottom most seam of the side cover (between the rearmost two bottom bolts) and is making a real mess. Have changed the gasket now 3 times... once without sealant and twice more with two different types of sealant (yamalube, RTV gasket sealer) applied with no luck. There are no cracks, scratches or dings, and both the side cover and case look square with a straight edge applied. This bike was tight and dry until the cases were split... and as an old aircraft mechanic leaks drive me CRAZY! Thinking about double gasketing... any other ideas? Thanks in advance for your help!
  14. MasterGuns
    And there are other high quality show chrome bullet lights available without spending over 50 bucks for the pair. Heck some may even be better looking than those overly small ones. Check out the pics in my pic library and no wires showing at all. Mo money does not always equate to better. Shoddy I can't agree . I have put the same lights as lonestarmedic on my 2nd gen and as many miles as he has I think mine will last for a very long time.And personally I think they look just as good as yours.So to worry about or criticize another... I say to each his or her own. that would be why we call them our own.
  15. MasterGuns
    Just curious; has anyone installed LED accent lights on your lst Edition VR? If so, how many and the color did you add? Also where did you add the accent lights and are they connected directly to the battery or???? I am considering such an install but ask for opinions and advise, if there are any. The bike is pretty close to being in original condition and thought this accessory might add style and or improve visibility. B/r
  16. MasterGuns
    I suppose that could be accomplished but the plastic face is also all gouged/scratched up. The entire face needs replacing. Thanks for your thought though.
  17. MasterGuns
    My doornail is reading "0" volts with my multimeter, just checked.
  18. MasterGuns
    Would anyone have the face plate for a lst Edition Class controller? To define this clearer, the one I have works fine but the glass plate is seriously cracked and the face plastics is awfully gouged from who knows what. Anyway, all I need is the cover or face plate. I can remove all the interior working stuff, and reinstall it into another serviceable faceplate, that is if anyone has one and is willling to part with it. I will pay $$$. Just make known what you need for this part. Thanks so much,
  19. MasterGuns
    When you say "listed", do you mean on Ebay? Also, is the "like new brown seat" a stock seat? Thanks
  20. MasterGuns
    Try this.. Battery Cable Install
  21. MasterGuns
    Just looked; nothing yet!
  22. MasterGuns
    After even more thought, I sent you another PM Thanks Masterguns
  23. MasterGuns
    Also sent PM
  24. MasterGuns
    Thanks BuddyRich! I was hoping I was right the way I was figuring things out. Knowing how limited the charging system is on these lst Editions, this is a great way to reduce the load; just a tad bit costly. But well worth the cost.
  25. MasterGuns
    Need some electrical help here. I just replaced the 14 - 5 watt wedge bulbs in my lower light bar. So my questions are and am I correct in the following: 1) Amp draw for the 14 X 5 watt incandescent bulbs I removed was: 14 X 5 wts ea = 70 wts divided by 12 volts = 5.83 amps and 2) Amp draw for the 14 LED wedge bulbs I just installed is: 14 X .026 amps at 12 volts = .364 amps Therefore; reducing the load by some 5.46 amps. I also replaced both the stock 1157s in the taillight with LEDs purchased from "superbrightleds.com" and believe me, they ARE brighter. I then tied in the light bars into the taillight wiring in order to increase the load on that circuit. This seems to have eliminated the "warning" light on the dash from thinking a taillight bulb was blown. So what they come on together. Now whenever the brake light circuit is activated, the amp gauge doesn't drop at all and I have more even more visibility at all times. I used to be concerned watching the amp gauge drop significantly while sitting at a light for extended periods of time holding the brakes on. Are my above calculations correct or am I way out there in left field? Perhaps somebody more inclined than I can advise. Thank y'all
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