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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    It is not a sound. It is a physical felt vibration. The whole bike shakes.
  2. Flyinfool
    I have an '88 Venture Made in '87 with 35K miles. Not a Royal I am getting a strong vibration at 3,000 to 4,000 rpm, strongest at 3,500. I get this vibration in all gears including neutral with the bike not moving. It does not mater if I am accelerating hard, steady speed or decelerating. It is strictly engine rpm dependent. Above or below that rpm and it is nice and smooth. Any ideas of where to start looking?
  3. Flyinfool

    wolo horn

    Flyinfool replied to rod's topic in Watering Hole

    As you can see from that Stebel info, the db drop off very fast with distance. Every 3db doubles the volume. Whether you are blowing your horn at a cage from 4 inches or 2 meters, it is already to late for you. I want to know how different horns spec out at a more reasonable distance of say 20 yards. As I posted above, a train horn is 125db at 100 yards. So that train is louder at 100 yards than a BadBoy is at 2 meters. (the Stebel sure looks like the BadBoy) Now...... How to get my grubby mitts on a bunch of different horns to test.........
  4. Flyinfool

    wolo horn

    Flyinfool replied to rod's topic in Watering Hole

    Or save a couple of bucks. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97099 I just wish the horn makers would give info as to how they are measuring db. A place that I used to work for made real train horns for trains. They are rated at 125db so you would think that these little horns we buy are louder. The difference is that the train horn is rated 125db at 100 yards. I think that lot of these little horns are rated right at the horn. Hmmm... Might be time to get out my db meter and do some testing.
  5. Flyinfool
    We are getting a lot of the same story here in Milwaukee. HD is going to shut down AT LEAST one Milwaukee plant along with more big layoffs. While HD is not the biggest employer in Milwaukee it is certainly up there in size and can still have a significant impact on our economy. As I often tell my friends that are strict HD only people, "When HD starts making a water cooled, shaft drive, 4+ cylinder, QUIET, vibration free, bike with a frame mounted faring, I'll consider buying one. Till then, they do not make anything that interests me." I hate to say it but I think that the HD execs went to the same business school as the Chrysler and GM execs, "We will make what we dam well feel like making and you will just have to learn to like it." Heck the new HD CEO does not even own a motorcycle. I am sure that he is well in tune with what the customers need/want. p.s. I am sure glad that Milwaukee just took 2 out of 3 from the Chubs.
  6. Flyinfool
    Are you giving it enough time? On my '88 when I engage the cruise it takes quite a while (1 to 1.5 miles) to stabilize at speed. If I set it at 65 and release the throttle it will drop 10 - 15 mph before it starts to gradually and very gently pick up the throttle. It feels like it is programed to never make any quick throttle changes.
  7. Flyinfool
    Do you really want 3,000 lbs of metal close behind you and really POed? I either drive faster or pull over and let them get by. I can then follow them to find all of the radar for me. What might really work is to get a strobe from the top of a school bus (check bone yards) mounted under your trunk. I don't think anyone would want to follow that close. On my P/U truck I get a lot of really small cages crawling up my tail to draft me. I have replaced my back up bulbs with 55W H3 bulbs. I have a switch to turn them on when needed.
  8. Flyinfool
    I've been looking at data sheets for LEDs. All of the 4,500 - 17,000 LEDs are fairly big and REQUIRE a heatsink for cooling. Walt Since you have the unit apart can you measure the physical size of those LEDs so that I can look for a brighter replacement that will fit the same circuit board pads?
  9. Flyinfool
    I am still trying to figure out how to put these on my V1. http://www.hornblasters.com/ I have them on my truck and i like it. Check out their vids.
  10. Flyinfool
    Not having any idea what kind or size of camper you have............. In the pics they show a small utility trailer off the back of the bike lift, I could see that. BUT, You are looking at putting 1,000 lbs on your receiver hitch, (860 lbs wet weight for a venture + at least 140 or so for the lift). Then you want to add another 400 or so lbs of tongue weight for the camper and that weight will be cantilevered about 5 feet back from the receiver. The extended receiver is not connected to the same part that is connected to the truck, the new receiver is on the bottom of the lift so all of your tongue weight must be added to the bike weight in that 1000 max weight. I think you would be happier hanging your bike on the back of the camper and then front load the camper to get the tongue weight back, making sure that you do not exceed the weight ratings of the camper. Another good option would be to trade your camper in on a toy hauler camper, now you have a complete system designed specifically to do what you want to do and your bike will be indoors protected from weather and crime while traveling.
  11. Flyinfool
    Those are the 4 seasons that I have known for all of my life. Fortunately it was not a sharp edge on the manhole cover, there was a radius equal to size of the asphalt grinder, they had not done the cleanup yet. The tires and rims were checked very carefully as well as the frame for any cracked joints.
  12. Flyinfool
    A couple of weeks ago I noticed a good crop of orange barrels starting to grow alongside the highway, no biggie, this is Wisconsin, . Last week on the way home from work In a severe Thunderstorm that came out of the predicted clear skies, (gotta love meteorologists) got to a section of road with no extra markings BUT IT WAS GONE. the hole was filled with water right to the pavement so I never noticed the drop till the bike dropped down off the edge of the pavement. Fortunatly the hole was only about 4 inches deep but now I am at at 45mph in 4 inches of water over a gravel road, Before I could get back under control and slowed down I came uo to a Manhole cover that was sticking up 4 inches but invisible in the water. I saw it a split second before I hit it and all I could do was to hang on tight and get all of my weight to the pegs. I have no idea just how high up in the air the bike was, bit it was a lot higher than was ever intended for my poor old V1. Some how I managed to stay upright and get slowed down to finish crossing he11. I rode slow the rest of the way home not knowing if I did any damage to the bike. My shorts were not worth saving. The next day I cleaned all of the mud and crud off the bike and inspected everything I could, no damage. It was the next day that they put up the road closed signs and baricades. OK Rant over.
  13. Flyinfool
    The schematic calls for a 330Ω resistor and the parts list calls for a 150Ω resistor. Which did you end up using?
  14. Flyinfool
    Regardless of what the safest cage to drive is (that should be its own thread that might be fun), the bottom line is that WE have a 0 crash star rating. While we would like for others to be looking out for us, that is not the real world, it is up to us to have our heads on a swivel and be watching for them.
  15. Flyinfool
    Twice now I have avoided getting my backside creamed at red lights by watching the mirrors to see the cage coming and blasting through a hole in traffic because a cage never saw me or the red light. Both times the cage did not make it through the intersection in one piece. Fortunately both times it was a small cage that found a truck in the cross traffic so no innocent people were injured. My time is pretty much split 50-50 between the mirrors and ahead.
  16. Flyinfool
    There are rare earth magnets in a hard drive, but they are really tiny, compared to what I used, and may very well not be enough to make a difference. I have not tried that one so I can't say for sure.
  17. Flyinfool
    Here is the magnet that I used. It dos work for me. There are no ill effects to the bike that I have noticed yet. http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X06-N52
  18. Flyinfool
    Well I finally got to try out my magnet at the intersection that was giving me the worst problem. All of the times in the past when I wanted to get thru that intersection there was never a cager to be found going my way. So as Murphy would have it, My first 6 attempts to ride my magnet thru the light, a cager pulled up across the intersection at the same time so I could not tell if It was the cage or me that tripped the light. After many rides around the block I finally managed to get there all alone. IT WORKED!!!!! Just like magic the light and left turn arrow tuned green when I pulled up. 5 times in a row. So I took the magnet back off the bike and tried it again to be sure that they did not just adjust it. No magnet, no green. I then parked the bike and put the magnet in my sock at 4 inches off the ground and walked up to the light and HA!! I got an immediate green. now granted I do have good iron content in my blood but I don't think it is that high. I now have the magnet semi permanently mounted to the center stand just above the left pad and all of the traffic lights are behaving. Me Likey
  19. Flyinfool
    I just did the new oring on my '88. I got a SS screw from the hardware store and machined the end to match the old screw. I did this on a lathe, but you could do it by putting the head of the screw in a drill chuck and then using a flat file to file it down to match. The ball detent and spring vanished to who knows where. Since the screw retains the valve is there any force trying to turn the valve while riding? Do I really need to scrounge up a new spring and ball?
  20. Flyinfool
    That is really the bottom line for me too. I really do not want to put the extra wear and tear of restarting the bike at every red light on lightly traveled roads. I have had no luck with positioning of the bike with side stand up or down and trying to find the wire in the road. There are a lot of intersections that have been repaved so you have no idea exactly where the wire is, and the new asphalt moves you another 2 or 3 inches farther away from the sensor wire. I have received a very powerful magnet that I will be trying out as soon as weather permits. This magnet will pull the picture on a computer monitor or TV from more than 2 feet away. It is rated at 182 pounds of pull. It has warnings that it should not be handled by people with implanted pace makers or defibrillators. My concerns were about the effects of the magnetic field on the systems of the bike. I will keep it as far away from the stator and starter as I can. I plan to put it on the bottom of the frame or center stand as far back as I can get it. Does anyone know if there are any sensors back in that area that may be affected by a strong magnetic field??? Does anyone have any idea if this will/should be more effective with the north pole up, down or sideways???? I hope to be able to report back soon that the weather has gotten better and whether this works or not.
  21. Flyinfool
    ROFLMAO The intersection that is giving me problems has new asphalt and there is no way to guess at exactly where the sensor wire is hidden. I have tried moving my bike all over to see if I could find "the spot".
  22. Flyinfool
    OK, this is an old thread. But then I am old to, but new to riding. I have looked up the Wisconsin law on this and you must wait 45 seconds before proceeding thru the red light. I just bought a powerful magnet to stick on the bottom of the bike to help trip the lights. There is one light in particular that is vehicle triggered to cross a major highway. You can easily wait 10-15 minutes to catch a break in traffic to get through, or make a right and go a half mile to a spot to turn around. I hope that this will trigger that light. This magnet is rated with 182 lbs of pull so I do not think I will even need a cable tie to hold it on the bike like the commercial ones do. As a side benefit, maybe it will pick up that next nail that is destined for my back tire. It was cheap enough to be worth a try. I'll post back how or if it works.
  23. Flyinfool
    FWIW I took my '88 in to the dealer for a tuneup and checkup at 36,000. The dealer told me that It is not worth the effort to check the valve clearance till 60K. He stated that he has never seen one that needed adjusting with under 60K. I trust that statement since it is a dealer turning down work as unneeded in a slow economy. I will go back to him.
  24. Flyinfool
    Each one of those "air" guns are on its own nitrogen tank. When I used to race cars we noticed a big difference in change of tire pressure during a race with air vs nitrogen. Air would gain 5-7 lbs during a run and nitrogen would gain 2 lbs. In a race condition you can feel a 1/4 lb change in pressure. With the race tires the side walls are so thin to save weight that it is one giant leak. If you spray a tire with soapy water it turns into a big white donuts. The tire will be flat within 12 hours. Air vs nitrogen made no difference in that respect. A big bottle of nitrogen cost around $30 to refill and lasted for 7-8 weeks of filling all of the race tires and also acting as the "air" supply for all air tools in the pits. There were 3 sets of tires plus spares for each night of racing that all had to be filled and changed from that tank.
  25. Flyinfool
    Did you strip the screw or the hole? If you stripped the hole there are left hand Heli-coils.
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