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6m459

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Everything posted by 6m459

  1. 6m459
    Well, did ya ?
  2. 6m459
    I have been planning to do just that on my Ventures. Are there any pix you could post of how your dash looks now? What did you construct the covers from ? I have some gray 1/8" pvc sheet I am thinking of using. I plan to put a holder for my MP3 player in place of one vent or the other and will mount an amp in places where the vent ducts used to be. I plan to install this with some big glove friendly buttons on the dash as follows: MUTE, Vol UP and Vol DN. Cheers, Brian H.
  3. 6m459
    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8181
  4. 6m459
    Greetings from Uxbridge Ont, just a bit down the road from you. I have two '84's, my faithful Old Blue and my new red one! I am very happy with them both. Hope you enjoy yours & happy trails! Brian H.
  5. 6m459
    As I understand things, the OEM crank case vent tubes go to the air box so that the vacuum created by the combustion air flow, will draw combustible gasses out of the crank case and into the combustion stream. With your new setup, you have ambient air pressure inside and outside the crank case which won't vent the combustibles. I don't like the looks of it, I'll be keeping the OEM setup on my bike thanks. Brian H.
  6. 6m459
    My '84 blue one has always started like this. It isn't really a problem getting the choke on in time, I don't have to be that fast but if I miss the right moment....................., she don't like it. I have always assumed this was just the nature of the beast, but my come lately '84 red one likes the choke on first and is a bit more conventional overall in her choke requirements. I have written it off to individual personalities and lived with it. After all its just good sense (and survival strategy) for a guy to remember how to please the girls. Cheers, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont.
  7. 6m459
    FWIW, here is my contribution to the tech section on my fuel sender repair. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10519 Good luck. Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
  8. 6m459
    My blue '84 seems to leak a bit of coolant over winter too. I thought I was in for real trouble at first but she doesn't do it in summer just a few drips in winter while in storage. I really don't understand but I can live with it. Brian H.
  9. 6m459
    There was a post here some time ago wherein a sluggish tach was rejuvinated by lubing its needle movement with sili-kroil. http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p9113.jpg My red bike has a sluggish tach, I have resolved to give this a try next spring. Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
  10. 6m459
    Hi, I have a pair of '84's but, for reasons I won't go into here, have had to contemplate non OEM replacement of the dash dimmer module. This is what I came up with as an alternative: http://www.bakatronics.com/images/fk804.jpg http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=383 Suggest that with a bit of creativity applied to mounting and wire splicing, it might be the solution to your problem. Cheap too! I bought a couple but was able to repair my O.E.M. dimmer, so have not used them. Likely I will use them instead for controlling the heat to my electric gloves. The on line purchase was trouble free and they work as well when tested with a lighting load. Hope this helps, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont.
  11. 6m459
    I did eventually get the plug out and all is well, no damage to threads or anything like that. Oh and I was turning it the right way. I let the kroil sit and tried again next morning. It came free with a SNAP! Either the kroil worked or I was stronger in the morning, don't really know which, maybe both. Thanks for the input & suggestions. Cheers, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
  12. 6m459
    Even some epoxies these days claim to be good for casting thread repair. I have yet to put them to the test but it sounds too good to be true to me. Brian H.
  13. 6m459
    I'd like more light too but the condition of the old stator put me off adding any.
  14. 6m459
    I am using a 6mm hex key, which seems to fit properly. I have it on my 3/8 drive rachet and a foot of pipe on the handle of the wrench. Seems like a he11 of a lot of force to put onto 6mm! Haven't tried tapping it with the hammer yet, I'll let the kroil soak till moring and then if its still stuck, I'll get out the hammer and then more heat. I was a bit leary of heating the plug as if memory serves there is a dip stick on the other end that could be set in plastic or some other material that the heat would damage. Any advice about use of heat and damage to the dipstick setup? Thanks, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
  15. 6m459
    Yes this wire thingy is installed. Confirmed this myself when I did the starter clutch. As it represents at least an 80% blockage in the hole itself, I don't understand how its supposed to provide any more or less cooling, but it IS there. 2 amps = 24 watts remember. How many watts is the stock stator capable of delivering and how much spare capacity is there over stock demand? I'll bet 24 watts is a BIG fraction of the spare capacity. Brian H. C.E.T.
  16. 6m459
    Can't get the rear drive oil filler plug out on my red bike. It seems stuck fast. I have tried some heat and currently have some kroil soaking on top of it. Its dark now, so I'll leave it soak till tomorrow. I am afraid of deforming the hex of the plug if I put on too much force. I havent tried the drain plug bolt yet but everything is very dry on this bike so I'll bet it will be a problem too. Suggestions? Thanks, Brian H.
  17. 6m459
    I blame the electrical load of some heated gloves for the demise of my stator last year. http://www.orbitonline.ca/~bjh/rmstator/P0002376-650.jpg In this PIC, you can see the old stator on the right, a used OEM one from ebay in the middle (and an aftermarket one on the LHS). Notice how toasted the old one looks compared to the replacement used OEM one? I think that the extra current through the stator going to the gloves, about 2 amps, was enough to slowly kill off the original stator with heat. I have resolved not to use those gloves again till I buy or build a controller to limit their current draw. Its one of those back burner projects, you know? Hope this is of interest and of some help to someone. Cheers, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont.
  18. 6m459
    Hi, My 'new' red '84 has a similar problem that I have traced to the sender unit itself. Here is the process I used to come to this conclusion, suggest you proceed similarly as follows: Sensor is located on the underside of the engine near the oil drain bolt. In this picture, the red circle is the oil sensor unit, I think (not my pic, I stole it from an ebay auction but it jives with my recollection of the lay of the land under there). Physically trace the wire from the sender unit up the frame to where it joins the bike's wiring at an in line single wire plug & socket. (Its about 18" of wire from the sensor to the plug but I cannot recall the route of the wire at present and I am not near the bike now, sorry.) Once you find that plug & socket, disconnect the sensor from the bike by unplugging plug from socket (now you really should have a CMS oil level alert on the dash). Use an alligator jumper lead to ground the bike side of the plug/socket. Connect to a good frame ground. Assuming you have a good solid ground, if all is well you should see the dashboard oil alert go away possibly after a couple of seconds delay. The CMS interprets the jumper to ground as the sensor saying YUP GOT OIL. With known good oil level in the engine, use a multi-meter to check the sensor side of the plug/socket for continuity to ground. In my case I found it to be open circuit. Thus I concluded that my sensor is at fault. I kept the multi meter connected and watched its reading as I manipulated the sensor's wire all along its length. Up close to the sensor, I found that if I twisted the wire one way, I had open circuit and if I twisted it a different way I'd get good continuity to ground. From this I concluded it is something to do with the condition of the wire going into the sensor. I have resolved to remove the sensor and investigate further the next time I change the oil, as removing the sensor likely allows the oil to drain and I had just finished an oil change. Hope I have been clear and that this is of some assistance to you. Best regards, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont.
  19. 6m459
    I am getting 45 - 46 miles per imperial gallon pretty consistently since '05 on my 'blue '84 standard. It is primarily highway mileage by the way, done in the 80 - 120 km/hr range. I put my '05 - '08 mpg spreadsheet here for your interest. Cheers, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
  20. 6m459
    While opening the insturment panel beware, one item is missing from the disassembly steps listed in the previous post. I found out to my cost, that the panel illumination adjustment knob is held on by a very small phillips head screw deep down the centre of the knob. Jeweller's screwdriver size. I wish I had known this 12 hours ago. BJH
  21. 6m459
    Thanks one and all for your insights. I have topped up a bit and it seems to be behaving itself. I haven't been having a good day today on various fronts, so I think I'll puzzle over this one again another day. Cheers, Brian H.
  22. 6m459
    I have not seen a full level mark on the inside, where do I look? Why put a full line on the inside when you have a sight glass? I have always inferred the word "lower" on the sight glass to mean 'don't fill beyond this point' presumeably because the reservoir isn't always level and if filled beyond this point some may slosh out the vent when leaning on the side stand or tipped for any other reason. Am I out to lunch here? Thanks, Brian H.
  23. 6m459
    Thanks, but in both cases, the CMS always reads properly when I remove a sensor from the circuit and simulate its function with a jumper lead. Also when I test the sensors with my multimeter, their behaviour is equally erratic. I think this demonstrates pretty clearly that the problem is with the sensors themselves. Also, I doubt it is a hall effect sensor. My bet is that its a reed switch & a floating magnet. Brian H.
  24. 6m459
    Sorry, I should have said. The bike is level, its on its centre stand in my garage (the floor has a couple of degrees tilt towards the door, to aft as the bike sits, to shed water but is essentially dead level). Handle bars oriented straight ahead. I narrowed the cause of the CMS alert down to the front fluid level switch by using a multi meter at the connections behind the headlight. By watching the meter, I can see exactly when the float switch triggers. It behaves as you suggest but not at the right level nor particularly consistently at any level it seems. I have alternately filled the reservoir to both the level indicated on the sight glass and to the level that satisfies the switch and have used a pointy tool to gently sink the switch float and then let it bob up again. The float itself appears to be sufficiently bouyant, yet it looks to me like the float switch is very insensitive and does not trigger at the correct point at all, nor particularly consistently at any level. I have had my CMS out, this past week, and have resoldered all connections and joints. None looked suspect before hand (and I have made my living doing electronic production Q/C work in the past so I know a bad solder joint when I see one) but I reflowed them all to be sure. If I put a jumper across the wires, behind the head light, that the front fluid level switch should plug into, then the CMS is happy. After sleeping on this overnight, I am wondering if the magnet in the float, that causes the switch to trigger, has lost its potency? If I recall correctly there is a ciirclip that looks as if, once removed I could lift the float out of the reservoir. I am thinking of trying other magnets in there some how. Anyone got a spare float? BTW, I seem to also have a similar situation with my engine oil level sensor switch but I have yet to investigate that as fully. Thanks, Brian H.
  25. 6m459
    My red bike has an issue with the f/b fluid level sensor float switch. I seem to have to fill the reservoir too full of fluid to satisfy it. If I put in what it seems to want, it over flows when I put on the lid. If I put in fluid just to the level indicated on the sight glass, it doesn't satisfy the level switch and I get the red flashing CMS etc. Is this common? Thanks, Brian H
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