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Showing results for tags 'wire'.
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I am looking for a junk headset that someone may want to part with. I need the mic from one that goes in an open face helmet. I have a new Elite series 584 for a full face and the mic is just a wire so I need to have the boom mic so I can attach it to it for an open face. Hope this all makes sense.
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I have a tach that is for a 4,6 or 8 cylinder hookup. Where should I attach the lead wire (Grean for signal) from the tach? The rest of them are self explanatory its just the lead wire I am somewhat confused about. TIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I am trying to figure out the problem that is been confusing me. I have had my carbs cleaned and was still having an issue so I pulled the wire off of the right rear plug and put in another and placed it to the block to check for a spark. I noticed a small spark when I turn bike over than stopped until I reached 4500rpm then recieved a big spark. repeated the same test to theleft rear and noticed no spark at all. Would this be a wire or coil issue? I have a 1985 Venture royale 1200 cc
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I ride an 08 tour deluxe, I keep blowing the headlight fuse. I have installed passing lights wired in according to instructions (no relay). I also have it wired for a trailer. My question is this. If i keep shorting out headlight due to driving lights, shouldnt the driving lights go out as well? They stay on, and I wasnt pulling trailer either time when it happened. Besides each trailer wire has its own fuse, unless short is in behind license plate. I am guessing pinched wire near handlebars? Just looking for ideas on where to start when it gets light out. Thanks in advance....
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can clearance lights "led" be wired to act as run/turn signal only ?? want to put some on side of trailer but only as run/turn, no brake. have 4 wire set up with 5 to 4 conversion on bike. any thoughts??
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So- I finally decided to build a bike! It may take a while, but eventually I'll get it right! Here's a pic of what I have so far: http://www.nps.gov/plants/sos/training/typicalshipment/images/Step%2001%20Empty%20Box.jpg But seriously folks, my old man has an basket case FXDWG that needs to be put together, and he's agreed if I build it, I can ride it until he sells it. So if you have any spare building materials laying around let me know! The building is done, I just have to insulate it, wire it, and do the interior walls. It won't be a Venture, but considering the pickle I'm in (identity theft, baby on the way, and return of the inguinal hernia) I'm not gonna be too picky!
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I bought a Street Magic load equalizer and set of 4 LED turn signals from a friend for my 2nd gen. The SM load equalizer has 4 wires; purple wire to left, brown wire to right, orange wire to positive, and black wire to negative. Everything works fine but when I turn on the CB and I turn on the left or right turn signal I get a lot of static over the speakers. The orange wire connected to the positive wire is connected to the blue tail light wire. I disconnected the orange wire and connected it straight to the positive battery post and the CB does the same thing. I took the black wire and connected it to the negative battery post and it does the same thing. I disconnected the Street Magic and of course my turn signals flash fast but the static is gone. If I get load equalizers off ebay I will need four. Does anyone know if I need 25 watt 60 ohms or do I need 50 watt 60 ohms or does it matter. Anybody have any ideas on either system??? Thanks, Harry
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I finally got my new to me trailer "thanks roadkill" wired up tonite and i'll say it was real easy. However when i started reading howto's by other members i thought it would be difficult. Some of ya made it way to complicated and intimidating but after a while i said screw it and did it this way... bought a "CALTERM" # 08079 tailight converter 5 wire to 4 wire spliced them in under the seat by the battery and wala i got lights. the beauty of the calterm is the converter is in the plug in where the the trailer plug goes so you don't need to get all fancy with splices and sh%& like that. so easy a caveman could do it....... "me" oh ya only $13.99 !!!!
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Anybody here have experience with wire welders? I am currently looking for a welder to use around our place. I just want something to use now and then for light duty repairs. I do want a welder that uses 115 volt. I see that you can buy welders that use flux core wire and they say no need for gas. Then others use gas. I don;t know enough about these to know which is best. Of course then you have the stick welders and I guess that is a whole different type. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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I've done sea foam twice and sync'd the carbs, installed new plugs. I rode about 105 miles or so today so next I'm going to pull the plugs to see how they look. OK...so I have the side cases off to do the carb sync and change plugs. I've just received the Plastex kit so I rode with the plastic off while I work on them. Tonight I went for a ride and kept getting a "pricking" feeling to my inner thigh. I thought it might have been a sharp end of a cable tie or a wire twist tie sticking me but after a few checks to see what it could be I realized it was the spark plug wire giving me minor zaps! (both left and right) So...perhaps a stupid question...but does that mean I most certainly need new plug wires? But I'm getting 34 mpg (US) or 6.1 L/100 km or 40.8 miles per Can. gal. and that was at least 3/4 of the time doubled up! SO....I now am thinking my bike is not doing so bad....and that it just isn't the powerhouse that SOME PEOPLE (who shall remain nameless eh Yammer Dan???) is just putting us on about these 1st gens being such an amazing powerhouse! -
Well I just did the clutch upgrade on my '09 RSTD with about 1700 miles on it. Took about 2 hours altogether including cleanup and pulling the discs out after realizing I left the washer in there. Good thing I checked the excellent writeup on the site to make sure I was on the right track. All in all it was not to hard but I did worry when I got to the wire, was not sure how to get that out without breaking it. The half disc was hard to get out because it is in there so deep. Any way the clutch pull is a little harder as people have said. I think the friction zone is slightly larger but it engages later on in the travel. I think that is a function of it grabbing better. Any way time will tell. Not sure how you would be able to get that wire back in there if you were to go back to stock. David
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Not Bike related, but some of you may be interested. My wife bought a Humming Bird feeder last month. I hung it on a wire from a tree limb, close to the house, and never seen a bird around it. A friend told me that it has to be hung away from tree limbs. So, Saturday, I moved it and hung it on a wire from the soffit, under the rain gutter, in front of the large bay window. And this morning there was two humming birds feeding. Really an interesting sight. I didn't know we even had these birds in the neighborhood. It sure attracts them. The feeder is first filled with water, then add sugar and some red food coloring. Works like a charm. Now I've got a new unique hobby!
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I installed an AGM battery and to turn off battery warning light I just sniped off the probe and connected the wire to a positive terminal of the fuse box and it seems to work fine. I just read the mod in the First Gen tech library and the post said to use a resister in the line before hooking the wire to a positive terminal. Is there some reason a resister should be used?
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Didn't have anything quite wide enough to plug the AIS, so I got the biggest tapered wire nut I had in the workshop, wrapped the outside of it a few times with duct tape to make it snug in the hole, and then duct taped over the plug after insertion before reattaching the hose. Works like a charm! Didn't do the front AIS yet, but I'll use the same thing when I do my next oil and filter change and can get to it easier. Go me! -
just wondering if anyone has info. on how the bike should be wired for a 5 wire flat plug. Left signal, Right Signal and ground are easy enough. I want to concentrate on the brown and blue wire and what they should be connected to on the bike. Just going over the wiring to make sure it was done properly from the previous owner.
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Was wondering if anyone has run into this before. I just resurrected a pristine 1984 venture 20k original miles, the bike was a mess when I got it but she's alive and kickin. I rebuilt carbs, heavily varnished. Synched ran but poorly alot of popping and poor power so I pulled the TCU and it was shot full of corrosion and water, I also noticed a homemade jumper wire going from the 3 to 4 coil, I cut but left in place, then went and bought a used TCU and it ran alot better but still not right. I then reconnected wire and it runs like a champ.. Any thoughts, I'm afraid its overdriving the drivers in the TCU, is the TCU bad, is the coils bad, is the pickups bad?. Anyone done this and why. Thanks Mike -
Battery goes dead in about a week of no use (rain). I was told to put a fluke meter in between the ground wire and neg post and start pulling fuses. Battery reads 12.3 volts across the post and 11.5 with the fluke meter between the ground wire and the post.No change with pulling the fuses.(switch off position) NEED HELP Mike
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I have just purchased a new KOSO GP Style Tachometer with Water Temperature, BA551B23, (first item on page 12 here): http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/ Paid $150, delivered. The idea was to reduce the number of gauges I need by one to fit them all under the dash, like this: [ATTACH]46369[/ATTACH] So far, my report is decidedly mixed. First, the gauge is very impressive in the details of construction and parts supplied. But that is dampened by the absolute WORST Chinenglish - no, let me rephrase that - the documentation that comes with this thing is not NEAR good enough to be even derisively called Chinenglish - let's say Chinengiliberish! Not only is the wording so bad that much of it is totally unintelligible, but a few very key points are absolutely WRONG! The wiring harness is very impressive, with each section connected by plugs. The harness for the water temp sensor is just barely long enough for our bike, but I guess that is better than being too short! The tach input can be picked up by EITHER connecting to a coil or wrapping a wire around a spark plug lead. Compared to the minimal length of the temp sensor wires, the wires for connecting to a coil are plenty long enough to connect to your buddy's machine as he rides next to you on the highway. The gauge mounting hardware is all rubber mounted, and while the bar clamp is specifically sized to use on a normal 7/8" bar, it will work on our 1" bars with a bit of effort. The gauge itself is a bit larger than the 1 7/8" mini Drag Specialties tach which I prefer, but if you get it positioned just right it does fit under the dash at full lock, but just barely! Partially because this gauge is completely electronic, the wire connections are just slightly different than usual - one wire connects to battery hot, and another wire connects to ignition 12V. There is no separate wire for dash lights, so they are on all the time. While this probably makes no difference to most folks, it irks me a bit since I have the other gauges wired separately to a switch specifically for dash lights. Oh well . . . I can learn to live with that. The tach is truly a universal tach, as there are settings to select for both two stroke and four stroke engines, from one cylinder all the way up to 12 cylinders! But you do need quite a bit of imagination to understand what the instructions are trying to tell you about how to set those selections. Likewise, the temperature gauge can be set to display either Celsius or Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, the biggest issue is that the gauge did not work for more than 5 minutes! Everything seemed fine when I first hooked it up and set the proper formats, but the next time I turned the key on, the LCD display (temperature and configuration settings) was completely blank. The tach still seems to work OK, and the lights are on, but I can't get anything from the mode buttons or any display at all on the LCD screen. So now I am waiting to see how much trouble it will be to get this thing replaced. I'll let y'all know how that comes out. Goose
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Hi everyone! So I figured that I wanted to make my first post a good one, so here it is. Pics at the bottom. I had been looking into my options for a tachometer for quite sometime and was rather unimpressed with the steep price tag and the style of the available motorcycle tach's. So I did some internet hunting and found a company based out of Michigan that makes Retro style tachometers for classic and muscle cars. You can find them at Classic Instruments. I thought to myself, oh now wouldn't that look good on my RSTD. Before I knew it, I was whipping out my cards to make a purchase online. With a lots of humming and hawing about which model to get, I ended up getting the All American Nickel 3-3/8" Tachometer and the chrome cup insert. Total $198US. Took about 4 days to ship to Canada! Not bad eh~! http://www.classicinstruments.com/images/products/AN80SHC.JPGhttp://www.classicinstruments.com/images/Tach%20Cup.jpg Once I received my new purchase I went to work right away. However, I had to really think about where to mount it, how to mount it and how to get it to work. So in case if anyone is wondering, read on. First off, where to mount it. I have a Uniq Cycle Classic speakers system (long story, I have the system but I currently waiting for a replacement amp because the first one was faulty. Not happy with those guys.) that will occupy the left and right portions of the handle bar, so that was a no-go. I decided to mount it dead-center about the speedometer display because that would give me enough space to not interfere with the windshield. Second, how to mount it. I was stumped for a while on this one. One of the problems was the chrome cup insert was far too long. If I were to mount it, the tach would stick way out over the front of the speedometer unit. I noticed that the tach itself was quite a bit shorter than the cup, so I decided to cut the cup insert down. I cut about an inch or so from the opening. I also cut down the screws (the ones that you bolt on the wiring to) on the back of the tachometer to shorten it down some more. After the trimming work I had reduced the length on the tach enough for the front of the gauge to sit flush with the speedometer unit. I spent a good amount of time trying to figure out a way of fixing the tach to the top of my speedometer without having to drill holes or welding to the pretty speedo casing. So I took an old stainless steel stirring ladle from the kitchen and went to work bending it into shape. I apologize for not taking step-by-step photos of the process, I was just... lets say... in the groove. I ended up bending the ladle with a slight arc, following the curve of the speedo casing, and a sharp 'S' shaped bend at the end. I drilled a hole in at the end of the 'S' shape and easily mounted it to the one screw that holds the speedo casing in the front (if you stand right in front of your bike and look at the speedo casing, you will see the bolt). The ladle works perfectly because it has a slight curve to it already and it follows the curve on the speedo casing. I then took the cup insert and the ladle and welded them together. I would assume that you could use some kind of adhesive or jb-weld. But since I have a MIG that I am always trying to find uses to justify its purchase, it was quick work . It was a simple one bolt job from there to permanently but non-destructively fix the tach to my bike. Third, the wiring. Not fun trying to figure this one out on your own. I will just write down what was the winning combination. Then tachometer has a 4 position selection screw on the back for calibrating. 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder, 12PALT. Sorry V-Twin friends, this mod is only for us!. I basically ran a wire from the 'signal' terminal on the back of the tach to the ignition wiring. It runs with many of the wires that are located above the ignition coils. The one you want is the only wiring harness that is made up of just two wires, white and black. I hooked up the signal wire to the white wire, set the tach calibration to 12PALT and SUCCESS! For me, the 12PALT setting works. It does act a little funny at about 4000 rpm while accelerating, where the needle with suddenly retreat slightly and the advance forward. Now I know there are other ways to set up the tachometer. Classic instruments sells a multiple ignition coil adapter gadget, or there is this one that you can build yourself. I'm going to live with my setup because its totally livable in my books. I also wanted to have a nice clean look for the tachometer wiring, and didn't want any ugly wiring exposed. I tried to look for some nice 'chrome' plastic wire covering but couldn't find any. So I ended up going to the plumbing section at the local Canadian Tire and buying a 20" braided steel flexible hose. I cut off each of the screw ends and slipped the wiring through it (I bought a pack of trailer automotive wire while I was at crappy tire for the tach wiring). I slipped one end of the steel hose through the rubber grommet that is supplied with the tachometer and the other end of steel hose around the speedo unit and into the steering cover. From there you just wire up the tach + and - terminals to the auxiliary wiring harness that is located under the seat. I also jumped a wire from the + terminal to the 'light' terminal on the tach, which keeps the tach light on all the time. I will try to take some night-time pictures. From there I just bought a small tube of silicone caulking/adhesive and put it around the rubber grommet, braided steel hose, tachometer and cup, and between the bottom of the cup insert and the speedometer casing. The last one is important, it prevents the tach cup assembly from scratching the speedo casing, and it eliminates and noise from vibration. The tachometer unit does not interfere with the windshield in any way so it can be used with or without it. One thing that I did notice that when I went for a ride on a hot day, I got a bit of condensation on the inside of the gauge glass. I remedied that by drilling two holes on either side of the gauge just behind the glass. This should prevent the build up of condensation. It also allows you to use a can of compressed air to clean any condensation that may build up (and it works really well too!). All in all it was a successful modification. I am really happy with my cool retro tach, its easy to read (due to its large size) easy to see placement, and its lower price point. http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8552.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8554.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8553.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8545.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8547.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8564.jpg?t=1276000546 -
Hi all, just got a 83 Venture xvz12 and have some headlamp issues. Somewhere down the line someone jumped the headlamp power wire directly to the headlamp. All I have is lowbeam and the icon on the display is lit up and a flashing warning lite. I suspect the Reserve lighting unit may be bad, I have battery voltage going to it at the green/red wire if I remember correctly. Is there a way to test this unit or bypass it? What exactly does this unit do? The manual does not seem to be a wealth of info here. Any other suggestions? Any input greatly appreciated,thanks, Neil. -
If you test thre wire 0 ohms it is copper. In the end cap there is a resistor of some kind. can't be tested with o meter. How do you know if it is good or not.?
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OK. I've added some red flexible LED strips to the chrome pieces behind the saddlebags on my 2nd Gen Venture to augment my brake lights, but, I can't get them to work. I know the strips work because when I connect them directly to the battery, they work. I tried wiring them to the yellow wire (brake) & a black ground wire to no avail. Can anyone help me with this? Thanks.
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Someone asked me how I converted my Tape Deck to a MP3 Player. The best info I have is here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41100 I used Scotty's and Frankd's schematics to come up with one that works between the two. Here is a simplified color diagram I created. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/SimpliedInstructionsforMP3Input.jpg Here is where I located my 3PDT switch. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0955.jpg Here is the "tray" I made out of (aprox.) 1/4" thick clear acrylic plastic. I cut it out using a dremel and razor blades and then glued them using plastic glue. I got some simple hinges and drilled holes and screwed in screws (put plastic glue on threads). http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0956.jpg I then cut off the rest of the screw that protruded through the plastic (cut slowly because it heats up fast!). After that, I placed a drop of glue over the rest of screw in hopes of it staying in place. After it's all dry and the holes are cut, I painted it with flat black paint on the inside and the blue paint to match the outside. Oh, almost forgot the magnetic latch assembly I installed as well... It was a pain to cut the plastic out and get it to fit...lots of glue to fill the voids. I also had to cut into the plastic face to make it fit. Notice the screws I used to hold it in place so that it doesn't shift. That may be required to keep it in place. Once again, cut off the excess protruding screw and cover it with either RTV or glue to prevent any scratching of items placed in there and backing out of screw. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_1056.jpg I found a "marine" grade 12V outlet. In installed it and then made one wire connect to a ground on the frame. The other wire connects to the right side of my accessory fuse spade and then the left side of the accessory fuse connects to the positive battery terminal. NOTE: I'm using the fuse box made by Skydoc_17 that mounts in place of the factory fuse box. *Something not mentioned in my schematic is that the common (ground) wire inside the 3.5mm headset wire is usually unshielded wire wrapped around each (Left and Right stereo) wire. You'll have to unravel the bare wire and twist the two together to make a common ground that connects to the black wire from the bike's cassette harness. EDIT: Here is where I found the "Marine Grade" 12v Outlet at Amazon.com [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket/dp/B0002KRC5Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1274422515&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: Marine Grade Cigarette Lighter Socket 12 VDC: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31BRN43V71L.@@AMEPARAM@@31BRN43V71L[/ame] -
I'm installing a Back-off brake module and was wondering where to attach the ground wire. Should I attach it to the frame or the battery? Thanks
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I am looking to hook up my heated gear.My plan was to run a relay off of a wire that is only hot when the bike is running. Does anybody know of such a wire on the RSDT? I have them on my cars and have had them on 2 Yamahas. I have studied the wiring schematic but I can't find one. Thanks
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