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Showing results for tags 'wire'.
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Hi, I can not find the answer on any of the threads. I have purchased the Stebel Nautilus compact horn and an Amanet preassembled wiring kit. I installed the wiring kit as described but when I power the bike the horn starts sounding immediately. Somehow the wiring is not correct. The description says that I should connect one wire from the set to the power wire of the old horn. There are two wires connected to the old horn, a red one and a brown one, and when I connect the wire set to either one the result is the same. What am I doing wrong? Is there anyone out there who purchased the Amanet Plug and Play wiring harnes modell SNPNP successfully? Thanks, Robert:crying:
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Ok, the last thing I have to do on my wiring is find the wire from the factory horn buttom so I can locate it to use it as a trip for the relay on my new LOUD horns. I already removed my old horns and built a new harness for the new ones but that may have killed the old circuit. When I am probing the wires in the handlebar harness I'm not finding a hot one when I push the horn buttom. And yes....the key is on. Thought I might ask before I have to tear down the switch control to see what it is.
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Hi, I just purchased the Stebel Compact Nautilus horn to replace the horrible stock tweet on the side of the bike. The horn arrived in good order but with very unclear installation instructions. I don't know how to wire this one up. The package included a 4 way plug and I see a plus and minus on the bottom of the thing. I hooked it up to the two stock wires but that only produces a strange vibrating noise. Not good. Is there anyone out there who can provide me with clear instructions on how to wire this up? Thank you! Robert -
OK, I have read a few threads here about that doggone battery light that wont go off. I have one. and have followed the recommended fixes to the tee. Even purchased the 2.2 and 1k resistors and tried fooling the light to go off. No deal. I am just about to resort to the duct tape fix like some have recommend but thought I give it one last shot by soliciting guidance here. The battery is good and tests at 12.45 volts even after sitting for some time. But just to be sure while trying to diagnose this thing tonight I had a battery tender on it and it had gone up to 12.55. Anyway, it does have a battery sensor attached between cells 3 and 4. There is a resistor in-line just after the sensor. Voltage just after the sensor is 6.24 volts. Voltage at the plug is 6.24v where it connects into the white with red stripe wire. I had even followed the white/red wire to the connector on the back of the CMS at the rear of the instrument panel - voltage 6.24v. Therefore, I thought the CMS had gone bad. I had a replacement and tonight I swapped them out. Result - Battery Light still flashing. What the heck! Any ideas here from those that perhaps have been confronted with this problem. I am all ears or in this case; eyes. -
I HAVE AN 07 RSTD I HAVE 3 OF THE 4 WIRES CONNECTED BUT I'M NOT SURE WHERE TO CONNECT THE GREEN WIRE THAT GETS THE SIGNAL FOR RPM's. DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE THIS SETUP. HELP -
So I bought the firestik and a mount. I'm sure this sounds retarded but how do I connect the wire? Thanks!http://www.kilik.com/antenna1.jpghttp://www.kilik.com/antenna2.jpg
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The low beam on my '83 was dim and according to most all that would have related to the computer. Shop figured it was a relay. As it turns ou it they ound a burned wire in the harness. Unfortunatey the new wire run bypasses the computer, which means my warning light stays on:headache: Two options, cut out the warning: how? :confused24:or re-wire again and this time do it right, but I am not that technical:confused: An advice would be welcome. Of course my wife says I should get a new bike:big-grin-emoticon:
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has anyone done a connection for a mp3 into the audio system on a 1st gen? I was thinking of going through the cassette deck, but need wire colors and assignments, for the plug that comes out of the back. thanks
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Just got some led accent light. Six small srtips of 5 or 6 lights per strip. 1. is it best to put them on their own on/off switch or jsut wire them into the running lights? 2. wire them up in parrallel or series (after an inline fuse of course)? For under the trunk, I was just going to tie 2 of them into the led tail light. Then 2 under the tank, one just above the radiator and maybe the last under the seat above the side covers.
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Ok. I am having the problem with the headlight icon staying on my display, and getting the flashing red warning on my '83 Venture. I started out with the headlight, and the battery flashing, because I just put a new battery on, and the terrible whine in my speedometer. I did the 1k ohm resistor fix, and took care of the battery icon...great fix, thanks. I also removed the instrument panel and greased the speedo bushing with white lithium grease...works great...thanks. I then resoldered all of the connections for the big white connector, plus a few more cold joints that I found. After all of that, the only problem I still have, is the headlight icon, and flashing red light. All of my lights work fine. Any more Ideas, before I get out the schematic, and pick the bike apart wire by wire?
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1. Get a (mercury?) tilt switch and any toggle switch, (10 amp?) I had a tilt switch laying around from Radio Shack for years. From pink wire side of the horns (or experiment), won't hurt anything, go the the toggle switch then to the tilt switch then to ground. The tilt switch will be tilted on an angle so it is off when the bike is on the side stand, but once the bike is pulled upright to ride (or be stolen) the tilt switch makes contact. Horns go off (if it is hot wired). 2. To make it work any time, just disconnect the brown wire to both horns and run a fused wire from the battery to both horns. Horns now will work anytime with the tilt switch or the horn button. Locate switches in one of the locked side pockets of the fairing. Very simple, very loud, very unexpected, very cheap. May want to cover electrical connectors at the horns so they can't be disconnected. Mercury switches maybe banned, I'm sure other types are available.
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Ignition Switch Failure A big thanks to Eck Nace for the excellent write-up Clicking on the pictures will show a larger version. For those of you who have not had ignition switch failure I recommend that you check this connector as soon as possible. This is the connector for the Red Hot wire and the Brown & Blue wire that comes from the ignition switch located under the fuel tank. Luckily, I just happen to “turn” the connector upside down while installing the ignition switch by pass mod in the case of ignition switch failure. View of ignition switch connector under fuel tank. This is the connector for the RED wire and the Brown/Blue wire View looking down at ignition switch wire connectors under fuel tank. Note: The two wires that you see with RED TAPE are the two wires used to by pass the ignition switch. One of them is the RED hot wire and the other is the Brown/Blue wire. Mental note: When splicing into the Red wire and Brown/ Blue wires, it is highly recommended that you make your split connection on the “aft” end of both connectors. This way if you ever DO have to remove the ignition switch, you can still unplug the two connectors with out having to cut the two by-pass wires again. Also, as shown in this picture, if the connection on the brown/blue wire did happen to burn up and where I lost connection, I would STILL be able to use the ignition by-pass switch I installed to start and run the bike. After I cut the burnt connector out, I installed this connector in its place. Please note: Only (2) wires go thru this new rubber sealed connector. The RED hot wire and the Brown / Blue wire which both go to the ignition switch. The black wire may LOOK like it goes through this new connector but it does not. Photo of removed burnt connector This photo is to show the location of the ignition by-pass switch installed in the case of ignition switch failure. I wanted the by-pass switch located in a convenient location, where I do not have to get off the bike if the stock ignition switch fails.
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So I (re)installed by stebel horn today with a relay relay post 85 to pink wire relay post 86 to brown wire relay post 30 to fuse block, which is connected to positive battery terminal relay post 87 to positive horn terminal negative horn terminal to negative battery terminal I also installed the Kury battery charge indicator. Pretty straight forward install. Use a pen light to locate switched on power wire. Light lights up when the key is turned to on position. Does not light up when key is turned to off position. The wire I used is green w/ a white stripe. It is part of a 3 wire block that is not used which is located on the clutch side of the bike. What I did was crimp a terminal (don't know the actual term) that can be used to push inside the wire block like how the stock blocks are used. Just looks like a thin flat piece of metal. Negative wire to ground. I had my battery tender hooked up and it is giving me a green light. Turned the bike on and the battery charge indicator is giving me 2 flashing red lights. I unhooked it and used my schumacher battery charger. It is also giving me a green light. Turned the bike on again and this time I get 2 red lights plus 1 yellow light which are flashing. So I am not sure why the battery indicator is telling me hardly any charge and the battery tender and charger are both telling me full charge. Any ideas why I am getting completely opposite results? -
So far I've made 125 of these... 1st Generation mostly, but some apply to all models: Replace bolts on muffler clamps & use anti-seize compound before they freeze up Do the starter internal ground, another post. May not need heavier battery cables. Add a ground wire directly from the starter to the negative battery terminal or main ground wire Add gauges if unsure of reliability, most on Ebay are Oil pressure, oil temp, Amp meter, indicator LED lights to remind if accessories are on/off An external oil plug is on the engine right side with large socket allen screw/plug between water pump and clutch covers down low center engine. Shorten the throw on clutch lever by making a shorter push rod Shorten the brake lever throw by removing the return spring (remove 10mm bolt to see) Clean battery and grounds regularly Super glue any plastic cracks, also stops further cracking. Do not over tighten any screws on plastic Install foot guards for rain & cold air (MK1's) Always put bolts/screws back in with grease/oil on threads to prevent corrusion Put a guard around the mirrors in case you drop the bike Replace any frequently removed nut/bolts/screws with all the same kind to reduce tools and time servicing. Use a socket screwdriver rather than a wrench/rachet, it is faster & you don't over tighten. Put a mud guard around the rectifier/regulator, but leave it open to air Eliminate both/either fairing pockets (Std models) this adds 50% more room. Use insulation to fill in holes. Rubber around mirrors to protect them Make sure the air filter is tight (not rattling) in housing The weather stripping on the bottom goes bad with age Further explanations are available via PM's. Happy fixes!!!
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Hi All, Well, winter has a firm lock here in Newfoundland, and my VR will be sleeping for another 2 - 3 months yet, but I've gotta start thinking about the spring, so I have two questions 1. I want to upgrade my battery cables from stock before the next season... anyone know when I can get the heavier cables now? That slow engine crank really makes me nervous sometimes! 2. I replaced my stator last year, and I know I didn't seal that stator wire up as good as it should have been. It was seeping oil all fall. I read somewhere about a sealant - I think from Yamaha - that could be used. I don't want to be dripping oil next summer, those Harley guys think it's funny! Thanks in Advance! -
I completed this modification, last week, so far seems to be working good. Idea: To obtain, Brighter Turn signals Front, and Rear -- I purchaced 4 each, sylvania 2357 LL ( long life ) new bulbs. Mod to Rear Signals. 1. Remove the original 1156, Single fillament Bulb. 2. Modify two of the new 2357LL bulbs by building a " Solder Bridge " across the two contact points on the end of bulb, then grind or file the solder bridge Flat. Then grind off the upper side "prong " of the bulb. ( just the upper one ) (((( See Photo's for Rear Bulb Modifications )))) 3. Now Install the modified 2357LL in place of the original 1156. You now have the 28.5 watts, plus 8.3 watts, total of 36.8 Watts. The original Standared 1156, single fillament bulb, pulls about 27.7 watts. NO, rewireing is required !!! ( a good thing ) About a 33 percent increase in Wattage. ----------------------------- Mod. to Front Signals. In front, the stock bulb is a standard 1157, two fillament bulb. You can just replace with the new 2357LL and this will give you about a 3.5 percent increase. (( Do not modify the Bulb )) (( you will modify the wireing up front, each side )) OK--- here is what I did up front. The Blue Wire, on each front socket, is for the low wattage , front marker light filament. Cut the Blue wire, back about 2 to 3 inches from the socket, and Splice the 2 inch pigtail into the other wire, going into the socket (( Ch, chocolate )) on left side. -------------------------------------------------(( Dg , Dark Green )) on right side. Now your Ch (choolate ) wire on left is feeding Both fillaments of the 2357LL on the left side, and the Dark Green is feeding both fillaments on the right side. Same result as the above mod of the Rear turn signals. Now just install your new 2357LL bulbs each side. Wa La, you now have 30 percent brighter front turn signals. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, you now have NO, forward markers left and right, just a blue wire on each side dangleing in the breeze. Next step, Run down to local auto parts, get a Bulb socket, for a 7 to 8 watt bulb. I think a 1056 is the one, or an LED Equivelant . And new bulbs. Now Drill a hole inside the light assembly, mount the new socket, and hook to the (((blue ))) wire on each side, And the Ground wire. ( splice, and solder, and insulate )) If you use an LED bulb, you will save about 1 Amp of total Current Draw on the system. Also, if you replace the TWO stock REAR Tail/Brake lights, with 1157 LED Replacenemts, you will save another 1 amp of total Current Draw. ( I got these LED replacements at my local auto parts ) Just Replace the stock bulbs ) -------------------------------------------- You have now Decreased the total current draw by 2 Amps, from rear tail, and front markers by replaceing with LED's. You now have 30 percent Brighter Turn Signals. ( don't worry about the added current draw of signals, cause they are seldom ON. ) And you now have LED Brake lights. I know !! this is confuseing--- such is life --- Does it work? yes, for a week so far -- everything seems OK.
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I am putting passing lamps on my RSTD. I put a relay under my seat following a post of Venture instructions. The instructions say that I should hook my relay switch wire to the blue with yellow stripe. In my headlight bucket on the large connector block there is a blue 14ga wire with yellow stripes going perpendicular to the wire. On the small connector block there is a blue 18ga wire with the yellow stripe running the length of the wire. Do you know which wire that I should use on a 2008 RSTD? Thanks
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Paints on. Lights in. Waiting on 'Chrome' wheels to get here. Still have to wire it and rub out a couple little runs in clear. C'mon spring!
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Hey all: don't post much but am on here daily but I need some advice on how to remove the honeycomb wire mesh that is in one of my 07 RK exhaust pipes. I put them on my 07 RSV three months ago and are much louder than stock. It is in the left one only and yes I have drilled both pipes out in front and back and they sound great but it seems the left pipe isn't as loud. I also wonder if its worth my time to even take it out as I don't know if it will make it any louder. any thoughts or advise appreciated. Happy holidays to ALL!!! Brian D. -
I have A 2007 Blue/Black RSV. Lately, I've been having some engine noise static in my headset.Not bad,just annoying.Doesn't do it all the time,intermittent,comes and goes. I have a tach and was thinking that maybe the tach wire is too close to the headset wire at the neck where they come close together.I was going to wrap the coil wire to the tach in aluminum foil and then wrap with electrical tape and reposition the wires to see if that helps.Any one else had this problem?Is there any thing else I should be looking for?Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.Tach has been on about 8 months and have had a problem for about the last 2 months on and off.I don't know if that is it,but I can't think of what else it could be.Thanks.
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hey guys Im a newb to this site so be easy i just picked up an 1983 yamaha venture xvz12 and It needs some work but to start with I need a wire diagram for the f*&%ing thing I've been looking for two days and havint found crap any healp would be great:thumbsup:
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OK I bypassed the sensor with the 2.2 ohm resistor. Instead of hooking to the acc. wire, I hooked a conector to the wire and mounted it under the screw that went to the fuse that I was supposed to solder to. Is this OK? Kevin -
I bought 2 helmets at a garage sale last weekend. Don't remember what kind of headsets they are, but does anyone have a diagram that I can get and wire these up so I can talk to the wife while riding without screaming? Kevin
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Battery Indicator
okiefirefighter posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I replaced the battery and the new one has a threaded filler cap and is to large for the wire that tells you when the water is low. What can I do? Thanks, Kevin -
Anyone know what Gauge wire is used on the driving lights?
