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Showing results for tags 'wheel'.
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HOW TO IDENTIFY WHERE A DRIVER IS FROM One hand on wheel, one hand on horn: Chicago One hand on wheel, one finger out window: New York One hand on wheel, one hand on newspaper, foot solidly on accelerator: Boston One hand on wheel, cradling cell phone, brick on accelerator: California. With gun in lap: L.A. Both hands on wheel, eyes shut, both feet on brake, quivering in terror: Ohio, but driving in California. Both hands in air, gesturing, both feet on accelerator, head turned to talk to someone in back seat: Italy One hand on latte, one knee on wheel, cradling cell phone, foot on brake, mind on game: Seattle One hand on wheel, one hand on hunting rifle, alternating between both feet being on the accelerator and both on the brake, throwing a McDonalds bag out the window: Texas Four wheel drive pickup truck, shotgun mounted in rear window, beer cans on floor, squirrel tails attached to antenna: West Virginia Two hands gripping wheel, blue hair barely visible above window level, driving 35 on the interstate in the left lane with the left blinker on: Florida
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My front wheel bearings disintegrated and wormed out my front wheel. I bought new bearings but when I removed the old bearings the wheel and sleeve were worn and wormed out. So I guess I will have to replace the wheel. Anyone have any ideas besides the dealer. I do not know what they cost but I do know there are cheper places than the dealer. Thanks Quicksilver Thanks guys for all the info and quick to. this is the best source of info on the net. Thank all of you again Quicksilver
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I'm looking to buy a trailer. I'm particularly interested in a single wheeled type. Anybody out there pull a single wheel like an N Line, or Uni-Go, or anything like that? Looking for pro and con feedback. Thanks so much, Lynn
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While one of the advantages to running a car tire on your bike is longevity, don't forget maintenance. The other day I left dinner with a group of friends, just like I have done many times in the past. Pulled out into traffic shifted to second gear and heard the sound that sounded like ball bearings in a blender. I coasted over into the left turn lane and came to a stop. One of my buddies pulled up along side of me and asked what was wrong. I looked at him and said, I'm in second gear, both feet are on the ground, my hands are in the air, the engine is running, and I'm not moving!!! Your guess is as good as mine. So we pushed the bike off the road and into the parking lot and shut it down. Luckily for me I was close to help. My buddy went home and grabbed his trailer, (about 3 miles away) and we took the bike to his house. Now comes the problem. We removed the rear wheel, and found the splines on the clutch hub, (the gear on the wheel that connects to the rear differential) was stripped clean. This is why regular maintenance is essential. After further thought, my rear wheel had not been removed from the bike for 30k miles. When I was running a M/C tire and changing it every 8k to 10k miles, that hub was getting cleaned and greased regularly. Fortunately there was no wear or damage to the differential and $104 later for a new hub and dust seal, I was back on the road. Just thought I would share this little bit of info. If it saves just one person from braking down on the road, my job is done.
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Has anyone here removed the rubber dampeners from their rear RSV wheel? Im not talking about the fingers but the actual rubber bushings that sit in the wheel. Just got my chrome wheels back and the rubber was destroyed. Any ideas??
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Ive looked all over the site and I cant find information on adjusting the swingarm bearings on the RSV 2gen and I have misplaced my shop manual CD. Does anyone know the procedure? I'm assuming I will have to remove the headers to get to the nuts with the proper tool. I have popped the covers and I really dont know what I should turn first. I already have the mufflers, the saddlebags, and the rear wheel off the bike for a tire replacement. There is a noticeable amount of sideplay in the swingarm...im guessing its about 1/8 inch movement at the ends of the swingarm. Thanks in advance.
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Which way does this spacer go on the rear wheel? This spacer goes against the rear wheel bearing and is the seal surface the seal rides against. There is a raised shoulder on one side while the other is flat. Pictures of both are attached. I am assuming the raised part goes against the bearing since it is the same diameter are the inner race. And yes, those are the balls from the rear wheel bearing. Not good. RR
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Well, I was doing some regular maintenance on QuickSilver the other day, just getting ready for the Ohio Carnival next week, and while I had the rear wheel off to change the tire I figured it was about time to finally check the drive shaft for lube. I know some folks here think this needs to be done every two weeks or so , but not me! I haven't pulled the drive shaft even once in 80,000 miles, and from what I saw, there really wasn't much need to do it now. There was not a ton of grease in there, but enough. It was clear that Yamaha used a moly grease when they put it together, and there were no visible signs of abnormal wear. So I just added a touch more 5% moly and put it all back together for another 80,000 miles. It really wasn't too hard to get the drive shaft back in the U-joint with the help of another member who just happened to be around while I was working (THANX Formerfuzz!). The trick was to simply put the transmission in gear and have someone else turn the final drive gears while I held the drive unit and tried to generally center the shaft on the U-joint. Here's a tip for when you get ready to do this - first, pull the drive hub/fingers from the rear wheel (which you should be doing to lube the drive fingers anyway), and use that hub for your helper to turn the gears/drive shaft while you hold the drive unit and try to insert the drive shaft into the u-joint. After you get the drive housing back in place, you can finish greasing the drive fingers and putting the hub back in the wheel. Since I hadn't done this before and I had already greased up the drive hub, I just wrapped a rag around a 2x4 and jammed it into the drive splines to turn the gears. Goose -
Does anyone have a nice step by step or a series of photos for the removal of the rear wheel? I am looking at new tires and am Unwilling to let the bike butchers at the dealer touch the bike or charge me an extra $350.00 to remove the wheels from the bike.
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I ordered new tires yesterday and I should have them tomorrow. It's been a long slow process but I've just about got the old girl ready to go. I drained the final drive last night. From the looks of the oil, I don't think it's ever been changed. Is there anything special I need to do with the final drive while I have the rear wheel off? It seems like I remember reading something about greasing it or something. There is a grease fitting but I'm not sure if this is the only place that needs to be greased.
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Please soneone, what are the bearing numbers for the front wheel, '07 RSV. Not Yamaha #, SKF or any other good bearing as in C3. Is 6004.2rs.C3 the right one? tew47:fingers-crossed-emo
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to have the dealer change out the rubber on the front, (removed from bike) do I have to also remove the discs from the wheel? I'm thinking not...but I want to be sure.
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I put a new rear tire on last week and found that the inside of the rim was coated with some sort of black stuff that had left corosion on the inside the rim so I cleaned the rim off with a brass brush and soap and water and there were some pretty good pits. Everything seemed ok after the tire was mounted but after the first ride it is leaking about 30 pounds a day. I am thinking maybe if I break the bead and reset it that may take care of the issue, I had thought about ride on but I was told it was no good for sealing around the rim. If this does not work does anyone have a spare rear wheel for a 2nd gen they would part with cheap?
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On his brand new Ninja 650R. He took the msf course and bought that bike, and I thought; hmmmm. He had 574 miles exactly of experience. We were 3 in a line, and he was leading and I was last. Following a car too close going about 25, the driver slammed her brakes (because she was also following too close), he panicked and locked up the fr wheel, and zip- he was over the top in an instant. He got lucky- scraped the heck out of some skin, and bike is probably totaled, but no major injury. Hopefully the next bike won't be a ZX-14!
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Well yesterday the wife and I were headed out on a ride and a few miles into it the rain came down. With the wet roads the bike seemed to handle very funny so we stopped and I looked the bike over. Nothing obvious to be found. We take off and the bike felt like the back tire was going flat so we decided to go home and check the thing out. Well after putting it up on the lift and taking the bags off i found the problem. The wheel bearing was worn completely out. I could move the wheel up and down. This is now 1:30 pm on Saturday so by the time I figure out what all I am going to need to repair the thing it is gonna be to late to order parts and I don't want to be down a week. So I decide to text Mike (EUSA1) and see if he has an extra wheel. He calls me and and wants to know what's up. He then says I will come down when I get off work (he Lives 100 miles away) and bring, parts and a wheel just in case. Well he gets here and we get the wheel off and because the bearing has been going out for awhile it has destroyed the tire. Plenty of tread but flat spots on the side, middle and just real ugly..Mike says it would be easier if you had a new tire on his rim and then we could just put then different rim on since I needed a new tire anyway. So by now it is 6:00pm. I call a friend of mine who owns a Trike Shop where he converts 2 wheelers into 3 wheelers. He doesn't have a tire since he works on 3 wheelers but says if I can find a tire he will come down and open his shop so we can mount it. So I call another member Tim (mystor09) who lives about 8 miles away and he has a new tire and says come and get it and just order him another one and we are even. So from the time I find out the problem until it it is fixed takes about 6 hours with time off for some food, mike driving 100 miles and then us driving another 75 or so to get the tire and go to my buddies shop to mount it. I say I am lucky to have friends from this site who stepped up for me and got me rolling in such record time Thanks to everyone.
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I recently put on Roto Covers. Its a long story but here is my issue. With both brake calipars off and the Roto Covers installed and the Axle bolt tighten to 75 Ft Lbs, the front wheel spins freely. The wheel goes around several times with a decent spin of the wheel. On by adding just the left calipars on, the wheel might spin maybe 1/2 turn. With both calipars on the wheel spon about 1/3 of a turn. I thought I would go for a ride and do the same spin test. It now spins about 3/4 of a turn. How freely does your front wheel spin? Any suggestion as to how I might make mine spin more freely.
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Replacing Front Wheel Bearings
ragtop69gs posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Putting a new 150/80-16 Venom on the front and I feel a tight spot on both wheel bearings. I am going to replace them. I have 2 questions. A search here did not help me much. (1) How do you get the bearings out ? With the inner spacer I see no way to use a standard bearing puller or a drift punch to knock em out, no lip to drive them out. (2) Sourcing the bearing and seal? Yamaha part or from a bearing supply ? Aftermarket part numbers? -
Cruising down the beachfront Sunday at about 25mph. Let go of the left grip to button my jacket when we hit a very slight bump. The front wheel started slapping left&right. Got very severe as I got both hands on it and tried to steady it. It damned near tore my elbows outta their sockets before I could brake it to a near stop and regain control. It has done this very slightly several times before since I had the Hannigan w/rake kit put on. Front tire is fine, so is pressure. Never have this issue at speed and only a hint at a wobble when I have both hands firmly affixed. Other than keeping both hands on the grips at all times, any other suggestions?
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Does anybody know which type of grease that Yammie uses in their left rear wheel bearing? It's reasonably clear on a new bearing, so I'd suspect that it's lithium complex grease but..... Frank -
Florida Woman, 90, Behind the Same Wheel 559,000 Miles Later
juggler posted a topic in Watering Hole
They don't make them like this any more. The car or the 90 year old owner. http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,533803,00.html -
I removed the front wheel and brake rotors to send it out for a tire replacement. I didnt keep track of which side the chrome rotor covers came off of. I now discovered that one is weighted and the other isn't. Which side does the weighted one go on? I looked on South Seatle Yamahas part site and it appears to me it is the right hand side. Is this rught? What is the weight for anyways? As usual any and all help is greatly appreciated. Jim -
Finally got the rear tire mounted and wheel back on, but to what I think is to much gear noise. Not enough grease or did I put something back wrong? Little help please?
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I need to replace the rear brake pads so thought I may as well pull the wheel and grease the bearings and splines as well. Can't get a socket on the muffler clamp. Tried an 11mm, 12mm and 13mm but none will go on properly. Does it need a thin socket? I have a regular Craftsman set.
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Thanx to the help of several venturerider members and the delphi motorcycle trailer forum, I am in the final stages of my single wheel trailer build. The trailer consists of a plastic Delta Truck Toolbox bolted onto a Milwaukee hand truck with 250# rated torsion axle and 8" wheel. It weighs approximately 90# (empty) and is 100 inches in total length (hitch to end of fender). I expect when fully loaded with my expected cargo, it will weigh somewhere in the neighborhood of 160-180#. The total trailer height is approx. 34 inches and the width is 20 inches, so it tucks neatly behind the bike. I have given it several test rides and it pulls effortlessly and tracks as advertised with the bike. Recently I read the following post on delphi forum: "With all the folks that seem to be building or thinking about building 1 wheel trailers, something came to mind that I thought I would mention for those to give some thought to. If you are going to tow a 1 wheel please make sure your hitch is up to the task. A 1 wheel will inpart forces on the hitch that a 2 wheel does not. Please make sure your hitch choice can handle the twist forces that a 1 wheel applys to the hitch. Most hitches I have seen are made to pull a 2 wheel and may not work safely with a 1 wheel the way they come. Now some may be fine and others may need to be modified a bit to make them safe." I have a Venturedad hitch on my 2000 RSV and after each test ride it appeared to remain straight and secure upon visual inspection. My question to those who have experience pulling single wheels or those with other inside info., is this hitch up to task of pulling a single wheel trailer or what modification may be needed to make it so. My limited knowledge says I am OK, however, I would like the opinions of others with more experience and knowledge on the subject. Thanx, Jerry
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This may have been posted before, but if anything is worth reposting this has to be it. Click on the small arrows above and below the wheel on the left or right of the menu to scroll through the file. http://www.cheeseandburger.com/
