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Showing results for tags 'tank'.
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Hi all. Is there a way to drain the carbs without removing the tank?
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While at a Dealer a couple of w/e's ago, I saw a G/W with an aux fuel tank on his reciever hitch. It was a home-made job welded aluminum box that holds 2 or 3 gallons. He said when he gets down to 1/4 tank, he flips a switch and an electric fuel pump moves the fuel from the aux tank to his main tank. He said it takes about 15 minutes and it does this while going down the road. Well this got me thinking about my bike and my limited range due to fuel mileage. Our bikes are so darned comfortable, our bodies are seldom ready to stop as often as our fuel tanks are. When we take long trips, we usually take our trailer. So, hanging an aux tank off the reciever hitch isn't an option. But, putting an aux tank in front of the trailer, like some do a cooler would work. I could then run a fuel line up the tounge to the bike. The only thing I can figure out is the connection between the trailer and the bike. Would a simple rubber gas line hold up to all of the movement? Or would I need something 'fancier' or more commercially made? Any ideas would be appreciated. craigr
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So I got my new fuel sending unit and went to install it and found that when I was trying to take my tank off, like I have done many times already, a head of one of the hex head bolt/screw that goes in the front of the tank has been rounded out. I don't know how it happend, when I put it back together last time I didn't notice any slop or anything but when I went to loosen it up, I just spun round and round. I have tried: 1) vice grips and pliers - nothing will grab onto that round head. 2) Easy-out/screw extractors (a few different types including the kind you drill into the screw and then back out and the kind that is supposed to grab onto the head and back it out) none worked - the head of the screw just didn't grab like it should. 3) take grinder and cut slots into the head suitable for a flat head screwdriver - did not work; as I try to use the screw driver to back the bolt out it just breaks the head up even more. I had thought about cutting the head of the bolt off completely and then try to maneuver the tank support out and over it (then I could get the bolt out because I would be able to grip it), but I don't think there is enough play in the tank to do that (as it would have to go ~1 inch to one side and it is just too tight of a fit). I am just plumb out of ideas - any thoughts would be appreciated.
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I thought I'd post a few comments for those who have not been through this before. It is not hard as long as you have the proper tools. T-handle allen wrenches are almost mandatory for me - they make turning out the many socket head screws fast and easy. In addition, if you follow the manual (Method #1 below), you really want a set of long ball-end 3/8" drive allen wrenches for use with your ratchet. If you follow the shop manual, the job is pretty straight forward, but you will have one frustrating surprise. I have detailed the full drain procedure first as Method #1, then two slightly modified procedures that some might prefer at the expense of not getting out quite as much of the old coolant. The first steps apply to all three methods: You start by removing the seat, tank, both lower fairings and all three battery covers. Don't forget to remove that top center #3 Philips screw on the middle cover; it is kind of hidden! The cover slips out to the left fairly easily, but you do need to watch down in the middle for hoses and wire bundles that will hang up on the corners. Now you are ready to begin draining the fluid. METHOD #1 - The Complete Drain: The radiator drain bolt is obvious on the bottom left, and getting the overflow tank out is pretty easy too. It is only held on by one bolt and a couple of lugs in rubber grommets. Just use your fingers to push that plastic shield above it up so you can pull the filler neck forward and out to the right side. Some folks prefer to siphon out the overflow tank instead of removing it, but I don't know why; taking it out is MUCH easier than messing with a siphon hose! (But you don't have to remove the center or left side battery covers if you are not going to remove the tank.) Note: If you remove the radiator cap before you take out the radiator drain bolt, the coolant will drain VERY fast with quite a bit of splashing; you may want to let it drain mostly on it's own before you take that cap off! Next you will want to pull the fake cylinder fins off and take out the rubber plugs; use an old spark plug to screw into the plug and pull it out. Each cylinder water jacket holds quite a bit of coolant - seemed like about 1/2 cup each but could have been less - and those fin covers pop off very quickly with a 5mm T-handle. Make sure you leave the right front cover off until you finish with the next step! The frustrating surprise will come when you try to drain the water pump. The drain plug is a 17mm plug angled forward in the bottom of the chrome water pump cover, right next to the bend in the header pipe. The service manual says absolutely nothing about this other than to just take out the plug. Good LUCK! Absolutely no way to get on it with normal tools unless you loosen the header pipe. The good news is that you don't have to actually remove the pipe, just loosen the clamp at the front of the Y joint and remove the two socket head nuts on the header clamp (this is where you will really appreciate the long ball-end allen wrenches for your ratchet!). Once the header pipe is loose enough to pull a bit to the outside near the floor board, it is easy to remove the drain plug with a normal 17mm socket and a wobble extension or u-joint. Now you are ready to put all the drain plugs back in and replace the fin covers (make sure to get that header pipe back in place before you put the right front cover on!). DO NOT over tighten the radiator drain plug - that is all plastic, and the torque spec is ONLY 22 inch pounds. Even with the proper torque wrench, that is so light you can't hardly tell it has clicked, so you could still easily over-tighten and damage it. To me, the right tightness seems to be about what you can do just with your hand on a long 3/8" extension WITHOUT the ratchet. That's it. Only thing left is to mix up 3.5 liters of 50/50 coolant and fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line, then carefully fill the radiator to the top of the neck. Put the radiator cap back on and run the engine for a minute or so (plenty of fuel in the carbs to do this without the tank) to let the coolant settle, then top off the coolant at the radiator cap. Now put it all back together and take your bike out for a short ride to get the motor fully up to temperature and check for leaks. Then after it completely cools off, check the overflow tank and top up to the Full mark if necessary (if there were any air-pockets left when you filled the coolant, some of the fluid from the overflow tank will be sucked in as the engine cools). METHOD #2 - Skipping the Water Pump Drain (almost as good as #1): Several folks have said they prefer to just drain the radiator and try to flush the rest of the coolant out with distilled water (see posts below), so I include these corner-cutting options as Methods 2 & 3. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator. Now pull each of the fake fin covers and pop out that little rubber plug. You will notice that coolant that drains from each water jacket still seems bright green, showing the "flush" was incomplete (that's why you are still doing these plugs). With the radiator plug back in and the fin covers back on, it is time to refill with coolant. But this time you have left some distilled water or highly diluted coolant in the engine, so it is best to not use pre-mixed coolant. Add about 1.75 liters of straight coolant, some to the overflow tank (1/2 full) and the rest to the radiator. Now top up both with distilled water and run the engine for a minute to work out any air pockets, then re-top the radiator with distilled water. METHOD #3 - Short and Sweet and Hope For The Best: In this method you skip draining both the water pump AND the cylinder water jackets. You will be leaving some of the old coolant in there to mix with the new, but some folks find this OK. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator and flush it again just like above. After two flushes you probably noticed a much lighter green color to the water on the last drain, so it is time to add new coolant and button it all back up. But remember, not only are you leaving some water/coolant in the water pump, you are also leaving it in the water jackets too, so you need to use a lower amount of new coolant in the fill. My guess of the right mix would be to add only 1.25 liters of coolant and then top it all off with distilled water. That's it folks, all done for another couple of years! My personal choice is Method #1. Even with the need to loosen the header pipe, it really isn't that difficult, and it doesn't take any more time than adding the engine flushes on the other methods. But whichever method you use, it is certainly better than not changing it at all. So now that the maintenance is done, let's rack up some miles! Enjoy the ride! Goose
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I have a 2006 RSTD. The front right screw that holds on the tank cover "chrome" is not coming out. It turns, but is not coming out. I can feel behind it, and something rubbery feeling is turning with the screw. What is this? Any idea on how to get the screw out? It was at the dealer, who performed the 26.6K valve clearance service, and they took off the tank. I was going to call Tuesday (closed tomorrow), because they left off the black plastic screw caps from the gas tank bolts. Now I see that they lost three of the little plastic washers from the ignition cover. And this screw looks to be overtightened or something. What is it with dealer service? *sigh* Dave -
Calm down guys it's not what you think. I got my tank bra from Troy Savoie and I deleted the email with the directions. It looks pretty simple but mainly wondered if you use any type of adheasive. Looks like you take the existing trim on the bottom of the tank and replace it with the new trim.
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new 09 RSV-S with about 1000 miles on it. I will write up my first impressions in a later post but first I have this question. My gas cap and gas tank get to the point of being so hot it would almost burn my hand. is this the way they are?? does not seem right! I am not talking about it setting in the sun, I am talking about when driving it either back roads (not stop and go but hills and twisties) or in town stop and go. air temp above 90 degrees F. Thanks Jerry -
can some one direct me to the guy who was making the replacment pipe assy. for 1st gen. collector tank ?
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I bought a chrome tank cover and liked the look, but since have bought a Clearview shield and with the more swept back angle of the Clearview the chrome reflects right in the viewing path, so I have put the black one back on.. Anyone looking to get a chrome one, I'll let this one go cheap, it is just sitting on the shelf in my garage.
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i was reading in general tech talk about some members wanting to remove their tank badges. i like mine, but the right one is scratched up from a previous owner uh-oh. If anyone wants to sell their tank badges, please let me know via PM or this thread. thanks, dale in La
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MY '87 VENTURE HAS A HEAL/TOE SHIFTER ON IT AND A CUSTOM SEAT AND I FIND WY LEGS ARE BENT BACK UNDER ME WHEN I SHIFT OR USE BREAK PEADLE. THE SEAT MAKES ME SIT ALMOST ON THE GAS TANK AND PUTS THOSE CONTROLS UNDER ME. I HAVE A 30" INSEAM BUT I AM 6' TALL. Any IDEAS??? THANKS!
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About a month ago I filled the tank (maybe a little too full) and ever since then the gauge flashes on and off every time the tank is full. After riding a few miles it straightens out and works fine until the next fill. Anyone seen this happen.... maybe time to go see the dealer
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Fuse Block Clearance?
Yamaha4ever posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hey guys. I am in the process of making a new fuse block from the glass fuse holders found at your local Radio Shack, but I think I might have a clearance issue. The original fuse block is short so it fits comfortably under the "Gas Tank" cover. I bought a small water proof case to mount the fuses in but I don't know if the case will clear under there, because I don't have the "Gas Tank" Cover to snap over it. (It's in storage) Can someone please tell me approximately how many inches I have to work with under there and how tall the fuse block case can be once bolted down. I'm gonna use the old bolt holes. Thank you so much for your help on this! Chris -
Ok... so I've had this problem a few times since getting the bike: I'll be riding and everything seems fine, and the engine simply stops running. Acts like it's out of gas. it's happened 3 or 4 times- and it seems like turning the fuel petcock back and forth is solving the issue: Here's the question- I think it may be simply me not understanding how the reserve/main tank work together. 1. Does the fuel guage show the total gas or just the main tank? THe other day it cut off with a bar left on the guage. Switched it to reserve and back again a couple times... and it seemed to work again. 2- if someone could explain the relationship between the 2 fuel tanks, the petcock and the gas gauge, I think I would be able to troubleshoot better. rs (I know I'm probably spelling petcock wrong... I mean the tank chooser switchy thing- That' a technical description...)
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What is the possibility of using a 2nd fuel petcock on a 2nd Gen to get full utilization of that big old gas tank? Boomer.....who's thinking out loud here.
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I took the fairing off of the ninja 250 that my son rides to fix a major crack in the fairing with plastexs. That repair worked great. Unfortunately, when I reinstalled the fairing, I missed one of the washers where the fairing attaches to the gas tank and screwed the bolt in too far and punctured the gas tank. So my question is "How do I patch a gas tank?" Iowa Guy
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Ok.....I'm down to the tricky part. After dealing with the rust in my tank I'm down to applying the epoxy resin tomorrow. The tank looks a lot better than it did and the epoxy should solve any future rust issues. My question is, are there any interior baffles in the neck of the tank? I noticed while I was shaking the tank with a handful of grabber screws and a tube of BB's that very few made it into the filler neck. Using an inspection mirror I could not see anything in the upper neck but couldn't get that good of a look up inside. The only "baffle" I can see is the neck of the filler tube going down into the neck a few inches. Anything other than that? Just trying to figure the surface area so I mix enough epoxy to cover EVERYTHING! Thanks -
On my 06 RSTD, I've noticed I get alot of air coming up around the fuel tank at 70 mph. If I hold my hands beside the tank directly in front of my knees its gone or deflected away, eliminating air hitting my arms and chest. I'd like to have someone make something that would mount to the side of the tank w/adhesives (like the emblem) bout 2-3" wide and bout 1-2" tall kinda like a wing that would mold from my knees around to the front of the tank. I've thought about looking into having someone machine something out of aluminum but I'm scared of how much it would cost in excess of $500. Bike is stock, with 16" clearview with the wider lowers. Any thoughts on if that idea is possible or alternative ideas ....tks PS I've thought bout sending my tank emblems to someone like OCC and have them machine something with the same diameters but extended it out 2-3". '
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help me troubleshoot my '87
nateo posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Long story short, the engine idles a little rough, has poor power and won't run without the choke on. It'll idle with the choke off, but it dies when you try to take off. Had the bike sitting in storage for about 2 years. Gas was untreated. It didn't run at all when I started working on it. Here's what I've done: I thought it was bad gas, so i drained the tank and fuel lines/pump/filter. Put it back together with fresh gas. Sprayed a ton of Thrust and Deep Creep into the carb and it runs now. Put Seafoam into the carb, and into the fuel tank, which helped the idle a very small amount, but didn't make a big difference. I did notice that one carb moves more than the other ones. Any advice on what I should do next? I'm not 100% sure if the carbs were varnished, and if they were varnished, if they're cleaned out now. Is there a way to check if the carb is clean enough? Should I sync the carbs if they may be partially varnished, or is that a waste of time? -
Hello everyone, I'm looking to install a tank Tux bib or Tie. Does anyone know where I can get a nice one? Does it rub the paint finish on the tank? Also, is it difficult to install? Thanks for you help. I'm riding with the 1700 bikes this week for the moving veterans wall in Beaver Pa and I would like to have it by then!
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OK took a ride this weekend to help my cuzin get his bike back together and hang out. On my way there the first tank of gas I ran out at 65-70 mph and got 43 mpg. The second tank was ran out at 75-80 mph and I got 33 mpg. On the way home today I ran 70 mph all the way home and got 40 mpg. Is it normal for a first gen to get such varying mpg and espcially such a drastic change when over 75 mph. it all seems to be pulling fine with plenty of power all the way through the gears. Just been wandering as I have niticed varying changes in fuel economy but this is the first time I ve been able to get a hold on the mph to mpg issue. Tahnks for all and any answers. David
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Ok....I've decided my gas tank is going to have to be dealt with. The bike had been stored for nine years before I bought it. The PO had run it once in a while and it had been in a heated garage all that time and the tank had been kept full (according to PO). The tank was checked as one of the first things during my inspection. Very little rust to be seen when I bought it. During the two winters I have owned it the bike has been kept in an unheated garage and the fuel treated with Sea Foam and Stabil during storage. Run it a bit every week and top off the gas with fresh. During the summer months I keep it topped off every few days unless I'm on the road then I'll let down to the last bar. But as luck may have it the rust is getting worse and getting to be a problem. It's clogging my fitler (3rd one) and getting into the carbs now. So here is my game plan after a lot of research on products. I'll say this is what I'm using and continue on unless you can convince me I'm going about it the wrong way. I'm pulling the tank and starting out with a alcohol and steel brad and BB cocktail to scuff up the interior and break up the rust. It's not heavy rust by any means but it's there. It surprised me from the looks of the tanks interior that I'm even having a problem this severe. Following that will be a soak with BEHR # 911 Concrete Etcher, a phospheric acid to break down the rest of the rust. The final step will be a treatment with Phenol Novolac Sealer from Caswells. Seems like a decent product for the coating. The tank is solid and no leaks or weak spots. Once I got the tank flushed out and found an inspection mirror that would fit inside I found most the rust problem in the lower end. So any advice or comments on the products I'm looking to use? Thanks Mike
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Just bought a new never ridden 2008 Venture... 6 gal tank as should be... The reserve light and trip gage comes on at about 172 miles then I ride about another 59 miles.. Had It checked and they said it was the tub in the tank ..Is there any way it can be adjusted or am I there for the life of the bike??? Ron:Cool_cool36:
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I have the passenger headset cord that runs to the back of the bike, I need a driver's headset cord that comes from the radio and lays next to the tank cover. Anyone got one they are willing to sell? -
Having some issues with my gas gauge on the '06. It all seems to have started after my last trip when I had the magnetic tank bag attached but that just might be a coincidence. Never had an issue with the tank bag on the '03. The gauge won't show full anymore, always one bar down and after about 50 miles or so it reads all over the map. Some times no bars will show at all and some times it will read anywhere from nothing to 3/4. The low fuel light and count down meter seem to be still working but I don't trust it. Had to start using the reserve valve again just in case. I don't remember reading about anyone having issues with the gas gauge before. My have to go for my first warranty job on this bike.
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