Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'starter'.
-
So the other day, my headlight refuses to come on after the bike starts. It has happened before, but it has always resolved itself. This time...nothing. Good thing I have fog lights. So I start taking things apart. I thought it might be the HID light I just installed but a standard H4 refused to light as well. Long story shorter; it was the starter switch. It was refusing to return all the way after use. There is a tiny gap between the spot where the light turns off and the starter lights. It was stuck in that spot. It would start but wouldn't light the lights. A little lube and all is well. -
Well, I finally got my starter out....haven't had a chance to work on it for a few days. I even got 2 broken bolts and stripped thermostat bolts out! When I opened the starter I was expecting a LOT of dust etc...but there wasn't hardly any. Which makes me wonder if the PO had done anywork on it. Question....the brushes are about 7/16 (or 1 cm") in length. They look like they fill the length of the holders pretty well so I'm thinking they are nearly new. But you tell me.....Do these have lots of life left or should they be replaced? I'm thinking it is such a PITA to get to, I might just as well do it while I'm here. I'm planning on putting in Dingy's ground mod...anything else I should do while I'm there? polish anything or ????? I'm in uncharted territory as far as anything I've done before!
-
I've charged the battery (1year old gel battery) I cleaned and tightened the connection on the front of the starter I've cleaned and tightened both battery terminals I inspected and checked tightness on Ground at front left of motor STILL turns over so slow (even when cold) it won't start so now what?????????????????????????????????? I've got heavier battery cables on order but they could be 2 weeks away!
-
Tried to start my 86 VR after it had been sitting about a month. Had a little trouble getting it to fire right away, and ended up running down the battery (it might have been low to start with). Grabbed the jumper cables and hooked them up to the car. Got plenty of cranking power, but the bike still wouldn't fire up (might have flooded it by now). Then I just lost the starter completely. When I press the start button nothing happens except I hear a relay click, to cancel out the headlight I think. I have it in neutral, so I don't think it's related to the sidestand switch or the clutch lever switch. I tried rocking the bike a little in 3rd gear in case the brushes in the starter motor are a little worn and might move them a little. Still nothing. Any suggestions what might be wrong or what else I should be looking for? Thanks.
-
Been having that box of rocks sound on start upand have been ignoring it as much as was possible. It's been getting worse and worse now starter spins and no motor turn over. Put bike on the right side lean stand took off the stator cover and verified that when start button pushed all gears including large gear behind flywheel spin but does not engage flywheel or turn over crank shaft. Pretty much sounds like the starter clutch.......... Don't ya think? Is the Dano mod still available and is that the current way to go on the starter clutch issue. Feed back appreciated. -
While fiddling with my carbs - and with a battery that is getting low, it feels as if my starter motor clutch is giving up. It could be that as the battery is low and the starter motor has always struggled, it's just not gripping tightly enough , so changing the battery and servicing the starter motor just MIGHT sort things out, otherwise I might have to invest in the starter clutch modification. While searching for bits, though I came across this chap on the US ebay site: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Starter-KIT-Yamaha-M-C-XVZ1200-Venture-XVZ-1200-1198cc-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414ce55e63QQitemZ280462974563QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories He is selling the bits to refurbish the starter motor, but also sells aftermarket starters. He says that all models are available, so I have asked if he can match the later Royal Star starter which I'm told will fit (awaiting an answer) and wondered if anybody had experience of these. -
Had a wire come off the stable horn. Touched the pipe and caused a short. It melted some plastic off the wiring in the fairing. I've gone through and re-taped, replaced, and recovered the wiring. Everything comes on when you turn on the ignition. But when you press the starter button the Starter Relay Assembly buzzes and thats all. What have I messed up or did the short cause the relay to go bad? I checked all the fuses behind the right side lower cover. Checked the ones under the left side cover below the seat. Checked both fuses that are on the Starter relay assembly. What am I missing? Part number 37 is what is buzzing. http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/YAM/2/02/0025/0053.Gif
-
hello can someone tell wher starter for 86 vr 1300 is located thanx
-
any one here a Tractor guru?? I am looking for a starter for my `54 VAC, I found new /re-built starters at one place on line, but they want about what I payed for the tractor....
-
Came home the other day and cut off bike. Wen to try and tart back up and nothing. All lights, radio and everything went out. Pushed it in. Cut switch back on and finally heard a constant ticking from the Starter relay beside the fuel filter. Replaced it with used one and now the starter solenoid is clicking constantly when I hit the start switch-no starter. Crossed the pos/neg on the solenoid and it sounds like bendix is coming out but no engagement. Has the starter gone out or is it something else? -
I have an 88 venture. The headlight is not working. From what I can tell the headlight power wire comes from the fuse to the starter switch on the right handle grip. From there it goes to the headlight. I am getting power from the fuse to the switch but nothing out. Is the starter switch a momentary switch that shuts the power off to the headlight when starting? Is there a way that I can clean the switch or something I can do with it. I took it apart and it looked alright to me. If not would it hurt anything to simply by pass the switch. I hate to get into doing thing like that but I have spent way to much on this bike and i am not spending anymore. I will sell it first. Thanks for any help Curtis
-
looking for starter for 89 vr any good places's to find one
-
Ok, I have a problem. I go out today to go for a ride. Turn the ignition on, press the starter button, and nothing happens. The starter won't even click. When I rode last week, it was fine. I ended up working 70 hours this week and today was the first time i've been able to take it out. So, can someone tell me how to determine what the problem is. If it's the starter button itself or something between there and the starter. I thought the battery so I charged it up and still nothing. Thanks guys for the help.
-
Attached are some pictures of the modification I made to the starter on my 83 1st gen. The purpose of this is to give a better path to ground for the brush plate. Stock version allows a path to ground through the tabs around the plate. Snaggletooth had posted about this mod several weeks ago, but I do not know of any pictures that are available to show it. Gary This shows the location of the drilled & tapped hole. I used a 4mm screw to attach wire with. Hole is at 2 o'clock position. This shows location of hole from outside of cover. The hole in the brush plate is shown at the 7 o'clock position. Picture of grounding wires. I used two 14 gauge wires. The terminals for 12 gauge and up had too large of a mounting lug for mounting screw size I wanted to use. Wires attached to end cover. Wires attached to brush plate. View of starter mounted on engine. I have since added an 8 gauge wire that runs from the bottom mounting bolt for the starter to the right side of the engine block. I attached wire to the block at the same point the main ground wire from the battery attaches.
-
Attached are some pictures of the modification I made to the starter on my 83 1st gen. The purpose of this is to give a better path to ground for the brush plate. Stock version allows a path to ground through the tabs around the plate. Snaggletooth had posted about this mod several weeks ago, but I do not know of any pictures that are available to show it. Gary This shows the location of the drilled & tapped hole. I used a 4mm screw to attach wire with. Hole is at 2 o'clock position. This shows location of hole from outside of cover. The hole in the brush plate is shown at the 7 o'clock position. Picture of grounding wires. I used two 14 gauge wires. The terminals for 12 gauge and up had too large of a mounting lug for mounting screw size I wanted to use. Wires attached to end cover. Wires attached to brush plate. View of starter mounted on engine. I have since added an 8 gauge wire that runs from the bottom mounting bolt for the starter to the right side of the engine block. I attached wire to the block at the same point the main ground wire from the battery attaches.
-
hi from sunny England just pull of starter clutch found crack so need new/second hand .MY GEAR has 76 theeth ?should it be 72 if so where did the76 come from many thanks [ time is not importance its the importance of time]dell the cockney from across the pond:doh:
-
Hi I am going to look at an '87 Virago 1100, with 150kM / 93k miles, on Thurdsay evening. It sounds like a bargain, even despite its age, mileage and some mechanical issures. I just can't resist, even though I already have more bikes than I can afford to put on the road. I understand that the bike is aflicted with a starter problem common to the breed and that at present the starter does not engage at all. Also the bike has been in storage for a year or so and has no gas or oil in it at present. I am prepared for the fact that the bike needs some work but I would like to assure myself at the very least, that the engine is not siezed. What is the easiest way to do that at a pre sale inspection on someone elses turf when the starter is not available? http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/Virago1100/c1e731a4.jpg I am thinking that I could pull an engine cover to expose the end of the crank and then turn it with a socket wrench or I could get the bike rolling in an upper gear and pop the clutch and judge if it stops too quickly. Neither of these seem particularly doable away from home turf. If I put the bike on its centre stand, should I be able to turn the rear wheel by hand in an upper gear? Suggestions, advice, experience? Thanks, Brian H.
-
Dan i have my local dealer ask me about your mod and says he has a lot of vmax owners asking about starter clutch upgrades. would it be ok to give him your contact info for these vmax owners. i didn't want to give the info until i asked you about it. And i will pm you when i get my flywheel off. -
Where is the best place to get a starter fo a 83 venture. I have a dead spot on my starter. Sometimes when i try to start my scoot the lights go dim.Try a few minitues later it will start. Plan on pulling out the starter and cleaning it. thanks. Doug
-
Starter rebuild kits
Snaggletooth posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
A few weeks ago there was a thread running about brushes for the starters. I saw today there were a couple of listings for starter rebuild kits. This is a pretty good price for the kit seeing as how the brushes are a bit out of line from the dealers. Everything your need for a full rebuild. Just fyi. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Starter-KIT-Yamaha-M-C-XV12T-XVZ12T-Venture-XV12-XVZ12_W0QQitemZ290400764713QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439d3c0329 Item # 290400764713 -
is their a place to get starter brushes other then the dealer,etc thanks
-
I am pleased to announce for our VR members a starter clutch mod that will last forever and put an end to that "Clunkety-clunk" that you hear when your starter clutch is going bad. I will let Squeeze explain it much better than I ever could: The stock Starter Clutch is a one Way Clutch which uses three spring loaded Rollers the connect to the big 72th Gear Wheel which is the last Gear in the line of several Gears coming from the Stater Motor. These 3 Rollers connect (in Fact they run) to the inner Area of the Wheel by spring Force and clamping Force. This whole Assembly sits in a Housing which is bolted to the Flywheel with 3 Bolt in M8 Thread. Over Time, these Bolts tend to get a little bit loose plus the Rollers and the Surface they're running at develop some flat Spots and chattering Marks too. This is the common Scenario where the Problem starts to get heard. If the Battery is cold and/or isn't in the best Shape anymore, the Rollers can't "bite" strong enough to the connecting Area and the Clutch lets go for a half a Turn. If The Rollers bite on a chattering Mark or a flat Spot the Connection they may hold on or let loose again. This Movement creates the hammering Sound and puts a Lot of more Force on the loose Bolts. This, of Course, allows even more uncontrolled Movement of the Clutch Assembly and a even more dysfunctional Clutch. As an nasty Side Effect, the Clutch can, and i know of two Cases where it actually did, cause the Starter to act as an Generator because the One Way Clutch wasn't a Clutch anymore but a solid Connection. This caused the Starter Motor to burn down on both Cases. I suspect a Lot more of these Cases, but there's not enough reliable Data for me to make a final Call. I've seen a Lot of these Clutches and not one of them was even partially reusable. I have Buddies which tried to reuse some Parts, but they did the Job twice or even three Times in the End. I know a Bunch of Guys with heavily modified Engines, meaning 1500 cc Vmaxxes at least, and each and everybody of them had their Share of Head Ache in this Regard. The Record Holder of those is the Guy with a 1600 cc High Compression Motor who needed three complete Starter Clutch Assemblies each Season. So, in the End, you have two Options to get the Job done First Option is to buy a complete Set of new Parts, not just the small Set of Rollers, Springs, Caps, but also three Bolts, the Housing and the 72th Wheel, mount the Assembly exactly in centered Position to the Fly Wheel, red Loctite the Threads of the Bolts and don't forget to punch the End of Threads with a Center Punch. Then cross your Fingers, say a Prayer or both and hit the Starter Button after completing the Install. Feel good about the cheap (around 185 Bucks for the Parts) Repair but you need to keep the Procedure in Mind, because most likely you'll do that again some Time later. Or Second Option Send your Rotor over to Dano in a 12x10x5 Inch Package, get it back with the Gaskets (optional), don't worry about having the Clutch Assembly mounted exactly centered to the Flywheel, just mount the Rotor and the new 72th Wheel and have a good Time while being a happy Camper. This is because Dano will mount a much more sophisticated Clutch Assembly, which uses 18 Ellipses instead of three Rollers. The Ellipsis are spring loaded too and because of their Shape, not only bite at the 72th Wheel, but lock up the Connection between Rotor and 72th Wheel. Because of the ellipsoid Design, you won't need to worry about burning down your Starter Motor. I sure you weren't worried about that before, but it's good to be sure anyway. Not to mention, getting the Flywheel off the Crank Shaft can be a ... well ... how do it say this ... pita ... Yes, this Upgrade is more expensive than Option 1 and it will need a little bit more of Downtime because of the Transit Times of the Parcel. But you'll be a happy Camper and never think about the Starter Clutch Issue again. Oh, except maybe the Times somebody tells you his 1Gen or Vmax produces a hammering Sound upon starting ... Squeeze Now for the nitty-gritty. All you need to do is remove your flywheel/rotor, send it and a check for $275.00 (US, VR discount and return shipping included, Canada shipping a bit more) to me and a couple of days later I will return it to you with the starter clutch mod already mounted ready to go back on your bike. You will also need to get the 2 left side cover gaskets and crush washer for the lower bolt on the middle gear cover. If you would like me to supply them, an additional $15.00 will be added ($290.00 total US). If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to PM me or call me at 317-370-0139 anytime and I'll be happy to discuss it with you. An additional note here for non-members wishing this mod- Price will be $295 US, gaskets priced the same. Dan Shipping address: Dan Obert 8699 W 800 N Indianapolis, In 46259-9402 Paypal & email addy: danob11@comcast.net __________________
-
Oh well Right in the middle of one of the nicest weather fall seasons I can remember, my venture just decided that it is time to go to bed for the winter. Getting ready to leave work, in a dark empty secluded parking lot behind the plant I hit the start button and got a god awful clunk instead of a start. Tried the starter again and got another heavy clunk but at least this time it grabbed and started. whew. So I rode the 1 hour home all the while worrying and trying to figure out what was wrong with my baby. As soon as I got home I came on here and searched for starter clunk and low and behold was thread after thread describing my problem to a T. So now the scoot has gone night night for the winter, till spring when I can get to work on installing the new starter clutch And of course while I have it apart I need to look at the clutch to see why it has started slipping at full throttle. Maybe I'll have to round up some vittles for the grill and see if help shows up. Oh my poor baby.....
-
Please help. I am completely stumped. There has got to be something that I am overlooking. Possible I have not been clear in relating the symptoms and thought if I reiterate them step by step fresh eyes might be able to catch something that I/we have over looked. Battery (Odysee PC680 replacement battery under warranty 4 months old) charged battery to fully charged acording to battery charger, on bench when charger was removed battery read 13.01 dcv by digital meter 12 hours later battery read 12.82 dcv 36 hrs later battery read 12.82 dcv 48 hrs later battery read 12.82 dcv reinstalled back into bike........@ 12.82 volt......... starter drags dragging starter quickly draws battery down to 12.4 to 12.6 volts put charger back on battery charger.... charger charges battery back up to 12.8 + volts within seconds less than one minute. Starter solenoid Battery hot at 12.82 dcv line side of solenoid 12.82 load side of solenoid with starter button pushed... 10.5 dcv to 11.00 dcv starter drags this would indicate high resistance across solenoid right But, with battery hot 12.82, using jumper cord from + battery terminal and checking dcv to opposite end of jumper cord shows 12.82.... touch opposite end of jumber cable directly to starter power lug...........starter drags Starter Powered starter on the bench.... it runs fine reinstalled on bike........ it drags Starter gears opened side covers gears look fine. remove starter gears...... starter clutch gear spins freely clockwise but, is stationary in counter clockwise direction. with the three smaller gears removed. hit start button with starter mounted but 3 gears removed starter runs fine put three gears back in an reset side cover........ starter drags with starter gears removed and rachett on flywheel bolt engine turns smoothly in both directions except for expected compression lobe of cylinders with spark plugs in. Meaning that engine turns easily but you can feel compression build and realease as valves open and close. All cables + and - have been upgraded and all connection points have been inspected, cleaned and checked. an additional ground from engine block to frame has been added. What am I missing? I am hoping fresh eyes on problem can ad some insight.
-
Once again I have the reoccuring problem of the starter draggin. Now it's dragging so bad that it won't turn the engine over. sometimes it will catch and crank mostly it just sounds like it doesn't have enough power to turn the engine over. As indicated this is an reoccurring problem I went through this several months ago and thought I had it fixed by replaceing the bad under warrenty Odyssee battery. It worked great for a while then started acting up again and got progressively worse until now it just won't hardly crank. I've jumped out from hot battery to power lug on starter and it is doing the same thing. I've removed the starter and have taken it apart and cleaned it up and reinstalled. No Help. The battery wires have all been upgraded and have also added a second ground from engine ground point to frame. All the ground points are in good shape. I'm at the end of my rope. Does anyone have any suggestions.
.thumb.JPG.2b1dc631eccfc19293a750f948a0b833.JPG)
(Custom).thumb.JPG.9e28ea2111ab3dc9d16dacf3023dbe7d.JPG)
