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Showing results for tags 'screw'.
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I've lost one of the covers over the visor screw on my Nolan N41 helmet. I've looked everywhere for a replacement and even ordered a couple of times but always get a email back saying that it is not available. So, if you have an old Nolan N41 that you want to sell, please let me know. I don't care if the helmet is totally trashed out, I just need the small covers on the side that cover the allen screw for the shield. I'll pay you for the helmet, you can send me the covers and then through the helmet away.
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clutch bleeder screw, where is it ???? 2005 rsv need to flush fluid , also want to try speed bleeder.
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Is there an easily obtainable replacement for the clutch bleed screw? Mine has been rounded and probably should be replaced the next time I bleed the clutch. I see in BikeBandit that I can get a replacement assembly (with the rubber cover) for $19 and change. Is there a better option? -
I was looking at my bike at lunch today and seen a screw in the back tire oh joy!! I called around and nobody will put a plug in it and only want to put a new tire on the back for 220 bucks any ideas? Thanks
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to LED's. I bought 1 1/4" X 3 1/2" LED's from J & P Cycle, REAL nice people, the entire experience with them was first class. The rear LED's fit perfectly inside the existing reflectors. Just popped the reflectors out, drilled another hole to accept the wires and ran them thru the crash bar. On the front I replaced the reflectors totally with the new LED's. I had to make a backing plate out of aluminum with a stainless flat head screw thru the lower portion. Not wanting to make the wires bulky I merely taped them with black electrical tape and ran them with the brake line. I didn't attach them to the line but I think I can find some stand offs to keep them in place if they start moving. The LED's are 1 1/4" wide and the smallest aluminum flat I could find was 1 1/2" so I cut them down with my band saw, knocked the corners off and went to work with 180 girt paper. With some patience and a lot of rubbing I managed to come up with 4 smooth edges on each one and nice radius on the corners. To set the stainless ( 12/32 X 3/4" ) screw in the plate I drilled, put a champfer in it and locked it in place with it's nut then used a nail set to 'marry' the aluminum to the screw head. Then just for insurance I put a drop of crazy glue on the head and the underside. I neglected to take a picture of the front mounting plate but it's pretty simple once it's shaped to the LED. Thanks to all that have already done this conversion, it ended up a fairly easy chore. So - thanks for posting your methods and results
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Apparently, I had a screw loose (in more ways than one, I'm sure), but this one was on my '07 Venture, and it's no longer loose, it's gone! Darn! I hate loosing parts. My probably with this one in particular, is that I can't locate it in Yamaha's exploded microfiche. The dealer can't find the part number either. We're both stumped. Let me try and explain where and what it is. There is a section of plastic (ABS) directly in front of the left floorboard. I always called it "Cowling", but perhaps that's not the correct term for that part. Anyway, directly in front of my left floorboard in that plastic piece, there is a place for a screw of some type. That's what's missing off my bike. The plastic piece now rattles a bit, and vibrates at speed. I would like to know a Yamaha Part number for that particular screw if possible. And, even more importantly . . . exactly what size and type of screw I would need to replace it correctly. Any assistance would certainly be appreciated. Thanks! Pete & Sandy
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Got the backrest today via UPS. It took me longer to get a drill and bit than it did to install it. The only criticism I might have is that there was no lock nut on the screw to adjust the forward/backward setting. Since it was VERY easy to turn the screw by hand, I wonder if it will vibrate and continually be out of adjustment ?? Not really a big deal, should be able to find a nut at the local hardware. It sure is PURTY tho --
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On the Master Cyl Reservoir cap for my front brakes one of the screws is stripped out. It looked like the Previous Owner tried to open it and butchered the head and stopped. I noticed this so I bought 4 stainless replacements for the Clutch and Front brake reservoir caps. I cant get this last one out. I gave it a small squirt from some WD-40 and let it soak for a couple of hours, but it still stripped out. Any ideas on how to get the screw out without damaging the reservoir? -
disregard post.. de-idioted the book and figured it out..
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At MarCarl's VentureIn event, a few members suggested that I post an idea for mounting running lights that dosen't require brackets. I mounted a pair of "Xreme" 55w lights just below the fairing and beside the rad side wings by removing the top threaded screw holding the aluminum side piece and using a longer threaded screw in its place to hold the lights in place. In my cse, I inserted a half inch spacer so the light that I used were in a perfect position. You can judge for yourelf whether the location looks good for you, but it sure functions well. Also, with "Xtreme" lighting kit that I bought (the oval shaped lights), everything needed came with the kit to install it directly to the battery (with an in line fuse) and to locate the switch inside the gas cap area. Didn't have to cut a single wire or drill holes. I may mount a switch on my dash some day, but for now, the location works surprisingly well as I can easily switch the lights on or off when I am riding. -
I was riding the V-Star Saturday, on my way over to meet folks for lunch at Bobby's BBQ (Augusta M&E) and had to stop for the first gas-up of the day. Imagine my horror when I stuck the key in the cap and discovered it was loose-fitting, and worse, would not come off! Eventually, I was able to maneuver the cap off, with a part or two spilling into my hand. To my dismay, I discovered that one of the two screws holding the whole assembly together was missing and the other one was quite loose. Well, not missing, exactly, because it was likely in the bottom of the tank, in a place that I could not possibly get to. I disassembled the cap completely because it was obvious that other parts might be missing or dislodged. Thankfully, I was able to put it all back together and make it operational again. Because the screw was fairly long (well over an inch) and I was in the middle of nowhere, I determined to continue the ride, thinking it highly unlikely that a screw that size could possibly wiggle its' way beyond the tank. An hour or so later I arrived intact at the meeting place, just a couple of minutes ahead of everyone else. After lunch, when we were all just about to head our separate ways home, I told my little tale to Bryan and mentioned that he might want to check his gas cap. Sure enough, a screw was missing on his gas cap, as well! So, this is just a little heads-up: you might want to pull out a phillips head screwdriver, pull off the gas cap, turn it bottom side up, and make sure the two screws are sufficiently tightened. TERRY -
The left air vent grill by the handlebars on my 87 Venture broke off and I want to put it back on, the tab broke off where the screw goes. What is the best glue that will hold the tab securely? thanks
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This weekend I discovered the rubber gourmet had wore out and let the screw pull through. The battery cover (or fake gas tank cover) flipped up and hit me in the face. This is Not a good thing going down the highway at 75 mph. Luckily I caught mine and got stopped with no danage. Make sure you check this and add a washer to prevent this from happening to you. I added a dime size washer tio mine to keep it down at high speeds..... Here the pics. 1 pic is the rubber gourmet 2 pic is the washer added to the screw 3 pic is everything put together. 4 pic is closer shot of everything.
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Getting ready to install my new left side lower fairing. The original cracked right where the center screw tab is. Now I notice that there is quite a bit of stress from the screws not lining up properly. I have tweeked the brackets a little and that seems to help. The crash/tipover bars are not bent. I'm thinking of omitting the center screw altogether. Has anyone else had this problem?
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Just picked up my 86 last week and it would appear I have an issue already. I've put about 500km's on her since I picked her up and every now and then I get a wiff of antifreeze. This morning I spotted two 2" dia wet spots under the engine. Antifreeze. It's coming from the drain valve. I dried everything off and found a couple of interesting things. First according to the manuals there is a screw that holds the plug in place = not on mine. It appears as if the head has snapped off the screw. How does one get the plug out to inspect it? Second, if I turn the plug it simply goes all around as opposed to stopping in either the open or closed position. Is this normal...does this plug simply turn 360 degrees?? The manual says to align it with a mark either open or closed for purposes of draining the rad.....I can't seem to find a mark on the housing only a hole top dead centre...is that it? For the time being I have the plug turned so that it appears closed (same as the picture in the manual) and the leak has apparently stopped. Questions I suppose I'll have to drain everything and drill out the screw in order to remove the plug and probably replace the gasket which I suspect is the cause for the leak....am I on the right track here?? Any suggestions?? How big of a PITA is this going to be. Another totally unrelated question for anyone who responds....how do you remove the fuel filter?? There is some sort of bracket or something holding it in place. How do you get in there? Any help here would be good. Thanks Ed
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I wrote last fall about how unimpressed I was with the Colortune to set the fuel mixture, and I promised then to report back on how my exhaust gas analyzer compared - well, here it is. Sorry it took so long. Most exhaust gas analyzers are quite expensive - $2,000 to $5,000! And my research shows that there are not a bunch of Cheap types, then a bunch of expensive one, they are virtually ALL expensive. So when I found one that I might actually think of buying, the Gunson Gastester, about $230, I had to think long and hard about just how good this thing might be. The few reviews I found on the web were contradictory - some said it worked well, others said it was junk. I took the chance, and I am glad I did. Before I go there, however, let's talk about the three ways I know of to approach this task. First is by ear and a tach. You simply turn out the mixture screw until the engine reaches the highest RPM, then back in just enough so the RPM begins to drop off. I am never comfortable with this method, since it seems so danged imprecise, but when I have used it and then compared it to instrument measurements, I have always gotten it quite close. Second is to use the Colortune - a device with a glass window in the spark plug so you can see the color of the flame. I only tried mine once, and I was unimpressed by how far you could turn the mixture screw in either direction before seeing ANY change in the color of the flame. That one time, when I got done - just guessing where to leave the screw, it turned out to be almost the exact right setting. I can't imagine it was anything but luck. So I think the Colortune is good only if you have a carb so far out of whack ANYTHING you do might be better. Real exhaust gas analyzer, where you can actually know how a change affects the combustion. The Gunson Gastester only measures CO%. This is not everything that a quality instrument would measure, but CO% is a good indicator of the combustion efficiency. The biggest problem I have with using a CO meter is that I have not been able to find any published spec from Yamaha on the CO setting for this engine, so I just have to use general engine info. Basically, CO% in free air is about 2%, so CO in exhaust at 2% is about as perfect as you can get - less is too lean, more too rich. Generally, an engine running anywhere between 2% and 4% CO is good. The Gastester is very cheaply made - seems like flimsy plastic, and the part that actualy reads the CO is just held on with double sided tape that falls off. This does NOT give one confidence. Most important to know, when the instructions tell you that this device cannot be moved after the 10 minute calibration, they ain't kidding! Any movement at all will send the numbers out the window! It is slow and tedious, with lots of waiting for calibration and readings to stabilize. But it DOES work. I don't have time to do a proper writeup with pictures right now before my trip, but I will when I return. I found that the setting of the mixture screws is fairly sensitive, with as little as 1/4 turn making a noticeable change in the CO%. This is particularly important when I contrast it to the Colortune, where turning the screw TWO or THREE entire turns did not seem to change the color of the flame at all! Hope that info is of value. Ride Safe! Goose
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I have been one of those VR owners that from time to time had a small puddle of coolant under the front of my 87'VR. Today, after draining the coolant, I pulled that @#$% Phillips head screw, removed the Drain plug and chased the ball and spring all across the shop floor. Who knew this was going to be this much fun! I cleaned up the Drain Plug and removed the old O'ring. I then cleaned the bore the Drain Plug goes into with Steel Wool. I installed the new O'ring, returned the spring and ball to it's rightful place, put the plug back into the bore and at this point I decided I didn't want to deal with that @#$% Phillips head screw so I replaced it with a Stainless Steel Allen Head cap screw and lock washer. Boy was it easier to tighten up that cap screw then that Phillips head screw! After filling the coolant and a test drive, guess what, No more leak! I attached some pics below. Earl -
I have a friend who lives in Virginia Beach and he is having problems with his scoot and needs some help. He has a 1980 Honda CB 750 that sat for about 18 months. All things considered he says the bike runs well, with 1 exception.................when he has the bike running it will not idle properly. He can't get the idle adjusted DOWN to the right rpm's. He said that he has tried adjusting the idle screw, and even accidentally backed it off so much the screw came out (evidently a real pain to put back in), and this does not effect the idle speed. He has contacted both Honda dealers in the area and they won't touch the bike because of the the year. Any suggestions on how to fix the idle or a good shop that he can take his bike too to look at the problem?
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Well, I am finishing up my fourth carb and found that I need the two gaskets, which seem to be overly priced ($20 each) every where I look. Is there a cheaper place to find them? Especially the thick one under the idle enrichment valve. Also, it seems that the PO was kind enough to misplace the bowl drain screw for one of the carbs. Is it possible to find one of those somewhere as well? All the parts fiche places don't seem to show it as separate from the carb body. It might be that my eyes are failing me though....
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I'm doing a little preventative maintenance on my 07RSV. Found missing screw on trunk lid slider but screw was in trunk. Tightened others. Aslo putting on light bar for brake lights from Signal Dynamics. Found out need to have 1" spacers. My main question is do you loose any memory (not mine, the radio or computer) by disconnecting the wiring connectors under the front cowl to install the dielectric grease? Also should I disconnect the battery first? Thought I'd better get this stuff done before it's too late. Thanks for any replies.
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:bowdown:Hey - Stupid question here...I just changed brake fluid, front and rear, and I would like to change my clutch fluid, but I can't seem to find the bleeder screw. Can anyone help me out here, and post a picture, or email a picture to thelonegray@yahoo.com? Much appreciated. Thanks!
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Ok I had a brain fart, Where is the idle screw on an 89 royal?.....Duh!
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I know this has been discussed ad nausium, but here we go again. Which screw on filter fits the 1stGen screw on oil adapter. There's a FRAM on the '91 now, but the writing and stock number are gone. Why? Donno...?? The only thing I can think of is it's been on there for a very very long time. I haven't changed the oil in it since I picked it up... but then again I haven't taken it anywhere either.. I thought I'd try putting MC specific motor oil in it to see if that will cure the leak. From what I can see it looks like it's coming from around the back of the pan gasket. I also found traces of silicon around the drain plug as if the PO thought that might have been the source of the leak?? And ...he may have put a synthetic in the motor?? It worth a shot to see if it'll work. Anyway, again, what's the filter number. Anyone?? If that doesn't work I'll be taking it over to a tech. Getting too old to be crawling around on my back. A chair is a good thing...
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Hi folks new here. This is bike http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/Torkk/Virago/IMG_2569.jpg Im having some issues atm, Mainly I have no clue where the pilot mix screws should be set at. They were messed with by the previous owner. I checked em today LF 4 turns LR 7 turns RF4.25 turn and the RR I cant check its frozen and the head is messed up the screw driver wont bite on it. Does anyone know what the screws should be set at? How do I remove a frozen pilot screw?
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OK I bypassed the sensor with the 2.2 ohm resistor. Instead of hooking to the acc. wire, I hooked a conector to the wire and mounted it under the screw that went to the fuse that I was supposed to solder to. Is this OK? Kevin
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