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Showing results for tags 'relay'.
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The fuel pressure switch sends constant voltage to the fuel pump relay on my bike. I can see this when the pressure is low but when pressure is achived I stll get 10.2 volts up to the relay ?????? is this normal ????? The relay will close when it gets 10.9 volts or higher. I guess I am just wondering if I need to change it or not. Or just let the pump run full time LOL.... Any help would be appreicated... -
I just bought my 89 Venture Royale and when I press the Horn button I can hear the Relay clicking. I have looked all over the inside of the fairing and around the bike for the horn(s) and can not locate them? Not sure if they are missing or if I am not looking in the correct place. Can anyone tell me where they are located from the factory? I've looked at the wiring diagrams but still no luck. Don't like not having a horn............ Pictures would be awesome if available. THANKS!! -
What would be the proper relay to wire the passing lamps? I'm assuming that something like this could be purchased from the local auto parts store.
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The boat I got last year has a set of air horns in it. I don't think I need them on the boat as much as on my '83 vr! I haven't dug into it yet so I don't even know what parts need to be moved...I assume there has to be some sort of compressor as well as the horns themselves. I've read about needing relays when adding just about any electrical stuff to our bikes. Is there a concern of how much power they draw? what relay do I need? (if any) Does the relay used depend on the draw? I assume it goes on the hot wire between the battery and load? I wouldn't think so, but just to be sure, should it be close to the battery or close to the load or does it matter? And lastly....what the heck does a relay DO anyway?
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A big THANK YOU to raceman62race for providing this PDF document for the Yamaha Passing Lamp installation. These are the original instructions from Yamaha that many say do not always come with the lamps. Most folks here would recommend that you supplement these instructions by adding a relay. Adding a relay will prevent the extra load of the lights from passing through your ignition switch and also isolates the passing lamps from your normal light circuit which would prevent your losing your headlight in the event of a short circuit within the passing lamps. Here is a simple diagram on wiring a relay for the lamps. [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=525]Standard Passing Light Relay Wiring - VentureRider.Org[/ame] The actual Yamaha instructions are attached here as a pdf file. Passing Lamp Installation Document
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I bought a set of passing lamps used so of coarse no instructions. Where should I get the power from? Do I need relay?
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I'm working on a '86'vr that I bought as a parts bike. The dealer said that it would only run if they poured gas down the carbs. He didn't want to mess with it. Turns out the fuel pump relay had some thing rattling around inside it, cut it open and found little electrical stuff burned off. Question 1. Can I use the Class relay in place of fuel relay? It plugs right in and runs the fuel pump but, it looks way different than the correct relay. (I'm eliminating the Class system) Question 2. Is the diode in the starting circuit essential or can it be bypassed? When in neutral the start button wouldn't work I pull the clutch lever, button works. Tested diode D2 not working properly shows infin. on both poles D1 ok resister read 8.3 omhs. When I jump the D2 poles the start button works fine. Mike -
Can anyone tell me why i get a single click on deceleration between 35 an 45 mph.I,m not on the brakes ,not shifting,not touching the clutch,just slowing down.It sounds like an electrical relay opening or closing.Bike run fine,no other problems,just a click.Can't tell exactly where its coming from.
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I have a 2008 Venture and up until now, everytime I turned the key on and moved the kill switch to the on position, I immediately heard a series of clicking noises which I presumed was the fuel relay. My battery had died and I recharged it and now it makes no clicking sound but it will start OK. Have I fried the relay or is that even what the noise was. I called the stealer and he said as long as it starts and runs it is nothing to worry about but I don't know. Please help.
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Had a wire come off the stable horn. Touched the pipe and caused a short. It melted some plastic off the wiring in the fairing. I've gone through and re-taped, replaced, and recovered the wiring. Everything comes on when you turn on the ignition. But when you press the starter button the Starter Relay Assembly buzzes and thats all. What have I messed up or did the short cause the relay to go bad? I checked all the fuses behind the right side lower cover. Checked the ones under the left side cover below the seat. Checked both fuses that are on the Starter relay assembly. What am I missing? Part number 37 is what is buzzing. http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/YAM/2/02/0025/0053.Gif
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I want to add an Accessory fuse block. I have searched the subject but can't find much info. I'm looking for what type of fuse box and relay I'll need and how to wire the relay. Thanks
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Is there a fuse that is on only when the bike is running? Would like to add a relay for new HID headlight and wire the relay to come on only after the bike has started.
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I've been thinking about adding a relay to power the headlight hi/lo directly from the battery, essentially bypassing the connection through the CMU. It could be done using one relay with normally closed going to the lo beam with the switched circuit going to the hi beam operated by the dimmer switch. Or alternatively using one relay for each of the hi and lo beams. I pulled this quote from another thread. Gary what relay option did you use? The first one would seem the simplest but may not allow the lo beam to be shut off by the start circuit. -
I've added a few accesories to my '06 RSTD. (Disregard picture date stamps) The first picture is Baron Sub Sonic Tach. I did not have to lengthen any wires to install. Second picture shows the Kuryakyn LED voltage meter. Following the advise of past posts here, I ran a dedicated (#16) wire from my relay contact to the meter. I wired the coil of the relay to the RSTD supplied accessory wiring lead (under seat), so the relay is made when the ignition switch is in "ACC" position. Meter shows one green light with the engine off and two green lights with the engine on - passing lamps on or off. Third picture is a Garmin Zumo and a clutch side switch from www.BigBikeParts.com . The switch came with three toggle switches. I removed the center one, enlarged the hole and added a www.Powerlet.net socket. Powerlet also supplied the plug to the Zumo. The Dealer had installed the Passing Lamps as part of my negotiations. I removed their crappy wiring and useless lamp mounted toggle switch. Rewired to the 1st toggle switch of clutch side switch (2nd toggle for "Future"). Power for this switch is from the same relay as volt meter with a dedicated #14 wire feed. Now my headlight and passing lamps are on different fuses. Forth picture shows Garmin Zumo and Clearview windshield. The red button on the Garmin mount is to toggle the Tach's LED light colors. Fifth picture is a Powerlet socket mounted to the plastic cover. It is wired in parallel with the clutch side switch off of the relay. Sixth picture is the Garmin mount removed. Seventh picture is of two Powerlet sockets mounted on left side in front of saddle bag. These are wired direct (fused) to the battery. Plug the Battery Tender Jr. in here with Powerlet supplied adapter. If I ever get any heated riding gear, I've got a plug. Last picture is under the seat showing Powerlet fuses and added relay. I like these Powerlet (BMW style) plugs. They are smaller than a cigarette plug and carry more current. I think they will become the standard for motorcycles. In the mean time, I have a Powerlet to cigarette plug adapter.
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OK you guys that know the electrical of a first gen inside out. I am thinking about mounting an air tank and compressor in one of my saddle bags on a 1st gen. When running, the compressor will pull 16 Amps. It should never have to run for more than 2 minutes, typical run time is 30-45 seconds. I hope it will not need to run more than once a week, once the novelty wears off. Will the electrical system handle this? If not; I was thinking of installing a secondary battery with a SPDT relay so that the bike electrical system will never have to power the compressor. The extra battery would be connected to the com term of the relay and the compressor will be on the N.O. side with the bike power for charging on the N.C. side. The coil would be wired in series with the secondary battery and the pressure switch (through a relay) to refill the tank. The bike will still be able to charge the secondary battery when it is running, but the relay would isolate the compressor from the bike. The small 7Ah battery that I was going to use is plenty to refill the 1/2 gallon air tank 7 - 10 times before it needs a charge. My question is, how much extra load will be on the bikes electrical system while charging the battery? If charging the extra battery can/will end up pulling just as much power as the compressor then it makes no sense to add all of the extra complication. Does any of this make sense? Any other ideas of how to safely power the compressor without risk to the R/R or stator. This is most likely next winters project so I have a lot of time to work on the plan.
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I have a relay for my passing lamps but I can't seem to find the numbers #30,#85,#86 & #87. It is a 4 prong, 12v, 30 amp relay. One pin has the #38 stamped on it and no other pin has numbers. But if you look at the top with the mounting bolt hole tab on top it reads top left #85, top right #87, bottom left #86 and bottom right #30. maybe I don't have the right relay? Is this maybe how it would be hole mounting tab still at top Top pin #85, Bottom pin #86, left pin #87 and right #30?. Thanks for your help
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Does anyone have another source for purchasing a Signal Light relay for the 06 RSV? My stealership wants $126 for it and since it's on back order I now have to wait 2 to 6 weeks if I'm lucky for one to be manufactured and shipped in from Japan.. (that's what it feels like).. Any idea where a person can get another one sooner and cheaper? I can get my deposit back if I intercept them before it's shipped out.. Thanks in advance..
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Ok guys heres my problem, i am adding a highway blaster horn I picked up at autozone for 20 bucks (139db) i am mounting it in the front fairing. i have pulled a 12g 30 amp fused line from the battery to the fairing and i know it runs in to 30 on the relay, 87 will run to the horn it self i am running from the handle bar switch wire to 86 on the relay now my question whats running to 85 i know probably simple answer but basic backyard mechanic here lolol giving it my best thanks for any help
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Whoever installed the passing lights on my '99 RSV tied them in to the yellow (High beam) wire right at the headlight. I have cured that by installing a relay which is turned on and off by the R/Y wire for the headlight. What I'm also wanting to do is add a second relay for the headlight. This way none of the lighting load is going through the ignition switch. This would also enable me to put an "emergency lighting" switch in the circuit which would allow the headlight to work, completely independent from the bike's circuits. My question here is what color wire runs to the dimmer switch? In the circuit pictured, there should be a red wire with a yellow tracer. I found the R/Y wire which powers the headlight, but it goes into a plug only to come out the other side as a solid blue wire. I want to find and cut into the wire where the arrow points. once I cut it I would attach the top cut to the output (terminal 87) of the relay and the wire on the bottom of the cut would then hook to the terminal 85 or 86 on the relay. So, where in the real world harness do I make this cut?
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Ok folks due to several requests for a wiring system for the Stebel horns I've built up several assemblies. They will be a plug and play ststem so nothing will be needed. Included with the harness will be a rubber covered fuse holder, 30 amp relay, fully insulated & soldered teminals. Check out my ad in the 2nd gen parts & accessories classifieds. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2541 Thanks in advance, Larry
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The LED tail light should have been a quick install, but somewhere in my bikes past someone over tightened the screws for the lens and pulled two of the bosses out of the lens and the third one was cracked. Nothing really holding the lens on except the sticky gasket. So, get out the trusty epoxy and glue the bosses back in. After that dried, install the Radianz board. Job one finished. Now for the Stebel horn. Installed the relay on one of the bolts under the coolant recovery bottle. Removed the old right side horn and connected the old horn wires to the relay. Press the horn button to check the relay and it clicked as advertised. The factory horn behind the left fairing "clunked" meekly. Hum??? Light in my head came on, wonder if the horn I took off the right side of the bike will fit in behind the fairing? WRONG, they are completely different, but when I hooked up the "fairing horn" directly to the battery, it sounded off perfectly! Soooo, why not put it back in place and power it from the new Stebel relay????? Now all I need to do is fish a 14Ga wire under the tank. Done! Put a short 14Ga ground wire to one of the horn mounting bolts, pushed the horn button, relay clicks and the puny little horn is not so puny anymore! Now make up a "Y" connector and hook it up the the relay. Mount the Stebel air horn using the shiny Carbon_one bracket, hook it all up, push the horn button and DEY-YUM it is LOUD!!! The combination of the two horns will come close to waking the dead!!! :banana: -
So I bought some of those cheap driving lights at WalMart...Blazers I think. They're 50 watt...nice bright lights. I ordered a switch and relay from Electrical Connection and wired it up. I did a good job of wiring and figured I would replace the lights at some point with something better and keep the wiring, switch and relay. So the issue is that if the bike is idling and I switch the lights on, they don't always come on. But if I start riding, they will come on, then sometimes go out and come back on intermittently. Is it the lights, the switch, or the relay? Or is it the stator? Or, is it possible I have a loose connection or ground? Has anyone experienced anything like this on a 1st Gen Venture?
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Here we go again... Around two years ago I started having a strange indication when first turning on the ignition switch, usually after the bike had set for a few days. Turn on the switch and it would take a full 5-10 seconds before ANYTHING came on, no radio, lights, dash, nothing. Cycling the switch off and back on had no effect. I thought at first that I was loosing the switch or my mind (the most likely). After the electrics finally came on, I was good to go until she set for a few days again, no problems. Finally dug in and looked at the starting relay and found it completely encased in corosion!! Where did that cr*p come from?? Long and short of it is I cleaned everything up as best I could, pasivated the area with soda water, rinsed and replaced the relay. All is well... Until this weekend. Bike has set for several days and when I went to move it, nothing. Same indication as two years ago. No lights, no radio, no dash, all kayput! :depressed:Checked the battery voltage, good, shurly not the relay again!!! Yep, again completely covered in that white/green cr*p I have come to hate. Here we go again. Here are some pics of the relay after I knocked off most of the gunk getting it out. Notice that things were stuck together so bad that the relay came appart taking it out. The relay pins broke off inside the connector plug and the connector is toast. Might as well replace the battery cable while I'm there. Also note the paint pealing from a few areas on the swing arm just below the relay. How does all this happen with a sealed battery? This is not in an area you get to with normal cleaning, but still......
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My question is the two wires going to the old horn. Should they both show 12 volts at all times? I checked them with a light and both has 12 volts with the key on. And is this the two wires that goes to number 85 and 86 on the relay? Aslo I'm curious of where everyone placed their relays at....
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I saw on one of the bike groups a pointer to an installation guide of a headlight delay (pdf). The point is to use a relay to turn off the headlight while the starter is energized. "Doing this eliminates a 10A drain on the battery when it is needed the most." I've not noticed many issues with my RSTD, even with passing lamps on. Has anyone done this with our bikes? Is it a PITA? Dave
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