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Showing results for tags 'plugs'.
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I want to replace the vacuum plugs on the carburetors of my 2000 RSV. I have stared at the carburetor parts fiche for too long and I don't see the plugs. I know, if I can't find them, my local Yamaha Parts person is likely not to be able either. It would behoove me to call them with an exact part number, prior to my visit. I know I can get them at an automotive parts store, but the ones at O'Reilly's look cheap, and they have a smaller outside diameter, so the original clamps are too big. Thanks, dana -
87 Venture. top right of fairing there is a relay. Have a jumper I put in the socket to allow turn signals to work. If I leave it in the battery will go dead. Local dealer absolutely no help. Would like part number or even name of whatever relay plugs in there. Also, ignition switch sticking and headlamp sometimes will not work after starting. Would like to replace that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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At 25,000 miles I bought new plugs for my 04 RSV, put them in the bike and went on about my way, ofcourse the bike did not seem to run any better. Well last weekend me and Deanna my daughter were going to ride to St Simons on Sat. so friday night with 31000 miles on the RSV I took the plugs out of the truck and actually put them in the motor. Bike ran much better then. We also found the right frount plug wire was not push down on the plug all the way You know these thing run pretty good on 3 cyls. and very smooth on all 4. 46.5 mpg on the trip, running between 65 and 70 mph. On the way back DeAnna's 06 v-star 1100, dropped the frount cyl, came home on the back cyl. wide open 55 mph. found the 1100 v-star have fuel shut-off valve like lawn mower to shut the fuel off to the needle valve in the carb. frount failed.
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bike is stumbling at idle, dropping down in rpms, them back up. over and over. bike is warm. i replaced the plugs, relatively new wires, new to me tci. any ideas? -
i think the sea foam is fouling out my plugs. i used the ngk's recommended by the manul. has anyone tried a different plug? in your opinion, which is best?
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I haven't had my Gen 1 all that long and I did not know anything about the spark plug condition. I found a tip sheet that said that the best plug for my bike would be the NGK DPR8EX-9. It was not a big deal to find the plugs and replace the current NGK Iridium DPR8EIX-9 plugs. The Iridium plugs looked pretty good when I removed them. Since I have installed the new plugs I have noticed that the bike doesn't run as well. Cold starting isn't as snappy as it had been and the engine is a little lethargic when rolling off of idle. Outside of that I cant tell much difference. Was the Iridium plug really the better plug? Ray
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Ok, I'm wondering....... I used the NKG DPR8EA plugs for a couple years and wasn't happy with the life span. I changed to the NKG DP8EA plugs a year or so ago. Not much difference in how long they last. I run them at .035 gap and they are consistant with a nice tan burn on all of them. No fouling and gaps are barely off spec. I can clean and regap them and not get a lot of improvement. It's the same story every time. The bike starts and runs great for about 4,500 to 5,000 miles and all of a sudden it gets picky about starting. I mean real picky. Down right bitter about starting. It will always start, but it's a stand off for a while. A quick change of plugs and she's back to touch of the button. Same way every time. I expect more life from a plug than that but I can not find a reason for the the plugs failing at such a regular schedule. None of the obvious stuff anyway. Caps and wires were new two years ago and still test like new. No corrosion, no resistance issues. The battery isn't the problem either. It's full charge and as soon I change the plugs she's like new again. Any suggestions? Mike -
OK so I did my first work on my 2008 RSV. Oil change and filter. No problem! Spark plugs a diferent story. According to the owners manual and the Service manual easy to do, just pull the plugs, well I could not figure out how to get to the front 2 plugs. Did a search here and I have to remove the gas tank. Also in my owners manual it says I have an Auxiliary DC Jack and terminals. The terminals are right next to the battery, but I cannot find the jack. Anybody? Conclusion: Owners manual kinda sucks, service manual not much better. This site has way better info. By the way, used Purolator Pure one oil filter, and Risolene 4T semi-synthetic 20-50 oil. I am going to have the dealer do my carb sysnch this time because I just dont have time, but the next one I will do a search here and try and do it myself.
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Hi Guys, I have had my Venture Royale since 1989. Done all the maint myself...everything. I have been an electronics tech for 30+ years. Last year I replaced spark plugs, spark plug caps with all NGK, along with new 7mm hypolon copper wires. I had always used NGK spark plugs since the begining. In fact I only changed spark plugs every 20k miles or so. They were that good, and my bike tuned that well. This year I have been having "misfire" issues at idle. I finally checked the spark plug caps , wires and spark plugs. 3 spark plug caps measured OPEN(should be 5k ohms) on my digital meter and cleaned all spark plugs...3 spark plugs also open. I use non-resistor type which should read almost zero ohms. I suspect These items are NOT made in Japan or they have changed their construction of these items. These above items only had 3k miles on them. Now I have the OEM parts back in. NGK...Junk I say. Don't get stuck like me.
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When I was at the parts house today, I asked for plugs same as the last set. He looked it up useing my phone # on the computer and said,"No problem". When I get home and get my Venture torn down, he has given me plugs with a 7 instead of an 8. (DPR7EA 9)They look the same ,so whats the diff, hotter?,colder? or what. Would it hurt to use them or should I take them back. 50 miles one way. Thanks Richard
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Hi there only had the venture about a week know, but have been checking through it for faults and doing routine maintenance . Apart from the slight whine from transmission , and the audio not working, oh and the slightly slippy clutch. The bike is awesome and in excellent almost as new condtion and im very very pleased i bought her ! But as ive been cleaning and checking over the bike ive found some wires that dont seem to go anywhere one has two wires with a corroded plug, which is strange as theres no corrosion anywhere on the bike at all. The other two plugs have four wires in one and two wires in the other all the wires appear to be black in colour ??? Ive looked in the manual but cant seem to find them ? Can anyone tell me what they might be for. Cheers Edge [ATTACH]59373[/ATTACH]
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OK I am wondering what I did or maybe there isn't really any difference. I changed the plugs today in my 2000 venture and the Clymers manual said they took a NGK DPR7EA-9 When I got the old ones out and the new ones in I was cleaning things up and happened to look at the old plugs, which by the way looked new after 12,000 miles anyway the ones I took out where NGK DPR8EA-9 Anyone know what the difference is? Is one hotter than the other? Just wandering Thanks Gentleman.
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Just moved up to 08 Venture from V Star 1300, Like moving from a Chevy to a Cadillac. Just wondered if you need to remove riders seat and gas tank to change spark plugs? If removing tank is it a easy procedure? On oil change any alternative to the expensive Yamalube? Like the Venture, took a while to adjust to the additional weight and winding shaft noise but overall happy. I know we are having a hot summer especially in the midwest but it seems this bike puts lots of heat out by the floorboards compared to other bikes. Thanks for any help and happy trails. -
I checked out the other threads on this plug topic and came up with two plugs. The original NGK-DPR8EA-9 (Napa - $2.29 each, I purchased today) and this plug in a IRIDIUM NGK-DPR8EIX-9 (Napa - $10.00 each). Napa did not recommend the Iridium, when I asked if they knew anything about them. Napa parts person said the Iridium have been known to burn holes or pits in the top of the pistons. I was planning on using the original plugs anyway. So far I have figured out that the tank and dog bones has to be removed to get the plugs out. Any further advise and help in any way here is appreciated. James (Fuzzy)
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It has come to my notice that some jobs on our much beloved (and very fast) classic Ventures, just are not hard enough already. You 2nd Generation folk may skip the rest of this thread. Your bikes take longer to complete their journeys, so y'all don't have time for the extra work we need to indulge in! So easy are they that folk are feeling the need to invent a few steps not envisioned when the Workshop Manual was written. So let's examine a few common problems: Removing the Spark Plugs .... Indeed it is fortunate that this operation rarely has to be performed because it is next to impossible without first removing the engine. Rarely has it been my misfortune to encounter spark plugs so difficult to remove, if you discount the one right around the back of the motor of my Ford Windstar. Whose idea was a V4 anyway? So .... engine beautifully balanced on that upturned bucket I found in my shop, and the plugs come out in a jiffy. Why didn't Yamaha think of that? Changing the oil .... This one is dumb. Surely you changed it when you had the engine out to remove the spark plugs! No? Well then you need a hoist. Having removed the idiotic piece of plastic hiding the oil filler from all but the most "investigative" of our membership, and having somehow found just the right sized wrench that will get off the filler cap, because it was too easy to put it somewhere ... you know ... reachable, then all you need do now is hoist the bike, spin it over and the oil will run right out. Or you could remove the drain plug. Nah! Too easy. Shimming the Valves .... This one is tricky. The Workshop Manual describes the process, because it's a Workshop Manual, and that is it's reason for being. It's a simple process although even I will admit that "shims and buckets" sounds more like a Harry Potter spell than a mechanical procedure. There is a fiddly, and very expensive tiny bit of metal that needs inserting where no metal should ever be inserted. For God's sake please don't forget to remove it when you are done! Getting hold of one is hard. It involves a PM to Skydoc_17, and a promise to return it. Thanks Earl Much easier to remove the cams, having carefully measured all the gaps. Oops! Where did that chain go? There are reasons to remove cams, but shimming the valves is not a good one unless, of course, there are other reasons why you may want to spend more time in the shop. Removing the rear wheel .... Here we have a situation where the very best in "Shade Tree Mechanics" do actually beat the pants off the manual. Start by removing the front wheel. Yes, you heard right, to remove the rear wheel one first removes the front. I know, it's crazy. Having removed the front wheel, and tied the center stand to prevent it flipping up, you can then lower the bike onto it's fork ends tipping the back end up so high it gets a permanent snow covering. Handy! Rear wheel is now a no brainer. There endeth the lesson. Meet here next week for "How to adjust the drive chain" ps ... Don't get upset, my tongue is firmly attached to the inside of my cheek!
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Does anyone have a source for H4 headlight plugs? I have a pair of headlights coming that I want to hook up to the stock Hi/Lo beam switch through a pair of relays. If I can get some male and female H4 plugs and sockets the wiring can be kept reversible back to stock.
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I put in new spark plugs ... NGK double checked the gap at .035 ... and now that they are in i have a slight backfire when coming off the throttle ... anyone have any ideas? I can take them all out and check them again but I was very CAREFUL when putting them in so as not to bump them and ruin the gap. -
Hey Guys thanks for the help on the bars now I was gonna change plugs just took a quick look got all the side covers off but doesn't seem to be enough clearance is there an easy way:rotf:or a trick to get swap em ? Oh its an 83 Thanks Tom -
All fluids and filters changed out and/or cleaned, new brake pads on the rear, and new plugs installed. Wow, what a difference that made! The old plugs had about 30K miles on them, and still looked pretty good, but it was time. With all that done, I took a 240 mile ride today, and the RSV just seems to glide through the air and through each gear. All of the minor little vibrations are gone, the acceleration is amazing, the idol now purrs, and the engine never seemed to get that hot, even though it hit 88 today. I am now truly ready for my trip to DC next week, and the other 3 long rides we have planned over the next 3 or 4 months. Doin my happy dance!!!!!
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Didn't see any other posts similar to my issue, so here it goes. Long story short, last summer moved the bike to new place. Garage was cluttered, so it sat outside for 2 days. Rain on one of them. After that, the bike would idle, but as soon as you tried to give it gas, it would act as if it were limited at 1500 rpm. When that happens, the tach drops to zero. Let off the gas, tach comes back. Didn't have time to ride last year so I left it. Well it still does it. Pulled the battery out and looked at the connects on the TCI and they are dry and not excessively dirty or corroded. New plugs and there seems to be spark on all 4 although the two rear plugs I pulled out were wet. Any suggestions ? I have the shop manual and it basically says to check the resistance on the coils and if that's not it, replace the TCI. I'm in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. It's nice today and I'd really like to ride again. Please help ! Phil -
My last two takes of gas, I have only gotten about 30 mpg in my 05 RSTD. I have consistently gotten 35-38 as long as I have had the bike. Changed plugs and air filters last year, oil is good, nothing different in the bike or riding styles. Took a laser thermometer to measure the exhaust pipes right where the come out of the cylinders. The front two, which are hard to get a reading on because of the shielding, I think I got ~250. The rears I can see the actual pipe and got ~650 on each. Wondering if I just haven't gotten a good reading on the fronts, or if I am actually having some firing issues. Will pull the plugs and check, but wanted opinions on exhaust pipe temperatures.
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I have an 89 VR. The last I rode it was mid Oct 2010 of which I just finished most of a tank full of seafoam. Did some minor maintenance. The only maintenance ignition and carb related was changed new plugs. It has been on the center stand with a battery tender all this time. I did start it once in the winter and allowed it to warm up really good. That was before I changed the plugs. Got the exact same plugs and cerified the manufactured gap. I turn the key and heard the clicking of what I think is the fuel pump. After 10 seconds the clicking slowed and stopped. I pulled the choke, made sure the run switch was on and then hit the starter. It turns over good. I was expecting that about the 3rd hit to the started I would get some form of life in the V4. The engine did kind of start as I kept on the starter and the choke, but could not sustain it self. I stopped and looked on the floor and saw a large puddle of fluid. I pushed the VR forward then smelled the liquid and yes it is fuel. With it on the side stand I noticed that fuel was leaking by the dampness indicator on the left side. But thats probably because I had put it on the side stand. I removed the left side cover and could see what I think is the mono shock and it looks really wet like fluid is leaking on it. Any suggestions? -
Sometimes students come into my class and I'm sure even they don't know what they been smoking. BUT have you ever had conversations with a pair of gurus who KNOW what they been smoking? I'm posting up the latter part of conversations I've had with them. If you're a guru (who knows what they are smoking) what would you say? Have to figure out if it is electrical or fuel issues. New plugs, ride it, and then look at them. Running hot or fouling. Rough in low rpms? does it clear when you get it going? Rough all the way through? Then you think about what to start looking for. Good answer eh Also it would be interesting to note whether or not the plugs are firing inside the engine. You'll have to go for another ride to here to find that out. Also, did you remove the ignition wires when you changed the motor, so are the wires going to the right plugs from the right coils. Still need to know what kind of ignition wires you have,,, copper or carbon? The other thing could be that the boots under the carbs are not seated properly, they may have come off after you put them on properly,, it happens,,,, that would give false air into the cylinders and also throw off a carb tune, and so you would have the same symptoms that you have now. Carbtune done with Tuckett's unit, with Tuckett watching, I've done it a dozen times myself too. Wires are copper, not carbon. Wires were not removed during this engine swap. Regardless, I know which wires go where. Carbs are seated properly on the boots. I've taken the carbs off the bike every winter as part of my normal cleanup, with last winter being a total rebuild, ran good. On reinstallation for one of those times I didn't get them seated properly on the boots and noticed that fact by how it ran before I got to the corner stop sign, black smoke, that is not the problem this time. I'm concluding it's a fuel delivery issue. How about you? Plugs removed looking a very little bit white ...too lean a mixture? If it were my bike sitting here, I would check all the plug wires to make sure they are firing properly,,, just to rule that out,,, buuttt too lean a mixture will also give you problems but then it would tend to bog out when you twist the throttle,, which I don't think it does. Some more questions then: Do you need a choke for a cold start? Does it run better with the choke partially closed? Did you replace the fuel filter? A far out question,,,, are you sure it's a 1300 engine? Something that's interesting is the way it starts and takes off, doesn't seem to be any problems there. Post it up, and see if anybody else has better ideas. Carl some more answers then... I need choke for a cold start, same as always, between a quarter and half of the lever. I does not run better at partial choke. Fuel filter gets replaced with every rear tire change. The Pinwall Cycle video shows the bike coming in was a MkII with '89 colours. The engine that I picked up had all the 1300 badging on the side covers. I'm still stuck on ignition. When I sprayed WD40 into the intakes, it didn't change anything. So if the fuel delivery was on the low side or none at all, it should have smoothed out, if the fuel was rich it would have started bogging down, that's why I would think ignition, and I would like to see if those plugs are firing under load. Did you do a compression test on this engine, if it's low in a couple of cylinders, it would also present the same symptoms. I'll tell ya'll what I say.....if I start caring more about what an engine looks like than how it runs, I must be gettin ready to ride a 2nd gen...OH WHAT HATH BECOME ME!
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I had a mac. tell me if you use a large amount of Sea fome in some thing you should change plugs after words because it damages the plugs. Has any one notesed this??? I would think it would help clean up the plugs! Don't Know
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Hello all, I has a slight coolant leak under the cylinder "fins" that developed over the winter while in storage on my '03 RSV. From talking to people and reading posts by the fine folks here, I ordered in new plugs and changed all 4. Taking out the old ones, I lost some coolant as expected. The new plugs fit fine and I have no leaks now. The question I have is the new plugs have a female thread in the center of them for a bolt or screw. The old ones were just rubber with no threads. Is there supposed to be a bolt or screw that goes in the threaded portion of these new plugs? Thanks.
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