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Showing results for tags 'line'.
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I am looking into buying a trailer for my 2005 RSV. I am wondering about the difference in towing agility between the one wheel (like the N line) or a traditional 2 wheel trailer. Also any recomendations about hitches and difficulty installing them. Thanks
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I went to Dunlop main web site: They list the Elite 3, in MR90-18 Front, and MU90-16 Rear. I checked several on line dealers, but nobody seems to have the new front Elite 3 as yet. Anybody know if they are available someplace ??
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Called up my local dealer about slow leak in tire. He says the product they carry is for off road motorcycles only. Recommended using 1/2 can of Fix-A-Flat. I don't think so I heard it is not recommended for motorcycles. Is there anything over the counter locally that is comparable to ride-on? It's $50 to buy a 3 bottle kit on line direct. Do you want it this week add an extra $15 for express shipping.I don't know anything about the Slime product.I'm tempted to order the ride-on but I need it ASAP.
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I need one with brass washers for anti dive valve on 82 XVZ1200. Does anybody have one they would be willing to sell or trade.
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I've got an Ultraguard cover right now that has just, unfortunately, ripped. This cover is thin enough that I can fold it up and put it in the saddle bag and, if scrunched down, leaves about 1/2 the saddle bag still available. This is a full cover with windshield protection and heat shield on the bottom. I looked at covers on line but you just don't know how thick, heavy and bulky they are on line. I was wondering it anyone uses a similar cover, for their RSV, and what kind and model it is. I like it because it doesn't take up much space and I can take it with me and cover the bike anywhere. Any suggestions?
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I logged on to be the 38th person on line this evening. Is that the lowest number we have had on line ever?
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My wife was at a bike dealership and was looking at a used bike but what got eye was a bag that was in the trunk to put all of her stuff (brush, mirror etc) in reached from one side of the trunk to the other. I went on line and cant seem to find what she was talking about. If you guys and gals can help me out with this. thanks
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I went on a 300 mile (150 each way) Patriot Guard Riders escort today from the Indiana/IL state line to Delavan IL to escort the 1144th Motor Transport unit home from Iraq. On I-74 the group was being led by Ill State Police at 75 mph in the left lane. We had the cop, escort truck with 5 large flags and about 12 bikes then two busses with the important people on board. I was third bike, and an SUV (compact) from Florida with an old man (I am one too, but hopefully not as obnoxious as this guy) chewing on a cigar and trying to pass the unit on the right. That is OK, but he would not go by the cop, and was hanging right by the lead bikes. Then our group started coming up on a semi in the right lane and the Florida SUV decided he didn't want to be stuck behind the truck, so he just turned left and shoved the lead bike off the road! There was NO hole or room for this guy, he just decided he was going to be in our lane no matter what! The bike managed to drop back, since the SUV was maybe 2 feet off the bumper of our escort truck. Once past the truck, the SUV went back in the right lane and got a good talking at by the lead bike, but they guy was just looking straight ahead and didn't care. Again, he would not go past the cop, so was sitting now right beside me when the same situation happened, this time he shoved ME to the yellow line, but I would go no furthur and was laying on my horn. At least there was some room ahead of the jerk, and I gunned it and pulled in front of him. He missed the bike behind me. Again, when the slow truck was gone, he pulled to the right. and would not pass the cop. the second bike this time had had enough and he pulled next to the SUV and almost knocked on the window at 70 mph. This time he got the drivers attention and got the point across that the SUV was to stay to the right. He finally dropped back and I didn't see him try that again, and he did what he should have done in the first place, pull off and get away from the line of vehicles. Now before you say we should have let him in, understand we had let other vehicles in that signaled their intentions and showed some road manners and respect. I would have been glad to let him in if he had signaled or waited for a break in the line, but he didn't. Yea in retrospect it was a dangerous situation,but for some reason when I was riding on the yellow line with his vehicle about 10" away, it didn't seem that bad. Nobody got hurt, but watch out for a dark blue compact SUV from Florida with a grouchy bald guy chewing on a cigar.
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I don't know what spurred it but a couple of you have hit the donation button today and I want to say publicly that it is MUCH appreciated. Those of you who have been around a while know that I have never pressed anybody to donate to the site but when some of you do from time to time, it sure does help my bottom line. I just want to offer my sincere thanks and appreciate for those of you who do. For those of you who don't, I still very much appreciate you being a part of our club. I know that many of you contribute in different ways.
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My son is transferring to Camp Pendleton Ca. form Camp New River NC. He wants to pick up a used bike to get around on while he is out there. He was looking at an 85 BMW locally but i am wondering if he will have trouble with emission laws once he gets out there. In your opinion, should he try to find one here or wait untill he gets out there? Does anyone have a line on something he can pick up when he gets there? I think he is looking in the $3500.00 price range. (And i'm doing my best to keep him off of a crotch rocket...he has no fear and that scares me!) Thanks.
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Well first we missed the water line, hit that one before! Then we found the old gas line but as luck would have it we hit the good gas line and wooooos yep should have call DIG Rite! Man I hate 20/20 vision. I knew I should have went for a ride instead! All this for a patio...............
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Please can any one tell me why there would be gas runing from the bottom of the motor & front fairing. I had the tank off to change the antifreeze. could the vent line at the top of the tank be causing this to happen? is it also used as a return line?
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I have been using seafoam in my Venture, cars and boat for years, but besides the gas tank, I usually suck a couple oz's into the brake booster vac line and let it sit for 10 min. This gets the valves wet with full strengh seafoam and desoves the carbon build up. Is there any vaccuum line on my venture that will feed all cylinders? Or maybe a differant way of doing this? Thanks -
Well today I relocated the fuel filter to under the seat. Let me tell you, even though I read an old thread on how to do this, it was still a major PITA! I can't see how someone can do it without removing the fuel pump. The screw to hold the rollover valve is almost impossible to replace because of the nut in behind which has to be held in place with fingers. I couldn't do it for anything so I used a cable tie and it worked real good. I spliced the fuel line where the filter was and cut the line under the seat and re-inserted the filter. Now I'm just waiting for my glass filter to arrive from J&P and after that I'll only have to change the filter element. I don't recommend anyone try this if you have large hands or if you're trying to cut back on swearing. I'm sure some of you who have relocated or changed the fuel filter can relate! Anyways, here's to Yamaha for this awful bit of engineering......
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Or maybe I should have said wine collectors....I have some limited edition merlots from 2001 and 2003 that are about ready to sell. They are from the Marilyn Merlot line. Mint condtion bottles and labels and the wine has been properly cared for and rotated to prevent sediment.
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I sold this bike to a friend and he is changing all brake lines and the Front Left Brake Line tied to Rear he can not find and was told that Yamaha no longer makes this brake line. Has anyone found a replacement from some other source.. I mentioned going to a car parts and sizing up.. And never hurts to ask if someone has found one to work. From what he tells me it is close to 2' long.. Joe in NJ -
Try your hand at this fishing game. Read the instructions (below) first. You will see the fish swimming in the lake. Click on the place in the Lake you want the man to cast his line. Remember the fish are swimming and if you click on the fish by the time he casts his line the fish will have moved beyond that point. So click on a spot ahead of the fish where you think the fish will be after the line has been cast. This is for all of you great outdoors men who love to fish, but don't want to drive to the lake...so, good luck, and no lies!!!...and turn up your volume. Note: There is a tackle box nearby, want a different lure? Just click on it! Kenai River Run http://www.peninsulaclarion.com/kenairiverrun/kenairiverrun.html
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any one know , what an '86 sold for , brand new in 1986??? might come in handy , for "dickering " purposes. i have a line on an '86, for sale. haven't seen it, or talked to the owner , yet, but i will! just jt
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Sorry guys but I couldnt let this pass! LOL
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That thread came out of China. He also hijacked another thread. Took care of both of them. When Don comes on line, I can block the sender,,,,,, So, thanks again.
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I am concerned that I have not seen or heard from Mike or Tina since the tail of the dragon ride at Vogel I have PM'D them but have no reply and it has not been read. :confused24:The last time they were on line was Sept 6 or 7. I hope everything is ok and if any one has seen or talked to them can they let me know. Thanks John
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I'm in the middle of a frame change because of a broken frame. While i had the engine out i wanted to check the oil line o-ring. What i found was a good red o-ring. the rest of thr o-rings are of the red type including the pump line. What disturbes me is the red 0-ring i found in the oil pump pick up screen. It seems to be the same size as the one on the oil distribution line that gives trouble (as stated in another thread by RandyA). I am concerned thet i have blown one out somewhere else; but i can't imagine where it could have come from. I have looked in the manual; but i can't find another one that big. maybe i overlooked it??? Do any of you have any ideas? I have attatched picts of the o-ring. One picture is a comparison to the oil pump line and the oil distribution line o-rings. The larger o-ring is from the oil pump line. In addition to the other trash that i dug out of the screen, i found the steel ball th at is in the picture with the broken o-ring. i included a pict of the tip of a ball point pen for size comparrison. Any ideas what the ball may be?? I think i saw anotherone but could not find it. might have been mistaken or droped it. The bike had been hard shifting before i pulled the engine. (Klunky) and i have developed a knock at idle that goes away whith increased engine speed. These are the reason i checked the o-ring.
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As near as I can gather from threads here, I can use a H7616 bulb to replace the poor bulbs that came in my Yamaha passing lamps. Also if I understand correctly, I see some refere to this bulb as a H3 -- but it is not halogen, right? Bottom line -- I can't find the H7616 at JP cycles. Anyone got another source suggestion? Many thnx, DREBBIN
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Ok, I know this has been explained here before. I put a kit in the clutch master cylinder on my 89VR thursday. I couldnt get it to bleed so I tried gravity bleed thursday night.-No such luck. I cannot get the thing to bleed. I filled line by removing bleed screw then filled until no bubbles just air comes out of hole. put screw back. When I pull handle with no line on it and my finger over the hole, I have very little pressure. It actually seems to have more when I release the handle as it gets pretty good suction. Anyways, when I hook it all together and pump the handle, when I hold in handle and open screw, I get about an inch and a half of fluid into bleeder line. Close screw, pumphandle some, open screw, I get about a quarter inch of fluid in line. close bleeder. Release handle and pump again, this time I get nothing. Am I not holding my mouth right here or what.
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The “Butler Mod” Installation Instructions Click on pictures to see larger versions. The components of this device are basically a Galfer steel braided brake line attached to a Speedway Motors compact adjustable proportioning valve (APV). The technical name for this is a “flow control valve” and it will allow you to "fine tune" the rear brake system and thus prevent severe rear brake lockup under moderate-to-heavy braking. If you can replace your OEM rear brake line with a steel braided replacement brake line then you can easily install this line. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image002.jpg So let’s start first by evacuating the brake fluid. Take the lid off of the reservoir and then either use a MityVac at the bleed valve on the caliper to suck out the fluid or attach a clear hose that will empty into a bottle or other container, and pump the brake pedal until the reservoir is empty. Now you can disconnect the brake line from the caliper and the master cylinder. At the caliper, remove the 12mm banjo bolt and use a rag to catch and brake fluid drips. Where the line goes toward the master cylinder, you will see one hose clamp on the side of the swing arm and then another on the underside of the frame next to the AIS valve. Use an 8mm socket to remove these clamps. The hose now goes forward toward the engine behind the horn on the right side of the engine. Remove the horn so you can get to the frame hose holders, where the one to the left is up under the frame swing arm housing. This spring-like holder is not removable where the rubber line grommet can be pushed out away from you. The second line holder is a heavy round rubber grommet that is held by a frame holder that looks like a large wire. You can grab the end of this wire holder with a set of vise grips or pliers and pull the end open to where this circular grommet will slip loose. Then when you put it back in with the new line you can take a flat blade screw driver and press the end closed to tighten up on the grommet. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image004.jpg One quick note on assembly. When you take this line out you will find 3 flat rubber grommets and one thicker circular one (above), all of which can be taken off and used on the new line. Just slit one side and then just peel it off the rubber brake line. The replacement steel line is a smaller diameter, so just cut about ¼” off one end and then place it on the new line and wrap it with a couple of wraps of electrical tape. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image006.jpg Now you are at the frame line cover just under the right foot board. This cover is taken off by removing the two 8mm bolts that attach this cover. You now are at the adapter going into the master cylinder. The short adapter that goes into the master cylinder is a spinning collar and when the line is held by a 14mm open end wrench, you can loosen this collar with another 14mm open end wrench and it’s off. Now when you put the cover back on when you are finished, it works better if you cut the front part of the cover back 1”. You can see from the picture below that you cut it down to about 3/8” from the bottom and then across from the front mounting hole. This cutout allows room for the line coming out of the valve so that there is no pressure on this connection. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image008.jpg Now you are ready to install the new line. For now just work with the line off of the valve and start by threading the line back toward the rear from the horn area at the rear of the engine. Remember there are two flat rubber grommets that go on the swing arm with one flat one that will slip into the spring holder and the round one into the wire holder, where you can press it in to hold the grommet. Once you get the line threaded through to the caliper, attach the 30 degree end to the caliper and tighten the banjo bolt with new copper washers on both sides of the line banjo hole. On the rear line, I usually use the stock steel banjo bolt just because it’s stronger than the brass one that comes with the line. That way you can torque the bolt to 20ft/lbs (the manual says 22ft/lbs which I haven’t been comfortable with). Now attach the two line holders on the swing arm. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image010.jpg Don’t put the line cover on until you are finished bleeding the line and making sure there are no leaks. Next attach the proportioning valve to the master cylinder by threading the spinning collar on the master cylinder to the front adapter with the knob turned down toward the ground. The adapters on the valve side with the copper washers are already tightened. The end that goes into the master cylinder is the adapter with the course 10mm X 1.25 pitch thread. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image012.jpg Just snug this spinning collar to the point that if feels firm. Now thread the end of the line to the output side adapter on the valve and snug it up. Now with a 16mm open end wrench, hold the valve and with a 14mm open end wrench tighten the collar on the master cylinder until it feels tight. Do the same thing to the spinning collar on the line end. The threads on the line collar are a finer thread so do not over tighten. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image014.jpg Now it’s time to bleed the line, but first open the knob on the valve all the way open by turning it counter clockwise (like a faucet). I usually use a MityVac at the caliper bleed valve to get the fluid started to the caliper. Then I use the conventional method of (1) closing the bleeder (2) pumping the pedal a few good times (3) hold the pedal down (4) release the bleeder to let fluid through and then (5) close it. Now go back to (1) and start over until all the air is out of the line and the pedal feels good and firm. Now check the spinning collars at the valve to see if any fluid is seeping at the connections. If so, snug them up just a bit more being careful not to strip a thread. Wipe the fluid that has seeped and then pump the pedal hard and let it sit for a few minutes to see if it is still seeping. Once you are assured there are no leaks, attach the line cover. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image016.jpg Now turn the knob clockwise until it stops. At this point the valve acts like a shutoff valve, so turn the knob back out two turns. You can see the color rings under the knob, which indicate how many turns you have made. If you see 2 colored rings, then the knob is two turns out. This is only a starting point because from here you need to take the bike for a ride on a good concrete surfaced street to test the braking. It’s best to use a street with not much traffic on it Get up to say 40mph or more and gently apply the brakes pressing down more and more until (1) the bike comes close to stopping or (2) the rear wheel locks up. If it locks up, release it quickly. The latter condition means that you need to close the valve more by turning it clockwise. Adjust the valve to the point that you feel comfortable with the amount of braking resulting from how far you have to push down on the pedal. When it is right, you should be able to come to a complete controlled stop at 30-40mph with just the rear pedal. Of course remember that it’s very important to use both brakes when stopping, so in addition to the rear brake, be sure to apply an ample amount of front brake to help slow the bike down the most. But I have found that just as you are coming to a complete stop, release the front and use only the rear brake to come to that complete stop. Sometimes when you use the front brake at a complete stop, it may off balance the bike as you are putting your foot down. The rear brake now becomes more settling and comfortable at stops. Once you are comfortable with the feel, it’s time to lock the knob down. I first did this with a piece of safety wire which worked well but required a small hole be drilled through the knob. But since I started working with this valve, I have found the product information on this valve from the manufacturer (Deltrol Fluid Products) where it described a set screw in the side of the knob that could be used to lock the knob in place. This set screw can be turned in with either a 1.5mm or 1/16” hex allen wrench and will keep the knob from backing off. However, I still have drilled a small hole in the knob and have included a piece of safety wire as a secondary safety measure to make sure this knob stays where you have set it. http://www.venturerider.org/butlermod/image018.jpg If you have any questions concerning this installation, you can reach me by either e-mail or phone: Rick_Butler@verizon.net 972-442-9840 Home 214-926-3905 Cell
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