Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'fairing'.
-
Hey Squidley I don't know if you won any of the last parts on ebay but there is another inner fairing on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-00-Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star-1300-Front-Fairing_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem58867e6c82QQitemZ380213554306QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories and other parts off a 2000. Not sure of the condition.
-
I thought I would post it here first. Parting out an '86 VR 1300. I have almost all the plastic. Some needs to be repaired. Have everything for a complete rebuild. Black and gold. Both saddle bags, bottoms and lids, trunk, purple color from '89 VR. All front fairing parts plus vents. Windshield stock height and in good condition. All braces for fairing. Let me know by PM and I will answer all with what I have. Chuckles
-
Here is a shortcut to check the amount of grease in your steering head bearings. The problem here is that the service interval for re-greasing the steering head bearings is every 16,000 miles, but on the RSV, the amount of work it takes (and therefore, MONEY it takes) to access these bearings is HUGE! And it gets exponentially worse if someone has added a bunch of accessories and new wiring inside the fairing. The entire fairing, both outer shell and inner shell, must be removed before the top triple tree can be removed to access the bearing lock nuts. And to remove the inner fairing, you have to totally disconnect every single wire, plug and component inside the fairing! In fact, this whole process is supposedly required to simply ADJUST the steering head bearings, but thankfully we have documented a quick and easy shortcut to sneak underneath and adjust them without removing a single part. But back to the problem at hand - it is a full day's work to properly strip everything to drop the forks out of the steering head and inspect/de-grease the bearings. But I think I have found a relatively easy way to at least check the top bearing without going through the entire process. After splitting the fairing, the inner fairing can be unbolted by simply removing two nuts behind the top of the headlight and two socket-head bolts, one on either side of the bottom of the headlight. Once these are removed the fairing can be pulled several inches forward without disconnecting any of the wires, enough to fully access the top triple tree. With someone to hold the fairing, you could remove the triple tree and the top bearing without much more effort. Certainly the top bearing can be inspected and greased in this way, and if it looks like the bearings really need to be serviced, you could then just put the inner fairing back on the two studs and proceed to disconnect all the stuff needed to properly remove the forks. It seems possible that with enough care (and probably three people), one might even lower the forks enough in the steering head to access and grease the lower bearing this way. I think I am ready to try and make a video of this process if I can find a couple of folks willing to spend a day helping me through it. Goose
-
Someone on ebay has a front fairing with speedo and radio and I am assuming maybe the inner fairing (just a guess but since it has the speedo) anyway you could ask. 2+ days left and the bid is $17 and change. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Complete-fairing-for-Yamaha-Royal-Star-Venture-Radio_W0QQitemZ120532559304QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c104ce5c8
-
Hello Venturers! In the moment it is just science fiction. But i am thinking about new made carbon or glass fiber fairing parts for my Venture. With stronger mounting holes than the original. Especially the two large shells i mean. I have asked a specialist in our company if he could do this for me. But for only one he is not willing to spend his free time shaping a big mold etc. So, if anyone of you is seriously interested in buying two shells, let me know. And i will ask again what price/each would motivate him to work. So feel free to say "i would take a pair for less than ?$US incl. shipping". And if we get some together i will ask again. Holgi -
Every winter, I get PMS (Parked Motorcycle Syndrome) bad, and end up buying bike stuff to try to satisfy the emptiness. So far this winter, I've bought: carb synchronizers (after endless questions here) risers and longer bolts all the hardware for the riser adapter doohickeys that hold the rubber fairing dampers in place a relay for my passing lights that I found wasn't installed a fuse block, since I'm getting too many wires coming off of the battery (Battery Tender, Stebel, passing lights, and I'm thinking about Gerbings gloves) vacuum brake bleeder (bought to synchronize the synchronizers, but will come in handy for brake bleeding, also) vacuum adapters and hose (also to synchronize the synchronizers) digital tach digital caliper (my analog caliper was fine until I saw the price of the digital unit on sale) 1" chrome 3-piece clamps and 1/8" x 1" aluminum stock for doing the crash bar reinforcement neck gaiter for colder weather bottom of a rollaway tool chest, to have near the bike when doing work 50mm bolts for the passing lights, to eliminate having them rest on the fender when splitting the fairing I've had the RSV on the Carbon One stand since around Thanksgiving. I think I need to take it down and go out for a ride the next time the sun comes out. I need a fix. This is nuts.
-
Ok for you electrical guys I have added a fuse block under my seat and I have a gps and sat radio on a ram mount on the resv mount and had run the cig plug power cord inside the fairing where I pulled the cig port out of the fairing and put a splitter in it. Now I have replaced the outlet in the fairing and am wondering if i can pull a power line from the block for it? how would i wire it together ? recommendations on fuse size? thanks guys
-
Not sure if this has been covered before, but I was adding a 3 female aux splitter last night so I had to split the fairing. I don't do it that often, but often enough to were I tried to figure out a solution to not have to remove the lightbar anymore. This is what I was able to come up with. Not sure if you can get any longer bolts in there. In my vast collection of bolts and spacers, I found 1 3/4" bolts and 1 1/4" spacer. This leaves 1/2" of thread sticking out. This is also how much thread that is sticking out from the stock bolt and spacer. So this moves the lightbar out and still looks good IMO. Only untested thing is to split the fairing again to see if I can remove the fairing w/out unbolting the light bar.
-
Ok guys heres my problem, i am adding a highway blaster horn I picked up at autozone for 20 bucks (139db) i am mounting it in the front fairing. i have pulled a 12g 30 amp fused line from the battery to the fairing and i know it runs in to 30 on the relay, 87 will run to the horn it self i am running from the handle bar switch wire to 86 on the relay now my question whats running to 85 i know probably simple answer but basic backyard mechanic here lolol giving it my best thanks for any help
-
I had a pair of these on my Vstar 650. Lots of open places to mount them, and they were LOUD at 109 Db. Reasonably priced and the pair only draws 6 amps. I'm thinking about trying to install a pair in the passing lamp light bar area or near the air deflectors on the forks where they would be out in the open and not muffled by a fairing or cowling. It may take fabricating some different mounting brackets, but it looks like it's doable. Comments? http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/AFI-10001/ Oops, tried to insert a pic but it didn't work. :Venture:http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/AFI-10001/graphics/00000001/AFI-10001_med.jpg
-
The LED tail light should have been a quick install, but somewhere in my bikes past someone over tightened the screws for the lens and pulled two of the bosses out of the lens and the third one was cracked. Nothing really holding the lens on except the sticky gasket. So, get out the trusty epoxy and glue the bosses back in. After that dried, install the Radianz board. Job one finished. Now for the Stebel horn. Installed the relay on one of the bolts under the coolant recovery bottle. Removed the old right side horn and connected the old horn wires to the relay. Press the horn button to check the relay and it clicked as advertised. The factory horn behind the left fairing "clunked" meekly. Hum??? Light in my head came on, wonder if the horn I took off the right side of the bike will fit in behind the fairing? WRONG, they are completely different, but when I hooked up the "fairing horn" directly to the battery, it sounded off perfectly! Soooo, why not put it back in place and power it from the new Stebel relay????? Now all I need to do is fish a 14Ga wire under the tank. Done! Put a short 14Ga ground wire to one of the horn mounting bolts, pushed the horn button, relay clicks and the puny little horn is not so puny anymore! Now make up a "Y" connector and hook it up the the relay. Mount the Stebel air horn using the shiny Carbon_one bracket, hook it all up, push the horn button and DEY-YUM it is LOUD!!! The combination of the two horns will come close to waking the dead!!! :banana: -
Does any have a good way to mount a video camera that won't shake? I've mounted to handle bars and to fairing but can't get it smooth enough to watch.
-
Anyone here bidding on this? looks like a good buy... currently at $32.25 http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260521510456&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
-
Two questions: One! after riding through a downpour at night my headlight quit. I replaced the fuse and saw a "flash" when I turned the ignition on. Headlight still worked on low beam but high beam is dim and brings on the headlight warning light and the CM blinks, the fuse is fine. Could this just be the bulb being bad (it looks OK)? Two! Trying to find a possible bad contact for the above I pulled the headlight, apparently the PO had a "accesory" hooked into a tan #10 wire under the panel. the accesory wire wasn't capped or taped of when he cut it, and it hit the headlight frame. Nothing works!!, All fuses in the fuse panel are OK, I know there should be some other fuse somewhere, but I can't find it. Do I need to pull the entire fairing? Do I need to look for something else? Oh, that was bright! Found that one on top of the battery! For some reason I thought it was down under the fairing! so that answers that, next question though is: Where do I get a new one??
-
I lowered the front end of my RSV yesterday. It took 7 hours, and I ended up calling a friend over half way through the project, since there were too many parts to hold and support and line up. According to the post in VR tech, it should take 1 person 2 hours. Is there a secret I'm missing? My biggest issue was dealing with all of the unbolted, but still attached, parts at once. Specifically, the rear part of the front fairing, the handlebars, and the passing lights. And more specifically, trying not to let all the parts get scratched and gouged while unattached. They were all flopping around and pulling on the cables. I finally unwired and removed the passing lights, and taped large car wash sponges to the sides of the handlebars. I already had towels over the gas tank and front fender, and rags around sharp parts, like the handlebar clamps and the studs for the 12mm bolts for the fairing. How do you support the rear part of the front fairing while it's unbolted?? and what about the handlebars? Another issue was the passing lights. I loosened the bolts almost all the way, and still couldn't clear the lights when splitting the fairing, so I ended up having to remove them, and balance them on the front fender. A bit later in the process, I got frustrated parts juggling and finally just unwired and removed them completely. Is that what's normally done? :|
-
Just had my inner and outer fairing replaced.. for the usual culprits. Dealer did an outstanding job, switched over light sensor and 2 switches(no extra charge). Also installed a new Saddlemen Road Sofa seat.... So far it took care of my tailbone pain.. although I seem to be feeling some OTHER pressure points settin in... maybe the "break in" period will fix that!!!!! Wish me luck!!!!
-
I must have had a worse day...just cannot remember it now. As I was winching the 87 VR up on the Volvo semi for the trip to the Rio Grande Valley for the winter I slipped on the ramp and lost my balance which resulted in a drop test from about 2.5 feet. It landed on the right handlebar which bent severely and main fairing which cracked in several places. I guess my stupidity will cost me 5$? Not to mention much more than that in plastic repairs. Does the stupid fund accept Paypal? I have a spare handlebar but need another right fairing and the parts that hold the speaker and a right front turn signal. I'll be monitoring ebay but wondered if any here had spares for sale. Thanks. Larry -
Guess they made different fairings for the '04 '04 Venture Fairing
-
My '83 Venture is running bad....really bad. It had sat for 3 weeks. I got it out one day to ride, and it went to missing under load. It starts and idles fine. I checked out the fuel system...it's good. I replaced the spark plugs I replaced the fuel filter. Plug wires and caps check good. cleaned connectors to stator, regulator and TCI. When I ride it, it tries to go...has full power for a few secs, then sputters,and falls on its' nose. Under load, it just jerks back and forth. Backfires out the right side exhaust sometimes too. Like I said, it starts and idles fine...it's only under load. It looks like I have to remove my fairing to remove the TCI/coil assembly...is this correct? I had removed the airbox and battery box, and it seems the fairing has to come off next. Help!!
-
I was told that I should have 2 outlets on my 03 RSV I see the one in the inner fairing where is the second one? Or is there another one? Thanks
-
Hello all and as promised, I have returned with more pics of the 'finished' product. I'm pretty darn happy with the way she turned out. The paint looks really good and the final mounts are working out well too. And most importantly...I'm still well under budget: Fairing (ebay) $300+$45 shipping Aluminum Angle-Iron $35 (had to buy 8ft) Misc nuts and bolts $10 Paint $125 + two 12"Subs - decided to go with one color to keep things simple. As before...so what do ya all think (and please be gentle) Sorry about all the picture, thought more was better in this case...And, the "full size" links are generally 1.5meg images. Thanks for looking Ron Original Thread #30638 http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_007.jpg Full Size http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_009.jpg Full Size http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_010.jpg Full Size http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_011.jpg FullSize http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_012.jpg Full Size http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_013.jpg Gee, where's Waldo? Full Size http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_014.jpg Full size http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_015.jpg Full Size http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/Batwing20090328/Small/20090328_017.jpg Full Size
-
kuryakyn airmaster fairing. any one here put one of these on there bike. i want to. but i want to know if it installs ok. thanks matt -
This morning when I turned on the key on my "new" '99 RSV, the factory stock horn started blowing. There was also a horn sound :confused24:coming from around the left lower fairing. Turned off the key and the horn(s) silenced. I ended up pushing the plug off the stock horn on the lower right side. Now when when I push the horn button there is a pathetic beep from the lower left fairing. It has progressed to the point there is just a click when I push the button. When I got home, after work,I took that lower fairing off and found a cylindrical "thing" covered by a rubber sleeve. It is the source of the pathetic sound when I push the horn button. There is also a (throttle type )cable running into one end of it. Is this a second horn? Before calling it an afternoon, I hooked the right side horn back up. Now it works properly:scratchchin:. I think the gremlins have realized there is no bell on this bike YET!
-
I am sure there are a few out there. Who has removed the plastichrome accents off their fairing? Preferably blue 2007. Please post picture(s) if you have. I am thinking about taking mine off, but would like to see how it looks first. Thanks
-
I'm going out on a limb here. I've seen a couple guys talk about changing the body style of their Gen 1 and get fried so I am going to set this up a little bit. I am in the process of painting all of my fairings. Anyone who has taken off all the fairings knows that 25 year old ABS is "band-aided" together. I am not a mechanical genious, but I think that the ABS fairings are one of the weak links to these machines lasting a lot more years. You can ABS patch and glue as much as you want, but you are still patching 25 year old ABS. I would love to see a thread where some people explore alternative fairing systems for the Gen 1's. For some of you entrepreneurs, I think there could be a little business for a front fairing and a heat sheild for the sides covering up the wire with some leather bags for example. With that, I'll jump off. Be gentle.
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg){kind=avatar}
.thumb.jpg.ce61bc94739efc1059157f86c7216f78.jpg)
