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Showing results for tags 'exhaust'.
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i just ordered bub exhaust for my venture any one have any experience
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Hello, I recently acquired a 1996 Royal Star Trike. The exhaust needs replaces and as I have found out, it is a rare animal and parts are difficult to find. Can anybody here point me in a direction? I have done all the searching I know how to do and keep coming up with nothing. Also, for a V4 it sure seems to lack a lot of power. Motor is running well, just seems to be missing something comparing to the inline 4 cylinder I was used to. Thank you, Jim -
exhaust leak: Want cheap fix
Auld posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I've got an exhaust leak right out of the rear cylinder on the right side. Took off the clamp and saw the metal ring somewhat rusted, so it doesn't fit tightly any more. I would like to fix this without taking the whole bike apart. Someone suggested JB Weld. I've used it before in different applications, but not in such a hi-temp spot. Will it work where the exhaust is coming through at its hottest? Is there some kind of RTV caulk that will stand these temps? -
Does anyone know of a 4 into 4 exhaust that is made for the 05-09 RSTD, or has anyone seen any custom made for them? -
Are the Rk exhausts that much better sounding that they are worth putting on. I don't want them loud but a little louder than the stock exhaust.
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Hello everyone! Our bike did not pass the safety test because of an exhaust leak... I took it apart, it was leaking BIG at the rear cylinders which I fixed with new seals and a good cleanup. Then it was leaking at the 6 joints around the collector box... I tried the copper sleeves recommended on VR.org but couldn't get it to fit right so I went to our local Yammy dealer and bought the six OEM seals. It all fit so well together, but still leaks at the two joints at the front and the two heading out to the tail pipes. GRRRRRRRR I can't plate it and ride it if it ain't passed safety. How can I seal these joints if a new seal isn't doing it? I've wire brushed the whole collector box and it looks real good. No leaks, no cracks, no black marks, I even painted it silver with high-heat paint so I could see if and where it's leaking... the box is not leaking. But the joints, with new seals is still leaking. HELP, please, please, please.
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I have a 98 Royal Star that I purchased basically in pieces. I have put it all together myself and had to re jet the carbs because I could not find a replacement exhaust for the 4 into 4 factory pieces and they were not able to be reused because the previous owner had tried to do some "custom" welding which made them useless. Fast forward a year and I have not only purchased the Venture 4 into 2 exhaust but also all of the factory hangers and brackets and most recently, factory hard saddlebags. I had issues with the bike pissing gas out of the right bank of carbs overflow tube, so I tore them down as far as I could and cleaned everything. I then took it to a mechanic that synced them for me ( I feel as if he overcharged a bit at $90 to do it) and the bike has been running really well. After a long ride last weekend, I decided that the BUB's that came with the Venture exhaust was rather loud and I had some Harley Touring pipes laying around and I have seen a great deal of guys here using them, so my dumb ass slaps them on and I take a ride. On the way back I smell gas and look down to see gas POURING out of the drain tube all over the motor. I quickly get back to the house and wipe everything down and figure maybe the Harley pipes in some way were putting to much back pressure on the carbs and reinstall the BUB's. No such luck, now the bike is still pissing gas at an alarming rate and also smoking and has the smell of oil in the exhaust. At this point I have invested so much time, energy, and MONEY I just want to take it to someone and have it fixed. Or maybe just cut my loses and sell the damn thing! I really like the bike when it is running properly. I know that it doesn't have the power of the newer versions, but it seems to go down the road just fine. I do not want to spend some ungodly amount to get this fixed however, as I could have purchased a great running newer bike at this point, so I am reluctant to drop loads of cash on this deal. Yamaha dealer that is local says that they will start at $500 and go from there. The independent that did the sync will prob be the same. Any ideas? Maybe just buy a newer 32mm and do a swap? Am I missing something that it could be? I hate to say it, but my Road King was way more dependable. In the three years I owned it I never did anything but oil and tires for 33K (sold it with 56K) I was hoping that this bike would even be better, but it looks like that will never be the case. I only have 30k on the ODO right now on the Royal Star and the way its going I don't think it will make it to 50k!!
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Hello All, I’m looking for instructions for removing and inspecting the exhaust on an 05 RSTD. After installing a set of BUB slip-ons, my popping is more accentuated and I want to inspect the pipes for leaks and cracks. I have searched our site for a breakdown document but no luck. Does the chrome come off separately from the pipes or as a unit? Are there gaskets to replace once the pipes are removed? I am assuming the pipes mount to a flange that insets into the head? Thanks in advance. -
Looks like painted to make look pretty. Still looks like it might be a good one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XVZ-XVZ12-XVZ13-Venture-1200-1300-Exhaust-Collector-Chamber-1983-1993-US-/400287635350?hash=item5d33009796&item=400287635350&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
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the install of a Marks collector also with Jardine slipons. It arrived yesterday and I have her buffed out fairly well; just picked up the new exhaust gaskets from Stadium Yamaha in Irving. Have to stop by the Harley dealer on the way home to pick up some nice chrome exhaust clamps since the connections will now be visible. Hope everything lines up well. I will let everyone know how things go when this job is complete.
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Okay, on my '84 Venture the last owner had a mess of an exhaust that could not allow the centerstand to be put back on because he wanted it to be "tougher" with louder sound. Blagh to that. So I have a parts bike with the original exhaust coming from a 1300, mine is 1200, I have read they are the same. The real problem is getting it off the '83 1300. I have it unbolted from the front and from the rear, but I am missing something as it seems to be suspended in the middle. I can rock it back and forth. So what am I missing that I can't see? With my luck it is something simple, I hope. Steve
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My Mark's exhaust collector is here. Hopefully a little bit more horsepower in it. Nice construction, stainless steel. Needs some polishing. Good communication from Mark, a little delay in getting it due to his workload. He made it and sent it to me, before he asked for payment. His email address is markmcpipe@gmail.com Collector was $321.49 and $14.90 shipping. Gary -
Just read interesting article about oxygen sensors. Did not know about rear access to ambient air, and need to keep the 'normal' gunk off the sensor. Automotive Trivia http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/triviaPlate2.jpg The core of a typical oxygen sensor is a zirconium dioxide (zirconia) ceramic. Oxygen ions flow freely through this ceramic after it is heated to 600 deg. F (316 C). What else is zirconium dioxide used for? A. imitation diamonds B. thermal barrier coatings for diesel engine parts C. foundation for dental crowns D. all of the above Answer below http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/bar.gif The Other End of the Oxygen Sensor http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/RAmech.gif Oxygen sensors thread into the exhaust system where they obviously face extreme heat and harsh exhaust gases. Oxygen sensors fail when the bulb inside the exhaust pipe is exposed to lead, silicone, antifreeze, engine oil and other contaminants. Many people are not aware of the role that the other end of the oxygen sensor plays. Surprisingly, the visible end of the sensor with the wire pigtail is just as important and sensitive to contamination as the end slugging it out in the exhaust pipe. Nearly all oxygen sensors are designed to measure the difference between the oxygen level in the exhaust with the oxygen level in the outside air. The sensor generates a voltage based on the difference in oxygen levels that the engine computer uses to continuously adjust the fuel mixture, etc. The outside air the oxygen sensor needs for its comparison enters the sensor at the end with the wire pigtail. Depending on the sensor design, the air might enter through a dedicated hole or through the wires. http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/2212TomStory.jpg The oxygen sensor ambient air inlet is likely to be protected by silicone boots, porous PTFE (Teflon) or some other means. A routine splash of water is not likely to hurt an oxygen sensor, but leaking chemicals (engine oil, power steering fluid, etc.) can clog or enter the oxygen sensor air inlet and damage the sensor. Efforts to “protect” oxygen sensors by spraying them with lubricant, covering them with insulation, etc. can backfire if the sensor’s air inlet is blocked or contaminated. Oxygen sensor installation instructions emphasize that the entire sensor, including the wiring harness, is part of an integrated system. Routing and connecting the wires is as important as carefully threading the sensor into the warm exhaust pipe. I just read installation instructions for a Bosch oxygen sensor that had just two steps covering removing the old sensor and screwing the new sensor into the exhaust port. The instructions had ten steps covering the connection and routing of the oxygen sensor’s four wires. The oxygen sensor bulb buried in the exhaust pipe is on its own, but you can maintain the other end by making sure the wiring harness is never torn, rerouted or covered with goop. Tom Taylor, RockAuto.com
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Posting this simply as a problem solved. Others will have this issue and hopefully they will find this thread in a search, and it might help. 1st Gen VRs sometimes suffer from exhaust rattles. The noise is internal and frequently caused by a deteriorating baffle in the collector. Ever since I have had this bike it has suffered from a rattle which isn't evident in a cold engine, but soon makes its presence felt as the bike warms up. At best it is annoying, but now it is fixed. Sometime ago I had the exhaust off to have the collector repaired. It needed new stubs making and welding on and this was done. At the same time I cut open the collector to fix the baffle. To my surprise it was undamaged, so the hole was simply closed up again. More recently I have had an issue with cylinder #2 firing when it wanted to. This too is fixed. New Plugs, Wires and Caps took care of it. I still had the noise and something else unusual. The front downpipe on the right was heating up much faster than the one on the left (#2). That wasn't right. Cylinder #2 was firing correctly so it had to be another issue. Then I realised that those downpipes are "double-walled". What if there was a break internally. Here is what I found: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0277.jpg And another view of same: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0279.jpg Note the break that extends almost the whole way around the internal pipe. Newish downpipe from eBay demonstrated two differences .... Firstly, it had no break, so a good sign Also, the new pipe had a thin but unbroken layer of carbon completely coating the inside. This is normal. As you can see from the pictures the carbon layer is broken, and feathers towards the crack. There was some serious upset in the gas-flow in this pipe, and could be the equivalent of an exhaust hole causing lean condition and an idle that could be reluctant to fall to normal when the motor was very hot. So ... All bolted up, engine running quietly and smoothly, and no rattles. Hope this helps. -
Using an automotive floor jack (and a block of wood) what is the best location to lift the bike. (for example to change fork bearings) I don't see clear access to the frame & I don't want to crush the exhaust. Can I use the engine pan? I will eventually get a M/C Jack Sorry for all the questions but I don't find any in the search & I figure thre will be something for future VentureRiders!
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...I'm all wet. I need some recommendations on rain gear. I've got a pair of Frogg Toggs, but they're too bulky and not heat resistant. They're great as far as keeping the rain and road mist off my shins, but the right leg has too much extra material that winds up resting on the exhaust. It's already got a hole in it behind the right knee, and it left a tarnish on my pipe (which I can fix.) I'm basically looking for rain gear that's not baggy. Even if it's something of a heat resistant rubber pant suit that's loose enough to be easy going over the top of my jeans and thermals. Btw, as GAWildKat just took the liberty of reminding me, I'm not on a Venture yet. I'm on a Suzuki Volusia 800, and the exhaust runs down the right side of the bike, just below my knee.
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Just wondering if anyone has had problems mounting these air horns so close to the exhaust....long term? It is much larger than a stock one.
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I ran across a guy while looking for exhaust help on my Roadglide. I had a unique setup and had a baffle question. Anyway this guy helped me out in a big way. While talking I mentioned that I had a Rstd and that the Yammie guys are always looking for slip ons of one sort or another. I asked him if he could design a baffle set that would fit the stock mufflers. He said he thought he could, and of course he wondered how much interest there would be. I figured that there may be quite a bit. So I thought I'd throw this out there to see if there is any interest. Rather than give his name out or have a business come on here and solicit, I figured this would be the best way to find out. Might be a help to the Yammie in the aftermarket business.....
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I have an 07 RSTD with 21k and since I have owned it only 6 weeks I don't have a lot of info about what was done by the prior owner (original). So that being said I believe it to be stock, I know the exhaust is, I'm experiencing some slight decel popping. Is this a tuning issue that is a warranty item or is it normal?
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The following description of my exhaust pipe problem encountered during the first week of our recent five week trip and my emergency repair was originally posted in my thread "Our Venture West". It has been over 10,000 km since I did this emergency fix and it has worked so well and without any exhaust leak that I don't plan on any further repair. While traveling along the Yellowhead Trail through Saskatchewan on our recent trip west, my exhaust noise got louder and still louder again after part of the chrome heat shield cover to the exhaust pipe broke away. The exhaust pipe from the collector had broken loose from the muffler and the muffler was left hanging by one bolt with no support. The end of the exhaust pipe was rusted and broken away so badly that it couldn't be reconnected to the muffler. Truly an "Oh Sh--" moment that could have ruined our trip west. The first picture shows the exhaust pipe after I removed the muffler. I got lucky as the next town had a Canadian Tire Store (open on Sunday) where I bought an exhaust pipe coupler designed to reduce pipe size and some aluminum duct tape. After removing the original clamp at the mouth of the muffler and wrapping both the front few inches of the muffler and the last few inches of the exhaust pipe with the aluminum duct tape for a tight fit, I slid the coupler over the muffler and the exhaust pipe and bolted my muffler back in place. To my surprise, there is no exhaust leak and I think the joint is as strong as original. I would bet that mine isn't the only first gen with a wore out exhaust pipe under the chrome cover. Attached Thumbnails
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I'm sure this has been covered, but I thought it bears repeating. My starter cranked very weak. All connections were great and little loss through the solenoid. Skydoc_17 suggested that I install a VMAX starter (4 brush vs. 2 brush), which he sold me at discount (thanks). This Totally solved my problem-period! I read a tutorial somewhere that detailed removing exhaust pipes (it's not that involved and you don't need to disconnect the exhaust)! You DO need to remove the radiator and lower hoses. The bypass tube leading from the thermostat housing and the housing itself (remove the plastic elbow from the water pump and take the entire assembly out). Use new O-rings for everything and use some vasoline to lube them (or something similar). I have a first Gen and I needed to remove the air dam and it was easier with the right side crash bar removed. I spent about 3 hours, but I changed the thermostat and did some other things as well. I should have taken pictures, but that would have cut into my drinking time!
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Good morning everyone. I've made a couple of changes to my 06 RSTD. I installed a set of RK exhaust that are drilled out on both ends (see through) and a set of K&N filters. After the installation of RK exhaust I started experiencing popping on decel when going from 4th down to 3rd and 3rd down to 2nd. After I installed the filters the exhaust seems a bit louder (the sound is perfect - not too loud but it sounds really nice on accelleration) and the popping does too. So, now that I've made those enhancements I want to rejet with bigger jets. My questions are: 1. Where and what jets should I buy? 2. Would rejetting take care of my popping issue? 3. Is there a step-by-step somewhere so I can do the install myself or would I be better off to take it to my Stealer considering my mechanical abilities are less that perfect? I've already stuck more money into the bike than I wanted too this year so any do-it-myself work would be acceptable. I just don't know if replacing the jets is something I should tackle. Thoughts, feelings, comments everyone? Thanks, Les
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I was just wondering if anyone knows what the inside of the factory exhaust looks like. My 84 still has the factory exhaust on it. It has a few patches welded on it, and a few more pin holes. If feasable, I was wondering if one could cut it open, and put a new cover on it (just to keep it looking original)..........ok, just to cheap to go buy another one. Anyone have any ideas. CBMMA
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I'm interested in finding a set of Road King exhaust pipes for my 06 RSTD. Does anyone know of anyone or have any they might be interested in parting with? I think I need a bracket too, but I'm not sure which or where to get one. My understanding is that Road King exhausts will give me a bit of sound without putting my wallet in too much jeopordy so I'd like to give them a shot. As long as my ears won't be ringing after an hour long ride, I'd be OK. Based on what I've read on around here, quite a few folks like them and it doesn't sound like they will have any type of negative impact on the performance of my bike. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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Been doing some research. It appears as though a vmax exhaust setup (prior to 2007) "should" fit into a venture royale, at least the headers should bolt up, since they used the venture royale engine in the vmax. It looks as though the exhaust is obviously more up swept then the venture royale 1300 exhaust. Has anybody ever attempted this feat.? They have some really nice vmax exhausts. Even if one were to buy vmax headers the number of aftermarket slip ons is way better than the venture royale's (a.k.a. NONE).
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