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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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http://bozardford.com/images/spacer.gif We had a chance to get a great deal on this car because my son-in-law shoots this ford dealers commercials. We just couldnt refuse and they gave me a great price on our sebring convertible to boot. Its a 2007 Mustang GT Deluxe....300 HP V8, shaker sound system, full leather interior, 5 speed automatic. Took it for a test drive on I-95 in St Augustine. Hit 100 mph with no effort. Jean deserves this car after putting up with me all these years. But, I do get to drive it now and then.......:smile5: http://cdnedge.vinsolutions.com/AP/3026-2-10257046-64052278-0-0/64052278.jpg
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Well, I found my oil leak. It's leaking right at the boot where the drive shaft and u-joint meet. I need to reseal the output shaft. I was looking at the parts diagram for the middle drive gear and I can't seem to find which seals I need. I see the crush washer and spacer, do they consider that the shaft gasket? -
Skydoc_17: I just had Double Hernia Surgery last week, so I don't know for sure if I can ride the 87'VR over, but my brother has offered to drive me over. Take care of yourself Earl
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What would I gain by changing my final drive out in my 2008 RSTD to a V-Max final drive? Also what year would I have to get to do this and is it a straight out change bolt for bolt? Joe and
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From my Nortons, to BMWer to HD I am hooked on the Royal Star engines. Thanks to all who helped me navigate the transition from my Road King to a roaring 4 cyl Yamaha. Three weeks ago I passed on the 03 Venture after trying a RSTD at the last minute mainly because of a heavy feeling on the Venture's steering. I was ready to lay the cash down on the Venture until the RSTD ride. Guess I wasn't used to the baggers and I ride mainly solo. Last week I located a 05 RSTD in CA that was a screamer with Krome Werks pipes, Kurykyn highway pegs, studde tank bra with pouch Mustang seats with driver back rest and OH YEA for the solo ride a studded single Ultimate seat with a carriage rack. I bought a Kuryakn Grantailgater I adore the many configuration the RSDT affords and above all love the high rpm this machine screams at. I don't have to wait till the cow come home like my V-Twins to get warmed and ready. Fourth gear really is an over drive and 5th a luxury. As for the chrips easily handled with rpm and never an issue other than it reminds you that you are lugging your machine. It's how you drive it. I did a 150 mile in the snow capped Sierras and this RSTD handle, shifted and responded like a German designed machine without the ugliness and it turned some serious uphill in ant hills. Hope there is room here for the RSTD machine Normax:cool10:
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Well, I installed a new shock on the back of my 1st gen. That went well. I also decided to grease the splines on the drive shaft while I was there, now low and behold I have an oil leak at the rubber boot which according to the parts diagram looks like the drive shaft seal right before the u-joint. Anybody have any insight on the replacement of that seal? Also, my twinkie has started leaking. I'm sure a lot of curse words (Even some I may have to make up) will be used. I also have a little leak by the clutch slave cylinder or stator cover, not 100% sure yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I was geting ready to swap out the final drive on my 88 with a drive from a 2nd gen when I noticed that I could move the pinion from side to side with just my hand. Is there a way to take up the slop in the pinion or will the unit have to be taken apart and reshimed. Sure dont want to do all that work still have the noise still. Thanks.
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Friends Bought an 84 700 ltd Kaw. Nice bike good size "town bike". It would not start after stopping by for a visit. Ending up taking him home after giving up on jumping it off going down the drive way. well, decide to give a once over and see one exhaust port alot hotter then the others and say let me check the carbs later. Open the carbs and they are clean as can be. but when I flip them over to look at the float level before dissassembly realize one float is upside down. Call it a night and go home and this morning it pops in my head 3 were upside down and one right. Explains why it ran so long without the tank on. Any one every find stuff like this in their lives? But other question is when attemting to jump it off going down the drive way and popping the clutch it just dragged to a halt. So I got on for the next little hill and popped when in 2nd then all the way to 5th gear and it just drug to a halt with a catch and motor turning at the very end. I have not rode it and he is a little new to this and Im not sure how the clutch is. It is a shaft drive bike and all feels good. Anyone ever heard of this dragging to a halt? and Im not talking about the rear tire but some in the bike. Also after siitng a few minutes it fires right up. Never was hydro locked just flooded with a weak battery. Thanks all
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Has anyone ever seen where someone has changed a RSV trans to chain drive? I think the v4 would make a cool engine for a project bike.
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i looked at one of these today in lexington ky,never thought i'd like them but i was really surprised it very well made tho the seating is different then the rsv i think after getting use to the angle it might be more comfortable,going back for a test drive the firsd the roads are dry, might make a good stable mate for the rsv. has anyone else tried these out:Venture:
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Today during my ongoing 91 VR restoration project, after forks, electrical, coils, carbs., the rear end was my target and everything was peachy until I took out my rear wheel. Surprise, a bunch of metal shavings fell out of the interior of drive, after a moment of panic(thinking of a shot drive), I started to look and clean, the dried out grease and more debris, but I turned my attention to my wheel bearing and got a handful of needles and more shavings. I then took a good look at the spines because they crunched the needles to shavings. After a good cleaning the drive splines seems ok, I guess? Any comments or warnings would be appreciated. Mike -
Anyone else following the Barrett jackson collector car auction now? 1954 mecedes gullwing just went for $2 000 000. Where do people get that kind of money for a car that you should not drive and put in a climate controllled atmosphere? Not from being a Ford technician let me tell you.
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Hi All, I found this list on an other forum and thought I would pass it on. I'm sure everybody has their own specific items they take. TRIP SUPPLIES 1. Rain gear 2. Standard Tool kit that comes with the bike 3. Tire plug kit with new plugs/snakes purchased periodically (to avoid dry rot) 4. Several CO2 cartridges (the size used in paint ball games) and a CO2 inflator 5. A can of slime under pressure 6. A sharp knife (actually from the ROK that we got at an AVA Rally) 7. Fuses (assorted amp) 8. Bottle of water 9. Extra zip ties 10. Duct tape 11. extra bulbs (some of the auto companies sell a package that has one of each type of bulb you might need). 12. Bike Cover 13. Windshield cleaning supplies (Lemon Pledge and a $5 package of terry towels) 14. Bungie Cords 15. Sunscreen 16. A large U shaped lock. 17. Set of metric allen wrenches-avoid ball end wrenches 18. Set of sae allen wrenches (for after market stuff)-avoid ball end wrenches 19. Set of 3/8 drive metric 6 point sockets 20. Set of 1/4 drive metric sockets 21. 3/8 drive universal joint 22. 1/4 drive universal joint 23. 22mm socket 24. 19mm socket 25. Set of JIS screwdrivers (size 2 is probably all you'll ever need) 26. Set of metric combination wrenches 27. Appropriate ratchets and breaker bar (for rear lug nuts, hence breaker bar) 28. Large flat tip screwdriver 29. Small flat tip (maybe a #1 or smaller) 30. 12V air compressor 31. Sticky rope plugs to plug a tire 32. 5-6 foot length of tubing to use as siphoning hose 33. Diagonal cutters (dikes) 34. Pocket knife 35. Electrical tape or duct tape 36. Flashlight 37. Small section of wire (3-4 ft of 16-18AWG) 38. A few rags & hand cleaner 39. Tire pressure gauge 40. Tire depth gauge 41. Spare valve stem 42. Bungee cords 43. Fuse assortment
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I have a new WD 2Tb caviar green sata drive that I can not get to format. I am running a clean new install of Windows 7 on a SATA drive using a slightly old MB, ASUS AV8 deluxe, 2.5 g ram AMD processor, 9800 ATI AGP video. 64 bit I have tried Windows format with no discernable progress. I have used Acronis which goes to 3 of 3 - Creating partition then has no progress. Any suggestions. I do see the drive in Windows Manage - Disk Management screen Also having issue getting VIA SATA driver to run on 7. MB has 3 IDE inputs & 4 SATA. Also have an add in card with 2 more SATA & 1 more IDE input. Gary
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THIS WILL DRIVE YOU CRACKERS ! Go to the site, then click on the start button. A group of numerals from 1 to 33 will appear in red boxes. You don't need to click on the numbers, just move your cursor over them in order from 1 to 33 and as you correctly do so that numeral will disappear. See how fast you can get the task completed. This is a good practice to keep your brain sharp and your eye hand co-ordination crisp, or ...................................................... it could drive you mad! Enjoy!! HA! Note: REMEMBER, you don't have to "click" the mouse http://www.chezmaya.com/jeux/game33.htm
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I got the rear housing / gears from a VMax and swapped this out with mine on the 2008 RSTD. I don't have the rear wheel back on as yet as I wanted to take the time to check the drive pins before re-installing. My questions are; on the forum someone mentions two special tools required to change the drive housing. One, I assume, is to hold the coupling up inside of the fork tube to make it easier to get the drive shaft spline into it. The other is for some sort of bearing retainer? I didn't have either tool. One thing I did do was to start the driveshaft into the coupler, then push it into the housing aligning the spring, etc. Then I slid the entire assembly together and started the acorn nuts. Anything I may have missed on the rear housing end by doing this?
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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVdMySWfAIQ&feature=player_embedded]You got to see this, Getting yelled at for the diesel truck I drive - YouTube[/ame] Some people are nuts!!
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IT is starting to drive me nuts. What are people talking about when they say IT So the question is,,,,what is IT?????
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here is a peek at the new bike to come. if I was 25 again I'd sure give it some thought http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2011/10/honda-confirms-v4-shaft-drive-crosstourer-going-into-production/ Dray
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I have removed the right side oil seal, bearing and collar. I removed the drive pin assembly and oil seal on the left side. The bearing on the left side appears to be removed toward the right, is this correct and what do you use to drive it out. I have a Tusk bearing puller but this bearing cannot be remove toward the left due to burrs inside the wheel. The only way it could have been installed is through the right side.:think: -
Is this any good. The final drive is out of my 91 vr and when I changed the gear oil it had metal flakes in the oil . WHen I removed and replaced it the drive shaft pulled out and better minds than mine says that I had broken the pinion shaft.. NOt sure if its any good as far as a repair . Or if the drive shaft can be removed from the shaft its incased in. Help please as I would hate to throw this away if it would be of some use to another person, or is it a paper weight now? David
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I just finished more or less the install of the final drive bought from skydoc. Many thanks to all who gave me the courage to do this on my own. It is in for the most part. Got to put gear oil in and tighten up bolts and such an install the left exhuast. Not sure but I dont think the rear end is suposed to look like this. The drive shaft is fused to the sleeve and its not like that on the new to me one. David
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Yup...You guessed it... The 650 VStar and RSV have a lot more in common than the gas caps.... Although not the same part number, they do not sell the final drive shaft assembly seperatly(as it must mesh exactly with its counterpart in the hub). They do sell the coupling gear for 18.29. So I Need a 650 Yamaha Rear axel Gear case assembly. Part no# 5FB-46101-00-00 or 5FB-46101-01-00 The splines are completely gone, they were rusty, as no grease was ever put on them.... So word of warning... all you RSV and 650 owners need to pull the driveline and grease the splines on the coupling gear. This drive assembly for the 650 is over $500 new... In the meantine, I'm going to mig weld the coupling gear to the final drive shaft assembly on the inside. this will not allow it to be dissassembled, but you cannot buy the parts seperately anyway.
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I am having my rear tire replaced this weekend. What final drive work should i have done while the wheel is off? I have heard that the rear splines need to be serviced. Is this a good time for that? Thanks Al -
Just want to confirm before I start investing money in this project. I want to get Vmax gearing in my RSV and the Vmax final drives are too damned costly. Found a few FJR setups that are far more reasonable. Nice thing is they also don't have the shock stud to worry about. Can anyone confirm the FJR final drive will work? Thanks for any and all info!! Frank
