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Showing results for tags 'carb'.
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I know there is already another "cheap carb sync" thread but I had a little time at work today to make a .pdf and I'm sure there are some here that don't know that there is an option. The Carbtune is still an easier way but if you like to tinker and would rather spend the money you save on something else then this is the way to go. And I like this style better than the yardstick and tubing style because there is no chance of sucking any liquid into the engine. $10 dollar carb sync
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What carb can i use on my 1983 venture that i can bolt it on and just go:confused24: -
Is there anyone near Lancaster or Harrisburg PA that would be willing to help me with my first carb sync?
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We own a RSV and it's now time to start doing my own maintenance (no more local dealer). So I'm buying the tools to do a carb sync and I start thinking about my Suzuki M95/ MS. Do we need to sync the carbs on our V twin's? I've never seen a post about that.
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Will a carb from a 1988 venture work right on a 1983 venture:confused24:
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Just did my first carb synch on my bike and I have a quick question. While taking off the rubber hose from one of the carbs I noticed it had a cut/split, does it have to be replaced or is it just a minor thing? BTW: 1st time doing it by myself = 20 minutes. Saved $250 and 8 hours because that's what the shop wants.
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I received my New Set of Throttle cables for my 89 the other day, and they are Installed, Working Great. ---- Of Note: At the Carb, end, the New ones Have Vinal Inserts, I guess Yamaha took note of the Fraying at the #1 Carb hook up point. ---- Wether this will stop the Fraying problem, I don't know, but its worth takeing note of if you need to replace your throttle cables.
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can i use a 1988 carb on a 1983 venture will it work:starz:
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I've had the 86VR for a few weeks and after some tinkering, I got it running pretty good...some popping at idle but that's about it. I decided to check the back right diaphragm, just to see its condition. As it turns out, it was in pretty good shape...a couple of pinholes but that's it. I reinstalled and decided to see how the slides work looking down the air filter hole. To my surprise, three were pulsing freely but #3 was not moving at all. I took the diaphragm out and it came out in sections. The metal piece which holds the diaphragm and plastic washers together had separated from the sleeve. I reassembled the unit at what a difference. All of a sudden, I had a 4 banger. I saw a cheapo carb sync tool somewhere consisting of clear fuel line in two loops and ball bearings. I made one of these and after a 5 minute carb synch, (#3 was way out), it goes like a scalded cat.
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Just completed the carb mod to increase gas mileage on my 86 Venture. The mod from this site (with pics I may add) says to remove the white fiber/plastic spacer and replace with x2 m4 washers. Here's the lead in to the question.....when I removed the "slider"..the needle itself had some "play" to it...you could push it in a little and feel the tension of the spring. After the mod....that movement/free play is pretty much gone. Is this normal???
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finaly get to pick up my bike in time for the 4th. the dealer replace needles and seats. says it was due to gas. covered under warrenty tho. got a carb synch and tuneup out of it.
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I bought an '83 standard in about 40 pieces, Pretty much everything is there, trying to restore to normal. Choke cable; where does it attach at the carb end. Have and checked manuals but no mention of choke in carb sections or anywhere else, so where? Thanks in advance, Denny
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I did post this on the other thread. But wanted to give all a heads up... Well, here I am. Finally able to breathe. Been working on these carbs for weeks. Got a spare set off Ebay. They were in good shape. I used the #3 & 4 bank w/new parts needed. Now my power is linear. Did 125 mile back road ONLY ride. Speeds of 45-70. My overall average was close to 55mph. So, I was using a lot of the pilot jet. Went and filled up at the end of the ride. I really tried to get in as much as I could in the tank by shaking the bike on the center stand...could only fit 2.9 gallons in. That's 43mpg in the hilly area I live in. Pretty damn good and close to what I always got for the past 20 years with this beast. NOW-Neither #3 nor 4 plugs are black. #3 is light brown spot on the tip and #4 is almost white, like 1 & 2. I have #3 pilot screw is 2 ccw turns out and #4 is 2.25 or so-ccw. Note: all settings using digital tach. Prior to this latest carb work. I could not break 40mpg. Last remove / rebuild times, the float/fluid height was dead on and did not change. But still had it too rich somehow. NOW-Something just works better with these Ebay carbs. I know there is something I must have done wrong since the original carb rebuild a year ago. And #1 and 2 have never had an issue. As far as #3&4 problems, I am not entirely sure what the cause was or is on the originals. So my original set of 3 & 4 will just sit. I will be getting it EGA'd soon, to get this finished. I don't think #3 should be the only "brown" plug. But it's better than the black I had before. And the fuel mileage speaks for itself. Thanks for all the suggestions. Even if I haven't a clear idea why she was rich and what I did to fix it. Now if it skips/misfires at idle when hot. My profession being in electronics. I am not worried if it's an electrical issue, coils, or TCI. Because that's all that's left. Hope this is the last of this issue. I bet you hope the same... You must be tried of me by now. -
just purchesed a 1988 royal I am new to yamaha and dont know to much about them. new to internet to so my spelling will be bad. after riding for a couple days, the rpm drop to o when I am setting at a red light and it starts back firing. Give it some gas and it runs fine. It runs fine downd the road no missing or back fireing. could this be the diaphram in the carb or could it be electical. where can I find a service for it.I have been reading alot of the threads on this sight and sure helps I am glad I joined. thanks Motorhead 704 -
Does anyone know where I can buy a complete rebuilt kit worth the money? Do they even make a complete rebuilt kit? By complete I mean one that has everything for the internal instead of having to buy jets and other things seperate. Or does anyone have a set of carbs that are ready to go on for sale? excuse my ignorance on this carb stuff but I gotta learn eventually to do things myself because the shops are just getting higher in price.
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Anybody in the South East Georga area can help with carb sync? I borrowed a carb tuner but still unsure how to perform the maintence??
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Anyone in the south east Georga area can help with the carb sync?????
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Well after several years of being parked I'm trying to bring my 1977 KZ1000 back to life, so I hope someone here can lend some advice. I've cleaned the carb, leveled the floats, did a coils mod to increase the spark. Took it out for a ride today and it ran good for about 20 miles. It then started to miss bad. When I go home I pulled the plugs and 3 of the 4 were covered in black soot. Put a new set in , moved the carb needle put 1/2 turn and got the same results. What should I try next?
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If ya look at my picture, the left exhaust pipe is tan and the right one is darker. I havnt had a carb sync since 6/8/08. 09 the bike sat mostly and has 4000 miles on it since then. My mpg seems to be poor. My question is-- This something that a carb sync may fix or am I looking at a valve issue. The left side has always been a lil lighter since ive had the bike. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/Hazenson/2010/100_3717-1.jpg?t=1273875421
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Well, after getting my '87VR back together I had 2 stuck carb needle/seat assemblies. So I decided since the old girl had over 70k...it was time for a complete going thru of all carbs. I have put 99% of all the miles on this bike. So I know how it should run. I have done carb work many times on many different bikes. So I was not afraid. Jets were removed, jet blocks "dipped". I set the floats absolutely perfect on the bench and confirmed w/engine running. Results have been all carbs give an ideal idle of 2.5ccw low speed screw all carbs. While #1 & 2 cause rpm drop right at 3 ccw. Which is quite normal to me. BUT on #4(rght. frnt) I can go to 5 turns ccw and not cause the idle to drop and #3 is almost the same. Which is not normal to me. All settings done with an accurate digital tach. Carbs are syc'd.All checks for vacuum leaks done. None found nor suspected because... HERE's the real issue. #4 starts to misfire when the bike is really hot, seemingly like too rich. I can hear the spark cap arcing and using a screw driver and my finger(ouch)confirmed this. Wire replaced 2 times, spark plug & cap(stock and NGK) 3 times-no change. The spark plug is not wet when it is removed. But does have a very small brown spot on it. I suspect something like this may be impossble to read w/o that glass spark plug thing(can't remember the name).I honestly believe the new internal gaskets that are now the "norm", don't seal worth a damn. These new cheapo gaskets are very fiberous.I suspect they don't seal well. The originals were hard paper. Does anyone else whose done rebuilds have the same suspicions regarding these NEW gaskets...? My only other possibility is the choke plunger leaking. But this possibility is something I have never witnessed in all my years. Lastly , I used to always get over 40mpg solo... Now it's impossible. No, I am not going to lower the needles. That's not the issue here.
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If any one has 1 old but usable carb slider for an 83 first gen Smaller bore than the 2nd gen. , can you PM me. skydoc_17 put me on to a problem i was having and sure enough he was dead on (as usual ). I had one slide come loose and was not opening all the way. superglue repair and carb sync and its a new beast. all the rest of mine are OK but the chipped up one , and I hate to run it (even though it runs great now) with it knowing its condition. let me know. thanks. maindog.
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Hi all. This is my first post. I wish I had found this forum earlier. I own a 1996 RSTC that my wife and I unfortunately don't get to ride as often as we would like. I always use fuel stabilizer when we store it, but this spring when I started it, fuel was dripping from the carb area. As I said, I wish I had found this forum sooner. I assumed it was gummed up needle and seat, and although I've rebuild a few auto carbs, I've never played with these. After calling the dealer and getting a quite expensive quote, I decided I'd tackle this myself. I removed the carb assembly and I'm going to disassemble them asap. I noticed it is the first carb in line from the inlet of the fuel line that is leaking. I'm a little leery about all this and don't know if I should go all out or just remove and clean the bowl on the one I have now leaking. Also, I'm wondering about a sentence in the Yamaha service manual I purchased with the bike that says don't use any caustic carb cleaners, just use a petroleum based cleaner . I was going to soak the bodies in Delco carb cleaner over night, wash them off in hot water and soap and blow them dry. Now I'm lost as to what to do. I also will try to change the fuel filter, but it looks buried in the frame pretty good. I haven't really looked closely at that situation yet. Any advice would be appreciated. Wish I had known about simply tapping on the bowl or using sea foam (whatever that is, I'll look into that also). Thanks. -
wow, I did a beautiful job with the carb synch yesterday. Today I barely got 130 miles from a tank of gas traveling an average of 75-80 mph on the highway.. wow.. now THAT sucks.. =( We had high winds today, but mostly coming from quartering rear, average temps of 45'F.. I know the carb synch was spot on as the buzz in the mirrors is gone and the bike rode smoother than before.. But man, I would typically get 160 miles on the tank before needing to fuel with some to spare, but today, I was down to the last bar or two on the fuel gauge.. that's hard to take.. Do high winds make THAT much of a diff on fuel mileage? I know running at higher speeds will cause it to suck..
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I'm looking for help. I just purchased an 82 Kawasaki KZ 550 LTD for my wife. It's her starter bike. Bike has 6900 origional miles but has been stored for over 20 years. It starts but needs a carb cleaning among other things. I've removed the carbs but I'm not sure what to do with the tank. It has some rust but not bad. How do I go about cleaning it? Thanks for any help, David
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Here is a new listing on ebay for a set of 4 new carb joints for 1st gen bikes. Buy it now price of $79.99 + $15.50 shipping. These go for around $45 to $50 apiece from the discount suppliers. The clamps are not supplied and I doubt O-rings are either. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYALE-INTAKE-CARB-HOLDERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588711e922QQitemZ380223220002QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Ebay item # is 380223220002 if link doesn't work. Gary
