Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'switch'.
-
I'm thinking I have a main switch thay may be heading south. Over the weekend, I found a dead spot in the "on" position that kills everything dead if the switch is wiggled while in the "run" position. I have the manual, but see nothing about R&Ring the switch. Anyone got a procedure for removing and cleaning the switch? Thanks.
-
My 83's previous owner had run a switch to the headlight. In working through some electrical issues I decide to tackle the headlight. I have low beam but when I use the switch for High beam nothing, no light or indicator light. What I have done so far: All connections have been taken apart and cleaned with contact cleaner making sure they are tight. Solder cold joints on CMS (this got the low beam working) and CLASS. Gave the handle bar switch for high beam a shot of cleaner but did not take it apart. Looking at the wiring diagram and reading in the service manual it is looking like I need to check the reserve lighting unit - if I just knew where it was and what I looks like. CMS show no fault codes now so I'm getting closer. Anyone have a clue as to what to check next. The information here on the website has been wonderful in bringing this ride back to life. Thanks All, Steve
-
Ignition Switch Failure A big thanks to Eck Nace for the excellent write-up Clicking on the pictures will show a larger version. For those of you who have not had ignition switch failure I recommend that you check this connector as soon as possible. This is the connector for the Red Hot wire and the Brown & Blue wire that comes from the ignition switch located under the fuel tank. Luckily, I just happen to “turn” the connector upside down while installing the ignition switch by pass mod in the case of ignition switch failure. View of ignition switch connector under fuel tank. This is the connector for the RED wire and the Brown/Blue wire View looking down at ignition switch wire connectors under fuel tank. Note: The two wires that you see with RED TAPE are the two wires used to by pass the ignition switch. One of them is the RED hot wire and the other is the Brown/Blue wire. Mental note: When splicing into the Red wire and Brown/ Blue wires, it is highly recommended that you make your split connection on the “aft” end of both connectors. This way if you ever DO have to remove the ignition switch, you can still unplug the two connectors with out having to cut the two by-pass wires again. Also, as shown in this picture, if the connection on the brown/blue wire did happen to burn up and where I lost connection, I would STILL be able to use the ignition by-pass switch I installed to start and run the bike. After I cut the burnt connector out, I installed this connector in its place. Please note: Only (2) wires go thru this new rubber sealed connector. The RED hot wire and the Brown / Blue wire which both go to the ignition switch. The black wire may LOOK like it goes through this new connector but it does not. Photo of removed burnt connector This photo is to show the location of the ignition by-pass switch installed in the case of ignition switch failure. I wanted the by-pass switch located in a convenient location, where I do not have to get off the bike if the stock ignition switch fails.
-
I need the part that hooks to the spring on the side stand which contacts the kickstand switch on a 1st gen venture. This part has a 90deg. bend in it which makes contact with the switch. One of the previous owners must have broken it off because they were haveing trouble with the switch. I know the switch works but is sticking and needs cleaning and I would like to get this fixed. If anyone has a spare I would be glad to pay you for it.
-
High heat, extreme cold and lack of use are the hardest on batteries. I can't help you with the first 2 but for the third simply do this. Install a $7-9 70amp switch between the battery negative and ground. I get mine at Pepboys but any good auto supply should have them. This will reduce the discharge rate because rectifier diodes, clocks and some TCI's (computers, ignitions) still pull power even with the ignition switch off. Putting the switch on the negative side relieves the switch of the high amperage loads at start ups but still breaks the circuit. You should still recharge the battery before starting, if it has not been run is several weeks. Buy the way, my "cheapest" I can find batteries usually last 5 years (in this desert heat).
-
I had the "dim low beam" issue which most of you say is likely the CM or maybe the switch. The shop "fixed" this by putting a jumper in the system. If I read the wiring diagram in the service manual correct, the jumper is connected to the headlight wires (G/R and Y/G) and taps into the headlight switch on the switch side (Y and G) The indicator light, which was partially on before is now off, but the CM warning light is on. I haven't fully disected the connector, but it appears they did not disconnect and re-route, but merely added a secondary pathway. I'm not sure why this would cause a fault on the CM as I didn't have one before. Since I've got everything apart I'm planning on pulling the CM and re-soldering it and then pull the jumper. Hopefully that will get rid of the flashing warning. -
So, it's Saturday, it's raining/snowing, I have nothing to do. Have my fairing split to install an extension to the Aux Audio line coz I removed the cassette and I was thinking about auxilliary power switches for things like driving lamps or whatever. Remembered seeing others with those chrome 3 switch boxes on top of the front brake reservoir (I like those) and also remembered the nice rocker switches below the gauges on the Harley Ultra so, I started fabricating and came up with the following.... First pic is the Factory "bare bones" cruise switch. Second 2 pics are the completed result. Rest of the pics are in order of build process. I had some flat 1/8 thick (appx) 2" wide aluminum that I'd used for something or another. I cut a piece 6" long. Used a cardboard template to determine the appx cutout below the cruise switch. Made the cut and then realized I needed tabs to mount it. Was going to use some angle brackets but decided it would be easier and cleaner to bend the existing aluminum so I had to re-cut (hence the "fixed up" pic). Also realized that the original size (using angle brackets) would hit somewhere near the ignition switch when the wheel was turned to pin. Made the bend and checked for positioning. Cut the holes for the switches ( appx 5/8 by 1 & 1/8 based on the rocker switch I used). I drilled a hole big enuf to get a jigsaw blade in and then cut to appx size with that...then used a file to finish off, checking often to get it just right so that the switch would pop in (forgot to take pics of the switches but I used the kind that have little "pressure tangs" on the back) I drilled 4 holes for mounting screws and used some short sheet metal screws and screwed them right into the plastic. I drilled small pilot holes first. After all the cutting, filing, and checking for fit was done, I smoothed all the edges, roughed up the surfaces, cleaned it with thinners and painted the bracket with a "textured metallic" paint (black of course). I toyed with the idea of smoothing and polishing the aluminum but I felt it would not blend with the overall look. Rocker switches mounted....not yet connected to anything but hey... one day they will be!
-
:detective:I want to install the factory passing lamps but wish to get them off the ignition switch. Relays have been mentioned and I wanted to know why a relay. Couldn't you wire direct to the accessory post and switch them as intended beside the 12 volt plug? Could some one go over the wiring from the start.
-
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDBDkVI0Cn4]YouTube - Human bobsled vs. motorcycle[/ame] I saw this and wonder if it's the prototype for a 3rd Gen? Disadvantage - NO 2UP Advantage - Ignition switch won't go BAD ...right RiderDuke?? MIKE aka Uturn
-
I got my passing lamps from Santa and was getting ready to install them today but I decided I didn't like the switch that came with them so I stopped the install and started shopping. I was wondering what size handle bars are on the Venture? Also I was wondering if anyone has one of these(http://www.chromeworld.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=3099&categoryID=1692) installed and how it worked for them. I am kinda torn between that one and this one (http://www.chromeworld.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=935&categoryID=1692). Any suggestions would be appriciated.
-
Here is the question, I have a 2002 road star warrior that was purchased after some modifications. I have had several electrical issues that I believe can be traced back to a grounding cable that was replaced. That issue is resolved but now I need to know about grounding of the ignition switch. The previous owner installed the switch on the plastic air intake cover, where it is hidden from view. There does not seem to be a grounding wire except in the switch itself. My battery (which is new) drains down after about 12 - 16 hours. Does there need to a ground to the switch itself since it is installed in plastic.
-
Just bought an 84, not the Royale version (standard?) It needs lots of work. Been sitting for a couple years, every body piece on it is cracked some how, and the carb slides are stuck, just from my first looking over it. Good news is that I can jump the solenoid and it cranks over. I am sure I will have many questions, but my first one is this: When in neutral, the computerized display, the LCD part only, goes blank. In gear it displays properly. While I suspect t has something to do with the neutral start switch, is there a common place that I might check first as to avoid completely tearing apart the wiring harness? Also, is there a good place to find parts for this bike? Parts N more doesn't list it, and most other places I have found charge near dealer prices, or don't list it. Thanks
-
Hi guys! Well the cold weather hit and I went a few too many days without starting my firstgen VR and bought a Black & Decker trickle charger at a local store. Its a sweet little unit that comes with three interchangeable connectors, 1 that you can bolt onto the terminals and leave it on there for quick plugin, a 2nd with alligator clips and a 3rd thats a cigarette lighter plug. I was preparing to pull the false tank cover and bolt on the first when I remembered...Hey, my venture has a cigarette lighter, so I took the easy way and plugged the trickle charger in that way. An hour later and Vroom! Vroom! it started right up. Great news right? Well, yes except for one little thing. I noticed my headlight and the lights on my instrument cluster gauges were not on. Im pretty sure I popped a fuse but before I tear in there I was hoping to find a diagram for the fusebox on the first gens. I would like to know if I can safely replace the blown fuses with fuses that are a little larger...and I mean a LITTLE larger. Im not going to throw 20 amp fuses in there and defeat the whole purpose of having fuses in the first place. Im also not in a huge hurry because having the headlight NOT light up saves a ton of battery and makes these cold winter starts...but I will need to fix it before I take the bike back out in the spring. Another crazy idea I had that Im inviting comments on.... I know you legally MUST have a working headlight on a motorcycle, but has anyone considered putting a switch in...maybe out of the way...opposite the hazards switch, expressly for cold starts? I just keep thinking what an advantage it would be to have one when your bike battery is giving its all and its not quite enough....wouldnt it be great to shut off the headlight and have that extra power for starting? Feedback is welcome! -
.....Nevermind.....got it. -
Is there any way to relocate the red ign. switch located on the right handle bar?? I have bumped that thing a couple of times and shut the motor off at the most inoppurtune times, such as taking off from a red light, and once going down the highway at 70 mph. Now that will get your attention when you automatically reach up and turn it on again. The resulting "BANG" will almost give you hear failure!! Has anyone ever relocated this switch?? Don H. -
Hi. I've seen alot of traffic here on how to wire driving lights. Using a relay is the ONLY way to go, but there's the decision of whether the relay should trigger off the HI beam or not. When I first installed them, I wanted them to get power only when the headlight is on, and thru a separate switch. Therefore, I can turn them on or off, but if I leave them on when starting the bike they go off during starting (with the headlight) to reduce battery draw. So that's what I did, and it works well. However, the lights are blinding to oncoming traffic so if I'm on a country road and encountering frequent but not steady traffic, I'm constantly flipping both the HI/LO switch and the driving light switch (car coming, put headlight on LO and turn DL's off). That's why it's nice to have them on the HI beam circuit, but sometimes I like to have the LO beam on with the DL's (on my dirt road, for example). . So I had an epiphany which allows me the best of both worlds. I replaced the DL switch with a double-throw type of the same size. Center position is OFF, fwd position is ON (still tied to HL circuit as before), and back position is tied to the HI beam circuit. This is all for triggering the relay; the main DL power still goes thru the relay. It's pretty slick :-) Jeremy
-
Mine finally gave out on me yesterday after completing a Patriot Guard mission. Locked up so bad I could not even start the bike. My local Dealer picked her up within 30 minutes of my call to him. New switch was already on Order by the time she came off the trailer at the Shop and the new switch from Yammi should be in within 3-4 days. Can't ride this coming week anyhow cuz of our lousy weather of snow/sleet/ice.
-
Other than being the famous last words of the Hindenburg pilot, what does the small slider switch on the dash, to the right of the handle bars at the vertical portion of the dash panel next to the "grate" do? http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq60/ivanstein/IMAGE_018.jpg?t=1227930215
-
Does anyone know if it is hard to switch from 84 to 86 hard bags ? TOM
-
If so, I am in need of the "Low Fluid" magnetic reed switch assembly. I'm rebuilding a couple of them, and on one the O ring for the switch was "glued" on and I sort of destroyed the switch. The float is fine. If you have one, I can make use of it... -
My ignition switch is about shot....I can't turn it to lock the front end, and have to fish around for a spot that will give me ignition.... I need to know how to remove the switch to replace it, or get it repaired.... Have any of you taken one out? What tool do I need to remove the bolts? A replacement switch runs around $150.00, and I don't want to have to pay the stealership to do the work on top of that... Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-
Thank you for taking my question. Are the headlights on a Venture "remotely adjusted" while setting on the bike from somewhere on the fairing or done somewhere else on the front of the bike? This option is listed on the features page of the bike on the Star website but I can`t find any knob or electric switch to make this work. Excuse my ignorance and any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
-
Does anyone know how much gas is left in the tank when it runs out of gas on the main and you switch to reserve?
-
Ive heard that Mobil1 15W50 is perfectly fine for motorcycle use with wet clutch. is this right? does anyone here use it? I'd like to switch to a synthetic for less than the overpriced yamalube. -
Running out of ideas. The cruise in this '86 used to work, not great, but it worked. Now it will turn on, all the lights come on-then go off with power light still on. Hit the set button and nothing happens. It's like the wire was cut. I took the switch apart and it looked good; cleaned it, and put it back together. I have done the same to the clutch switch and the brake switch. I took the instrument panel apart(to get the bug out of the speedo:rotf:) and took apart all the plugs and cleaned them and put dielctric in them. Then I did it to almost every plug on the scoot. The scoot was kept mostly indoors during it's former life and everything has been free of corrosion. I have tried to chase wires but the diagram I have(the free downloadable one here) is mostly unreadable so I am not having any luck with the wirs. I know little about electronics and get easily bogged down. I don't know how the system works but I think when I hit the set switch, a signal goes to a black box or 2(haven't a clue) which works the diaphram conected to the throttle box. I just don't know what next. Any help would be appreciated.
.thumb.jpg.accbdaacb0379dd21c20428300e65e4d.jpg)
