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hig4s

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Everything posted by hig4s

  1. Any Non-energy conserving (check the API circle on the back) synthetic is great. Any Non-energy conserving brand name dino oil is good. If you are one of those fanatics that has to change their oil more often than the manual recommends dino is as good as synthetic. I am using Mobil 1 motorcycle specific on the RSV, on all my previous bike I used Mobil 1 Red cap. It was non-energy conserving, but they have changed their formulas and packageing so there are no red caps anymore, you have to look at the back of the bottle. I just figured with the price I paid for this bike I would pay the little extra for a motorcycle oil.
  2. It is big and heavy, but as far as the around town thing, once you get use to it, it is not that bad. I use mine around town all the time. And on test rides I found it better at slow speeds than a Goldwing or BMW LT. And of course there are some tricks to make it even better. 40psi in the rear shock helps and so for the only thing I've done to mine.
  3. I know flames and skulls are overdone, but I'd still like to have this on my side bags.
  4. If you look at the accident and fatality stats, the second highest group it the 40 to 60 age group. But it is not just about age, it is experience. When they separate the those in that group that have years of experience (100,000 miles pluse) from those that decided to get their first bike then (which is a very large #) they find that the experienced rider between 40 and 60 is the safest. and the inexperienced rider between 40 and 60 is just as bad as the 20 to 25 group.
  5. When I'm taking it real easy,, most of the time, I still don't shift to 5th until I'm over 40mph, but I have also shifted down to 3rd to pass at over 70mph no problems. So far I've never hit the rev limiter.
  6. this bike is a full dress cruiser, air in the suspension, different tires, leveling links will all help, but it is still a cruiser. It is not trying to compete with Goldwings and BMW LTs. Personally I tested them all, love them all, but can only afford one, and the RSV is it. After 35 years on sport and sport-touring bikes, I just don't care much about going fast anymore, and the RSV suits me.
  7. It never need to be choked, even in cold weather. Mine often needs to be choked in hot weather, and I can leave it half on and walk away it will idle fast but fine. Makes me think your choke (enriching lever) is not working properly. It may be all the way in, but not all the way off.
  8. Thanks for the info, I don't smell anything but will check the Ys anyway.. Al
  9. My 07 is just over 3000 miles and it seem over the last two weeks the bike is getting louder.. I have had to turn up the volumn on the stereo up two numbers.. It sounds mostly like exhaust tone,, I haven't put a wrench on the exhaust collars but they seem tight. Is this normal?
  10. If you go custom I recommend Rick Mayer,, http://www.homestead.com/prosites-rmcycle/index.html but you have to be patient, he can take a while.. I love the pillow top on my RSV, but had a Rick Mayer on my Kawasaki.. much firmer than that pillow top but still very comfortable.. Its biggest plus was no matter how far I rode, my behind only need about a 1/2 hour to recover,, with the stock Kaw seat it sometimes took days.
  11. Looking through the thread, I don't see where anyone has mentioned changing the fuel filter.
  12. It is only a fairly small percentage of bikes from what I can tell that have the whine/chirp as a real loud problem. My 07 started right around 600 miles, it was annoying but not real loud like I've heard some say. I switched to a full synthetic oil at first change and now it is hardly noticeable. Like was said, the bike comes with a 5 year warranty, so I wouldn't let the chirp stop you. What would worry more about is what you think of your local dealers. We have three local Yamaha dealers near me, one is absolutely terrible. If he was the only one I would not buy any Yamaha product for fear of having to deal with them if any problem did arise. As long as you have a decent dealer nearby, go for it.
  13. There are two long hex nuts under the front of the seat.. Left side is very close to the chrome on the top of the cylinder so you can't use a socket on that side, need an open end wrench.. 10mm I think. Once you have the nuts off, lift up, slide forward a couple inches and lift off. Getting the tab on the back of the seat to slide back into its spot when reinstalling can be a pain.
  14. I have the Utopia back rest, it is very nice and much cheaper than a whole saddle, but it supports the middle of the back not really the lower back. For a seat I would go with something custom if you feel you need one. Mayer, or Russel are very good. I personally think Corbin saddles are too hard, but there is a Corbin shop near Daytona so if you ever come to Bikeweek or are traveling down here you can stop and have one custom fit.
  15. Or perhaps the dealer checked, actually doing something to earn their "dealer prep" fee instead of just slapping on the handlebars. Naww, what was I thinking
  16. Good info, thanks
  17. Has anyone tried to change the filter in between oil changes on and RSV? I keep looking at where the filter is mounted and can't decide if it looks above or below the oil level.
  18. Not sure about the scratches, but I use 409 at home to clean the screen then use Honda/Kawasaki/Meguiers spray clean and polish. They all seem to be about the same. And I bought a 24 pack of micro-fiber auto polishing cloths from Costco (for $9) and always keep a clean one in my trunk. When on the road I just use water and the micro-fiber towel. But I do like the idea of the Pledge wipes, I'll have to try that.
  19. The whole 3000 mile thing was invented by the oil companies and the oil change businesses. Do what ever the owner manual says, (8000 miles for the RSV and RSTD) and you can add at least 50% if you are using a full synthetic.. (still have to do the filter on time) I have been doing +50% the interval (or more) using full synth on the last 4 motorcycles and last several cars, never had a problem. Generally on motorcycles I can tell when the oil is going bad by the way they shift.
  20. The set up I was planning on for the turnsignals was the Custom Dynamics, dynamic clusters, but I hadn't thought about that for just the tail light,, I guess after reading this I need to go with their conversion or the 1.85 1157 cluster for the tail light too. Thanks..
  21. I'm thinking about replacing my tail light bulb with a red LED to make it brighter. Has anyone done this,, does it work with the stock red lens or do I need to change to a clear lens.. Eventually I also want to change the turn signals to a cluster with running lights, brake lights and turn signals but not willing to spend quite that much at this time.
  22. To really be comfortable for a passenger the RSTD would need aftermarket seats added. You should also test ride the Goldwing and the BMW 1200LT before you decide.. and the ST1300 (probably the most comfortable sport-touring machine for two up) and the new MotoGuzzi Norge.. both are very comfortable for two up riding and better in the twisties than the RSTD or RSV.. The RSTD and RSV are cruisers, they handle well, but not sporty.. I went from a Ninja 750 to a Kaw ZR-7S set up for sport touring to the RSV.. I debated it for two years and once almost bought a BMW LT, and also almost bought an ST1300, but now find I don't miss the sporty handling and I'm just happy cruising along in comfort. Of course I still have a motocross bike for those time I just need to be wild.
  23. No leveling links, I run 30 psi solo or two up.. but plan to go 40 psi when we fully load for a trip two up..
  24. Dion, screen name Instructor, has a nice set on his RSV.. If he doesn't see this thread you might PM him.
  25. WHAT???
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