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SilvrT

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Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. Unmodified they just had a deeper sound and it felt as if the sound was coming from under the bike. After drilling out the baffles, the sound was at the rear of the bike... kinda makes sense I guess since once the baffles are out you have basically a "straight-thru" muffler.
  2. In answer to #1, the RSTD and RSV are the same.
  3. yep ... I raised the question in hopes of getting good answers such as yours for the benefit of some of the new folks and maybe those not in-the-know. I personally don't use Fram either ... and for those reason's specifically. My personal preference is the Purolator one (14610 I think). As for those looking at "Motomaster" (Canadian Tire) filters, I believe they are made by FRAM.
  4. Neither of those links take me to any specific item. Similar to Dave, I had the Road King slash-cut mufflers on. I didn't care for the sound initially so I then drilled out all the baffles .... I then liked the "bark" when cranking it on and the nice "rumble" when cruising; however, on a long trip, especially when I'm climbing hills a lot of the time and slowing down/speeding up due to traffic, the sound gets a bit annoying as under acceleration, they are quite loud (imho) ... so, I removed them and put the stockers back on. Gonna go with that for a summer and then maybe try some Bubs or Khromwerks...maybe not. As for price, I paid $50 for mine (or was it $75...I forget) and they were in "like new" condition. As far as I know, no rejetting is necessary for most muffler swaps.
  5. OK, so this brings up another question and maybe should be a separate thread but ... why do you (or anyone for that matter) feel that a Fram filter is "cheap" and will not do the job when changed every 3-4,000 miles? BTW, this is just for curiosity sake... doesn't mean I'm a "FRAM guy" LOL
  6. Something to watch for.... When I had mine done, there was little to no difference. I pulled the basket and found that they installed a "G" basket, not the " I " basket so I got ahold of the shop manager and he got a proper "I" basket.... I swapped it out myself (since I already had it all apart) and it's been probably 80% quieter since. So, point being is... make sure it's the "I" basket they're installing. On the back side of the basket on the outer edge where the gear teeth are, you will see a clear stamped " I ". [ATTACH]52223[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]52224[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]52225[/ATTACH]
  7. I can't count the number of times I have ridden that road .... going back as early as 1976 was probably the first time. Love taking that route! Here's a couple pics at a spot I stopped at just last year. [ATTACH]52215[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]52216[/ATTACH]
  8. "ride with a bald eagle" ..... and here I thought you were going to post something about me...
  9. ok, now I wanna know..... where do ya get bacon with clothes on it??? :rotf:
  10. I'm still trying to figgure this one out.... :think: :think:
  11. It's pretty obvious that winter has set in and SOME PEOPLE have NOTHING to do!
  12. only one problem to this theory .... WHERE DOES ONE GET A DOLLAR BILL FROM ??? :sign20: (us Canucks don't have 'em ... we jus` got "Looneys")
  13. Brian, you didn't need to flap this in our faces..... WE ALREADY KNOW ALL ABOUT IT !!!
  14. ...and they go on the ends of the hose closest to the carbs.
  15. oh... so are you inferring we're all 10 yrs old??? (how I wish!!! )
  16. PayPal payment sent.
  17. Those things are a "must have" for anyone who does even the smallest amount of wrenching on their own vehicle. My feeling is if you can change your own oil and filter, you can sync your carbs....it's just that easy IMHO.
  18. I'm always open to advance my knowledge so your points are well taken and I fully concur that popping in another engine might well be a better way to go. Frankly, it's been over 35 years since I was into diagnosing such problems and subsequent repair of same. As such my memory is somewhat ... ummm... diminished? LOL However, with what I do recall, having compression raise in the neighborhood of 50% on a wet test, regardless of what the actual value is was, in those days, a sure sign of the need for a ring job. I do agree tho that replacement vs repair may be the better way to go with these engines due to the work and cost involved in the repair. I also agree that more in-depth inspection/testing is necessary to "pinpoint" the actual problem before making a decision but at this stage, I'd be very suspicious of the rings. If it were me, I'd drop in the other motor and then rebuild the original one in my spare time (considering the price you're selling it for).
  19. If compression dry was 40 and wet was 60, that's a 50% increase .... seems quite a lot to me. ... but, what do I know??? could a chipped or leaky valve alone produce this much increase on a wet compression???
  20. hey Chris, anytime on a weekend you'd like to drop over to my house for that wiring project .... just let me know. I can also help you with shortening the w/s
  21. generally speaking if the compression goes up after putting oil into the cylinder then it's associated to rings but from what you've described, it could be all of the above (rings and valves). If you gotta get down to a ring job, then you should be doing the valves as well and you'll know exactly what the state of them are when you pull the heads.
  22. my twisted sense of humor I can attest to that fact... I'm just a goof naahhhhhhhhhhhh... really?? fuel nozzle caked with dirt/mud Now that's a great "tip" which I never thought of ... I'll be watching for this from now on ....
  23. Well dang... I went all through the Good Morning america recording and .... NO COMMERCIAL of us ... I wanna see it!! :crying:
  24. "trial and error" technology at it's finest LOL
  25. Up here in CanNuhDuh ... we don't have those GOOFY gas pump PITA things (at least not out here in western paradise) ... so a McCuff is, although not totally useless, ... useless! LOL
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