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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    I personally know squat about the 1st Gen Ventures, but like Kbay said, there are lots of members here who do, and I am sure they will help you out. I'm sure you already know that any 20+ year old bike is going to have its own issues, just from age, and often from neglect over the years. One thing to be careful about with the 1st Gen machines is the 2nd gear issue. The early years had a MAJOR problem with 2nd gear failing at pretty low miles. There was a recall to fix them, but not all bikes were taken care of, so you really don't want to get surprised by that one! I can't tell you just what years/models were affected, but I know it is all documented on this site. Good luck in finding what you like! Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Glad you found something that agreed with what we told you. BTW - page 7-33 of my owner's manual has the fuse clearly identified as being for the odometer and clock, but like I told you in the other thread, it is not just for that. It is really for all the electronics that have some memory requirements that need to be "backed up" when the key is off. Goose
  3. V7Goose

    back up fuse

    V7Goose replied to RJD's topic in Watering Hole

    There ARE spare fuses (and they are clearly labeled as such), but the backup fuse is not one of them - it has a real purpose. The backup fuse is to "back up" the power to the electronics so they do not lose their memory. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I have just purchased a new KOSO GP Style Tachometer with Water Temperature, BA551B23, (first item on page 12 here): http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/ Paid $150, delivered. The idea was to reduce the number of gauges I need by one to fit them all under the dash, like this: [ATTACH]46369[/ATTACH] So far, my report is decidedly mixed. First, the gauge is very impressive in the details of construction and parts supplied. But that is dampened by the absolute WORST Chinenglish - no, let me rephrase that - the documentation that comes with this thing is not NEAR good enough to be even derisively called Chinenglish - let's say Chinengiliberish! Not only is the wording so bad that much of it is totally unintelligible, but a few very key points are absolutely WRONG! The wiring harness is very impressive, with each section connected by plugs. The harness for the water temp sensor is just barely long enough for our bike, but I guess that is better than being too short! The tach input can be picked up by EITHER connecting to a coil or wrapping a wire around a spark plug lead. Compared to the minimal length of the temp sensor wires, the wires for connecting to a coil are plenty long enough to connect to your buddy's machine as he rides next to you on the highway. The gauge mounting hardware is all rubber mounted, and while the bar clamp is specifically sized to use on a normal 7/8" bar, it will work on our 1" bars with a bit of effort. The gauge itself is a bit larger than the 1 7/8" mini Drag Specialties tach which I prefer, but if you get it positioned just right it does fit under the dash at full lock, but just barely! Partially because this gauge is completely electronic, the wire connections are just slightly different than usual - one wire connects to battery hot, and another wire connects to ignition 12V. There is no separate wire for dash lights, so they are on all the time. While this probably makes no difference to most folks, it irks me a bit since I have the other gauges wired separately to a switch specifically for dash lights. Oh well . . . I can learn to live with that. The tach is truly a universal tach, as there are settings to select for both two stroke and four stroke engines, from one cylinder all the way up to 12 cylinders! But you do need quite a bit of imagination to understand what the instructions are trying to tell you about how to set those selections. Likewise, the temperature gauge can be set to display either Celsius or Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, the biggest issue is that the gauge did not work for more than 5 minutes! Everything seemed fine when I first hooked it up and set the proper formats, but the next time I turned the key on, the LCD display (temperature and configuration settings) was completely blank. The tach still seems to work OK, and the lights are on, but I can't get anything from the mode buttons or any display at all on the LCD screen. So now I am waiting to see how much trouble it will be to get this thing replaced. I'll let y'all know how that comes out. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Well, the only sure way is to check the little metal tab that came on one of the key rings with the two keys that were originally provided with the bike. The owner's manual has a place in the front to write that code, since it is what you need for a Yamahaha dealer to replace your key when it is lost. Bur I realize it is highly unlikely anyone actually writes down that code! I have heard folks say you can see the code under the key cover on the gas cap, but I strongly doubt this. I bought my 05 new and the keys and gas cap are all original - the code under that cover is somewhat worn so I cannot accurately see the full numbers, but ain't no way it is the same as on my key tag! Goose
  6. V7Goose
    OK folks, I have a factory Yamaha key for a 2nd gen - it came from a 2007 RSV - guess I forgot to give the 2nd key to the buyer a few years ago! There are a limited number of key codes made, so it is quite possible you might have a bike with the same code: A7772 I have no idea if Yamahaha changed the codes from year to year, but if you have any year 2nd gen, I'd suggest you check your key code just in case it matches (only if you want the key, of course!). Goose
  7. V7Goose
    All carburetors have both a pilot jet and main jet. The pilot jet provides the gas for idle and much of the gas up through mid throttle. The main jet provides additional gas for the engine as soon as the throttle is starting to open, and by about 3/4 throttle it is the main source of all the fuel being burned. Seafoam or 44K is good stuff to clean up the internal passages in a carb, but if the circuit is completely blocked, it cannot help at all. You need the gas/Seafoam flowing through a jet before it can clean deposits inside the jet, so if it is completely blocked, no Seafoam can get to those deposits. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    You were planning on putting his bike back together?? That seems like it is going a bit too far. I have found that if I just leave the bikes torn down, I can never be blamed for screwing it up when it doesn't work right later! Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Sounds to me like you have a plugged pilot jet. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    The brake and clutch fluid should be changed every two years. If you can detect ANY brown color at all in the sight glass on the master cylinders, then the fluid is very old and needs to be changed. Fresh fluid is virtually clear, and it turns brown as it absorbs water from the air. Changing it is easy. At Don's Maintenance day/Carnival, I will have my vacuum pump to make this job real easy. If you want to change your fluids, you will need at least TWO small bottles of DOT4 fluid (or one large 16 oz bottle). Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Well, I was doing some regular maintenance on QuickSilver the other day, just getting ready for the Ohio Carnival next week, and while I had the rear wheel off to change the tire I figured it was about time to finally check the drive shaft for lube. I know some folks here think this needs to be done every two weeks or so , but not me! I haven't pulled the drive shaft even once in 80,000 miles, and from what I saw, there really wasn't much need to do it now. There was not a ton of grease in there, but enough. It was clear that Yamaha used a moly grease when they put it together, and there were no visible signs of abnormal wear. So I just added a touch more 5% moly and put it all back together for another 80,000 miles. It really wasn't too hard to get the drive shaft back in the U-joint with the help of another member who just happened to be around while I was working (THANX Formerfuzz!). The trick was to simply put the transmission in gear and have someone else turn the final drive gears while I held the drive unit and tried to generally center the shaft on the U-joint. Here's a tip for when you get ready to do this - first, pull the drive hub/fingers from the rear wheel (which you should be doing to lube the drive fingers anyway), and use that hub for your helper to turn the gears/drive shaft while you hold the drive unit and try to insert the drive shaft into the u-joint. After you get the drive housing back in place, you can finish greasing the drive fingers and putting the hub back in the wheel. Since I hadn't done this before and I had already greased up the drive hub, I just wrapped a rag around a 2x4 and jammed it into the drive splines to turn the gears. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    It was just ABS pipe joint compound, used for assembling plastic pipe. You can get it at any hardware store. Just make sure it is either just for ABS pipe or the universal stuff labeled for PVC, CPVC and ABS. As long as it is specifically says ABS, it will work. Only two things are particularly important when you use it. First, the solvent must be fresh and liquid. An old can will be thick and gooey - that would still work OK for pipe, but not for plastic repair. Next, use plenty of solvent on both pieces - this will melt the plastic and allow it to weld together. Wiggling the parts against each other a bit when you put them together will help. Now you must let it completely cure - at least 3 or four hours in the sun - to allow all the solvent to flash off. If you use it too soon, the joint will fail, but if it is fully cured, it will be just as strong as new. If you are repairing a piece with a finished surface, be careful to keep all the extra goo on the INSIDE, as the solvent will mar the outside very quickly. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    I'm sure sorry to hear your Dad's in the hospital - hope he gets better soon. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    For anyone reading this thread - DO NOT NOT NOT use locktite on ABS plastic!! Loctite will eat the plastic! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I like what you did - very well executed. But not sure why you said you were going to spend that much on a tach anyway - there are a number of nice ones available for under $100. In fact, I just ordered a new Koso tach last night that is under 2 1/5 inches in diameter AND includes a digital water temp gauge in the middle for only $49. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    No, the shop tach to which I was referring is an early 70s vintage tach/dwell meter that is powered by the vehicle battery and clips directly to a coil. Has worked perfectly for me on every single vehicle for over 30 years (not counting an RSV recently from Arkansas where I tried to run it from the wrong side of the coil!), but it will absolutely NOT work properly on Seaking's bike (even tried a different coil). I fiddled with it for an hour or two trying different things, but finally just gave up and used an old SUN car tach that worked fine. Although I cannot explain it, there is clearly still something amiss with his bike; wish I had more time to search it out. My best guess is a bad condenser or bad plug caps. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Yeah, there is definitely something strange going on with your ignition system. For the benefit of other readers, we tried to connect my shop tach to Seaking's bike and got very erratic readings that we could not explain (the same tach worked fine on my bike). We did successfully connect a car tach set for a 4 cylinder engine (displayed 1/2 actual RPM), so we cannot explain what strange signals were affecting my shop tach. Seaking has certainly had way more than his share of problems with that bike - seems pretty evident to me it was abused and cursed with some sort of weird HD hex before he got it! Hope you find something that works for you, Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Not too late to plan tire changes at Don's Maintenance day - this is relatively easy. Just need to either bring the tire with you or order one and have it delivered to Don's address. Don has the tire changer, and I will have the tire lube and weights to help anyone interested in mounting a MC tire. Unfortunately, I am not available for any work at all concerning a car tire mounted on a bike rim. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    OK, it's official- we will have a valve clinic on Friday. We begin tearing the bike apart at 0930 - that probably means we'll be at the valves around 1130 or noon - all depends on how much bench racing we do and how soon I break into the beer! Just for anyone that is interested in the carb floats, we'll demonstrate that too - pulling the carbs is just the first part of doing the valves. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Hello all - the annual carnival is just around the corner in Ohio - as usual, I'll be riding up form Tex-ass. Planning on leaving Wednesday the 16th. for a two-day ride. I usually spend the first night just north of Nashville, Tennesse. Anyone in Texas, Arkansas or Tennessee want to join up for the ride? If you are riding up from the desolate southern regions of Tex-ass, we can give you a bed here for Tuesday night. Lemme know . . . Goose
  21. V7Goose
    OK folks, The annual carnival is just around the corner. We never decided on the 2nd annual pre-event for Friday - Don suggested a valve clinic. I'm up for that, but recently BUSTED my valve tool! So I can bring my shim kit, but we need someone else to be there with a valve tool (and probably a send shim kit to make sure we have whatever sizes are needed, since my kit is still pretty light). Let me know if anyone can participate with the needed items. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Any tach designed to work properly on a Harley with stock ignition will work fine on our bike. A little background for anyone who wants to understand the details (but they are also covered in many older threads): A four stroke engine will fire each cylinder one time every TWO revolutions or .5 times per revolution; therefore, a twin cylinder engine with a single coil will fire one time every revolution. A stock HD uses one coil without a distributor that is connected to both cylinders at the same time. This is called a dual-fire ignition. It is a very common and INCORRECT assumption in the HD community that the extra spark produced in each cylinder with this system somehow causes a loss of power, so they often convert their paint shaker to use two coils that each only fire one time in two revolutions (that is a single-fire ignition). A tach for an HD single-fire ignition will NOT work on our bike. The Royal Stars are four cylinder engines with four independent coils, but each coil has a waste spark (an extra un-needed spark) on every other revolution, so each coil behaves like an HD dual-fire ignition. This is why a tach for a twin cylinder engine works. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    The price is high, but the mileage is not (my 2005 has 80,000 miles). 40,000 miles seems just about perfect - it shows the bike has been ridden and probably maintained without any possibility of it being worn out. In fact, I would MUCH prefer an 05 with 60 - 80,000 miles to one with only 20,000 or less; sitting around rotting is much much harder on a machine that using it and keeping it maintained. I always have concern for someone who has not ridden for 30 years just buying a new bike and thinking they can still ride safely. I sincerly hope you spend the time to lean riding all over again, not just this bike. Better would be to go to an experienced rider course. I know you didn't ask for that advice, but I had to throw it in anyway. Please make CERTAIN this this bike does NOT have Brickstone tires on it!!!! If it does, make new Avon or Dunlop E3 tires a condition of the purchase. These bikes are quite heavy, but they do not have to FEEL heavy. Stock Brickstone tires are particularly VERY VERY VERY bad for this feeling, and as a new rider, there is nothing more dangerous to you than the wrong tires on this bike. If you want more information on the tire issue, there are many threads on this board dealing with it. , and ride safe Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Those hoses are the carburetor overflow hoses (if a float gets stuck). My 05 showed some paint bubbling from the same thing, and Yamaha replaced it without any argument. Not sure why gas would cause the plastic to melt, but then again, I never tested it. My argument to the shop was simple - if that was how Yamaha designed it, then nothing that could come out of that hose should damage the cowling. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Yes, it is covered under warranty. Repair is quite possible, but no reason to attempt it. I have no idea why your lid cracked; this is not something we hear much about. I'm tempted to just say to not worry about it happening again, since it is not normally a problem, but I wish I knew why it happened in the first place. Goose
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