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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    I would stay far away from that bike. It is always possible the owner actually knows what he is doing and all is good, but just not worth the risk for me. Run Run Goose
  2. V7Goose
    I can take care of this for you, and I can probably bring it down to the San Antonio area too. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Print the attached. It has the numeric code removed so no good for online, but should work great in store. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    May '11 issue of Hot Bike Bagger Pg 77 coupon expires 7/22/11. I have seen those coupons a lot, but most of them from late last year. I currently have over 30 full page coupon adds from HF, but none of them have that lift (they also are not from bike magazines). I can send you all the 20% off coupons you want, but you can also print them from their web site. Only one 20% coupon can be used at a time - it is only for the single most expensive item you buy at that time, and it cannot be combined with other coupons. It CAN be combined with sale prices and any special deals that do not have a specific coupon code that must be entered, but their computer will only allow one coupon code per item. Sometimes you can talk them into overriding that, but not usually. Good luck finding one! Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Ain't no danged winter here - 90 degrees today and wild fires burning everywhere! winds seem to blow a good 5 lbs of dirt, leaf pieces and sand into the pool every day! Trying my best not to turn on the AC for another month or so, but these fans are having a hard time keeping up with the 90+ temps. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    I guess maybe I'm just lucky, but I really like the ShowChrome meter. You are right - they are certainly not water resistant in any way but one - mine just keeps on working! I ride year 'round in any weather, and I have had it filled with water more times than I can count (you can actually see the LCD screen fill up!), but it alwayas dries out within a day and just keeps working. Mine is mounted on velcro stuck to the handle bar caps - I just pull it off and stick it in a plastic bag when I wash the bike, but never worry about it in the bad weather. My clock runs neither fast nor slow, the digital volt meter is way better than an analog meter for knowing exactly what is going on with the load, and green/yellow/red LED voltage indicators (they aren't meters) have no value at all in my book. Finally, I really enjoy having the thermometer and the clock visible at all times without having to mess with the odometer. I've had that meter on my bike for 6 years and 100,000 miles without any problem at all. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    8-85 (PDF page 469)
  8. V7Goose
    That fault code is a bad vacuum pump. I do not know if it actually tests the pump, or just senses that there is no vacuum at the motor. I'd check the connections to the pump as well as the vacuum line for leaks. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    It makes no difference at all - all the vacuum ports have the same vacuum, so those two lines to the AIS valves could be connected to any two of the four. If you look at the lines, you will see that one comes from the front of the bike, so you would generally connect that to the rear vacuum port on the right side, and the other line comes from the rear of the bike, so it will fit best to the front vacuum port on the left. But like I said at first, it really makes no difference at all - just connect them to whatever port is convenient for you. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Almost 0% chance that the AIS valves are bad in any way - don't waste your time chasing those. 88.7% chance the vacuum nipple caps have gotten old an are leaking, or maybe one of the two vacuum lines on the other nipples have gotten cut by taking them off with pliers (happens a lot). To check the caps, you have to take them off and bend them hard - any signs of cracking at all means they are bad. Check for vacuum leaks first, then exhaust leaks around each header and at the Y joints. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    See post #4 in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58575
  12. V7Goose
    See my edited post above for where you can get the Giesler stand. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    This is the stand that I use - made by Giesler Engineering: http://www.themotorcyclestand.com/ They have changed it since mine was made, but mine looks exactly like the orange one labeled CSS1000 in the picture that shows for #2 on the bottom of that page where it says "What's Your Stand?" That specific stand is not the same as the CS1000 stand shown on their products page. Although I like mine better - I suspect their SS1000 model will work just as good. The handle shape and placement on that Heindl stand from J&P cycles looks a bit strange, and they do not show it in use. I think I'd buy the Geisler stand instead if I needed a new one. Note that there is only ONE place to use the stnadard stand on our bike - just behind the transmission. If you want to be able to position it either front or back to raise either tire, you would need their drop-center model SSH-1000. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Yes, that stand will work just fine - I use a maintenance stand similar to that. You position it so that the cross bar is right next to the strange bent center tab on the frame just behind the transmission. The only real question is how tall it is (and they do not say) - but they DO list the RSTD in the compatible bike list. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I think it is fine because all I had to do was go into the User CP Edit Options and Exclude that links forum from the Get New Posts search, just like I do for all the other frivolous forums. But on a relates subject, why doesn't the Honda Refrigerator tech forum show up in the Exclude list???? Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I just ain't gonna believe 51 MPG on one of these bikes. That number is high, even for a pipe dream! But your numbers sound an awful lot like you are running on three instead of four. Not a lot to "rebuild" in these carbs, assuming you are not leaking gas anywhere. I'd check to make sure all the choke plungers are going fully in, measure the plug cap resistance (should be around 10K ohms each) and pull all the diaphragms and check them carefully for holes. Then if everything looks good, do a fingertip cold-start test to see if all the jugs are lit at idle. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Sure sorry to hear about all your problems. No matter how nice and hard working your dealer seems to be, I cannot help but assume the mechanic is incompetent. The problems you describe with your bike should be VERY easy to diagnose and fix - even in the unlikely event that there are several things wrong instead of just one. Wish you were closer so I could help. As for just dumping the bike and buying something different - obviously that is your decision to make - just search your heart to try and be sure you will not always regret it if you decide to take something that is not what you really want. The Goldwing may be a great choice for you - but only you will know; if you think you are "settling" just because you couldn't find someone to fix the bike, it will haunt you the whole time you own it. Goose BTW - even if I personally loved the Goldwing (and I do not), I would think a 2006 wing straight across for a 2009 RSV would be egregious theft by the dealer, and charging another $500 on top of that jut blows my mind. Of course, value is in the eye of the beholder, and I'm sure the wing lovers will disagree with me!
  18. V7Goose
    The condition of the jets can have absolutely nothing to do with smelling fuel in the oil. Depending on how bad it was and how long the bike had been run before that change, the smell might have been normal. Alternatively, it could indicate that the bike had been occasionally started and idled a while during the winter (always a BAD idea), or a leaking float valve. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    I cannot provide legal advice, nor do I pretend to actually know the details of the handicap parking laws in all states, but I'll give you my thoughts anyway. First, if your permit is current and actually issued to any person using the specific vehicle, it will be completely legal, no matter what the vehicle is or where it is registered. One of the main reasons for moveable permits is so the handicapped person can take it with them to different vehicles. If the permit is issued for a specific vehicle instead of just for a specific person (such as a license plate), then it must only be used on that vehicle. And even with a valid handicapped plate on the vehicle, it is still not legal (or appropriate) to park in a handicapped spot unless the handicapped person is currently in that vehicle. Now in general, I do not think anyone ever looks too closely at a vehicle in a handicapped space if it is displaying any type of handicapped placard. A handicapped plate on a motorcycle is a little more problematic only because many people do not see it or even look for it - they see a bike in a handicapped spot and just assume it should not be there. But you would never get a ticket with a valid handicapped plate on a bike. I have handicapped plates on both my truck and my bike. I occasionally need to ask people to look at the plate on the bike, but that is the extent of it. I have an old, expired, out-of-state mirror placard that I use when I drive my wife's car. That placard is clearly NOT legal for use in a handicapped spot (because it is expired), but I use it anyway simply because I know I am otherwise authorized to park there, I do not want my wife's car to have permanent handicapped plates, and I know that just seeing a blue mirror tag with a handicapped symbol on it is sufficient for just about anybody looking. I have never had a problem using that old placard. Doesn't mean I won't have a problem with it tomorrow, but it supports the idea that you won't have any problem either, ESPECIALLY since your placard won't be expired! Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Something is wrong, but it may not be too serious. You did not give us any information on what bike you have, but I can provide some general thoughts that would apply to anything with completely separate L/R exhausts. BTW - unless you put separate exhausts on that truck yourself, dual pipes are almost never true separate systems. The lack of steam on both sides is not particularly worrisome because the conditions may have been just marginal for that. But a pronounced difference in heat is significant. This indicates one or more cylinders on that side are not fully contributing to the engine at that time. The most likely cause is partially plugged pilot jets in one or both carbs. The fingertip test on the headers would let you isolate the specific cylinder(s). But you need to wait until the temps are warm enough to do a cold start without the choke on. You also may have one or more choke or enrichment circuits not fully shutting off (since you said this was observed with the choke off). That would also be consistent with both symptoms. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Fact 1: The 2nd gen will absolutely NOT pop or bang on deceleration in completely stock trim unless something is WRONG with your bike. Fact2: The Air Induction System (AIS) is a passive system that reduces pollution without impacting the performance or economy of your bike in any way. Fact 3: The AIS WILL cause popping and afterburn to start sooner if something DOES GO WRONG with your bike. In this way it acts like an early warning device that something needs to be fixed. That "something" can be either an exhaust leak, vacuum leak, carb problem, or ignition problem. Considering the above three facts, IMHO, doing anything to disable the AIS is about as intelligent as putting electrical tape over your low oil warning light because you just don't want to know there is a problem with your bike! (Yes, I know that no one in this thread suggested tampering with the AIS, but I just could not help myself with that comment! ) The main point of this post is simply to stress that any and all popping and banging on deceleration on this bike indicates a real problem that needs to be addressed. The details on the possible causes and how to find them are included in exhaustive details in older threads. If interested. look for posts by me with the key word "afterfire". Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Loctite Threadlockers and many plastics lead to very sad owners. With ABS plastics it slowly disintegrates the plastic which begins to crack, then crumble. Never EVER apply Loctite directly to plastic, and I strongly recommend you NEVER use it on any fastener that even passes through plastic and into a metal part. It is just not worth the potential grief. We report this information in various threads here every year, but inevitably we see sad stories from some people who just do not get the message. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Loctite Threadlockers and many plastics lead to very sad owners. With ABS plastics it slowly disintegrates the plastic which begins to crack, then crumble. Never EVER apply Loctite directly to plastic, and I strongly recommend you NEVER use it on any fastener that even passes through plastic and into a metal part. It is just not worth the potential grief. We report this information in various threads here every year, but inevitably we see sad stories from some people who just do not get the message. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    No no no! NEVER use Loctite near ABS plastic. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    I personally only recommend the factory Yamaha rack. I think it looks best, but more importantly, the long plates that fit between the front and back mounting points are important for structural integrity of the trunk lid. You will find plenty of people who are happy with the Goldwing rack and have used it without cracking, but you can also find owners who wish they had never tried it. If you cannot find the stock Yamaha rack now, or just want to go with something else, make sure you use large fender washers BOTH inside and outside the lid at each hole to reduce the stress and chance of cracking (and they need to be slightly dished to match the contour of the trunk lid - if they are just flat, they will increases the stress). Goose
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