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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Dave, just get on that darned thing and ride it up here - I'll show you how to wire it all up any way you want. We can get it all done over a beer or two (but you gotta bring the beer)! Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Personally, I have absolutely NO concerns about the RSV windshield mounting system (other than those weenie little plastic tabs that break off the inside fairing, but I have documented an easy fix for those in the tech library). I find the mounting system very secure. Even when those little tabs are broken, the shield is not less secure - the bracket and shield just flex together a bit more on the sides. First, before someone starts yelling about how the mounting bracket is just too thin to provide proper security for the screw threads, they REALLY should actually look at it! The screws are NOT threaded directly into the bracket - there are FULL SIZED NUTS welded onto the rear of the bracket! And the stock screws are long enough to go completely through those nuts. I just had my windshield off this weekend, so I paid particular attention to all the things that people seem to be so afraid of in this thread. IMHO, the existing bracket with rubber strip provides a tight friction fit between the windshield and the fairing even when the screws are loose to remove the windshield. No, that does NOT mean I think it would hold the shield in place if the screws were left loose, just that there is PLENTY of surface area to completely secure the shield when the screws are properly tightened. I would not want a shield with all holes and no slots for the screws - that would make it unnecessarily difficult to install the shield. I wouldn't have any complaints if there were two holes instead of just one, but I don't really feel the need for it either. When my shield is attached, there is absolutely no way I could pull or wiggle it loose. My last comment is on a slightly different note. When I high-sided my 05 last summer by sliding into a curb, I went THROUGH the windshield (stock shield cut down by 1.5"). The top edge hit me square in the collar bone and shattered it good (you can still see the permanent dent in the soft armor of my Joe Rocket jacket). But the force of my body did bend the shield forward and rip it from the mounting, tearing some of the ABS plastic in the outside fairing shell where the screws held it. Even with this, the shield did NOT come completely off the bike! The corner of the shield where the one hole is in the middle was broken off and the shield came loose from the center and right sides, but it was still held on by the mounting screws on the left side. I think that is pretty good evidence that the existing mounting system is kinda secure! You certainly do not need to share my confidence in this, but the sky isn't falling either! Goose
  3. V7Goose
    See post #3 in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20142&highlight=bulb Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I have not personally used it, but I have seen several reports from others that said it was total garbage. Just thought I'd pass that on. Goose
  5. V7Goose

    Hey Steve, sorry I didn't see your message earlier - I must have overlooked it while I was on the road. Yes, we are close - I'm just off 26 and Hall Johnson.

     

    I'd love to meet you and do some bench racin'. And I'd be happy to look at your bike when we can get together. I'm heading up to Eureka Springs tomorrow, then out to a rally in north Georgia the last week of the month. Ride safe,

    Kent

  6. V7Goose

    I can't really explain why you only see moisture in one pipe, but it is not because the bike is on the stand unless there is something on that side keeping the metal a bit warmer. If you have an IR thermometer you could always measure the temperature of the pipes before you start the bike to see if they are the same temperature. There IS moisture in the other one, but it is not condensing out for some reason. I'm sure it will as the temps get cooler. It is possible that one of the cylinders on the right side is running considerably more rich, causing the difference. If you haven't cleaned the inside of those chrome tips, do so until the chrome is bright again, then wait and watch over the next couple of tanks of gas. The developing color of the exhaust deposits should be the same and light brown. If they are sooty black, definitely running rich, if light gray, too lean. You can't tune the engine based on that info, just a general guideline on condition. As long as the bike is running good and getting typical gas mileage, I wouldn't worry about it at all.

     

    Yes, I do all my own work. I just look at sources and think until I find something that gives me an idea, then I start figuring out how to do it. My biggest problem is that I am a cheap bastard, so my first shot at some things are not always as polished as they could be! I'm always looking for low prices and good deals. Most of my lights came from either JC Whitney or Superbrightleds.com.

  7. V7Goose
    This is pretty common with the left front turn signal when passing lights are mounted. Water runs down the bar and into the slot on the back of the mount. Best solution is to goop up the gaps and holes with silicone or hot melt glue. Not sure why the water causes the bulb to burn out, but that happens a lot too. The only one I had burn out was the left front after it got water in it! Don't waste money on Yamahaha bulbs. If your 04 uses the hokey three-pin base bulbs, just use a normal 1157 and knock off one of the pins to index it correctly. I have documented this in other old threads, so do a search. Good luck, Goose
  8. V7Goose
    I bought my visors for all lights from JC Whitney (head light, passing lights, signals, brake/tail light). Had them on for over 50,000 miles with no signs of rust or tarnish. Good quality and MUCH cheaper than the Yamahaha stuff. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    This problem is not uncommon, as others above noted. Most often we have found that it is caused by poor connection in the plug for the control head. Plug and unplug it several times (inside the fairing) to clean the surface oxidation off the pins, then put some dielectric grease on them to prevent future problems. BUT, I have also discovered a design flaw in the system that is very similar. I say it is a design flaw because I have experienced it on several RSVs with identical symptoms. This only happens when using BOTH the CB and radio/cass/aux system at the same time. The symptoms are simple to detect - while the display is set to the audio side (not on CB), none of the buttons work. If you adjust the volume, you will see a little "c" next to the number in the display, indicating it is actually adjusting the CB volume even though it should not. The only way to get out of this problem is to briefly turn off either the radio or the CB, then turn it back on - then all will work fine. I have been unable to find a way to reproduce this problem on demand. It USUALLY happens after starting the bike with both the CB and radio on (and the control head displaying the radio, not the CB), but even then it may only happen 20% of the time. It may be happening much more frequently than I know, since I often ride for many hours without touching any buttons or the volume. When the problem is happening, the CB and radio/aux input all work perfectly except for the buttons. I have found that I can occasionally induce the problem by quickly switching between radio and CB while hitting other buttons, such as jumping over to the CB to turn up the squelch, then back to the radio, back to the CB, etc. That is probably overly long and confusing. Bottom line is that if you trying to adjust the radio/aux volume and see the "c" in the display, you are seeing this problem. If it is a design flaw in the radio as I believe, caused by a timing issue between the CB and radio when used together, then the dealers will not be able to fix it, no matter how many things they replace. If I can ever find a way to reproduce it at will, I will try to push the issue with Yamahaha. I find it irritating but livable. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Here is a brief write-up and pictures I did on another site several years ago - looks like the one I originally put here was lost in our great crash of 06! Goose http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002004&id=288
  11. V7Goose
    The Yamahaha instructions that come with their lights specifically instruct you to install them by tapping into the existing light circuits (they show options to have them on all the time, only with LB, or only with HB - your choice). I am NOT suggesting that this is correct, just that it proves that the existing fuse is large enough to handle all the lights as long as they are the factory supplied bulbs. I know their sealed beam bulbs are only 35W, but I have never personally looked at the H3 bulbs to verify the wattage on them. I personally absolutely disagree with the mickey mouse way they want these lights wired in. Even though the fuse can handle it, the extra load on the ignition switch and chance of loosing all lights together is not wise. Strongly suggest powering them from a standard driving light relay on a new aux circuit that is triggered from whichever headlight circuit you desire. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    I have never looked at the inside connector for that cable (wish I had known yesterday when I had my fairing split), in fact, I'm not even sure if it terminates inside the fairing or under the tank. But anyway, I'd guess that the end is a normal male plug. Here is another option that is a LOT cheaper. Only thing you don't get for about $20 less is the weather cap.: http://www.universal-radio.com/CATALOG/parts/dincable.html See part #2541 The picture is actually of a male/male cable, so don't be misled by that. And CDW has them for $5: http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/default.aspx?EDC=069184 Or $2 here: http://www.winfordeng.com/products/extd.php OK, that is enough - you can do those searches as well as I can! Goose
  13. V7Goose
    That plug is a standard 5-pin DIN socket, so you have lots of options. You can buy a socket at any electronics store like Frys or Radio Shack and just solder it on to replace the old one. You can also look for an old computer keyboard that used those big jacks before the PS2 plug became the standard. Another option is an extension cable for those old keyboards. You can probably order what you want from Mouser Electronics here in the DFW area - find their web site and do a little research. Although they are mostly a wholesaler and bulk component supplier, they will sell directly to you from their web site. Last option, ride it on down here and bring some beer to drink and I'll be happy to fix it up for ya! Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Any visor for a 7" headlight will work. You have to split the fairing and take the chrome ring off by bending the tabs. The ring will be a little difficult to get back on over the visor, but it works. Just make sure you properly bend the tabs completely back down or you will find yourself splitting the fairing again in a week or two to fix it! Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Sounds like you have already taught this shyster that you ain't gonna do anything but complain, so it is unlikely anything will work now except taking him to court. The sooner the better. When you win, he will have to pay your legal fees too; your lawyer will know enough to include these in the complaint. I just hope you got a receipt when you dropped them off so you can prove he has them. The stupid excuse that he gave them to someone else and can't get them back is really asinine. He is still responsible, so if he can't get them back, he has to get replacements for you in the same condition. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    The only thing abnormal here is that you only see the moisture on one side. One of the byproducts of combustion is water. When the temperatures are cold, that is why you see clouds of steam and dripping water coming out of the auto tail pipes in the morning when everyone is heading to work. The moisture in the hot exhaust condenses on the cool pipes just like water does on the outside of a glass of ice water. After the engine and exhaust are fully heated up, this moisture has nothing to condense on, so you don't see it as it is just blown out with the rest of the gasses. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    And the fuses for both the front and rear aux power plugs are in the one inside the right front cowling. And make sure you don't increase the size of the fuse (only 5 amps, I believe); the wiring to those power plugs is small. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    I can and have repaired the J&M cords and helmet jacks. It is not easy, as the rubber coating often has to be slit and pealed off to access the wires. Then the wires and pins are VERY small, so takes a bit of finesse to work on. Putting it all back together is the toughest part, and it doesn't always look quite as neat as it started. The problems are not always broken wires - the female pins can get worn out too, causing the plug to cut in and out just from poor contact. There are things that can be done for that too. But I can fix them, and will do so for free. All I ask is that you cover the cost of postage. Within US, that is no more than $5. If you want to send it to me, just send me a PM and I'll give you my address. I strongly suggest you send the entire headset AND both cords, as the problems are not always where you think (and often in multiple places). When they first start cutting out, fiddling with the cords to pinpoint the problem or try and get them working again often causes more problems! Goose
  19. V7Goose
    I completely agree. I knew I should have dumped that thread with the pictures instead of just trying to post a nice warning. My bad. We need to have a standing policy that we dump them immediately upon spotting them, regardless of the details of the current content or how nice they start out. If that is clearly stated up front and followed by all of us, then the few who are disturbed by it will have a harder time trying to claim that we are reacting just because we don't agree with their views. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    IMHO, there should never be any problem getting complete bead seal on any tire so long as the rim is properly cleaned and not damaged. I change my own tires, so I personally know the condition of my rims. I find that Every time I dismount one there is a residue of rough rubber gunk in places around the rim. Not chunks or anything, but not glass smooth either. I use course steel wool to scrub the rim edges clean before every new tire, then lube the tire bead up good to ensure a proper seat. You also need to carefully check the little lines in the tire around the rim to make sure they are all perfectly concentric. It is not uncommon at all for a tire to not completely seat, and that not only can cause slow leak, but it affects handling too. This is often a cause of why someone feels a new tire just doesn't feel right, but they never figure out what is worng. If it is just a hair off in one spot, you will never detect it unless you look directly at those little lines near the edge. But a small amount of dish soap mixed with water in an 8 oz squeeze bottle will show up even a tiny leak as long as you squeeze it on without making bubbles. I use an old squeeze bottle that had contact lens solution in it. Makes it real easy to aim a gentle stream of soapy water right on the edge of the rim and let it run around the tire. As for the valve stem, just spit a little on the tip of your finger and wipe it on the top of the stem. If the core is leaking even the smallest amount you will see it bulge up and pop the film. If you are gonna ride with a known leak, even a small one, be darn careful! Those things can get much worse faster than you think. Make sure you check the air at LEAST once a day!! Goose
  21. V7Goose

    Air Deflectors

    V7Goose replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    A few of us have chrome WindWings that mount to one of the front dog-bone bolts and position along the tank just in front of your knees. They used to be available from DiamondR, but not any more. Keep your eyes posted and you might find a set used. My brother is looking for them too! Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Absolutely not correct. You won't hear it from anywhere unless the leak is so fast you can feel the air blow on your hand. Use slightly soapy water to find it. A little on the open valve stem will verify if it is good. My bet is that the rim was not properly cleaned before mounting the new tire, so you want to carefully squirt a little at the edge of the rim as you rotate the wheel and let it run around. ANY hint of bubbling at all is a problem. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Can you elaborate? I know nothing about that particular product, but the idea sounds good. Why do you state it has those limitations? Goose
  24. V7Goose
    I can't explain what caused the differences you saw in how many miles per gallons you got on one tank of gas, but I will confidently say that you are completely wasting your money from buying fuel of a higher octane than your engine requires. Of the MANY things that can cause changes in miles per gallon, octane is NOT one of them. Good luck figuring it out. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    I never put anything on a new gasket PROVIDED the mating surfaces are in perfect shape, as they should be. If someone has scratched and gouged them up from trying to get off an old gasket (perhaps because it was glued on?), then a good brand of sealant is called for. I prefer to never use a silicone type sealant no matter what the problem since the excess that is squeezed out of the joint, even if quite small, can easily get sucked into an oil line and block it. Bottom line is that no new gasket should ever leak if the surfaces are smooth and nothing is warped (assuming the bolts are torqued correctly). Goose
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