Jump to content

camos

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,232

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by camos

  1. camos
    To answer my own question, the RLU is indeed attached by a rubber sleeve to a tab just as it looks like in the parts fiche. The stiction was likely due to old rubber that had not been moved in 20+ years. All it took to loosen it was a bit of muscle and an incantation "Move you SOB." There is more to removing the RLU though since there is not enough room to get it off the tab. The tab is welded to a bar that holds some relays. The screws that hold the bar have to be accessed from inside so the CMS has to come out. I jumpered the RLU connector as per the info in FF's instructions and photo but got the same result as JoeKanuck. Will likely resolve the issue in the same way too. Thanks JK.
  2. camos
    I want to remove the RLU from the bike but have not quite figured out how it is mounted. The pic in the parts fiche looks like there is a rubber holder sleeve that slips over a metal tab. The trouble is the RLU does not move at all so I'm wondering if it truly is just stuck or if it is mounted differently from how I think it might be.
  3. camos
    You requested cheap although these are not in that category but I think you get what you pay for so thought they are worth mentioning. In July I got the [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Sena-SMH10D-Bluetooth-Helmet-Communication/dp/B0054CVBKC/ref=pd_sim_auto_1]Amazon.com: Sena SMH10D Bluetooth Helmet Communication System (Pack of 2): Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41DW6%2Bv33xL.@@AMEPARAM@@41DW6%2Bv33xL[/ame] on Amazon.com which is the dual intercom system. They work very well. So far I have only used the intercom side of them but the speaker sound seems like it would be good for music. An MP3 player can be plugged directly into the helmet device with the common 1/8 jack or plugged into the USB port. The helmets paired together with no fuss as well as to an older cell phone (non-smart phone). The rechargeable battery lasted for us about 10 hrs and took about 2 1/2 hrs to recharge over night. Each headset comes with a 12v power point type charger which can be used while riding. WebBikeWorld.com did a review on it and along with a bunch of others including a few of the less expensive ones which might be helpful to you. For us this headset has been a wonderful addition to our rides and is worth every penny it cost. I'm very seriously considering getting the Sena SM10 Stereo Audio Adapter which will connect 3 different audio sources and transmit to the Bluetooth headsets so those devices can be shared with both riders.
  4. camos
    When I was 13 at sea cadet camp I put a Navy issue condom on a shower head and turned on the water. It streatched about 6' to the floor and was about 3' in diameter. Unfortunately this does not answer your question since I was pursuaded to pop it rather than risk flooding out the heads. Thought it was quite amazing at the time.
  5. camos
    I'm in for one as well. Thanks Brian.
  6. camos
    I'm interested too.
  7. camos
    Instead of lowering the pegs why not move them ahead? It has been done before when guys have chopped the Venture.
  8. camos
    The only time this would work is if the lower triple clamp was loosened, which you may have done. In such a case the proper way to reassemble the forks would be to set the height of the top triple clamp level with the top of the forks and tighten it. Then tighten the steering head nut. Then tighten the lower triple clamp. There is no good reason for you to be stuck with having the forks higher in the triple tree than the stock setting. You can of course choose to have the forks set higher than stock. The choice should be yours and not left to happenstance.
  9. camos
    I had read your little tidbit of advice in a prior thread and as a result, took care when reassembling so that no wires managed to get caught or pinched. It is little, seemingly insignificant or obvious tips like that which often turn out to be so very important when doing a job. Thanks for taking the time to throw in a few small words of wisdom. The harness I am looking for may very well go into the headlight area but I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing. The ignition key switch mounted to the front of the top triple tree has a bundle of wires coming out of it about 8" long that terminate in a red connector. This connector, on my bike at least, floats around in the fork area and is visible almost all the time. The wiring does not appear to be long enough for the connector to have been in the headlight area. Of course one never knows what a PO has done. The wires from the switch to the connector are in a protective cover. I must have tucked the harness end out of the way while I was maneuvering the triple tree to remove it. The point being, the connector I am looking for would not likely have been near the front of the headlight area. However, it may possibly come out above the shield that separates the fork area from the headlight area. Perhaps when I tucked it away it fell out of sight behind the shield into the headlight area if that is where it came from. If it came from the TCI area then it could be dangling somewhere down by the rad.
  10. camos
    Hmmm... 64 views and nothing... oh well. The ignition most likely connects to the TCI so now would be a good time to relocate it and will hopefully find the other end of the ignition switch connector at the same time.
  11. camos
    After reinstalling the forks and top triple tree clamp I can't find the harness end of the ignition plug. It's red and should stand out like Santa Claus at the beach but I've spent over an hour poking around in there and could not find it. Where should I look for the harness end?
  12. camos

    Speed Wobble

    camos replied to Hoss's topic in Watering Hole

    Instead of putting a damper on it would be better to fix whatever is causing the wobble. A stiffer fork brace will address most of the OEM weakness in the forks. Other than that issue, anything causing a wobble at speed is something that is not working properly.
  13. camos
    After reading your thread and seeing the forks could be removed without taking the fairing off, I decided to drop the forks to grease the bearings but I'm having some difficulty getting the right grill out. Pulled the two screws but the rear end of it does not seem to want to come out like it did on the left grill. Got some advice on how to do that?
  14. camos
    Just before my trip to Nelson I picked up a Sena SMH10 Bluetooth dual headset primarily for its intercom features. It is early days so far but it worked really well for the 5 days of our trip and for our weekend day trips since then. The battery had no problem lasting for 10 hours during the day and only took about 2 1/2 hours to fully recharge at night. Each headset came with a wall charger and a power point charger that can be used during operation if necessary. The above may be a bit off topic but the headset will connect directly to an MP3 player and to a cell phone, radar detector and GPS through bluetooth. The Sena SM10 Dual Stream Bluetooth Stereo Transmitter get's it right back on track though. This dandy device can be plugged into a radio, MP3 player and even directly into a five pin DIN connector to interface with the Venture Royal and Goldwing OEM non Bluetooth audio equipment. It will support dual streaming so both headsets can listen to the same audio source. There is also a variation of the device for bikes that do not come with a CB, the SR10 Bluetooth Two-way Radio Adapter which will connect to two way radios. Opens up a whole new world of possibilities don't-cha think?
  15. camos
    Thanks Rick, that's a big help.
  16. camos
    That is the one I have as well. One of the turn signal bulbs is not working but otherwise there are two bulbs as running lights and two as brake lights. Hmmm... that is part of the problem. I have read use a heat gun and also don't use a heat gun. How did you actually go about separating the lens, heat and pry with a knife blade or screwdriver? Talk about stress, these things are now pretty much irreplaceable. In the link below Jeff mentions, apparently, using 3528SMD LEDs whereas you chose to use 5050SMD LEDs. Do you know what the difference is? Hah! Good one.
  17. camos
    I have been thinking of doing that but keep putting it off because of the difficulty in getting the lens cover off. Seems every time I touch plastic it ends up getting broken. How did you get yours off?
  18. camos
    Certainly is a guy's (bloke's to you) vision of Heaven but I rather doubt the North American "Sheilas" would agree with this premise since they have spent a century or more beating this concept out of us guys/blokes.
  19. camos
    Well, it is much easier to flip a switch by the throttle than reach down somewhere out of sight to turn a valve. Dropping a cylinder on the Virago is not such a big problem in the same way dropping two cylinders on the Venture is not really debilitating. Also, this was designed by Japanese engineers so the more complex the better and probably not with the litigious Excited States of America in mind. You are most welcome.
  20. camos
    Not sure if I have an answer to your questions and don't know anything about the bikes mentioned but my Virago has a setup somewhat similar to what was mentioned. There is no reserve switch but there is a reserve area in the tank. When the main tank runs out of fuel there is a circuit that cuts the ignition to one of the cylinders and turns on a red warning light in the instrument display. The ignition cutout can be turned off with a switch which allows the engine to run normally once again leaving only the warning light lit. This gives the rider a heads up to get fuel that cannot be ignored. Of course, leaving the switch in the reserve position disables the ignition cutout warning and if the warning light is burned out then when the engine sputters you will be riding shank's mare to the gas station. Not very high tech and easily circumvented on purpose or by accident but effective if used as it was meant to be.
  21. camos
    I had the same question when I found my 90 VR did not come with a reserve faceplate and switch. The shaft needs to be turned fully CCW to put the switch in the reserve position. See this link courtesy of frankd for a pic of the switch without the knob in the reserve position. See this link courtesy of painterman67 for a pic of the switch with the knob and faceplate as it would look if you had one. Aren't these guys just the greatest bunch you could have ever run into?
  22. camos
    As stated earlier I put my R/R in the left faring where the cassette used to be. I'm thinking seriously about moving it, probably to the space behind the rear cylinders as Tim mentioned although I also liked the under trunk position. I'd have to look it up to be sure but as I recall, without cooling the R/R will supply 27 amps and with cooling it is more but can't remember how much. To move it I'll need to get 2 more spade connectors that will fit the R/R plug. Anyone know where those connectors can found?
  23. camos
    Me too, old fashioned that is. Never had a problem getting the air out but haven't had that much experience at it either. Bled the brakes on two different cars and 3 different bikes without a problem. Mentioned this once before on this forum and got no response so figured I managed to offend someone. Perhaps I'm just lucky but anyway, thought I would mention it again cuz it seems to work and the topic has come up. Attach a clear hose to the bleeder that goes up 3" to 6" before turning down into a bottle with some brake fluid covering the end of the hose. Crack the bleeder then pump the master cylinder. Fluid will rise in the tube to the top of the curve before running down into the bottle. Any air bubbles can easily be seen as can the colour of the fluid if all that is being done is to replace the old fluid. As long as a little time is allowed for any air bubbles to make their way to the top of the curve, there is no problem with sucking anything significant back into the bleeder while pumping so I have found it is not necessary to tighten the bleeder between pumps. Just make sure the hose is properly sized so it grips the bleeder valve securely. Once all you get is clear fluid with no bubbles, tighten the bleeder and move on to the next segment or bleeder valve farther away from the MC. For what it is worth, that has been my experience.
  24. camos
    Haven't got the fairing back together yet but the new stator and regulator are in place and and seem to be working well. Looks like I will be off Kruzin the Kootenays tomorrow. Wanted to extend a very big thank you for all the help I received doing this project. Get the picture? It's the best I can come up with.
  25. camos
    @ Timgray That is exactly where I was thinking. Looks like a fairly easy place to attach a plate on the left side at least although the rear master is in the way on the right side. Might , probably will, move it there when I have more time. @ frankd As I mentioned, last night, mounted it in the left fairing. It is flat enough, almost perfect in fact. Burned a couple of holes with a soldering iron and used some large self tapping screws. Haven't tried to put the cassette back in yet though but expect it will not fit. Have to come up with a temporary cover. @ skydoc Under the trunk looked like a good place too but thought it would take too much time. Supposed to be leaving for Kruzin the Kootenays tomorrow. Not sure I'm going to make my schedule but had an extra day planned for the trip so should still be able to get there on time. You know if you guys would spend more time on forum and less time sleeping all this good information would have gotten to me before I had to make up my mind on my own. Thanks for all the input.
×
×
  • Create New...