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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. Seaking
    I'll toss in a few coins for this one.. Carbs out of sink vibes tend to show up in the mirrors.. if your mirrors show the car behind you as a fuzzy blob, chances are (A) mirror mounts are loose or (B) carbs out of synch. This would also lend to some hand buzzing, making them go numb. Anytime you change anything on the bike, oil, plugs, air filters, clutch even, best to do a carb synch.. Excessive? perhaps.. I'm sure the better techs out there will tell you it's over kill but meh, it only takes a few minutes if you have the kit and you end up with a smoother ride. But in the past, even with a nicely done up carb synch, I ended up with weird vibes. Strangely enough, a fuel filter change quelled one vibe, while a new fuel pump quelled yet another odd vibe.. Today I installed a heavy duty clutch and found a lot of my hard to resolve vibes are now gone. I have to ride on rough roads to get a familiar feel to the bike Check your luggage as well.. I had tightened down everything and still couldn't get rid of that one buzz feeling and noise until someone pointed out to put an extra turn on the trunk lid hinges.. and that resolved it. In short, vibes come from anywhere and everywhere, there are the usual culprits, but I've found that just going around tweaking this and that, bolt, screw, nut etc goes a long way.. Best of luck!
  2. Seaking
    DITTO! I have one and used it twice, and I would consider THOSE two times as a worthwhile investment.. =) Everyone should have one.. so they'd stop borrowing mine hehehe
  3. Seaking
    I do a lot of carb synching for my friends here and I have a slightly different approach to it.. I don't have a tach and can't seem to get one locally and can't get one shipped from the USA because apparently these are a matter of 'National Security" no joke.. seriously. However, I set the idle screw up till the revs are up more than normal and start the tweaks. Your 2nd image is spot on, nice across the board. I give the throttle a small blip, just enough to jump the carb tune pins but not to slam them to the top!.. And adjust them again.. and do it again.. and again.. and then some more.. blip, adjust.. blip.. let it settle.. adjust blip settle adjust.. turn it off and start it up and get it as close as possible.. Honestly not sure if being THAT tedious with the adjustment is worthy of the effort but we did a test on a buddy's bike that was horribly out of synch.. I showed him how to do it.. and he took it out for a ride and LOVED it.. then I did what I normally do, the tedious slowing time consuming way and sent him out for a test ride.. and he loved it even more.. So I guess it does add a wee bit more over the whole deal.. or not. Hard to tell.. Funny enough, a buddy of mine used to be a sonarman in submarines and can set idle on his bike just by listening to it.. and get it within 25 rpm LOL.. no joke.. VTwins and V4's.. odd
  4. Seaking
    I'll tell ya ONE thing, the idiot who wired MY highway lights oughta be shot and hung out to dry.. damn near killed me when a short took out all of my lights and the only thing that saved me from kissing that guard rail was quick thinking of hitting the 4 way flashers! Highway lights, for me anyway, aren't that great a way to illuminate the road ahead of you, but do a great deal to light up the sides closer to you and ahead a bit, to spot critters and such.. however the best benefit they have is to give you that one great big blob of light appearance to oncoming traffic.. makes you more noticeable. So why turn them off with the high beam coming on? weird.. I'm going to have mine re-wired onto their own circuit so that if they or the headlight goes out, I don't lose 'everything' again..
  5. Seaking
    I forgot to ask you learned mechanics out there.. I did video and photo my work today on the clutch in case I got lost or had to remind myself of something.. and I noticed my clutch hyd line is stuck under the fairing. I have the 2in risers on the bike so that means the fairing doesn't sit against those rubber stops anymore. I had noticed the fairing being closer to the LEFT highway light for some ODD reason and I think I figure out WHY.. When I was in PA and the shop fixed the fuel pump issue, the mech accidently broke something on my audio controller and they took the new one off the 2009 show model and replace the busted one on my bike, requiring the removal and re-installation of the fairing. I'm guessing that in the installation of the fairing, the clutch hose got caught under the fairing on top of that rubber bumper causing the fairing to sit crooked a bit.. not much but enough to be noticed.. And the hose is pinched enough that i can't move it by hand, most likely going to require the fairing to be removed again.. This IS going to sound like one of those stupid questions but is there any way that the clutch control hyd hose being pinched causing any of the previous clutch problems, such as the additional wind pressure pushing down hard enough onto the line to cause a slight dis-engagement of the clutch itself?? Weird but then again, so was that fuel pump snag in PA.. I need to remove the fairing this weekend anyway to chase down a loose wire so I'll now have time to sort out that hose.. reroute it properly.. What have others done to properly support the fairing after installing bigger risers? Thoughts?
  6. Seaking
    Alrighty then.. yes, it is THAT simple to install, once you know what you're looking for and the heck they're referring to in the instructions.. Some of these instructions are written by people who know what THEY are talking about and assume you do too.. for the most cases, this is OK but for the uninitiated, it can be intimidating. However, there was nothing wrong with the PCW instructions, I simply didn't know what they were talking about lol.. I had never seen the inside of a clutch on a bike before.. Sprag clutches on a planetary gear box, easy. Bike clutch? man.. caught me there. But at the end of the day I have a new clutch installed and it's not leaking lol.. oooh bonus points there. The HARDEST part of the whole job was trying to figure out just what the heck they were referring to about the wire, and getting that last frikken washer disk out of the very back of the clutch housing.. oil had suctioned it right to the back of the housing lol.. grrr. My first test ride however was mixed .. I got on the highway and dropped the hammer.. and dang, there it is again.. clutch slipping.. oh wait a tic.. that's not a slipping clutch causing me not to accelerate anymore.. that's the REV Limiter!! wow.. talk about hauling assets!! Caught me by surprise I have to admit. I now have to get used to the feel of the friction zone on this clutch.. the grip is harder, the zone much smaller.. it REALLY wants to engage quick now. I do have to be careful. I almost launched myself into a car in a parking lot.. sproing!! I had a LOT of control over the clutch in parking lots before changing it.. now? ouch. But man it's a lot smoother I found.. didn't feel like it wanted to jump much.. solid. But tight little friction zone.. Steel plates still had their cross hatch marks on them from previous sanding.. I'm not sure if that's 'factory' or someone else. The gasket seemed to have had a silicone caulk around it.. looked factory installed. The friction plates were very dark.. burnt looking. Of the steel plates, only one had any yellowing to it.. the others looked quite clean but none of them looked glazed what so ever. I had opted to swap out all of the friction plates for peace of mind but I can see what Goose was saying as it wasn't required.. 70 INCH pounds of torque.. wow, that's NOT a lot of torque on those 10mm bolts.. has me somewhat niggly about it.. i did a couple highway runs and city runs with the new clutch and I can tell you that it seriously smoothed out the bike a lot! I'm guessing the plates were 'chattering' a lot causing odd sensations.. 5th gear cruising at highway speeds is SO much smoother now.. and I can actually accelerate properly in 5th.. (70 mph upwards.).. But drop it into 4th and drop the hammer.. fun =) Thanks to PCW for the keen clutch and all of you here for the helping hand.. ! Much appreciated... Cheers
  7. Seaking
    Thanks Bob.. I'll keep that in mind when I do the plates in a little while from now.. Next time you hear from me, I should hopefully be home after a completed job.. if all goes well =) Cheers
  8. Seaking
    Thanks Goose, I had a look at it again while going out to pick up wet / dry paper and thought, yeah.. ball ends will work.. no worries. Just have to careful torquing it.. Cheers.. heading out to change a clutch for the first time.. wish me luck lol
  9. Seaking
    Many thanks, Goose. I read previous comments not to bother with the friction plates but for the extra few bucks, the peace of mind is worth it after what all I had gone through with this bike thus far this summer.. I'll be keeping them as 'spares' if nothing else should something else go wrong down the road.. Point noted on the torque wrench.. I have the proper one.. (click type) Just to confirm, you DO have to drop the exhaust on the right side to do this job?? I'll be going out later today to start this task.. hopefully take it out tonight and make some noise in the frigid cold air.. (40'F last night lol) dayum.. what a diff from the 95'F in PA the other week!!
  10. Seaking
    Thanks M8.. I just got the kit in the mail a few mins ago and going through the parts.. Never having seen the inside of the clutch housing before, I'm a little wee tad intimidated.. Go figure, I've installed jet engines, loaded munitions, ejection seats and so forth but a little clutch intimidates me LOL.. no OJT is the prob I think.. Kit came with a seal, 8 friction plates and concave plate.. I assume this is what they call the 'full size friction disk' from the kit that goes in all the way to the back.. this is gonna sound stupid but which way does it go on? Will it be readily apparent when I open this up and get started? I'll be tackling this later today.. oooh eager to feel the power again!
  11. Seaking
    With the front wheel off the ground with a lift, kick the front tire like it owed you money and listen for the clunk.. could be 'anything'.. for my buddy, turned out to be the audio box loose to the mounts.. simple as that..
  12. Seaking
    Hey, let me know how you make out M8, I might be over some day and let you do mine, since you know, you have the experience already lol.. I'm planning on doing mine to steel lines too in the near future.. quite the difference they make.. My buddy has his done up with steel lines and the brakes snap on a lot quicker than rubber lines allow you to.. Personally, I'd get a shop to do it for me.. get it done right the first time.. in my case, safer lol.. I can bleed the brakes on a multi-million dollar aircraft but can't bleed bike brakes..
  13. Seaking
    So just wrapping it around a large flat block will do, cross hatching it to take the shine off eh? Yes, I ordered the PCW kit with new friction plates.. Might as well.. I've changed my oil after I got back from the big trip, without noticeable improvement.. And plan to do another oil change JUST before the clutch change over to get rid of any left over debris that might have come off the weakened clutch system now. Mind you, riding in 40'F weather seems to have improved things a bit.. either the cold is affecting the clutch or it's just me too frozen to want to drop the hammer and cause it to slip lol..
  14. Seaking
    the clutch fluid was changed out (flushed) earlier this summer.. I never had a hyd clutch'd bike before so it didn't appear too odd to me when I noticed the fluid being all black and such.. Oh must be the special fluid colour they use for that huh?? Until someone pointed out to me that the clutch fluid was actually BRAKE fluid.. ooops! And what a huge difference it made when they flushed it.. Since then I've put over 10,000 miles on the bike without any probs.. it's only after I got back from my epic trip to PA that it started acting funny.. (and Mount Washington etc).. Brake fluides were flushed out last fall..
  15. Seaking
    Thanks to both, 47,000 miles on the bike and well, stuff is getting old.. for a 2006? lol.. I rides her hard I guess. Patiently waiting for the upgraded clutch kit to arrive. Still, a pleasant ride today in the cold dry air.. (finally).. couldn't even risk trying to pass a slow poke on the back roads for fear of not being to drop the hammer to get out trouble, if you know what I mean... BTW, what's the best kind of sand paper to cross hatch the steel plates with to take the shine off of them? grit, type etc? Thanks again
  16. Seaking
    While I'm waiting for my new clutch upgrade to arrive, the OEM clutch is slipping a lot now.. I'm wondering if something is out of adjustment.. I don't fully understand how these clutches work or if they can be adjusted but here goes. While traveling 70 mph in either 4th or 5th, if I come onto the throttle, the clutch slips badly.. Today for the fun of it, I just touched the clutch inwards a bit and the revs came up fast.. wow, not too much pressure.. but only when at 70 mph in 5th.. city street speeds and gears doesn't really have that effect.. Would I be lucky enough that there is a quick adjustment that can be made to make the clutch better? The bike is still ride-able, just can't drop the hammer on it.. sigh
  17. Seaking
    Ooh If *I* may interject.. If you recall, I recently went through a huge problem while down visiting Skydoc in PA a few weeks ago where my bike died on the side of the road and wouldn't start.. I went through a lot of diagnostics and troubleshooting dilemma and it took the right guy 30 minutes to find the fault.. The bike turns over but will not fire so that means one of two things: Spark or Fuel. (A) Is the fuel pump working? Ideally, you'll want to make sure it's pumping fuel.. Several ways to test this, fuel out put from the pump itself is the sure way, etc.. Another way, and this is how they determined it was the pump was to crank the engine over, then pull the 4 spark plugs. The front ones were DRY.. The front jugs of our engines require the fuel pump to start.. If these are dry, then the pump isn't getting fuel up there to fire them up. The rear jugs can get fuel via gravity feed but the front ones need the pump.. no pump no fuel. At the same time, also check to see that your fuel filter is not clogged. My bike was affected by this early in the spring where as it would act like it was starving for fuel only because the filter was SO clogged, the pump couldn't suck enough fuel out of the tank unless if had a lot of fuel in it so that head pressure in the tank would assist the pump. Once fuel got so low, it would act as if I was on reserve except that putting the bike on reserve didn't help.. only adding more fuel to create more head pressure to assist the pump (like the extra weight of the fuel in the tank pushing the fuel out the line). This in the end, helped speed up the pump failing later this summer. I've also been told that you may want to check fuel in the carb bowls is another way to determine if you're getting fuel to the cylinders.. One ODD feature of my fuel pump failure is that it did not die immediately, which caused a lot of the problems in troubling shooting and diagnostics. When it finally died, the weird thing is that the signal lights all started to flash quick rapidly, acting as if one of the bulbs had died, that in itself being a self-diagnostic feature. Once the pump was replaced, the flashers worked normally again.. Out of curiosity, are your signal flashers flashing rapidly? (B) Are you getting spark? Pulling the spark plugs and checking for spark is one way.. changing the plugs out for new ones, gaping them again etc. Some people recommend checking the kick stand safety switch but this is only relevant if you couldn't turn the engine over at all.. Same goes with the ignition switch by pass, though someone pointed out that there is a low level power side to the switch that might also affect it.. So basically, check for fuel feed, and check for spark.. Please do let us know what it turns out to be.. best of luck M8.. been there done that and got rolling again..
  18. Seaking
    Drop me a line next year, I may well be able to attend and participate.. My club does a lot of fund raising around, our charity is CHAMP (Child Amputees) of the WAR AMPS of Canada.. Good job!
  19. Seaking
    Is this an annual event in CT? Sounds like a worthwhile event for a road trip ; )
  20. Seaking
    What, and end up paying more?
  21. Seaking
    Ever been to Rolling Thunder where there's 500,000 bikes in the parking lots before rolling out? Good event to support, both.. Cheers M8.. good on ya!
  22. Seaking
    Fun people to deal with, I have some of their stuff on another bike project I'm working on
  23. Seaking
    My E3's have a hum when running on the sides a bit, doesn't take much.. as little as a lean into the wind kinda thing or a high camber of the road will make them sing. Couldn't figure it out at first but finally figured it out lol.. I run my front at 40 and the rear at 42 PSI.. at my size, I'm basically riding two up configuration on the bike..
  24. Seaking
    Any idea on the price factor? If reasonable, I'd get into one.. it would match my mini-tach I have for the RSV.. kewl
  25. Seaking
    Once you get it done and appreciate how easy it can be done, you'll then want to purchase your own so that you can synch up your carbs on a regular basis.. Well worth the expense. best of luck find someone in your area to help you.. Cheers
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