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GS51

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Everything posted by GS51

  1. First I must apologize to all you good people It’s been way too long since I requested you prayers and god thoughts for my grandson and then later for myself. And I have not gotten back to you with my thanks and an update on how things are going. As I live alone just finding the time and the energy to get everything done is difficult. As for my grandson, he came home from the hospital just before Christmas but he has to have oxygen full time. They even arranged to have oxygen at school for him so he could stay in school and keep up on his school work. He had a heart catheterization and that showed everything is normal. Then they took him to see his original transplant doctor. They are looking at his lungs and the blood vessels through it. They think that maybe they are not formed right causing the problems he has now. We will just have to wait and see. They just don’t know at this point and are still doing tests. As I said before nobody has lived this long with the condition he has. As for myself as some of you may know I was taken to the hospital. In mid December a family member found me on the floor unresponsive and called an ambulance to take me to the hospital. Around the same time my grandson as coming home from the hospital is was going in. I was in for 15 days barely aware of anything for most of the time. The team of doctors that worked on me told my family that there was less than 2% chance of me leaving the hospital. They don’t know what caused it but all my major organs were shutting down heart, Lungs, liver and kidneys. They even thought part of my brain was gone. But I fooled them and walked out on my own 2 feet. It was still almost 2 weeks before I could get back to any kind of work and I still trying to catch up on all my work. When I had to go back in the one doctor referred to me as their miracle, for pulling me through. But all is not well while I am home but I had to return to the hospital twice and 2 other times I thought I would have to go back in with problems with my heart. They still need to do some tests. I was to have a nuclear stress test tomorrow but they had to cancel due to the snow they couldn’t get the drugs delivered so I am waiting to hear from as to when they can do it. At this point I don’t what the future holds I take it one day at a time. I am on light duty only no snow shoveling at all so I am unable to get out for a few days due to the snow. It will be several months at least before I may get back to anything close to normal. The good news they have not restricted me from riding this summer that’s all up to me and how I feel at the time. But they have really limited my diet no sugar, no salt, low cholesterol. No alcohol, no caffeine along with limited fluids. As long as I stay with I stay out of the hospital. Thank you for all you prayers and good thoughts and keep them coming I need and welcome all the help I can get. Gary
  2. i would think that this would be the last thing to talk about on a MC group I am suprised at all of you you must not have small kids or cats in your house I don't anymore but i learned from my past. I know that most every body install it over the top. Have any of you ever found the TP all piled up on the floor, cats and small kids just love that flapping tail comming down from the top and just love watching it unroll to the floor. As for tairing off the sheets most pull from the bottom up to tare off and end up with a long tail hanging that either has to be rewound or just left hanging for the cat to play with. if you unroll from the back down then when you tare it off you pull it in to the roll and it tares short and the end is at the wall less attractive to kids and cats. So if you want to avoid the mess then down th eback is the way to go
  3. Din't wast your time with a salvaged engine you can never tell what shape it is in until you tare it down. then it's to late. your best bet is to get a crate engine or better yet have one built then you know what you have when your done and you would be suprised at the little difference in price. I would go with a 350 built up from a good shop. just be sure it's a 4 bolt block. they make both 2 bolt and 4 bolt the 4 bolt is much stronger. As for installing a different engine then the origenal it is true that a deale can't install anything but what was in from the factory but non dealers can install anything you want. I don't know why it is I think it has to do with dealers and warrenty or something I never did get a good explination on that. I ran into that a frew years back when I had a 305 that went bad an I had to replace it I wanted to go up to a 350.(the 305 was under powered for what I needed) The dealer said he could not even sell me a 350 they could only sell me a direct replacment they wouldn't even talk to me until I gave them the VIN number. I went to a local motor shop that builds racing engines and had one built better then factory, higher compression, roller cam , molley rings the works and it only cost me about $300 more then the 305 from the dealer. It was the best move I could have made. The other thing if you go up you may have to up size the exaust system so the engine can breath Be prepaired when they do the swap they will always find other things that need / should be replaced, don't cut corners there if it need replaced replace it it will save you down the road good Luck
  4. you can't blame them I followed an unmarked Pa state police car the other day he was driving while typing on the computer. It must have been an importent message that just couldn't wait until he stoped.
  5. Thats a new one on me. I have striped lugs and broke lugs in the past but it has never worped a rotor from over torguing the lugs. I have worped rotors in the past but that was from a hard stop, doing 70 and had to lock it up that cost me 2 new rotors and 4 new tires. To worp a rotor you need to over heat it in one spot or hit it with something. while it is always good to torque the lugs to the correct value I have only ever had 1 trie shop use a torque wrench when I changed tires. I have had my wheels and others off more times then I can count and have run over 100 never had a problem. I you have worped rotors I would look for other problems a froze up calaber comes to mind.
  6. I noticed that everybody is changing to a high output stater. That's always good mor amps the better. But comming from an electrical background it rases a question I don't know about the 2nd gens but I know on the MK1 the manual states that the stater is rated at 30 amps and the voltage regulater is rated at 27 amps max. now you cam get more out of both if you cam cool them but that's hard to do in this case so it would not be recomended. My experiance has been that even if the stater is able to supply 55 amps or more if the voltage regulater can only handle 27amps. The 27 amps of the voltage regulater is still the max current you can draw. Are you replacing the voltage regulater along with the stater. Most of the voltage regulaters I have found searching the net are still just 30 amps. i did find one that uses new technology mosfet switching regulater that is rated at 50 amps and can be increased with additional heatsinking. but thats it. On my MK1 I was tracing the wireing diagrams and it shows 3 wires comming off the voltage regulater +12 VDC, -12VDC / Ground and one that goes to the +12 VDC from the switch. Dose anybody know what the 3rd wire is for, could it be for remote voltage sense like they do on some GM systems if so then it is not necessary and could ber left off on an upgrade. I don't mean to stir the pot but I am just trying to learn something from those who have done the upgrade in the past as to how they solved that problem. Thanks
  7. I have to jump in here most starter motors are series wound motors. that when all the amps that flow from the battery flow though both the series field and then one brush then the armetuer then the other bursh to groub (motor frame) on series wound DC motors the only thing that limits the speed is the load. sitting on the bench the load is very low, current is low if a winding were to ground out the motor could still run and look OK but when you put a load on the current goes up it could be as much as 100 amps or more on a bike. I know on a standard V8 I have seen a starter pull as much as 300 to 400 amps to crank it over. when you pull that much current through anything things move, windings shift it is possable that a winding is shifting and grounding out under load. with a battery the current that can be delivered is limited to what the battery can deliver. From the post the cranking voltage is down to 10V or so on a fully charged battery if the motor is free and can be cranked over ok then ther is something grounding the starter. It could be a grounded field or a dead spot on the armeture, motor shops may not be able to find it. thats why in your case I would recomend just replace the starter. the one test I would do is with a heavy duty jumper cable (#4 or larger) jump from a good car battery directly to the starter motor wire (after the solenoid) if it drags then it is deffenitly the starter . A car battery can supply 200 to 400 amps it's either going to crank it over or smoke the starter. Either way if it takes that much to crank it over the starter is shot. If you were closer to me I would stop over and check it for you this is the best advise I can offer. You have alread spend to much time on this that a new starter would be cheap at this point If It would help PM me with your phone number I will call you and try to talk you through it. Gary:080402gudl_prv:
  8. I looked it up Yamaha lists the top speed in 5th gear for an MK1 at 139 MPH but having rode mine up to just over 120 I have no dought it will go way over that, I just don't have what it takes to push it that far.
  9. i think i'll puy my 2ct/ in here from what you posted and the replies i would take the starter to good starter shop and have them do full test. you could have a bad winding on fiels or armature most likey grounded armature. if in question i would replace it with a new one then you will know for sure.
  10. Something dosen't smell right With a serial # of 00110 it has to be an 83, it's only 9 from the first the serial # start at 00101 in 83
  11. I feel for you it's always a shocking experiance I know from experiance I don't even keep count of the times I got hit anymore Everything from 50 DC to 480VAC below that you don't feel it After all the years I have spent in the trades I don't even think about it anymore And yes I am careful but it happens if you mess with electric long enough it will bite you.
  12. We don't have the whole picture. Electrical grounding is a system not just a connection, and may include, but may not be required in all cases a ground rod, a ground grid , or ground through the undergroung water lines depending on local code and / or condutions. As for your picture you only show 1 ground bar but a good installer will install 2' one on each side of the panel it keeps the wiring in the panel cleaner.If this is not a mobil home the ground wire may be attached to the nutural bar ( White Wire) in the panel and then the nutural bar is bonded or connected to the metal panel throught a bond screw on this bar unless you know what to look fore you will not see it. If you only have only 3 conductors comming (2 large and 1 half the size of the others)them the nutural is bonded to the metal panel ( required by code ) and this panel is truely the main service panel. all panels fead from this one will be required to have 4 wires 2 hot 1 nutural and the ground Mobile homes have isolated panels ( the ground bar is inslated from the nutural and they run 4 wires to the panel 2 hots nutural and ground ) actualy in a mobile home the panel inside is as subpanel the main panel is outside and uaualy only had the the single 200 amp main and that where the system grounding is attached. in fact all subpanels are requirded to have a isolated nutural with a seperate ground wire As for no ground rod they are not necessary but usualy used because it's cheaper to install, if you use the underground water lines or a ground grid. either is better then a ground rod. I know their is going to be somebody out there that will say other wise but I have been doing this for 40 years and they use a ground rod because it's easier to install. I have seen instulations where the engineer requires both even when the code only requires one. If you use a ground rod the end of the rod where the wire connects must be exposed so you can inspect it from time to time, inaddition if you use a ground rod you are still required to BOND the water system to the electrical ground. this is to prevent you from getting a shock when you touch the plumming if you have a ground fault on an attached device. Why is a a ground rod not necessarly the best ground? With a ground rod the only contact with the earth ( ground) is the surfice of the 5/8" rod when you think about it that's not much. In dry condutions that may not even ground at all. Then the futher you get from the rod the greater the potential differance. That differance is what gives you the trouble. In a very large building if you measure the potenel from the ground rod to different points on the earth around the building you could have ( I know I measured it one time ) over 100 volts differance between the two points thats more then enought to kill you, while still grounded acording to code, also if you have dry condutions the ground rod may not even ground youe system at all. if you use the water lines you not only have the pipes on your property but all of the pipes that are buired in the ground for miles back to the pumpimg station. I have seen where it's comon in some areas to run a ground loop or grid buired along the foundation before they back fill it ths makes sure all areas are the same potenal and is one of the best ground system you can have. In all electrical installations careful attention to the grounding system will save you big later. I have found over the years most electricans tend to cut corners on electrical installations to save a few bucks and increase their profit. The customer thinks they can save money this way but this is the last place you want to cut corners. With all the expensive electronics in use today why take the chance when the resalt is fire or death.
  13. replace the bottom element the water heater has 2 thermostats the bottom is used to recover after water is trawned off ( Cold water enters at the bottom through a full tube on the inlet when the the bottom thermostst calls for heat it supplies power to the bottom elemen first if the bottom can't heat then it will just keep calling. only after the bottom is up to temp will the thermostst suitch to power the top both elements are never on at th esame time i have seen this many times to check the element measure across the element terminals it should read 220 volts if the thermostat is calling for heat measuring to ground will just confuse you if you don't know what you are looking at.
  14. No 1 was running very badly the last few times I took her out so pulled the air cleaner off and chacked things out. the piston on #3 carb was not moving at all. after I opened things up I found the piston was apart. Should it come apart like this or should it be just one assembly Has this ever happened to anybody else Any ideas on how to glue it back together short of buying a new one
  15. GS51

    TCI pix Yuck

    It looks like your battery overflow vent is disconnected and the battery acid driped into it.
  16. I had good tread on it when I left home for the M&E I did notice that the tread was gone when I was getting ready to head home.those Ny roads just tore it up. I would not have even attempted the trip if there was any question about the tries.to me if there is any question about the tires they get changed or i don't ride no point in taking chances and yes there some spots that the tread is seperating from the cords when I pulled it off, in fact a few pictures show those spots. the tare is what has me conserned it is not comming apart just looks like a tare like it was pulled sideways with a lot of force and friction. could it be from the crash
  17. I pulled my rear tire off today my new one came in and I need to take it out and get the new one mounted. When I got it off I noticed some cuts / tares in the tread area. My first thought was that I ran over something and cut the tire but there are several of them and they are way to big to be just road damage. I did see some spots that the tread was completely gone but their different. I have never seen a tire tare like that before without some explanation. I was wandering, as some of you may know I crashed it on the way home from the western NY M&E when that happened I was pushed sideways before I laid it over but I wouldn’t think that there is enough friction to tare the tire like this. The cuts are through to the cords but it holds air. The tire is a Dunlap E2 491 it was on the bike when I got it a year ago last June so I have no idea how many miles are on it. I am just looking for some thought and opinions on what caused the damage. I am going to try and post some pictures I hope they come through ok Thanks
  18. I sent you a private message for the dfront bumper Gary S
  19. I just wanted to let everybody know the first venture, like the grand lady she is brought me home safe and sound. I pulled in about 12:40 a little tired but fine I want to thank everybody for all your thoughts and prayers they must have worked. I want to send a special thanks out to skydoc-17 for hanging with me while I patched her together so I could ride her home. And very special thank you to bongobobny helping me out with the necessary parts and the use of this garage to patch her together. And I don’t want to forget Big tom and everybody that came out to help me get her over to Bobs so I could work on her. Then people in this group are the best, always looking out for others and helping out wherever they can.
  20. For all of you that carry how do you handle crossing state lines ?
  21. Hi Bob i have a spare for an 83 i got off ebay i can send up if you still need it i have not tested it, i was going to send it out and get it checked but just never got around to it. from what i am told the 83 and 84 use a different TCI but if you you want it let me know
  22. Is see a lot of different information posted here but I would have to question all of it. GM started installing the Black Box in select vehicles only about 10 years and never told anybody that they did it. they were tring to collect crash date to build a safer car. Their was one case where the DA tried to use it to convict a guy It was droped before it ever went to a jury There is the question about who owned the box the vehicle owner on GM. then there was the informed consent to search not knowing the box was there consent could not be given and not asumed. because not all vehicles have the box the data would be of limited value for the police they would only have part of the information and citation based on the box would be questionable at best any good aternory would get it kicked on any number of reasions. I would not be conserned about the Black Box as much as the GPS, you know they are there and most record trip data speed time ect. there was one case a few years ago that a guy got fined by a major rental car co. they fined him because the onboard GPS recorder his speed well over the legal limit. the fine was returned because only the goverment has the power to fine you. but I have heard thet they got around that now by charging a surcharge for unsafe driving if the GPS records you speed much over the legal limit. and most of the rental co's have GPS as part of the package.
  23. I hope these pictures goes through OK if i'll try again if you are looking for a pictire of first gen Venture then this is the one to use of if you would like i can thake a few more and let you chose This Venture is a 1983 and has the serial number of 00101. I call Yamaha last week and they told me their records don't go back that far the lowest serial number they ahve a record for is 00177. but they are of the opinion that is is in fact the first of the Verture model but their is no way to confirm it so they could not give me any documentation. the best thing is it's still on the road.
  24. i can use the chrome front fender trim the one that 2 1/4" rods around the front with the round reflector mine fell off yesterday and i ran over it if you have it let me know what you wan tfor it swartzg@comcast.net thanks
  25. I just wanted to thank everybody for their consern and the help I got her running over the weekend . as it turned out it was not the TCI but I am at a loss to understand that one. 2 of us my son and myself each checked for spark 2 different times each. even after cleaning up the plug connections just no spark. we did replace the fuel filer I missed that the first time around . and chenged the sparkplugs. after we got it fired up we found the one carb was not working correctly and the one fuel line was partly blocked open sometimes and blocked at times. I replaced the line. put everything back together and gave it a good test run over the weekend. got it inspected this morning. I am looking forward to some good ride time this summer. Maybe I will run in to some of you out on the road. Thanks to all for the help
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