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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. MiCarl
    Dual air horns.
  2. MiCarl
    Re-reading this thread I realize I made a mistake. The 84-89 TCI is the same. The 90 is radically different and definitely will not work. I've corrected my original post.
  3. MiCarl
    The 84-89 all used the same TCI. Might as well open up your search......
  4. MiCarl
    You're stopping when you disconnect the jumper cables because your battery is completely toast. Don't attempt to run it without at least a somewhat charged battery connected as you can get voltage spikes that cook things.
  5. MiCarl
    Carl, Sorry you didn't get a key with the new cat. All years of cat look the same to me so I'm no help there. Until I get there to pick it up please ask the cat to refrain from scratching on my motorcycle.
  6. MiCarl
    If you've got the throttle cables disconnected, the idle speed screw adjusted off the stop and the linkages are all fine then syncing is precisely what you need to do. One or more of the butterflies is completely closed, holding the others open. Was hidden by your no firing #2.
  7. MiCarl
    Remember that in line 4 cyls have 2 cylinders at TDC at a time (All crotch rockets I believe). They typically have 2 pickups and 2 coils as opposed to 4 each on our pre-90 V-4s. You could probably use the same work around the Croatia guys did, but you'll have to work it out yourself.
  8. MiCarl
    Scheduled service is about preventative maintenance. The idea is to prevent the day you have to take it in running like crap and blow big $$$ on something. Now, Yamaha may schedule it too often, the dealer may charge too much or cut corners; but it's not reasonable to expect routine maintenance to make any improvement in performance for something that's been well cared for.
  9. MiCarl
    It's probably the TCI but you need to ohm out the pickup coils to rule them out. If the pickup coils check good I'd re-solder every joint in the TCI. Also, seems like you'd be just the guy to do board level repairs on a TCI. (HINT) I've seen posts about fragile glass diodes......... If all else fails you might consider the aftermarket TCI that is being discussed. Seems like a guy like you could have a ball with that.
  10. MiCarl
    The electrode color looks good, maybe a touch lean. The thread area on the other hand looks pretty coked up. If you have not run this plug since you did the carb work I'd suspect the heat range is wrong (too hot keeps the electrode clean). If you've run it I'd guess it was way rich and the electrodes have already scrubbed themselves. The rest of the plug will catch up. On the other hand, you've got them out and new ones cost about $3/each. Give you a nice clean slate to work with...........
  11. MiCarl
    That's the major drawback to a 1st gen: They're easy to repair but it takes at least an hour to get through the wrappings.
  12. MiCarl
    Tim, No spark can be one of 3 things: Coil Pickup TCI Quick and dirty test on the coil is to swap leads with another, see if it fires. The pickup coils can be checked with an ohm meter. The wire pairs and the spec are in the service manual. There are no specs for the TCI. Basically the diagnostic is to rule everything else out and then replace the TCI. The pre 90 ignition modules have four functional units in them. So, you can have a failure on one and have the other 3 fire ok. Failed solder joints are a common problem.
  13. MiCarl
    Nope. It's not an exhaust leak either. If you don't find a vacuum leak (and the nipple isn't plugged) check the compression on that cylinder.
  14. MiCarl
    What the synchronizer measure is the drop in pressure in the intake. I assume you mean that there is no measurable pressure drop there (at least nothing that shows on the carb tune). You either have a massive intake leak or the butterfly on that carburetor is way more open than the others. Or maybe a ruined valve, but your question implies you're riding it ok. The CarbTune seems to measure pressure in CM Hg. If the reading on the 3 carburetors you have synced is more than 25CM Hg then you're likely way out in your adjustment. Those three are way too far closed, #2 is way far too open, and #2 is doing all the work. I assume it idles? If so, fire it up and spray starting fluid around the #2 carburetor and it's intake boot. If the bike doesn't rev up it isn't an air leak. If there is no air leak put the sync gauges back on it. Start turning the sync screws on the other 3 carburetors so their pressure goes up (the columns on the gauge will get shorter). Try to keep them pretty much even as you go down. You will probably have to turn the idle screw up as you go. Eventually you'll see the level on #2 rise, when all four are the same you're synced.
  15. MiCarl
    That piece shouldn't "blow out". There should be no pressure there. I'd push it back in and start the bike up. If it "blows out" you've got pressure building up where there shouldn't be any. Probably game over for a beginner wrench. Excellent advice. Getting the covers off and on is a major part of the job.
  16. MiCarl
    Room Temperature Vulcanizing rubber. Commonly called silicone. In your question you stated that you "blew a valve cover gasket" and that you "don't want to be stranded somewhere". Valve cover gaskets don't typically "blow", they weep a bit of oil when they fail. Dirty, but not something that will strand you somewhere. Are you sure the valve cover gasket is your problem?
  17. MiCarl
    You have an XVZ12. Royale - D Model Year 1984 - L XVZ12DL If it was a California model it would be XVZ12DLC The DK should be an 83, and DKC should be 83 Califorina. Not sure about the other designations, but at a glance they appear to be non-US models. You need to be careful with the manuals as they often cover multiple years and models. You need to have a close look at the supplements to make sure there isn't information for your year and model there that overrules the bulk of the manual. In the supplements there should be a model identification section that will let you be sure you have the correct info.
  18. MiCarl
    On my 1st gen it specifies 10W30 below 60degF and 20W40 above 40degF. I run 15W40 all the time. If I lived down South I'd be really tempted to run 20W50 in the summer. What do all those numbers theoretically mean? A 10W30 has the viscosity of a 10 weight base oil cold and the viscosity of a 30 weight base oil hot. (I believe cold=32F and hot=212F, but don't hold me to it). A 10W30 is a 10 weight base oil with additives that enhance it's high temperature viscosity. With use, those additives break down so that 10W30 becomes 10W25, 10W20 and eventually just 10W. Synthetic oils are a special case. They have a broader viscosity range with less (or no) additives.
  19. MiCarl
    Just wanted to make sure we weren't talking about the accessory post. My power for the lights runs through my upgraded panel too, point is we both have power directly from the battery. My stock stator can keep up with the lights too. The issue is with the brakes applied the voltage dives to 12V (with lights off, and lower with them on). I think the electric anti-dives on the MKII really eat up the power.
  20. MiCarl
    If you're talking about the accessory hook up post I believe it is fused at 10A, which is marginal for a pair of 55W lights. I've got fog and driving lights. They are powered directly from the battery, with a 15A fuse. The lights are switched by relays which are tied into the high and low beam circuits (fogs on low beam, driving on high). I also have a 20A rated switch to cut off the power supply. I find that in stop and go driving there isn't enough juice keep the voltage up (the anti-dives seem to use lots of power), so I turn them off.
  21. MiCarl
    Looks like what they've done tying the inputs together is create a "wasted spark" ignition system. Firing two plugs at a time - one is the one entering the power stroke and the other is in the exhaust stroke (wasted). Real common on inline fours because that lets them use only 2 pickups and 2 coils (due to the timing of the V engine they had to wire in all four pick ups). I know that the 90-93 system is quite a bit different than the 84-89. At minimum the box would need different programming and wiring harness. I know nothing about the 83 TCI.
  22. MiCarl
    YAY! Another no pants night. Mama, are you going to show up or are you just going to stick me with the bar tab?
  23. MiCarl
    I like this design. I don't see how adding bottles does anything more than make extra work and places for it to leak. Placing a couple "T"s in the bottom of the loop will let you have 4 tubes so you can sync the whole thing at one shot. Probably add $2 to the price tho..... BTW that set up is not accurate, it is however sensitive (more sensitive than mercury sticks which are accurate). What I mean by that is it in no way will tell you the pressure in the intakes, just the relationship. The MotionPro SynchPro is similar. That is perfectly fine for synchronizing and I love my SynchPro. If you have even one cylinder that is not firing the vacuum on a synchronized motorcycle will drop very low. There is no way to see this situation on an open manometer (above) or the SynchPro. With mercury sticks or gauges you can see that situation at a glance. I still slap the vacuum gauge set on if I have any suspicions about how well the engine is running.
  24. MiCarl
    The signals cancel after a certain amount of time AND you travel a certain distance. Stopped they'll flash indefinitely because you never meet the distance requirement. On the freeway the distance gets eaten up quickly and they cancel when the clock runs out. I do not know what the time and distance are though.
  25. MiCarl

    Cold

    MiCarl replied to MidlifeVenture's topic in Watering Hole

    I'm just glad I made it through August without turning the furnace on............
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