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lonestarmedic

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  1. lonestarmedic
    Two ideas come to mind. PLEDGE AND PAM. JB
  2. lonestarmedic
    I will be in Friday about 1-2pm. I need a PM with your address and TxVenture's address. I want to visit with him and then anchor on your porch. We can wait for KBay to show up then tell a few tales. Let's take off Sat. early, hit the train depot in Rusk and go from there. When we get close we will call MasterGuns and make the meet there. He is going to ride with us around the area until Sunday AM. If anyone else wants to join in we can set a breakfast kickstand spot in Houston and then a lunch spot in Rusk. I am looking towards maybe having enough folks to divide up and have one pair run the ride route (100-120 miles) and one set go to Caddo Lake and check the paddleboat. JB
  3. lonestarmedic
    Sorry - I ment to mark as East of Dallas, not Houston. The Lake o the Pines is outside of Dallas and North of Houston. If you look it is across the border from Shreveport. Thats what happens when I try and type and map from my PDA phone instead of my computer. JB
  4. lonestarmedic
    I am taking off work on Friday and Monday. So, I will be in town early. I want to stop at a couple places on the way. Hope to make it over to TxVentures late afternoon etc. JB
  5. lonestarmedic
    I am planning on being between the Rusk-Palestine area and the Jefferson area. The train ride is at Rusk and the paddleboat is on Caddo Lake. Interstate 20 out of Houston cuts right between these places. Lake O' the Pines is about 9-10 miles west of Jefferson. Anyone got the Ride Texas Magazine from last year with the 3 leg bike route? I loaned mine out and it hasn't returned. JB
  6. lonestarmedic
    Planning on spending the nite in Houston Friday. I want to visit with TxVenture. Then on the road early Saturday for parts East. Thanks for the spot on the porch Don! Promise not to take the dog's favorite spot. I want to stay through to Sunday nite and then come back to S.A. on Monday. JB
  7. lonestarmedic
    BuddyRich- I will after this coming weekend. Got the enetrainment and rides figured out. Just having trouble getting a good meet site without actually seeing the places. I am trying for a place with rooms, campsites, and a pavilion all in one. Hoping to hear back from Road Runner magazine. They are doing a feature on East Texas for the October issue!! JB
  8. lonestarmedic
    So, I was prodded today to update the October 18th Stampede details. I am planning on riding to East Texas this coming weekend to get solid details. I realize I haven't been prolific on the upcoming meet. My job and other obligations have kept me off the road more than I might like. My plans for the labor day weekend went out the window with the lack of parts. The bike is back together and ready to run. And I used the extra time to make a new workbench and set up the Mocha Lair for tearing apart bikes. I hope to leave Friday and drop into Houston for a visit. Then on to East Texas. If anyone is up for a road trip, give me a yell. JB
  9. lonestarmedic
    Condor- I just call him "M" now. He just walks in grabs coffee in his personal mug and sits on down. I don't mind the work, just want to do it on my schedule. Go take a nap and I'll tell you another story sometime. JB
  10. lonestarmedic
    (Or what I did instead of going to Houston for Red Lobster) So, the bike needed new tires. Bought a set of Continental ContiTours from Dennis Kirk. Then I picked up a set of rims on e-Bay. Mount and balance then just swap out. Sounds great in the master plan. Pull the seals to get sized at the local bearing house. Man says not a problem. Also order new bearings. Get a new drive side bearing from the dealer. RIGHT!!! The local dealer wants $68.00!!! Start calling and get a lead on one for $39.00. Get it coming for this past Thursday. Guy from the seal house calls and can't find the seals. Too special but he can order. Tell him ok and go for the Stealership. They have 3 of 4 seals. Go home and take front wheel off and kneel the bike forward. Worked great and I did remember a ratchet strap for the center stand. Start on the rear. Muffler off and set aside, loosen axle shaft a bit to make sure all is ok. Remove caliper bolts in rear and the threads come out with the bolts. Rats-helicoil time. Mutter and loosen the 4 shaft tube nuts and put 1 back as a holder. Pull the axle and drop the wheel perfectly. Wipe down and pull snap ring and remove drive hub. Wait, snap ring groove? The e-Bay wheel didn't have that!! Call tire man in the AM. Already mounted and balanced. Take the disc off my original wheel and take over. Sure enough the drive hub was removed without taking off the snap ring. Would have liked to see the force required to break the entire center of the wheel off! Tire guy charges me for 3 changes and off I go. Want to go to Houston for meet and eat so I drive to Austin and get the last seal. Now I know why I only pulled 3 seals. The broken off end had the fourth. Stop at Harbor Freight and pick up a blind hole bearing puller set. (On sale for $29.00) Go to bolt place and get 10mm x 1.25 permacoil kit. Auto parts - $75.00 and bolt place $32.00. Now I am ready to go. Only it is 6:30 PM on Friday. Decide to quit and repair on Saturday. Reassembly and bearing replacement is smooth. The puller kit made it a snap. All cleaned, greased, neverseized, and blue locktited. Perma-coils put on right on bike without removing caliper. Pictures galore taken and all buttoned up. Guessed at the torque on the rear axle. Calls for 110 ft.-lbs. Used a wrench and white knuckles method. It turns well and no binding. Brake caliper on and holding great. Now I get to clean up in the AM. I have seal sizes and bearing numbers for later. I will post the pics and do a write-up for the archives. Oh, the e-Bay guy is giving me back my rim money. It was $9.99. I got both rims, the radio, amp, and whole wiring harness for $60.00 delivered so the money isn't a problem. I explained what it took to break the hub and suggested that his shop monkeys learn to wipe off stuff and not use a shop press and torch for disassembly. Long-winded story JB
  11. lonestarmedic
    I just finished putting mine together. Replaced all bearings and seals front and rear. I did take pictures but haven't resized yet. On the drive side of the rear wheel the cylindrical bearing seats on a ridge inside the wheel. This ridge is like the ends of a castellated nut so you can drive it out from the other side. There is a seal in the end over the cyl. bearing. The sleeve that goes in the bearing has a small and large end. The small end goes in first. The seal rides on this sleeve. The end of the sleeve butts against the spacer. There is a large dust sleeve around the base of the drive hub. It rides against the face of the differential. Watch the washers and spacers on the right side. There is a spacer that rides inside the seal. It has a step on one side that rides against the bearing. Then there is a washer between the spacer and the swingarm. The axle end goes against it after it goes through the swingarm. Give me a PM if you want pictures. Resized they should be about 10mb or so. Write-up to come later. JB
  12. lonestarmedic
    In about 1998 Harley went from 5 pins to 7 pins. The 1st Gen Venture, 2nd Gen Venture, older HD, and Goldwings up to a certain year all use a common 5 pin. Some have a shrouded connector. I know my friends 1500 wing fits my 1st Gen. Ask WildHair to be sure, but I think Kaw's are similar. I have seen a 7-5 adapter. Note sure what feature you lose going from 5-7. They do make use of the pins. JB
  13. lonestarmedic
    Bob- I looked at my brace with the same idea. How did it work out? I will let you know as I progress on the relocator brackets. Condor- I spent the night at the E.R. with my daughter, so I am a bit behind the power curve on the trunk project. Need to get ready to ride East Texas next weekend. Preliminary inspection has an idea of 2 bars from the forward to the rear mounts with a crossbar in the back to grab the other mounts. Plus would be a place on the crossbar to hang a 3rd brake light. Ideas for the area between the seat and trunk include an extra cushion, a pad bolted to the turo pack, and a spot for too pouch etc. Daughter is ok. Just a mean strain of strep throat. Shot her temp up and was causing lower back pain due to the fever and shivering. Thought it might be the kidneys so I took her in. Spent 10pm to 4:30 am sitting and waiting. JB
  14. lonestarmedic
    Perchance someone in one of those other states might get a title for the bike and then sell it to you in about 2-3 months?
  15. lonestarmedic
    Duh-Read the posts-all the posts! I think I can pull off the flat bracket idea with some aluminum bar stock. Make it thick enough to recess the bolt heads and studs etc. Sure would be easier than the rewelding and rechroming trick. Something to try after I get the new shoes on tomorrow. JB
  16. lonestarmedic
    Ok Jeff, I bought a trunk rack with the idea of reworking it to move the trunk rearward. I can't quite see what you did in the pics. I though the Mark II had a few more mounting spots to support than 4 bolts. Maybe it is just my mind when I look under the trunk. I want to get a bit more seat room too. The Corbin is set back further than the original seat. I could actually use 2-3 inches. At that point, the backrest would be even with the rear edge of the Corbin. JB
  17. lonestarmedic
    Thanks- I have blatently cut, pasted, and copied your message into my Venture archive. I love seeing this type of information. JB
  18. lonestarmedic
    I say we are looking at a 2010 H-D Road Glide. Water cooled with roots in the V-rod motor and experimental luggage. If it is such a critter, I will watch with interest. I want a new bike in 2010. I am hoping for a Venture with a V-Max motor in a package much like this bike. Road Glide fairing with the 2nd Gen luggage. JB
  19. lonestarmedic
    Glad you made it. I looked in the dogpile and I have a wiring harness from e-bay. I got it for cheap as it was a multi item shipment. I think a six-pack and a pizza will cover the price. It is in great shape with all the fuse wires intact. Will see you at work this week and figure out when to tear it apart. We will get the old girl up and running. Wiring, battery cables, fresh grounds, replace fuse holder, resolder compressor control board, do the dash while in there, replace the battery sensor, Sea-Foam it, carb tune............................................................................... And the fun begins. JB
  20. lonestarmedic
    If he doesnt have them I do. I think I have a spare set in a box of hardware I got from e-bay. Sorted all the bolts into one of those plastic bolt bins. JB
  21. lonestarmedic
    I am alive and well in San Antonio. Many irons in the fire. Working 12 hour days and weekends. However, I am building up overtime and comp. time. Planning on a run your way in a couple weeks. Going to head east and finalize the Stampede accomodations. Figuring on a 4 day weekend. Heck- I got new shoes in the garage and haven't even put them on yet. JB
  22. lonestarmedic
    The 1986 has a single diaphragm spring. Best thing to do is get a new set of frictions, gasket, and a PCW racing kit. It has an extra disc and a stiffer spring. Takes about an hour to change all the parts. My discs from my 1986 were ok thickness wise. However as I removed them I found a bit of deterioration of the facing due to age. Tools needed: long 5mm allen to reach the cover bolts, standard metric socket set for the 6 interior bolts, an o-ring pick or to for pulling the discs and the funny wire clip, gasket cleaning tools, and a torque wrench that will measure 9ft. lbs. Don't even lose any oil if you do it cold on the sidestand!! JB
  23. lonestarmedic
    Randy - follow this link to see what I did to my trunk. The SMD lights are off of e-bay from a place named Joe Florida. Nice guy. It is a labor intensive project but the end result is excellent. Gunboat and Ponch say that the rear only washes out at broad daylight high noon. The turn signals show up well even then. Make sure and use red behind red and yellow behind yellow. I have mine set with running, turn, and brake lights. I think I can buy the LED's bulk fairly cheap, Otherwise you end up with a few leftover strip pieces. Been thinking about mounting those in the side reflectors on the side bags. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21986 JB
  24. lonestarmedic
    Interesting thread. I recently went shopping for tires and chose not to order from Southwest Moto. The website offers no way to check stock. And, if you read the fine print they discourage non-local people from calling via phone. They flat out state that you can only contact them via e-mail. They also do not offer a full line service on all the manufacturers. I had decided on Continental tires for my 1986 Venture and they don't even offer the Conti-Tour line at all! I understand many of you have had good luck with them in the past. I think a better web site and communications might help. I went to Dennis Kirk and ordered my tires. Got a stocking confirmation in a few hours, and a shipping confirmation in about a half day. Tires hit the door right on time and in good shape. One tire was showing 2 years old by the date so I called them to inquire about warranty and suitability. I was treated with respect and asked if I wanted to return the tire and get a different one. I also got a call from the tech service department a few hours later on the same subject. I don't think 2 years is a problem on a tire. It has no evidence of bad storage, no cracks, and no disfigurements. However, if I find a problem upon mounting or when riding this summer, I am on record with Dennis Kirk with the question and they assured me that referencing the order number would result in a no questions asked full refund. JB
  25. lonestarmedic
    Squeeze - as the hub is closed in, is there enough room to press them into the hub cavity then fish the dampers out through the bearing hole? Or am I missing something that exposes the other side of the wheel? I agree that the dampers should not affect runout per say. But during accelleration or decelleration could worn or soft bushings cause a vibration? They seem to be intact and not too soft. Just thoughts at this point in the game. JB
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