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6m459

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Everything posted by 6m459

  1. 6m459
    Any interest in getting a batch made? How many would be interested? I didn't do the machining of mine myself. I had a friend in the machine shop at work do me a favour. Likely I'd need to engage a proper jobbing machine shop to make more in quantity. I am also thinking that if we did a batch, it would be good to get them anodized either clear or black for protection from the elements. (mine are just raw alu so far) So LMK about colour preferences. Pricing will obviously depend on batch quantity, so LMK how many might be interested and I'll see what can be done. Cheers, Brian H.
  2. 6m459
    FWIW, here are a couple of pics of the final version of my mirror mount mod: Billet Aluminium mirror mount http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/7204bc1f.jpg?t=1276049880 Mirrors from Ebay http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/79c1c8ab.jpg?t=1276050706 I think they look good and the new mirrors have worked out much better than my old OEM mirrors which just wouldn't stay put anymore. Hope this if of interest. Cheers, Brian H.
  3. 6m459
    Last time I did mine, my manual said 400 ml each but but I only had 750ml on hand so each fork got 375ml and she runs and feels fine. Hope this is helpful or at least of interest. Cheers, Brian H.
  4. 6m459
    TPALSHADOW asked first so they are on their way to his house. Brian H.
  5. 6m459
    Hi, I got tired of the original mirrors on my bikes, for various age related reasons, so I built a mount that adapts the Venture 2 screw mount to take the conventional M10 x 1.25 threaded shank of a conventional motorcycle stalk mirrors. http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike4/98280491.jpg?t=1275875559 I built a couple of different versioins before settling on a final design. The pair that were the version before last, as shown in the picture above, are quite useable but will now only sit in my junk box, so I thought I'd offer them 'Free To Good Home', to anyone here at VR.org who's interested in having them. They were hand fabricated as prorotypes so certainly don't look 'laser cut' or anythng, but are entirely functional and quite presentable I think. They are a left hand / right hand threaded pair for compatibility with Yamaha mirrors. LMK if you'd like them. (BTW, I bought the mirrors I used on Ebay as shown in ebay auctions 110370409134 and 110515482095. I am quite happy with both.) Cheers, Brian H.
  6. 6m459
    Hi, I also only use genuine Yamaha fork seals. I learned this the hard way. I also make it policy to change the top bushing while I have things apart. The parts aren't very expensive (also genuine Yamaha) and I like the peace of mind. As I understand it if the bushing is worn, then extra forces are put on the seal that they are not intended to withstand. (I have also been tempted to change the lower bushing too but have never actually done so.) The upper bushing part I am talking about is referred to as: 5-42 3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL, SLIDE 1 and the lower bushing part is referrred to as: 36-73 3JJ-23171-00-00 PISTON, front fork at http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx in the front fork parts list. Hope this helps. Brian H.
  7. 6m459
    Hi, I am beginning to suspect the master cylinder is failing. It doesn't feel as smooth as I remember. I have a spare one I am going to swap in when time permits. I doubt that there is air in the system but I will be flushing new fluid through and will check then and make sure to purge it. I had a problem with old fluid about 6 years ago when I first got this bike. The fluid had been contaminated with water. The friction point would start out ok but as the engine heat and the heat of the day went up, the friction point would fade towards the handle bar as the heat would turn the water to vapor which would compress. There seems to be a small component of this again this time. I guess that fluid doesn't owe me any thing since it is now 6 years old. Thanks, Brian H. Update: I changed out the master cylinder for my spare one and that fixed things up. The mechanism of the old clutch m/c looks quite worn out on postmortem. I'll still flush the fluid when time permits but things seem to be much improved now. Brian H.
  8. 6m459
    Hi, My blue bike's (60,000 miles) clutch friction point is noticeably closer to the bar than my red bike's (13.000 miles). Both are '84 xvz12's btw. I am trying to make up my mind whether something is deteriorating or if it is just the nature of the beast. All seems to work fine but the friction point on the blue bike is quite close to the bar and when released the lever does not fully return to the all the way out position leaving a big dead zone where the lever movement has no tension on it at all. The friction point is quite useable and comfy for my hand, but now I have two bikes I can't help but notice differences. Perhaps its just me being anal or perhaps I have some work to do. I am going to flush the fluid with fresh but meanwhile, these questions occur to me: As the clutch friction surfaces wear, am I correct to assume that the friction point comes closer to the bar? I read about weak clutch springs on these bikes, does this scenario fit the description for that? How big a job is it to supplement clutch springs as some describe doing on these old gals? Other suggestions ? Thanks, Brian H.
  9. 6m459
    Hi, I have re done the sight glass installation in my red bike's brake reservoir. This one, you may recall, had been repaired using a watch crystal and blue gasket silicone, but the repair didn't last due to bad adhesion of the silicone to the alu of the reservoir. This time I used a friction fit instead of any bonding agent. I had accidentally bought my watch crystals a bit on the small side, a problem when I used silicone as I had a lot of space to fill, but which ultimately seems to have worked out in my favour for this method. I went to the local auto supply store and bought a roll of gasket paper. I selected a thickness of paper that would just exceed the diameter of the opening in the alu reservoir, when two thicknesses were added to the diameter of the watch crystal. I very carefully cut a piece of the gasket paper that was about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch wide by the exact circumference of the watch crystal. I then rolled the paper into a tube around the crystal and an appropriately sized matching outer diameter hex socket. I put tape on the roll, out over the hex socket, well clear of the crystal. I arranged the watch crystal so that it was just slightly in from the end of the paper roll, say 1/16" or so. I then introduced the excess paper, that over hung the crystal, into the hole in the alu reservoir and then gingerly applied force, with my vice, across the back side of the reservoir and the outer end of the hex socket. This pressed the watch crystal into place, dragging the paper in with it, compressing it slightly as it went. I then used an xacto knife to slice away the excess paper, flush with the alu and the glass. I had the drive end of the hex socket away from the crystal so that the force was applied only to the outer edge of the glass by the business end of the socket, and no force was applied to the centre surface of the glass. (I had previously tried using a piece of birch dowel in place of the hex socket, but lost that crystal, I surmise, as the forces were applied all across the face of the glass as I pressed it in and it broke as it seated.) I arranged for the seam of the paper tube to be at the 12:00 position on the reservoir sight glass hole. I think I wiped a smear of the blue silicone over that join spot after installation was complete but I don't recall for sure if I did or just thought about it. The repair has held back the fluid for about a month now give or take and I have a few miles on that bike since. I am not 100% happy with the evenness of the seating of the crystal but I can live with it. Some paper bunched up a bit unevenly on the inside stopping the ingress of the crystal as I pressed it in. I am sure this is an issue with my technique that I would overcome if I did this everyday. Hope this is of interest and that I have expressed myself clearly, Cheers, Brian H.
  10. 6m459
    These are some kool pix, especially that opener! Brian H.
  11. 6m459
    Hi, Here is a link to the map of a route I have in mind for a day long ride around part of SE Ontario some time this summer. The motivation, besides getting some saddle time, stems from a nostalgic desire to relive a bit of my childhood by making a crossing aboard the Glenora Car Ferry. See the blue section between C and D on the map. I can't believe that these old boats still run and want to get one more trip in while I can. As long as the weather cooperates, its a very pleasant and scenic crossing of about 15 minutes duration. (I might even park the bike once across and do another round trip on foot just for the fun of it) Any one interested to join me for all or part thereof? I am planning to go on a week day, since I have time off available and dislike weekend traffic. Other than that, I am flexible as to dates and open to suggestions, although SWMBO will, of course, have the ultimate veto power on any proposed dates. Also be aware that I am planning on an early start, somewhere in the 06:00 time slot I think. A rain date should be factored into the mix also in case of a washout of the primary date. Notice, I have deliberately avoided any 401 travel as its not what I am interested in but it might make a quick escape route should anyone need or want it once the main attraction is done. In general, I am planning a leisurely ride and will not be speeding, too much. I'll likely stop and do a bit of a look around Picton, lunch there is in my mind but I'll see how the time goes and how grumbly my tummy gets on the day. What do you say folks ? Brian H.
  12. 6m459
    Hi, Was browsing ebay the other day and came across this Turns out its a local firm who say they make SS brake lines to order. I emailed and asked for a quote on a full set x 2 of first gen SS brake lines, since a cursory read of the ebay description implies that they have bike specific knowledge related to XVZ13's. They say though, that they don't have ANY bike specific info, and I'll have to order everything a la carte so to speak. A bit misleading but OK I didn't read far enough down. Not wanting to re invent the wheel, I looked in the tech library for a list or description of some kind describing all the requisite brake hoses and fittngs, but I don't find one. Have I missed it? Is there such a thing already compiled in some kind someone's private archives who'd like to share? If so, it would save me a bit of work and would be a great thing to post in the tech section. Thanks, Brian H.
  13. 6m459
    Hi, Suggest you give serious consideration to replacing the original fuse box, which is a piece of absolute shyte! Here is a post I did some time ago on how I have done the replacement on my bikes. Some folks on this board sell kits for doing this which is another option. Hope this helps, Nice looking bike BTW! Brian H.
  14. 6m459
    I recently found that the nut on the end of the long frame member bolt, that goes through the front engine mounts, had come loose and dropped off my blue bike! Fortunately, despite having a sense that my frame was feeling a bit flexi lately, I and the bike were none the worse for wear. Also fortunately, my local Canadian Tire Store stocks a good range of metric hardware including the Nylox shake proof type which is whats on there now. I am going to go on a wholesale nut and bolt tightening blitz this weekend before putting a leg over that beast again! Hope this is of interest and not too far off topic. Cheers, Brian H.
  15. 6m459
    My blue bike is apart for a port side fork seal repair right now. It suddenly started to leak like gangbusters last week after I hit a mega road wrinkle in the dark. I am off to the dealers at lunch for some parts. http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/eed78e4a.jpg Initially I was pissed that I had to do this again already, but when I checked, I found that it was July '06 last time I did a fork seal on this bike, and it was the other fork! I guess it was time after all. I like to tinker and I own old bikes because if I had new bikes, I wouldn't have the courage to mess with them as much as I do. I have two bikes for less than most spend on one. I can tinker with one and ride the other, heaven on earth from my perspective. I like to take stuff apart and put it back together better than it was before. To me that's half the fun of motorcycles, and cars for that matter. I also have a spare set of forks which I had planned to keep as 'hot standbys', but somehow they never got serviced and are on an inaccessibly high shelf at the moment. Time to review that I think. $654 is cheap insurance to keep your bike safe, no question about it. I thought about having someone else do this fork repair for me, rationalizing that I didn't have the time, but in the end I got out the tools 'cause no matter how long the to do list is, tinkering with m/c's always seems to float to the top of the priority list for me (and luckily SWMBO indulges me, most of the time). $654 is also more than I paid for this old gal 6 years and 40,000 odd miles ago. Hope you have a good season now that your forks are fixed. Cheers, Brian H.
  16. 6m459
    LCD Screens dashboard into an old Renault Super 5 car. Car stopped : showing all functions. http://zcarcockpit.free.fr/EN_index.html
  17. 6m459
    Those Dakota Digital units look nice but sure are pricey! Brian H.
  18. 6m459
    I printed out an image of the Vapor unit at 1:1 scaling with the real thing as per the dimensions shown in the manual. I cut it out and placed it on the dash of my bike. I took this picture from about where the driver's head would be. (Maybe a bit low as I had to kill a reflection from a fluorescent over head.) http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/ea612b9b.jpg I was worried that the little thing would disappear on that big dash and that I'd be unable to read the digits with my 54 y.o. eyes. Looks usable to me despite my misgivings. Brian H.
  19. 6m459
    OK, PM me an address and I'll put them in the post on Monday. Cheers, Brian H.
  20. 6m459
    Thanks dingy! Thats what I needed. Brian H.
  21. 6m459
    I have a couple of fancy chromed plastic first gen OEM horn covers that I don't need anymore since I went to air horns on both bikes. I am offering them 'free to good home' to the general membership? The OEM horns that came in them were junk and are long gone but these were too nice to pitch out. Thought I'd try to find them a new venture to call home. http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad39/UxHamby/vehicles/bike3/61d0e64f.jpg Any takers before these hit the land fill ? Cheers, Brian H.
  22. 6m459
    All the pix of the TrailTech units are at almost 2:1 scaling. The units are half the size shown! From the owners manual pdf on their site on page 11 or so, it shows the actual size as 107.5mm x 59.5 mm. I am wondering if my old eyes are good enough these days to read one of these from the pilot's seat to the XVZ1x dashboard! I have printed some scaled down versions of pix of their Vapor unit and will try a mock up tonight on one of my bikes.
  23. 6m459
    Hi, Perhaps I have gone blind but, I have looked in the various XVZ1x schematics I have and that are available here on VR.org and I am not finding info on how the dashboard gear indicator works. What I'd like to know is how does the indicator on the OEM dashboard know what gear the bike is in? What is the connection between whatever is sensing the gear in the transmission and the dashboard display? Ultimately, I'd like to know right down to wire colours and plug pin connections. I hope I am describing this clearly. Can anyone illuminate me on this, or point me to where it is shown in the schematics. Thanks, Brian H.
  24. 6m459
    It has been high and dry in my garage for 2 weeks and only used in fair weather prior to. I'll try some of these suggestions this evening. thanks all! Brian H.
  25. 6m459
    Hi, Any known endemic issues with the ignition key mechanism on these old gals? I went to ride my red '84 to work this morning but I couldn't get the key to turn in the ignition! I have a Yamaha original key as well as a couple of copies of same, NONE would turn in the ignition this morning. All worked fine as usual in all the other locks on the bike and no precursory events have suggested any issues with the ignition mechanism up to now. The bike has sat for a couple of weeks due to weather and my busy life but was thought to be ready to go till this happened. Perhaps the spirits were telling me that today isn't a day to ride and I am grateful that it happened in my own garage and not out in the wilds somewhere but it is a puzzle. I had to come to work on 4 wheels. What info do we have on this sort of behaviour ? Thanks, Brian H.
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