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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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Well, after all the electric problems I have had and thought had overcome, a new one popped up last night. Most recall that I had upgraded the stator, rectifier/regulator, battery, ignition switch is new and all connections are tight and all plugs were seperated, cleaned and dialectrically greased. Bike was running better than ever. Last night as I was getting ready to leave for work, I went to fire the bike up. I disconnected the battery tender, turned the key on, waited a few seconds for the fuel pump to finish clicking then hit the starter button. Got half a whirr out of it then all went dark. Nothing, Nada....I turned it to accessory and the radio backlight light started pulsing for about 30 seconds then the radio came on. Nothing else came on, not even the signals. I tried going back to the on position but nothing still. I switched back to the acc and once again the radio backlight began a series of pulses before the radio came on. No presets were lost so the battery hasnt run down. A check today of the battery off the battery tender all night showed just under 13.00. I tried the switch and everything came on. Now I did hit the started switch while the DMM was connected and it went dark again. Went back to acc and the radio backlight started its pulsing dance again. If I hit the started button while the radio is on it goes dark until I let the button go, then the pulsing starts and a few seconds later the radio comes back on. So, since Im no electrical genius I would really appreciate some thorough advice here is laymans terms, before I start a bonfire in the middle of my driveway.... -
Put on a new set of rear shoes today, and when I just took it for a test drive, my headlamp is not working...however, my high beam indicator stays on no matter where my switch is...any ideas?
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I started having an weird intermittent starting issue with my 85 when I was at Kruisn the Kootenays a couple of weeks ago. About 99% of the time the bike starts fine, but, every once in a while it wont click ,turn over, or make any noise at all. All my gauges work, everything has power, headlight is on and shuts off when I press the start button,so it looks to me like the start switch works ok, and yes, the kill switch is in the run position . After a time I can go back and it starts fine, no set time or temperature hot or cold doesnt seem to matter. BUT I found out yesterday and again today that if I hold the starter button down and press the horn it starts! Is this a bad ground? I am an electrical moron, does someone have an idea where I should start? It does have a relay with the Stebel horn that was installed last winter. And my side stand switch appears to be working properly as it kills the engine when I put it down and the warnings show up in the dash when it is down. Brian:bang head:
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I know some have bypassed the ignition switch for a just in case circumstance. So maybe someone can help me out here. Recently I have been having some weird things happening that I am attributing to the ignition switch going bad. I have read and printed out the by-pass procedure to install a separate switch on the bike in case the main one craps out. My question is this. By putting this switch in does it give you everything you need or is it just allowing you to crank the bike and run it? Do you get lights, dash, turn signals, brakes, and everything else that would normally come on with the ignition? Many thanks in advance.
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Jude just started a new job so we won't be able to make it to the Meet this year in Arkansas. I had reserved a king room at the Hub. Anybody wanting it PM me and we can switch it to your name.
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i have a 86 royale that won't start, when i turn the key the fuel pump doesn't turn on,and the start key does nothing, the neutral light is on, when the engine was running last night and i parked the bike it was in gear and i put the kick stand down and the bike stopped running ,so i am assuming the kick stand switch works, the battery is realitively new,when i use the kill switch it makes a clicking noise that sounds like it is engaging a switch? should i start at the starter and work backwords? how do i get to the starter terminals? thanks for the help
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Today on my way home from work, I was cruising along on my 99 RSV at 60mph in 4th gear. Radio off, cruise control on. All of a sudden the engine died as if I'd hit the kill switch. Initially I thought that the cruise had just dropped out. Nope. Checked the kill switch, hadn't hit it. Flicked it back and forth a few times and tried to restart. Nothing. I have read all the posts on ignition switch failure and this sounds different. All my lights, radio, dash lights and instruments are working normally. The only problem is that when I hit the starter button nothing happens except for the engine temp light (red light on the lower right of the instrument panel) comes on until I release the button. I can hear the fuel pump run, 4-way flashers work, horn (Stebel) works....everything but the start circuit. I'm thinking kill switch failure. Any of you wizards have any thoughts before I start tearing her apart? Sure am thankful that this didn't happen last week in the middle of my 2000 mile Appalachian mountain range trip! Joe -
Ok folks.. need some help here. Out on the weekend for about 1300 Kms. At one point stopped to stretch etc. Went to get started and the engine won't turn over. Found out that I'd hit the kill switch to off with my helmet. So I turned it back to run and still nothing. I rocked it a few times and at one point I heard a click inside the bike. After that it started and I had no more problems. Is there a relay or something attached to the kill switch? How do I prevent this from happening again? I never use that switch (except accidentally) HELP?? Wayne
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I noticed in your add in the classifieds for your backrest, that you got a road sofa!! I've been seriously debating it. How do you like it??? why did you switch from stock?? Did you get the one with the Gel pad built in?? OH...and...how's your passenger like it (veeerry important question!!)Any info would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks
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OK SO TODAY I DECIDED TO SPLIT THE FAIRING AND REPLACE MY STOCK BULB WITH SOMETHING BRIGHTER, AFTER WIFE TRIED TO NO AVAIL TO REPLACE WITHOUT SPLITTING, SO I GOT THE BULB IN NO PROBLEM GOT EVERYTHING PUT TOGETHER AND WAS READY TO HEAD OUT FOR A RIDE....... NOW I HAVE NO SPEEDO, FUEL GAUGE, OR TURN SIGNALS RUNNING LIGHTS COME ON BUT WHEN I HIT THE SWITCH NOTHING HAPPENS WHAT DID I DO?? GONNA OPEN IT BACK UP BUT WONDER IF ANYONE HAS SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT I UNHOOKED?:doh::doh:
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This is going to be a bit winded but I feel its necessary to detail all of it so you can be either: bored out of your skull, or get a good understanding of what im trying to say..... Over the years I have read about how the ignition switch just fails, leaving some stranded without warning. Now, most of you who followed my various posts over the last few years know about my charging system issues, which are now fully resolved thanks to some lengthy phone calls..... That being said, I had installed a Signal Dynamics heads up charging system indicator (see link below) just before I installed the Buckeye stator upgrade. It is really super sensitive to any electrical draw as it reads in millivolts (whatever that is) and it literally drove me (and Squidly) nuts after I installed the new stator. Rectifier followed and all connections were dialectriacally greased. (Was that a word?) All was fine. However, somewhere down the road the nice indicator light would stay yellow most of the time, only occasionally dipping into the green then back to yellow. It was red whenever I turned on the driving lights. All of my tests with the DMM showed the bike was charging. I figured I would just take Squidleys advice and just ignore the light. Well, it still drove me nuts. I started wondering about the condition of the ignition switch and whether it was a part of the charging system. I asked several knowledgable sources who had different thoughts on this. One actually referenced the wiring diagram and said that it did not appear to run through the charging system. Still not a firm answer. So, since my tumblers in the ignition switch was worn badly and the switch is 10 years old AND it was probably one of the last original electrical components left on the bike I decided to replace it. Flatout in Indiana had the best price at 123.00 so I ordered the switch and installed it. I fired up the bike and, lo and behold I had a green light!!! A steady green light!!! Its been 2 weeks now and the charging system is doing what its supposed to do. So, my point to this little story is that maybe, just maybe. and its only my opinion, but I think that Signal Dynamics LED light just might have indicated that the switch was deteriorating and it warned me prior to a faulure. The ignition switch obviously has something to do with the charging system, or at least had a big draw on the system as it was on its way out. So, the moral to this long winded story is, check out the Signal Dynamics link below and think about ordering one for peace of mind. For the low price I think its well worth it. I also like the Kisan monitering device but at $140.00 bucks its a bit steep for me. I use the model 1050 single light. http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/HUVM.asp
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Finally got a moment to install my Garmin. I placed it on the RH bar. It is integrated with the audio system through the cassette input. I gutted a cassette player and installed a switchbox. Now I flip a switch and the Garmin works with the intercom, CB, and the radio. The radio is cut off and then all the Garmin takes over. I also installed an XM receiver on the trunk. Finished the whole thing with a Buddy Rich microphone interface. Now, we have MP3 input, XM, cell phone, and navigation. I forget who sent me the cassette player, but you may claim a free switch interface conversion whenever you desire. Thanks for the extra unit. Things to do yet: 1. Line the box to eliminate rattles. 2. Solder up an audio triggered priority switch for the MP3 to Garmin. This will eliminate the manual switch and allow for navigation prompts when switched to MP3. 3. Finish the box cover. It will be a flat cover with a piano hinge. Sapper Medic has a line on refrigerator magnetic sealing material to hold down the cover. 4. Install the 12VDC socket for MP3/Cell Phone charging. It will go inside the pocket. The 2820 works great. I need to tweak the volume settings for the Bluetooth yet. It picks up my Motorola Q9c very well. It pulls in the phonebook well. My phonebook has a few hundred entries so it takes about 1 minute. The 2820 has a remote control, so Maggie can work it from the navigation platform (rear seat). It does not have a battery or an SD slot. However, it hooks via USB to the computer for using MapSource software. Volume from the system in all modes is fantastic. I like the wide screen and the buttons. JB
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I found a set of driving lights for my Venture on EBAY - Alecks Power Sports in Erie Pa. In the ORIGINAL Yamaha kit is a push button switch. Does anybody use this switch or should I just cut it out and let them come on with the ignition switch ?? Any downside to doing it that way ?? Also - the instructions say something about an aux DC terminal on the left side of the fairing - can't find it ??>::
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I have ridden a 99' Venture for the past two years and just recently sold it. I had no complaints about the bike, I just decided that I wanted that "wind-in-the-face" feeling back that I had on my last bike. However, I also want a bike that can do the long haul trips that I like to take occasionally. I am looking at the Tour Deluxe becuase it seems to fit my needs for a cruiser/touring bike (and fit my budget). Having only test-ridden one a few years back, I was wondering if anyone else on this site has made this switch and if you had any input for me? I know to look for the obvious things (clutch whine, lower faring cracks, leaky rear shock, ect) but I would like some feedback from those who have acutally taken the plunge. Thanks, Bubba
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So i packed the runkill switch with dielectric grease and the stupid thing still left me stranded in a parking lot. So i took the switch out and bypassed it just to get home. I'd like to find a totally new switch somewhere (maybe a better one that handles moisture a little better). Any ideas? I'm not having much luck other than some crappy used ones on ebay that will probably have the same issue. thanks a bunch. -
Hi, One of the issues my red bike came to me with is an intermittent brake fluid alert on the dash computer display, regardless of how much fluid is or isn't in the hydraulic systems front and rear. (The P.O. had disabled the red flashing light by cutting a wire on the back of the dash but I can't live like that.) When it happened to me today, I had forgotten, that I had previously (last fall) isolated this to the float switch in the front brake reservoir. Sometimes it seems to stick open circuit and nothing will persuade it otherwise. After a bit of headlight removing, wire tracing, continuity measuring and head scratching, it all began to come back to me so I popped the lid of the res and lifted the float by hand. NOPE still o/c on that float switch even with the float held at top of its travel. I just happened to have a very powerful magnet, from a computer disk drive, handy. When I held it close to the side of the reservoir casting, suddenly I had continuity at last. Remove the powerful magnet and bob the float and the alert comes back. The lessons here I think are that: A) a powerful magnet is a good but not obvious trouble shooting tool. B) that my float's magnet is weak or the reed switch has become unreliable or both. Questions I have come away with are: 1) Can the reed switch portion of the reservoir be changed? 2) Can it be done without removing the brake lever assy from the handle bar? 3) Is there any way to get a more powerful magnet into my float or perhaps rejuvinate the one already there? BTW, I also have a similar thing going on with this bike's engine oil level switch. I have in mind to replace that next oil change but it seems odd that two float switches would fail on the same bike. Is there any history of this? Do you think I should ask the P.O. if he experiences other odd phenomena like crops circles that might also have had an effect on the magnets on this bike? Opinions and advice welcome as always. Thanks, Brian H. -
In an earlier thread, some of you guys gave me the idea to use a rear window defroster relay/timer for a manual over ride on the cooling fan on my scoot. Well, got it done. It works perfectly. On for 10 minutes then goes off by itself. I got rid of the OEM stereo and replaced it with a Pioneer CD stereo a while back. I left the mute and seek switches on the handle bars thinking I might have a use for them later. I modified the switch by taking out the mute switch and replacing it with an amber lens. I had to run a fourth wire to the switch to light the bulb that I took out of the relay. So the seek switch became the fan switch and the mute became the indicator light. I don't remember what kind of car I took the relay out of, but I think it was a mid to late 80's Lumina. You can see the number on the relay in the picture if you need it for reference later. At the same time I also replaced the thermostat and flushed out the old coolent and replaced it with some new stuff. Also the radiator cap didn't look so swell so I replaced it with an extra one I had on hand. The local auto dealer here is an Auto Value store, so the Napa number (156) wasn't much help. On another thread that some one else posted, another member posted a picture of the box that he got his thermoatat in from Napa. Along with the number 156, there was also a number 33708. We were able to use that number as a cross reference. We founs a Stant #13758 that fit perfectly. It was also a 180* thermostst same as the OEM stat.
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OK, i got rained on yesterday and you guess....kill switch lost contact and wouldnt start untill i took it apart with my swiss army knife and got it good an dried out. SURELY some of y'all know a remedey to this apparantly age old problem. (1984 venture by the way). IS there an aftermarket switch i can buy somewere? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much! i'm still learning....
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I do believe I am having the dreaded ignition switch failure and I would love some help with the diagnosis. Twice the bike has started, but the instrument panel has remained blank. This corrected itself when I turned the switch off, then back on. Often now it will reset my trip odometers to zero and the clock to 1:00 when I turn the switch off. I have reset the clock 3 times in 2 days so this is more than just a one time occurence. Is this some of the symptons of switch failure and is there an aftermarket switch available for the 2nd Gen? Many thanks to those that respond and help out. :bowdown:
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Did the first gens have different keys for the ignition than for the luggage and such? My ignition switch was so hosed up that I bought a replacement from ebay dirt cheap, and I was going to change the tumblers out to use the same ignition key. To my dismay, the ignition key from the replacement switch is a different blank than the one on the bike. When I examined the one on the bike, the key that was supposedly for the ignition was not right either. The inside of the ignition switch had been worn out enough that it would turn if wiggled right. This leads me to believe the key that came with the bike is not the right one. If they originally had two keys, I am ok with that, but i am darn picky and would like them all keyed alike if that is how they rolled off the assembly line.
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Here's one for all you electrical geniuses - if you can solve this problem I'll name my next male child after you. Here's the back story - last year, we were just about home from a long trip & the bike dies on the freeway. Long story short - It turns out that 2 of the leads had detached from the bottom of the ignition switch. The local Hoinda dealer fixed the bike and when I pick up the bike from the dealer, it runs fine. But here's the glitch - with the bike in nuetral & on the sidestand, it will not start or run unless the clutch is in. Pull in the clutch - it starts right up. If I sit on it & put the sidestand up (& bike is in nuetral), I can let the clutch out and it will continue to run. I have replaced the ignition switch & the sidestand switch, and the clutch switch and inspected the nuetral switch (it is a mechanical switch which seems to be working fine). Nothing changed. I have inspected all the fuses I know of and all the electrical connections. Is there a relay or fuse someplace I am unware of? Broken connection in some hidden spot? I would appreciate any useful information on resolving this.
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All; Up until this week, I used the CB at least once a week. Yesterday, I turned on the CB and pressed the "push to talk" button/switch. Anyway...nothing..Tried several times...still nothing... Pulled into a parking lot, got off the bike, and pushed the passenger "push to talk"...worked as expected. So it appears that the driver's CB talk switch is "broken"? Short of taking the bike in for warranty work on the switch, is there anything else I should try?
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I want to install a toggle swith to bypass the ign switch for emergencies. I know where to hook up.... My question is. What Amp Toggle switch do I need? Will a 10amp be large enough? Thanks for the help Reaney
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I went to install my new ignition switch this am. Figured no more than an hour tops. Took off the seat, tank and disconnected the wires. Looked closely and saw the "security" bolts. WTF??? Real nice.....I walked away for an hour then approached it with a better frame of mind. Whipped out the trusty dremel, cut a slot in the head and whacked it out with an impact screwdriver. Took a few good whacks. Discovered that there is also blue loctite on those headless bolts. Since I have the Barons risers, the stock leftover handlebar bolts fit perfectly. At the time I was cursing out the genius at Yamaha who came up with this brilliant idea. Later on I thought about it. If I wanted to aquire someones real nice. maybe new, fully decked out RSV all I would have to do is to spring for a new switch, remove the seat and tank, unbolt the switch and install the new one complete with keys! 10 minutes and im off.........Still not sold on the idea but at least I can now understand the reasoning behind it..maybe.....
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I thought I had a TCI or kill switch problem that ended up being a side stand switch that had a lot of resistance. My bike went from an occasional stumble to shutting down. The connection is under the left side panel and can be followed from the side stand up. I found mine had all kinds of resistance readings. You can check any combinations on the three wires with the side stand up or down and there should be no resistance or a complete open, nothing in between. I ended taking my switch off and sprayed contact cleaner down the side of the plunger while moving it in and out. I did this several times and then blew air around it and put the boot back in place. The bike started instantly and on a 180 mile trip yesterday thru the mountains doing many hard pulls, it never missed or stumbled at all. This is an easy check whether your bike is running good or not and should be checked before you start to have a problem or get stranded. RandyA
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