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does anyone have a stock clutch spring laying around from an upgrade? I have a friend who wants to remove the heavier spring and replace with a stock one.

I have an 07 RSTD with 21k and since I have owned it only 6 weeks I don't have a lot of info about what was done by the prior owner (original). So that being said I believe it to be stock, I know the exhaust is, I'm experiencing some slight decel popping. Is this a tuning issue that is a warranty item or is it normal?

I am looking for a set of stock mufflers for a 2000 RSV. Does anyone have a set they could part with? And, am I correct in assuming that any year from 1998 forward would fit my 2000? Thanks, dana

I purchased a set of the Doss Teardrop spotlights with built in amber parking light / turn signal. The parking light / turn signal is LED. The turn signal works fine, although it flashes a bit fast, but with my stock rear turn signals all is still fine. That said, the parking light does not work when wired to my stock parking light wiring. Does anyone have experience with these? I am sure my stock parking light wiring has power both through my test light and it will light the LED when wired through the LED turn signal feed. Help?

BaggerShield's new tall and wide RSV shield is now in stock and ready for shipment. Picture of the shield is below. This shield adjusts from 10.5" to 16.5" and is 4" wider than the stock model. All Venturerider.org members receive 10% off plus free priority shipping to anywhere in the US and Canada. Shipping only takes 2 days from time of order in the US and 4 days to Canada! Give me a call to receive your forum discount or send me a PM to get you discount code to use at http://www.baggershield.com http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb402/BaggerShield/Dealer%20Info/StarVen105-165.jpg

I talked to the owner, John, at F4 about getting a new windshield on my RSV. I told him I wanted a vent and he said the standard answer is no, but since he's the owner maybe. Well, he checked out the shield and said he could get the Goldwing vent installed. I know there was discussion on this before, the lack of a vent was a deciding point for many. I'ts the same height as stock but 2 in. wider per side. The Lexan sounds like a superior product and for $30 more than comparable Clearview shield, I think I'll go for it.

Ok. I just experienced a wierd feeling in the clutch which i assume is "clutch slippage". I have a 2000 with 34,000 miles. I have done some reading on here and am wondering a few things... 1. Will a new spring stock sping make a difference? I read one post where someone tried the "heavier" spring and ended up replacing it back with a new "stock" spring. 2. Do i need to replace more than a sping? It only has been slipping in 5th gear with a lot of throttle. 3. What exaclty causes this defect? I have owned old GW and never talk of clutch slippage. Thanks, Larry

Hi Folks, Quick question. Has anyone installed the National Cycle 'PeaceMakers' on their RSTD or Venture? These are the pipes with an actuator on them that go from a stock sound to a after market exhaust sond with a flip of a switch. Just curious on comments and where I might hear a sound byte. Thanks, Pedro

My 2005 RSTD Rear Shock is toast, and of course is out of warranty. The thought of having a works shock that can be rebuilt makes a lot of sense to me. My question is: Is there any of us second geners that switched from the stock that are sorry they gave up the air adjustable functionality of the stock shock? Also, does anyone know about how long a Works shock lasts before needing a rebuild? I also have noticed a wide variance of how long the stock shocks are lasting for different people. My RSTD has 13,000 miles on it. Has Yamaha corrected the problem with the replacement shocks? The guy at Works asked me if I pull a trailer. I currently do not and don't think that I will, but I did not think that I would have added a Venture trunk either, but I just did. If I add a trailer later, is this something that I can adjust for on the Works shock, or do i have to start over form the design process? Has any of us had any experience with this dilemma, or had the same questions and gotten answers?

Hi all, I have been lurking for a few days. I just bought a 2003 RSV with 5800 miles The previous owner put lowering links on it and I was wondering if anyone had the stock length links laying around that they would give me for the price of shipping. If not I will just make a set out of bar stock. I have done that before on my sport bikes. Thanks all Krok

I am trying to do a search for posts containing the words "fuel filter". I don't want posts containing only the word "fuel" nor do I want posts containing only the word "filter". I want posts containing both words. How do I do this? And, if you're reading this and know the answer to the following, it would save me searching... What fuel filters (in-line, non stock) can I use instead of replacing the stock one (brand & part #)? I recall reading a while back where someone posted this info inclucing pics ... there was a metal one that I'm particularly interested in. My end result will be to install an in-line filter in the line under the seat and eliminate the stock filter. I've read several posts about this but for the life of me I can't find the ONE POST that lists the specific filter I want.

I know there has been other threads on this but it almost time for me to get new tires and what I am seeing is Avon Venoms or Metzlers or stock .Any other brands that are any good out there...... Ron:cool10:

Im just kicking around the idea of removing the radio and tape deck on my 91 vr. Is it possible to replace these and still keep the cb. I use my cb regularly and am not currently happy with the sound from my stock radio, It is good with the headset but without not so much. i have replaced the stock speakers and tis made a bit of a difference but not too much. any idea will be apreciated David

If anyone is interested in a set of stock mufflers, I have a set I took off my 05 two or three years ago and replaced with a set of RK's...I will bring them down to MD with me..I am asking 50.00 for them...if interested give me a shout...

Are the fronts and rears the same size? My rears have blown and not interested in upgrading them so looking for another stock set.

(Ring) Them: Hello, @#$#$% Honda, how may I direct your call? Me: Parts department please. Them: Parts. Me: Yes, I’m traveling through and lost an exhaust baffle. I was hoping you had a two inch exhaust baffle in stock. Them: What kind of bike do you have? Me: It’s a 2001 Honda, 1100 Shadow. But it has after-market Cobra exhaust system on it. Them: No. The 1100 Shadow has an inch and three quarters exhaust. That is the size baffle you need. Me: Sorry, but I measured my pipe and it is definitely two inch. It was installed by the previous owner. Them: A two inch exhaust won’t fit on a Shadow! Me: Don’t know what to tell you, but that is what I have. Do you have a two inch baffle in stock? Them: What model number Cobra pipes do you have? Me: (exasperated) I don’t know, they were installed by the previous owner. The baffle doesn’t have to be from Cobra, any two inch baffle will work for me. Them: I have to have the model number to look it up. Me: Do you have ANY baffles in stock? Them: No, we don’t carry exhaust parts in stock, but we can order them and have them for you in about a week. Me: Do you remember I said I was traveling and just passing through? Them: But if you really need it…. Me: Never mind (click) (Ring) Them: Hello, @#$%#@ Harley Davison, how may I direct your call? Me: Parts department please. Them: Parts. Me: Yes, I’m traveling through town and have lost one of my exhaust baffles. Do you happen to have a two inch exhaust baffle in stock? Them: What kind of bike do you have? Me: I have two inch, after market, Cobra pipes. But any brand of baffle will work for me. It doesn’t have to be Cobra. Them: Let’s see here, I show I have a couple baffles in stock, but they are not Cobras. Me: That’s great!! I don’t care about the brand. They are two inch, right? Them: Well… these are inch and three quarters. That is a close as I can get. Me: That’s good but I need two inch. Them: What kind of bike is this going on? Me: Well….it’s a 2001 Honda Shadow, but it has the two inch Cobra exhaust installed. Them: We don’t sell Honda parts. You better call them. You want their number? Me: Never mind (click).

After installing my highway lights, the fuse got so hot after about 2 hours of riding that it literally melted the solder right off the caps. That cheap plastic fuse holder is total junk. I cracked the fairing open, re-routed the wires to the opening under the triple tree in the back of the inside fairing, replaced the stock fuse with a weatherproof mini AGM 10 amp fuse, and was able to tuck the whole thing under the tank where it is totally accessible without having to split the fairing again. What a pain, but it beats the alternative. That stock in-line plastic fuse holder and old style fuse just aren't designed to handle the current I guess. The new one is working fine, and doesn't get warm at all to the touch.

I'm looking for a set of stock grips for my '96 RSTC. The bike came with Kury ISO's and I'm of the belief that they were/are a contributing factor in the problems I was having with my carpal affected hands while riding it home this past weekend. It's kinda curious as I have ISO's on my 650 and don't have as much trouble with them as I did with the grips on the RSTC. Also, the bike came with the wind deflectors. Do I have to pull them to mount the Baron Big Bar Engine guard on the bike??? Any and all help greatly appreciated!

So after a lot of searching, I was not able to locate any threads specific to putting Flanders bars on an RSTD other than which ones and that they work well. I have wanted to do this for a while but was apprehensive about the cable and hose length when I saw different pictures of scooters with the new bars on. After starting to develop a sore left shoulder blade, my wife said it was time for me to go for it. Worst case, put the stock bars back on and sell the Flanders. Good enough. Since I couldn’t find a thread specific to RSTD's, I figure this was a good chance for me to contribute to the site and other RSTD owners who may want to put these bars on their scooter but are not sure how to do it or may be a little nervous about tearing apart their bike. Who knows, it may even end up in the tech library . I am mechanically inclined and I do most all my own car/house/electrical work. In hind sight, this job can be done by anyone with a small amount of skill, a few tools and the guts to try something. Really, what’s the worst that could happen? That being said, after I bought the bars, I was ready to tackle this project. I tore into this about 5 PM on Thursday and finished up around 10 PM (without putting the end weights on, more on that later) that same night. I did some internet price searching and found the bars that are recommended at a great price on this web site http://www.xtremerevolution.com/Store/spc-12346-19-7-flanders-1-inch-handlebars.aspx. I want to throw a BIG plug for these folks. They listed the bar for $120.95 on their site which is a GREAT price IMHO. I figured out that their store is here in San Diego, so I called them and went to pick up the bars (no shipping cost). When I got there, they sold me the bars at a discount as compared to the online price (maybe a break for being military) and I got them for $120.66 out the door (after the ‘governator’ got his cut of course). ALL the folks there were really friendly and most of them ride. Overall had a great experience and will go back for other custom parts. Here are the specifics on the Flanders bar as compared to the stock bar: 650-08373, Flanders Pullback Handlebars, Chrome, Metric Knurled (4" in side x 5" out side) - - - - - - - - Flanders - -Stock (06-09 RSTD) Height: - - - -9”- - - - - -8” Pullback: - -18.5”- - - -16.5” Center: - - - 8.5” - - - - 8” Width: - - - - 33”- - - - -33” Diameter - - 1”- - - - - -1” Here is the visual difference: The first two pics shows the pull back, the bar knurls are on top of each other. This one shows the added rise: Here are the steps I took. First step was to remove the windshield and put somewhere safe. Second and probably the most important one, COVER EVERYTHING in the area that is painted or chromed (ask me how I know this). I covered the tank, light bucket to start and then the cowling (after the aforementioned ‘ask me’ incident) so as not to ding anything as I went. After covering everything, I removed the speedometer, two 8mm bolts in the back and 1 allen bolt in the front. Once the speedo is loose, there is one connector covered by a rubber boot. To remove the connector, slide back the boot and there is a catch on the top in the center (yellow arrow). Push that in and the connector will come right out with a little jiggling. Below the speedometer are two black quick release zip ties. Lift the tab sticking out of the tie to release the lock, remove and set aside for later. After the zip ties, I released the plastic clamps that hold the cables on the sides of the stock handle bars, no pics of this, I just slid the clamp portion apart by hand and they opened right up. Now all the cables and hoses were loose. Next I removed the brake and clutch reservoirs. Pop out the chrome caps that cover the bolts then remove the two allen bolts that hold the clamp to the bar. HOLD ONTO THE MIRROR as you loosen the bolts, it will slip and turn (ask me how I know this one too). Once the bolts were out, I placed the assembly over the front of the forks between my head lamp and driving light. Repeat same process for the other side for the clutch reservoir. After the clutch is off, it’s easy to get to the two Phillips screws that hold the turn signal housing. Remove the screws and both assemblies can be put off to the side or front to keep them out of the way. Next I removed the throttle housing held in by two Phillips screws: Once the two screws are removed, the back half with the cruise control buttons and kill switch can be placed off to the side, just slip the wire housing out from the bottom of the front piece of the chrome housing. I had forgot this until later when it FELL OFF and hit the cowling (see first ‘ask me’ statement). Next, I loosened the throttle cables so the grip and the rest of the housing can be removed. I loosened the lock nut on the cable and then turn the adjusting screw to the stop to allow the most slack on the upper cable. This loosened the top cable enough to allow for removal from the throttle. I turned the throttle clockwise (as looking) at it as I slipped a scribe under the cable to pull it over the channel and then pushed the end through the holder. Picture isn’t real clear in the area I was working, but you get the idea. With the upper cable removed, the lower cable comes off easily the same way. Now the housing can be put off to the side. Next step is to remove the bar end weights. Pop the chrome cap and remove the center allen bolt. If this is the first time you are removing this bolt, it may be tight due to having red thread lock on it. With the bar end weight off, the throttle will slip off easily (make sure it doesn’t fall off when you remove the bar end weight). Remove the clutch side bar end the same way. At this point the stock bars should be pretty naked, accept the clutch side grip. I held off on removing this grip until I knew that the bars were going to fit the way I wanted, but it can be remove easily at any point. I slipped a scribe (small screw driver will work) between the grip and the bar and slowly moved it around the bar being careful not to damage the inside of the grip. Then I sprayed some lube (I used Sea Foam spray lubricant, but WD-40 or equivalent will work) between the grip and the bar. I worked it back and forth, this loosened the grip and it slipped right off. The stock bars are now ready to be removed. They are held in by two clamps with two allen bolts each. Loosen one bracket at a time. When you loosen the second bracket, HOLD ON TO THE HANDLE BARS (ask me how I know this one, glad the tank was covered). With the clamps off, the bars are free for removal. The new bars are ready to be put on. Just install them in the clamps and make sure they are centered between them. I positioned them in a neutral spot for height knowing I would have to adjust them once everything was on. This allowed for testing cable, wire and hose lengths. In order to make things easier, I removed the bracket at the top of the forks. Two allen bolts and it comes right off. This can be done before installing the new bar; I just didn’t realize I needed to until I got to this point. I found that the left side cables and hoses had plenty of room, but the right was going to be the challenge. The first thing I noticed that would need to change was the routing of the throttle cable. The cable was under the wire run to the headlight. The pencil in this picture is on top of the throttle cables and is pointing to the wire going to the head light is. In order to get the cables over the top, I needed to remove them from the chrome housing. I didn’t want to try and fit the chrome housing through the small space and scratch it when getting the cables off was so easy. One Phillips screw holds the clamp for the top cable and then it slips right out. The bottom one is screwed in, need to release the lock nut and then turn it off. Count the number of turns to remove so you know how far is goes back in when you reinstall. No pics, but pretty easy to do. Once the cables are out of the housing, it was a simple matter of feeding them back under the wire going to the head light. The cable now goes over the wire giving extra length and better options for routing. I had to test fit the throttle over the ends a couple times to find the right routing. The mounting of the throttle housing needs a hole in the bar to hold it in place. I measured the stock hole location so the mounting would be the same on the new bars. Stock location should be 6 19/32”. The tape was slipping when I took the picture, but 6 9/16” would work. The length from the end was easy; getting it the right way vertically was more challenging. I lined up the stock bars next to the Flanders to get a good idea of where to hole should be. The rest I just eyeballed. I marked the hole and then placed the housing pin over the mark to make sure it was in the right place. The picture shows two marks, the first one was for horizontal, the second for vertical, so the lower mark is the one I was using to test with. After lining up the housing and checking the about 10 times (a little nervous about drilling a hole in the bars), I took a swig of beer and hit the mark with a punch to dent the bar. Then a couple more swallows of beer, it was time to drill. After drilling a small pilot hole, I used a graduated metal bit to enlarge the hole to the right size. I put the throttle housing in the hole and everything lined up great. Next hurdle was the brake line. The stock position is in front of the forks and there was not enough slack to position the brake reservoir properly without really putting strain on the hose. I decided that I wanted to move the hose to the back of the forks as others have mentioned doing, but I didn’t want to remove the brake hose to do it (draining system, re-bleeding, blah blah). After some fiddling, I figured out that there was not enough room to fit the reservoir between the forks and the tank without some help by removing parts. I removed the right mirror (NOTE: the threading on the right mirror is reverse, that is why there is a notch in the lock nut) and the brake handle. The headlight bucket was also in the way and had to be moved to the left. Three 8mm bolts from the inside and it was loose and moved out of the way. With the fork at the left lock, a little fiddling and slow moves, I fit the reservoir through the gap in the forks. I had to go hose first, reservoir upright and clamp hole toward fork. Sorry I didn’t get pics of that step. I did the shift without hurting anything. I can tell you it was a tight fit, but go slow and you can do it. Once I had the hose through, the main thing I was concerned about was pinching the hose between the forks and the frame or tank when the bars were at the right locks. As long as the hose is next to the fork, there was no binding or pinching. This was accomplished later by zip tying the hose to the wires. If you use Zip ties, do not pull them too tight, don't want them hurting the brake hose. Just enough to hold it in place worked. (I had to go back and take these pics because the first ones didn’t come out well so these show everything put back together.) The wires and hose for the right side going to the cruise control and the brake had to be routed under the speedo and closer to the handlebar bracket. I thought I might have to pull the tank and find more slack on the wires, but turns out just messing with the routing gave enough play. The throttle cables used to go under the bracket for the windshield, when I was done; they ended up coming through the gap in the speedo housing. I had to bend the guide down to get the cables to stay down some. This shows where the cable goes under the Speedo housing. The left side was much easier. The wires and hoses just ran tighter to the bars but there was plenty of room. When I put on the left grip, I figured I would have to use some grip tape or adhesive. I was positioning the grip in place just to test fit and after it sat for a minute or two, the thing didn’t move, so I just left it. (fortunately, it was in the right place) I figure there must have been enough adhesive residue left on it to hold. Since finishing, I have had the bike out in the sun and heat and it still doesn’t move, so I held off putting anything under it. If it shifts at all, I will put some grip tape under it. You may want to use some to start with, your call. Everything gets mounted back the same way it came off except the bar end weights (more on those at the end). There is no alignment hole for the turn signal housing, just put it the way you had it or whatever is comfortable. You will have to re-align your mirrors because of the height and pullback change, but that is easy. I am sure everyone has done that, but if not, the directions are in the owner’s manual. Before putting the speedo and the headlight back on, I moved the bars lock to lock several times to make sure there was no binding or pinching. Everything was clear, so I put her all back together. Tested the throttle several times as I went, pulling lock to lock to make sure there were no issues. Worked great with no binding. I also tested the bar height to get close. I knew I would have to adjust them after riding and I was right. I had them too high to start so I just pull the speedo back off, loosened the clamps a little and pulled them down. Just make sure they don’t hit your legs at the locks. Last step was to reset the throttle play by tightening up the cable nut and then setting the lock nut. After everything was back on, I had to wait until the next morning to test ride. Between the late hour and having consumed several Guinness drafts during the change, I opted to wait until morning. My buddy that was helping me told me when we were done that we should have got picture of the arm position with the stock bars and then with the Flanders. Of course, we didn’t think of this until after the Flanders bar was on. Oh well, not putting the stock one back on for that. I can tell you that these bars are incredible. It is so much nicer to have that extra pull back, has to be one of the best mods next to the air horns. Not sure if I notice the height change as much, but there are more options for positions overall. Here is what you can expect to see when the project is done. (Ignore the man in the mirror, he is insignificant) ======================================================================== THE STOCK BAR ENDS As promised, here is my idea for keeping the stock bar end weights. Not sure if I should have put this in a separate thread, but here it is. I have read where several people changed to the ISO grips with the Flanders handle bars, but I really like the stock grips and weights, and I don’t like the stiletto bar ends that go with the ISO grips, so I had to figure out how to put the stock weights back on. I read Freebird’s tech article on switching the stock bar end weight holders, but when I took the grips off, there were no tack welds to be found. I think they may be pressed in. I pulled on them, put a bolt in and hit it with a hammer and the things won’t budge. So that solution wasn’t going to work. I may try more later on, but I don’t want to hurt the stock bars as I plan on selling them at a later date. Here is my fix for keeping the stock bar ends. It was a little different, but it worked. I figure they need some rubber so they are flexible and absorb the vibration so I came up with this plan. I went to the hardware store and picked up a 1/4x4” bolt, ¼” flat washer and matching nut. Also picked up a nylon spacer, 1” long, 1/2“ OD and .257” ID. They are in the bins at Home Depot in the bolt isle. I cut the spacer in half with a hack saw at a heavy angle so it looked like this: Then I ran the bolt through the weight and the spacer, putting a washer in between the spacer and the nut on the end. The theory being that if the spacer is pulled together, it will expand as I tightened the bolt. Next I covered the spacer with a strip of old inner tube I had lying around (kind of a pack rat). I wrapped it until it was the same diameter as the inside of the handle bars, about 7/8”. I had to keep test fitting and cutting back on the amount of tubing until it was snug inside the bar. The final layer was a short piece of grip tape (from changing my golf club grips, again, I am a packrat). Make sure the first layer of rubber hits the nut to keep it from moving. I could have glued the nut to the spacer, but this worked too. I ended up with the tape because I found the rubber would slip a little while trying to tighten the end down. Now it’s ready to fit into the bar. Before putting it in the last time with the tape, I put a light layer of lighter fluid on the tape. This allowed the rubber and tape to slip into the hole and evaporates pretty fast. After it set for a minute to let the lighter fluid evaporate, I twisted the bar end clockwise and it snugged right up. I tugged a couple of times and it held. It took several attempts to get it right, including pushing rubber into the throttle, and having to thump the left one with a rubber mallet to seat it, but with a little patience, it worked. I have ridden the bike several times since I did this and the bar ends are just as tight as when I started. I was a little worried about losing one, but it seems to be holding. If this changes and one pops out, you folks will be the first to know. I am still going to try and get the stock nuts out of the stock bars, but that is later. Hope this helps some of your folks out. (I can tell you this. I have a new respect for all the contributors who have written articles for the tech library.)

Does anyone have a source for H4 headlight plugs? I have a pair of headlights coming that I want to hook up to the stock Hi/Lo beam switch through a pair of relays. If I can get some male and female H4 plugs and sockets the wiring can be kept reversible back to stock.

Does anyone have any experience with the Yamaha OEM Longhorn handlebars? I've been looking at them and wondered just how different they are from the stock bars. With the stock bars I kind of feel like I'm reaching for the grips. I'd like to bring them back a little and maybe in a touch so my shoulders are bit more relaxed. I know there's a lot of talk about Flanders bars out there but I was wondering about the Longhorns too, which nobody seems to talk much about. Also, I have a 2006 RSTD. If I were to go with Flanders, what part number would I need? Thanks in advance for all the replies. My God I love this site.

Ride a 2007 RSTD. I want to lower the height of the stock brake pedal. This means I want the existing brake pedal rubber to be about 2 inches lower than stock. Any suggestions on how to do this? Thanks, please email me your response at fubar dot kiss at gmail dot com.

Took the barons lowering links off today and went back to stock, thanks for the links BIG TOM. I left the rear caliper relocation bracket alone and just put the stock links back on as Hulign said quick and easy and if for some reason I want to go back I can. Thanks to Hulign for all his imput. I still have a Barons kit in the front may got back to stock there as well and slide the tubes up. Took the scoot out and it seems much better and coners better as well.

As you may have seen in a previous thread, I have recently purchased and installed the 4 pc Ultimate Seat set + passenger armrests. The weather here sucks, but I've managed to get 300+ km in since the installation and I'm ready to share my results. Customer Service / Delivery: I purchased from the website with no human contact necessary. Automated emails notified me of the completed purchase, and in due course, that the products had been shipped. There was a bobble by UPS during shipping when the parcel went astray in Moncton NB, but it was corrected and was still delivered ahead of the projected schedule. Definitely not the supplier's fault. Packaging: Sturdy cardboard boxes, with each piece individually wrapped in bubble wrap. It would have taken a significant event to cause damage during shipping. Fit and finish: No detectable flaws in the material, stitching, assembly etc. Installation: Wide backrest: one of the washers embedded in the back around the screw holes seperated. Pressed back in to position and it stayed. Fit and finish, including screw hole line up - perfect. Rider backrest: Slotted in securely and easily. Wide range of adjustment for angle. Backrest pouch: Not exactly sure what I'm going to use this for yet, but it's well made and fitted. Passenger seat: The stock mount with 3 points of attachment had to be removed to be replaced by the supplied single point mount. There were contact pads that supported the front spread over the same area that the stock mount covered. Rear bracket was not quite in contact with the fender when originally placed in position but tightening the rear screw hand tight fixed that. Riders seat: Rear bracket fitted securely into position. The front screw holes did not initially line up. I sat my 260 lbs on it and it shifted a bit. Got off and looked - yup - precisely in place. Riding position: I'm about 1 1/2" higher, 1" forward. Not bad at all. Changed my arm angle slightly but not enough to matter, and I became accustomed to it quickly. Comfort: Intially stiff, but this did not cause a worry as it had been reported by other reviewers. It's quickly molding to my shape and becoming more confortable every time I sit on it. Riding: I'm not precisely sure why, but I find I feel more 'connected' to the bike. My confidence in low speed handling has improved. The one middle distance trip I've made with it was a real eyeopener. Km after km, it just felt right, like my leather recliner in the TV room. The stock seat would have had me wriggling after 20-30 minutes trying to ease the ache. I do find that vibration may be moving the backrest adjustment screw as I ride. I'm going to give it a few more long runs until I'm sure exactly where I want the backrest positioned and then I'll loctite it. Passenger: I've taken 3 of my children for rides with it. All agree that the wider backrest, more comfortable seat and arm rests allow them to sit back and enjoy the ride. My 9 year olds find that they cannot get their feet flat on the boards any more because the rider backrest is in their way. ( I expect they'll grow) My DW has sat on it and pronounced it 'comfortable' but she hasnt been on the road on it yet. Price: There's a bit of sticker shock with this one, but if you can get past that I feel it's an extremely satisfactory solution to a very unsatisfactory stock seating set. If anyone has any questions about the seat or installation, please feel free to PM.

Has anyone done or know of someone chroming the stock RSV wheels? I would like to do this to mine, but would like some feedback. I am not interested in aftermarket wheels.