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Showing results for tags 'seals'.
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I'm in the process of doing a fork seal replacement and was wondering...is it best to pull the anti-dive leads out at the "dash" and route them back in afterwards or can I remove the unit on the fork tubes and re-install it? This is a "quickie" replacement and I won't be taking the tubes apart. I'll just be sliding the old seals out along the tubes and the new ones back in the same way after pulling the fork tubes out of the "tress".
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I need some fork seals installed on an 86 Yamaha Venturre. Is this something we can do at Don's maintenance day or is this an extensive job?
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Hey I just bought a 07 venture with 3200 miles and and have some popping, I carried it to a dealer and they want about $ 890.00 to clean the carbs/ replace "bowl" seals "needle jets" in short $ 500.00 in labor and $ 400.00 in parts.....
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Are there any preferences on brands or where they come from? I was thinking of ordering seals from All Balls Racing. They appear to be superior seals. I think fork bushings are going to have to come from Yamaha. I have not found an aftermarket for them yet. Any input will be appreciated.
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...by the front tire with oil having run down the fork. Looks like an oil seal has gone - has it really been that cold? Just kidding...they do have to be replaced eventually! I noticed a nice explanation (By Freebird) in the Tech section on how to replace the seals without removing the forks and it seems to apply to the MKII two models as well as the MKI's. Does anyone know if there's anything new to be added to the explanation? Can the anti dive be disabled at this point? If I do disable it, should I replace the springs? I only put a few hundred miles on the since I got it last October (We have this ugly thing called winter around here that has precluded more riding) so I really haven't had much of a chance to see how it will handle a larger load than just me. The previous owner thought that the bike only had 60,000 KM (about 37,500 miles), but judging from the wear and tear on various bits and pieces I suspect that the mileage may be more like 160,000 KM (100,000 miles) but I don't know what has been replaced other than tires and brake pads. (Who produces a long distance touring machine with only 5 digits on the odometer - plus the tenths, of course? What were they thinking?) On my Triumph, the practice has usually been to replace the bushings at the same time as the seals, since a bad bushing has been known to shorten the seal's life. Is this a good idea for the VR as well? Well, that should be enough questions for now. Time to start sourcing parts and wishing I was rich...and handsome and 30 years younger and...oh never mind. That line of thought just gets depressing!
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I know from reading some past posts that there are a few members here who have updated their front suspension. Since ill have my forks apart for polishing soon I figure this would be a good time to do some upgrading. What is the best choice for a modified front suspension: the Racetech Emulators and a better spring or would Progressive springs alone be enough? Does the emulators replace the air bags in the forks? What about seals? Do these kits come with the necessary seals? Any special tecniques needed for this project? Best synthetic fork oil to use? Part #'s would help. Some of the sites only list springs for the earlier tour deluxe models, not the RSV. Thanks....
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For those of you that have replaced/repacked the Swing Arm bearings, did you replace the bearings seals or were you able to somehow got them out without destroying the seals? If you somehow got out, how?
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At 20k my rear brake was worn out and took the rotor and the piston seals with it, now 15k later same happened (didn't lose the seals this time). Plus the pads wore differently inside was the one that wore out the quickest, outside pad looks new. My question is how often does everyone replace their pads on the rear (fronts are fine and I use them more than the rear). Is this kind of wear nomal? It looks like I'm going to have to every 10k to be on the safe side. Thoughts PLEASE
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Tonight I decided to pull off my clutch lever to clean out the junk in there.. I'd been having some odd noises from the lever and it felt kind of odd from time to time.. So apart it went tonight.. and wow, what a frikken mess in there! Take off the nut, turn out the pivot bolt, and pull the lever off making sure to catch the brass holder.. everything was dark gunk mess in there.. no wonder it was feeling weird. A good cleaning and I discover the dust boot is torn to heck, exposing the push rod (plunger) to the elements.. Hmm wondering how munged up it might be inside of all there? I got everything re-assembled and lubed it up with Moly for now as I can't figure out what's best to lube it all up with properly. The one thing I do notice now is though the lever travels sooo much easier, it's also a lot more sloppy than before. I thought I might have dropped a sleeve from the pivot pin but no.. its simply just sloppy fitting now that all the junk it removed. I did notice that the brass holder is deformed and worn, and that the dust boot is torn. I'll go down to the shop and order each a new one.. however, how hard is it to install that boot? Considering the mess that I found, and the amount of slop in the lever play now, might it be worth my while to have the whole thing cleaned out and rebuilt with new seals? The book says to replace the piston seals every 2 years? I ride the bike a lot and in all kinds of weather.. the fluid tends to appear old prematurely, I wonder now if this is where some contamination might be coming in.. ? Thoughts, ideas or comments appreciated..
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Anyone have a lead on the hf grease seal for their trailers? HF stocks bearing but not seals. Took my off to repack the bearings. Several auto parts stores and a trailer shop didn't have one that works. Got the closest fit and it's spitting grease. Thanks
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This is an update to my previous front bearing question. Here is the general info on the bearings:file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/user/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=yamaha+venture+front+bearings&_sacat=10063&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=10063&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=yamaha+venture+front+bearings&_sacat=10063&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=10063&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 All the bearings and seal required to refit a wheel in one convenient package. -Premium high-speed bearings feature low drag, double lip seals on both sides to provide superior exclusion of water and dirt and improved grease retention. -High performance Chevron SRI-II grease features special rust inhibitors for the most demanding applications. -Type TC, Nitrile Elastomer wheel seals are specifically designed to keep out water and dirt. The rubber coated outside diameter creates an optimum seal at the hub. -Made by All Balls. Hope this clarifies my question. The blue seal can be removed and reset. cimack77
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My seals are leaking now and I'm bottoming out easily. I don't have any new springs or seals to put in and I'm just not wanting to miss a sunny day My seals are leaking now and I'm bottoming out easily. I don't have any new springs or seals to put in and I'm just not wanting to miss a sunny day on the road. Today I will add oil to the front tubes but I was wondering....can a person put some Power Steering Stop Leak in the tubes to help the seals? (I did try the trick of lifting the dust cover and running a bead on top of the seal. This helped a little. Did not last long though.) What if any effect would this thickener/stop leak have on the performance/operation of the tubes?
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How long should fork seals last? I thought I had them licked on my blue bike from back early in the '08 season, or perhaps it was '07. On the way home from work this evening though, I noticed that my port side fork is leaking again big time. I also changed the bushings when I last did the seals and I only used genuine Yama parts. They have both been clean as a whistle ever since, up to today. Would gators help, or do they just mask the problems? Brian H.
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I have finally got my 1987 replacement engine taken apart to install the Vmax cams. I decided to pull the heads and do a valve job. The seller said it had about 40k miles on it and it looks very good inside. The manual says to install new valve oil seals when reinstalling the valves. These little guys are almost $12 each and there are 16 of them! Anybody have experience or opinion about reusing these oil seals?
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I saw a comment somewhere about making your own exhaust seals on the first gen out of copper wire. Can somebody expound upon this please? It sounds ingenious.
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Hi all! A new member here with a question for the guys who know. I unseized the pistons, cleaned the calipers, polished the bores and pistons with 2000 Wet O Dry but I think the seals are shot. I actually believe them to be the originals. Haha. The Question: Where do you get your caliper rebuild kits and what do they come with, IE: pins, pistons, dust seals, etc? Any details would help! Chris -
I ordered some fork seals for the venture. A whole $8. Are they a pain to replace? I am an accomplished mechanic, but have never torn into fork seals on any scoot before. Anything I need to watch out for?
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How much would you pay far a complete rear brake job ---- rotor pistons and seals and the labor to do it
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I asked in another thread but I think it got buried... I am replacing my clutch and front brake lines with braided stainless (2002 RSMV) and, of course, flushing the systems thoroughly with clean brake fluid. I'm flushing the rear brake but not planning to replace the lines. As far as I know, these are the original lines and I have no idea whether the previous owner ever did any service on the systems. I don't have any obvious issues but its definitely time for some preventative maintenance. Anyway, Yamaha says to replace the oil seals in the master cylinder (every 2 years, I think). Does anyone do this if they don't have a problem? Is it easy? What about any seals in the slave cylinders? Anything else I should know before I dive in? Thanks Ross
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So I think the front fork seals are weeping on my bike. When I had it up on a lift there is an accumulated dirt/goo under the right fork. Went by my dealer, they verified that it is still under warrant (that took some doing), and supposedly called Yamaha and was told that fork seals are NOT covered under the 5 year warranty. Anybody know any different? -
Here is my dilemma. When I removed the slave cylinder the rubber item you see illustrated as "C" was installed. As you can tell by the way it is warped and too large to be the proper seal I can onlyl assume it was wrongly installed by the PO. So, I ordered the factory "Push Lever Seal Kit" from mother Yamaha and it finally arrived today. But rather than being a one piece seal, it is two very different seals. Now I am trying to figure out just how this two piece seal kit is suppose to be installed on the slave. The two piece seal is both A and B as shown. "B" appears to fit perfectly as shown in pics 5 - 9, but for the life of me, I simply cannot figure out what to do with seal "A". Does anyone have the knowledge if both seals are suppose to be used or just Item "B"? I have tried to provide goods pics and hope they are suitable. I look forward to any assistance provided. Forgot to mention, this is for a MKII 1st Edition. -
has anyone ordered fork seals from pyramid parts? Satisfied?
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Do I have to worry about the YICS when synching the carbs? I looked at the tech tip and it didn't say anything about it. On the XJ11 there is a special plug that seals it off.
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What KInd of fork seals and dust caps does everybody use for replacements?
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I have a Gen 1, 1989 Venture that has some ongoing problems with the rear brake. When I bought the bike, I noticed the rear brake pedal was very soft and about bottoming out. I removed the rear saddlebag to discover that the seals were blown out of the caliper. Bought the seals, rebuilt the caliper and thought everything was fine. Used the recommended fluid. Was very careful not to overfill the reservoir. I was out riding at the end of the season when the bike started lugging. I came to a stop light and to my amazement the bike wouldn't move. I managed to get it to the side of the road and called my wife to bring the trailer. No fluid on the ground, no issues other than I could detect heat coming from the rear brake area. Brake pedal hard as a rock. I tried to move the bike until my wife got there, no luck and while I was deciding what to do, - for some reason - pulled up on the foot brake pedal and voila - the brake instantly released! Brought the bike home and re bled the rear and front linked brake. I has happened twice more with the same result. Give it a few minutes and pull up on the brake pedal and the bike frees up. What is concerning is the wear and tear on the brake, clutch and drive train from the brake slowly tightening as I drive. Would you figure the master cylinder is suspect? Thanks Jim
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