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Showing results for tags 'screws'.
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We had a couple of nice days and I was able to get out for a ride. I had picked up some road crud and so I decided to clean the windshield. That is when I found it very loose. I popped the trim piece and found four very loose screws and one completely out. I could not believe they had grown so loose on 2,000 miles since install. When I installed the windshield, I had tightened the screws as much as possible after hearing the problems one of our members had with his windshield coming off at 60 mph. Just wanted to let anyone with a Clearview Windshield to know they may need to check the windshield. Be Safe
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While rebuilding the carberators on my 87' VR this past weekend, one of the hardest things was getting those phillips screws out of carb. covers! What a pain. I destroyed over half of them removing them. I searched all over town and bought a few boxes of Stainless Steel metric Allen Head cap screws and some really nice Stainless Steel flat washers to give my rebuild a nice "Custom Touch". After I bought the cap screws, I polished the heads of the cap screws on my buffing wheel to a mirror finish. I have a few sets of these cap screws left over and If anyone would like a set I have placed an ad in the Classifieds, the link is below. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/1643 I think you will find the quality of this hardware to be excellent! It was purchased from a Marine supply house and to top it off I have hand polished the head of every cap screw to a mirror finish! For our members North of the border, the shipping might be a bit more but I will only charge the actual shipping cost, nothing more. Paypal is prefered, Checks take a while to clear. You will get 16 cap screws and 16 washers, enough to do all 4 carbs.! Shipping is included to the lower 48 states. -
I recently saw a used RSV at the local dealership, the previous owner had replaced the saddlebag mounting screws with screws that had knobs on the end, thus ending the need for the allen wrench everytime you want to remove and clean behind the bags. I haven't found them anywhere. Anybody got any suggestions? Trooper
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My wife Debbie and I were on our way to Missouri for a week mc vacation yesterday. We were east of Jay, Ok. about 8 miles. I had just passed two vehicles that were tailgating each other slowing down, speeding up and just plain irritating. I went around them at about 90 miles per hr. faster than ussual and because they speeded up as I was passing them I didn't realize my speed. I had slowed down to about 80 and my windshield broke loose and hit me on the nose and mouth and almost knocked me out. I was able to maintain control until I found a place to pull over and thankfully we are still here to tell about it. After regaining my composure and cleaning the blood We rode to Grove to the emergency rm. long story short no broken nose or facial bones but a deep gash in the cartalege of my nose and a sore cheek bone, broken visor on my helmet and destroyed sunglasses. We stayed the night in a motel in Grove, Ok. and rode back home about 120 miles today without a windshield. I had a clearview xx tall, wide shield with the vent. The shield snapped loose and broke at the two fasteners just below the vent. Ironically the perfect storm because the shield fits in slots on either side and when the shield snapped at the two screws that hold the windshield on it immediately came flying back at me. I think the integrity of the shield strength is compromised due to the vent and the location of the only two screws that hold the windshield in place being just below the vent. If for any reason these two screws fail or the shield snaps at that location the same thing could and would happen to anyone. I am sharing this as a warning to any one with the clearview or any other brand shield with the vent positioned as those are. There isn't much material between the screws and the vent. Also the material used is resistant to scratching, but more prone to chips as I have heard other clearview customers state on this site which leads me to believe that the material used is a harder plastic than the stock shield thus being more brittle and less pliable which could also explain it snapping without warning or apparent damage to the shield before this experience. I have also read threads here on this site of stress cracks apparent in some clearview shields. I also theorize that the clearview shield w/out the vent may be much stronger and this problem may not arise. I loved my clearview shield and it appears to be made of very good quality. The clearview people all seem to be great people. In other words I have nothing against clearview, but I want people on this site to be warned of the possibility of experiencing what I have and we are lucky to be here to tell about it. I am also going to send pics and this same information to clearview to alert them of the potential for the shields failing. The next person may not be as lucky as we were. If there is anyone with similar experiences or have anything to add It could possibly save a life or lives. Of all the things that can possibly go wrong with a motorcycle or other catastrophies while riding I never expected my wind shield to break loose.
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HELP!!!!! I don't know why they made these little screws that hold the side storage "bags" to the mounts SO TIGHT!!! Here's my problem: I wanted to remove the bags for maint. however, in the process I stripped the heads, the cavity where the tool goes in to loosen them up. Now I can't get them off. HELP!!!!! I bought the bike used and at some point before I bought it, the previous owner had the dealer put on new tires. So, I assume the mechanic either tightened the screws too much or put that blue Loctite on them.
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Hi folks new here. This is bike http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/Torkk/Virago/IMG_2569.jpg Im having some issues atm, Mainly I have no clue where the pilot mix screws should be set at. They were messed with by the previous owner. I checked em today LF 4 turns LR 7 turns RF4.25 turn and the RR I cant check its frozen and the head is messed up the screw driver wont bite on it. Does anyone know what the screws should be set at? How do I remove a frozen pilot screw?
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I found this tip on the Venturers site...ordered the caps from Reidsupply and aquired the bolts from local Sears hardware...works great!! Inexspensive alternative to more exspensive mod seen on e-bay and other sites... You can easily make your own quick removal bolt set for your saddlebags. No tools needed to remove the bags for service or cleaning. Parts needed for 1-bike are 6 ea. M6X36 and 2 ea. M6X55 socket head cap screws with 1.0 thread pitch. The t-cap heads can be ordered from Reidsupply.com and the item number is SLK-1200. If you want to see the screws the item # are brb-532086p and brb-532094p and there is a limit of 100 each on the bolts, but not on the plastic T-heads. I was able to find my cap screws locally and I didn't have to buy more then I needed. Check with your local hardware store, Lowe's or Home Depot. Just press the T-Caps onto the bolt heads in a vice or small press. I used a drill press to push them in. Also thanks go to Gunny (Butch) for his help to me......Ken http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/Bolts&Caps1.jpg http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/DrillPress.jpg http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/Bolts&Caps3.jpg I used a large C-clamp to press the caps on the bolts...works well...I hope that this helps someone! -
Hi all, Does anyone have a fuse holder for the accessory fuse, my one's snapped, it the small white red wire that screws into the fuse box. I've looked for new holders, crimping type but can't find any. -
Class/CB panel attachment fix
BJB posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Don't ask me how this happens LOL, but if you have problems with the Class/CB panel cracking around the hold down screws this may help you. Since all of mine were cracked and broken, I removed all the screws (6) and replaced them with m4-0.7x25 metric screws. I also went to hardware store (home hardware in Canada) and picked up 6 beveled washers in size 00 in the facet section. Simply thread the screw through the washer and then through the panel. It's not as neat as the original recessed screws with caps, but it does hold the panel down and doesn't look all that bad. Hope this helps someone in the same situation. See attached photos. -
Anyone know a good source for the screws that hold the reservoir covers? I ordered two chrome covers and I assumed they would come with chrome screws (ass u me). Actually, they didn't come with screws at all and the dark grey screws that come on the bike don't look good with the chrome reservoir covers. I am also looking to replace the screws that hold that piece of chrome above the gas cap with chrome ones.
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Help!,:starz: I am trying to adjust my idle mixture settings on my carbs on my 99 blvd. 4 piper and I can"t get the brass looking caps off?? What is the best method, I'm a little scared to drill em out and so far I'm having no luck. Also are the pilot screws flat head or phillips? I am doing this to try to eliminate some backfire on decel . Thanks -
I posted this in "Wanted to Buy" section, but I figured I would take up everyone's time by posting it in here too. I am in need of a radio control housing for a 2nd gen. Mine has cracked where the mounting screws are and is getting very shaky. If anyone has one that they would part with, with or without the control, please let me know. Thanks
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Yesterday I went to the Dealer and purchased some Kuyakyn Iso-grips for the Star. You'ld think that scince I've installed the same grips on my '01 Roadstar and my wife's '06 Mean Streak a a few other bike that this would be easy. Not so. The left grip went on with out any problems. But, when it came to the throttle grip. that was another story. It seems that the good folks at Yamaha H.Q. have dicided that too many of you people were messing around with "Thier" fine motorcycles. So in an effort to curtail this they have installed accessory proof screws on their bikes. It works like this... One of you ingrates goes in to the dealer and "buys" a Yamaha motocycle. You go home with your new bike. You decide that "your" new bike needs a personal touch ( i.e. grips ). You buy some grips. You go home with your new grips. You observe that the throttle housing assembly is fasened together with "Phillips head screws". You find the appropriate "Phillips head" screw-driver in your tool box. You place the srewdriver tightly on the screw. You turn the srewdriver in a counter-clock wise motion. It strips. That sound you heard yesterday at 5:30 Pm Central daylight time, "@#&*% YAMAHA!!!", was just the wind.
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Hi, this is my first attemp at this so please bear with me? My wife, Claudia Ann and i have 2 of the 1st Gen XVZs, a 1984 and a 1990. I have purchased shop manuals for each but find nothing in the manuals about either setting the idle mixture screws or how to find them on the carbs. I've read other threads that talk about the proper setting being 2 - 2 1/4 turns CCW from very carefully closed position. That's great, but i've looked at the carbs on both bikes several times and have not found what would even seem to me to be 'idle mixture screws'. I have even purchased parts manuals for both bikes and the exploded parts diagrams of the carbs and accompanying parts list does not list 'idle mixture screws' anywhere so i cannot tell even looking at these diagrams where they might be. Does anyone know what Yamaha calls these screws if it is something different than 'idle mixture screws'? It might be less confusing for those of us that new to this sort of thing if in the threads everyone would use Yamaha's term/names for parts and what is being discussed. How about a few pics to show where they are located? Anyway, thanks in advance for any help offered! fmandcac -
If I was to start with a baseline adj on the carbs, what would it be. I know that the Idle air screws are 2.25 out, but what about the screws in between the carbs?
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Anyone know where to get replacement screws?
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The only issue I have with my 99 RSV is that the screw heads in the tour pack and in the fairing strip out too easily. Does anyone know where to get replacement screws? Thanks, -
Greetings. Can anybody tell me where the idle mixture screws are located on the 28mm Mikuni carbs (1998 Tour Classic)? Just cant seem to find these little buggers. I am having the exhaust popping and would really like to get rid of it. Have already run through a full tank of new fuel with cleaning additives (carb and injector cleaner) and it still pops. No holes in or around the Y pipe weld and all exhaust gaskets seem to seal perfectly. I plan to install the Dyna 3000 module in the near future but not at the moment. Any help or/and advice would be very much apreciated.
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Hi all. I want to fit the front fairings and plastics to my 1983 Yamaha XVZ1200 Venture Royal, to make sure every thing's there, where do I start and what screws rubber mountings do I need as I know I'm missing most, if not all the mounting screws etc, I've just got the fairings and plastic inserts. Thanks all.
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Just got these from South Seattle Sports Plaza (best price on the web for accessories)...went to remove screws from each carb to mount and only one moved...and came out...the others on in there solid as concrete...anyone here have a problem removing these carb screws?...If adding accessory or not...I may have already stripped one...Waiting till Saturday to take time and see what up....I thought I could just go take off....put on... A little help if anyone has some input... George In Virginia
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Anyone come up with a replacement cap to cover the 6 allen screws that hold the CB and coolent res. Door?
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Need help Lowering the Front end
wolfman1 posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I'm NOT the most mechanically inclined, but can do a lot if I've seen it done once before. The problem: I've been following the directions and have finally gotten the front fairing off (one allen bolt on my passing lights was stripped and I I had a lot of trouble getting it off, but did get it off). NOW THE PROBLEM: the directions say I need to take the back side of the fairing loose. It mentions two 12 mm nuts that need removal from behind the headlight 5 mm allen head screws beside the head light. Does anyone out there have any pics of these locations and the nuts and screws in question. Either I'm nuts or something, but for the life of me I can't figure this part out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve:bang head: -
Does anyone know anything about installing these? If you do, why do the 4 threaded holes (female) on the light mounting bar for the wind deflectors not take the stock screws that I took off the original Yamaha Venture light bar? I tried to tighten with my fingers before I put a tool on all 4 bolts in all the 4 mounting holes and they would not thread. Any ideas? The lamps are stamped made in USA so I'm thinking maybe they are SAE and not metric? -
what is the best starting point for the pilot screws? ie 2 turns from bottom?
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My Cassett player has been eating tapes, running slow, and would Not Reverse tape direction. I decided its time to replace the belts, and do some work on it. After opening up the unit, back side, the Y shaped piece of metal over the two Fly Wheels has to be removed to replace the 3 Belts. After doing this, and re-installing, the Unit was running very slow, and stopped. Impression was that of Excessive Friction. I took it apart again and found the following. In the First photo, note where I Marked with 2 Arrows. I had applied too much torque to these 2 #1 phillips head screws. I removed the y shaped metal again and realized that the Center Axels , of the Flywheels run's against this piece of metal. I guess you would call it a friction bearing. If you over torque the two screws, you slow down the flywheel rotation, too much friction. Anyway, I applied some greese to these two Points, under the metal piece, ( Under the two points I marked with an " X " ) Re-installed, and left the two small screws, much looser, and applied some lock tite to them. I also applied 3-in-1 Oil to all the rotating gears, and moveing parts. Layed unit on bike, plugged it into power, and Wa La!! it worked great. And the auto reverse is working good now. Anyway, before you throw away your old unit , or give up on it, if your haveing trouble with it , give this a try. Don't forget to clean the Tape Head. -
I made a revision on my Harber Freight tire changer today. Was looking at NoMar tire changer site the other day and noticed they had a new clamp down for their changer which uses some small plastic spools. I then found that they sold the spools and screws for $12. Did a search for options on purchace of spools and found an article on a GL1800 forum were a guy had added these spools to his HF. So I ordered the spools and purchased 3 ea. 3" x 1-1/2" x 1/4" flat bar and taped for the screws on the 1/4" plate and then mounted them on the HF tire changer. Had to change the front tire so I tried it out and it worked great. Just a little slip but you can strap a spoke to the cross bar and take care of that.The tire no longer pops out while trying to get the tire over the rim on the first bead. No more worrying about scrathed rims using rags or thin rubber. It worked great. This is the spools. I used 2 washers under the spools so they now give plenty clearance for the disk. The screws are 5/16 x 18 . A few pics of the set up. On one pic you can see the rideon on the rim (some had ask how messy it was). Just wiped it off with a damp rag. Very little gets on the rim, see the 2 pics of the tires and all of the rideon is lined all the way around the bottom of the tire.
