Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'plug'.
-
Was having problem with #3 not firing. I checked for spark, plug was good but replaced anyway, cleaned all plug wire caps and check resistance, all no help. While bike was idleing I adjusted the sync screw for 3 and 4 a little bit each way, no help. ( I have a carbune ordered) I let bike sit a day, bolted tank back up and was going to run it that way for the weekend. When I startedthe bike, it's running worse. ONly on 2 cylinders now. #3 is now firing. # 1 and 4 are not. Any thoughts? Ok, so after more troubleshooting here's what I've found. Pulled the air box, hooked up a funnel with gas, kept bike running, there is gas going into all carbs when running, fuel pump is working., So, must be electrical
-
Just put bike back on road after 2 months, it was running rough, #3 ? cylinder, (right rear) was not firing as the pipe did not heat up. After searching this site, I took apart the spark plug cap on this and found corrosion on the spring. Cleaned it up, and now running like new again.
-
As ya'll know I did the "gauge conversion" last spring. After a summer of driving, I found recently that the "main fitting" (that M20-1.50 oil drain plug that replaces the stock plug in the side of the engine that we tap into) was leaking oil. I had used a nylon washer. When I removed it, I found that the threads were quite chewed up ... not stripped but more like "flattened". Like the sharp edge of the thread had been filed down. Any ideas about this? Are these threads not exactly the same as the plug that comes out of that hole? I'm concerned about re-using it now. There seems to still be sufficient thread depth to hold it in but .... to me, it should look normal after unscrewing it. Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions? I wonder if wherever I got the oil plug from that they gave me a wrong one...or is that even possible. What is better than a nylon washer? I'm thinking the washer somehow shrunk from compaction and heat to cause the leak because it was fine for most of the summer. I just noticed this recently after parking the bike for the winter.
-
Well it looks like I need a larger stator..... I only have the yamaha passing lamps and a set of Motolights and the bike cant handle it... Drains the battery.... if I turn off the 55 watt Moto lights I could save the 8.3 amps... but I bought them to be seen....... I was going to pull the plug on the carb heaters, but this is wisconsin......I ride until it snows...never too cold with the buckeye stator I hope to have more than enough power -
I am getting ready to wire up my scoot for a trailer and this place has everything I needed including an adaptor for the lights which plugs into the light plug under the seat.....suppose to be no splicing. It's made for the RSV's. It is so new that they don't have it listed on the web page yet. I haven't gotten it yet (but it is ordered). It is suppose to be a plug and play sort of deal. I'll let yo know how it turns out. http://www.electricalconnection.com/index2.htm
-
There is a cast-in boss running across the top of the rear end drive, just aft of the joint between the torque tube and the drive. There is a rubber plug in the end of that boss. I need an attachment point and it looks like there might be a threaded hole behind the plug. The plug is very tight and I might destroy it while removing it. Does anybody know if there is a threaded hole behind it? Thanx, Woody -
Why is it those meteorologists gotta be throwing that "s***" word around so willy nilly and all so early in the fall already?! If I plug my ears and pretend I never heard it, will it stay away?
-
My bike failed to crank and what I found was the fuse on the side of the starter silenoid was corroded, more than likely from road salt from being ridden in north Ga. What I did was removed the silenoid assem. removed the plastic peice that hold the fuse and the wiring harness plug, then pulled the metal prongs the fuse and plug mounts to out, the top peiced that bolts to the hot side of the silenoid I removed completely. Bought a fused link ( heavy duty $3.99 at oriely's) soidered a electrical end on one end of the link, and the other end to the spot where the fuse plugged to the blades that the wiring plug connects to. You have to grind some of the plastic away to put the blades back in. But now my fuse is behind ths side cover, and easy to access. I should have taken pictures but was in a hurry to get the bike running. if anyone else is having this problem and wants to perform this fix let me know and I will try to draw a diagram, or come help if your close enough. Gregg
-
Never fails I got the title in the mail my 04 Silverado is paid in full. I started the truck up last night and the service engine light came on but it runs fine. No time to have it checked and I'm leaving for New York this week.There used to be a paper clip shorting method on the under dash service plug that would spit out the error codes. I think those had the 12 pin diagnostic plugs. Mine has a 16 pin plug under the drivers side dash Is there a way I can put it in test mode to get the stored error code. It is probably something mnor but I need to know before leaving.
-
OK, I always seem to do things bassackwards. A couple of weeks before the '99 Venture grabbed me by the throat and said BRING ME HOME, I bought a MotoCom RiderLink system for the RSTC. Now that I have the Venture, I'd like to adapt the RiderLink head sets to the Venture. It first looked like all I needed was a PC keyboard adapter to go from the RiderLink PS2 plug to the Venture 5 pin DIN plug. Well being the pack rat that I am I had the PC adapter. Well I guess the pin-outs are different. I hooked it up but get no sound out. Anyone have any suggestions? Walter
-
Gerbings Heated Gear and my 09 RSV
csogbk posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I just purchased my 09 RSV last month and as the temps turn somewhat cooler I am looking at installing my Gerbings. I have the pack that connects to the battery and controlls two inputs with adjustable knobs. Does anyone know off the bat if the 09 RSV will support that much power useage (ie jacket liner, gloves and pants)? I have no passing lamos or anything installed, would perhaps plug my ipod / gps in the accy. plug, I know I could add up all the watts but was hoping someone already knew?! From the Gerbings Website the following watts are used, I would assume when the item is on at full power: Jacket 77 Watts Pants 44 Watts Gloves 22 Watts -
Ok, Got it home and unloaded. Took it out for a shakedown cruise. WOW!!! I know it needs a carb sync. It accelerates well and runs really smooth at highway speeds, but will not come back to idle and I can hear the exhaust hitting harder from the right muffler at idle. The cruise does work fine. I went ahead and put a whole can of Sea Foam in the 1st fill up, to see if that will help. At this point the only thing I see that REALLY won't work is the "Select" button on the dash. I guess (didn't get an owner's manual with it) that changes the odometer display to the 2 trip meters. It seems to be stuck in. I tried to pry it out a little with no success. My question is what all do I have to take off to get to it, so I can either free it up or replace it? Now I just gotta decide what to do about the missing antenna. Yeah the CB one is on the wrong side, but he did that to get the AM/FM to work, 'cause he never used the CB. Oh, does anyone know if there is an adapter to allow me to connect my Rider Link headset, with a PS2 plug to the DIN plug on the Venture? I'm gonna look for some of my old PC keyboard adapters...
-
I have one little problem remaining with my 1st Gen. The CB was working when I took her down for the makeover, now it is not working,at least some of it isnt. It powers on, transmitt icon comes on when I push to talk, and when I adjust the squelch that icon shows loc/dis..........but I am not getting any sound out of the speakers. I have checked all the connections on the cb and all the connections where they plug into the amplifer. I am stumped,its not a big deal, but I would like it to work like it did before........anyone else ever have this problem? Any help would be appreciated.
-
As many of you know, I'm a computer tech....been in the biz for 22 years and last night and this morning have been the worst experience I've ever had ... thought I'd share it coz no matter how bad something is... there's bound to be humour in it. Sunday my son brings his computer over to me to fix. It boots up with the "Blue Screen of Death" with the message UNMOUNTABLE_BOOT_VOLUME. No biggie...been there, done that and I had it fixed in 20 minutes. Last night I planned to take it over to his house... me and Nina would go for a ride on the scoot. I set the computer on the trunk rack...looks pretty stable... then walked away to grab some bungee cords and......OMG!!! it's sliding off!!! and before I could do anything it crashed to the floor breaking the case open, plastic front panel smashed to pieces... OH NO!!!... Take it upstairs and plug it all in.... nothing! ... nada... zip ... it has power but nothing comes up on the monitor..nothing at all. Neither the monitor light or the CPU light turn green like they normally do and the hard drive just clicks once but doesn't spin up. No bout a doubt it...the motherboard is shot! Ok, so I bring his hard drive in to work this morning to test it out on one of the PC's here... I open up one of the computers here and unplug the hard drive...then plug the hard drive from my son's machine in and set the hard drive on top of the corner of the open CPU box.. then I reach back to plug the power cord in and bump the hard drive, knocking it off and onto the motherboard. (&^$#@!!!&*... and more *&!!!@##) So I pick it up and set it back on the edge and power up the computer... nothing...nada ... no workie ... just like my son's. Ok, so I plug the hard drive back in that was in the system to begin with... same thing... nothing... Crap!!... so I open up another computer (both were working before I started this) and take the hard drive out of it and plug it into the first machine...same thing... nothing. I then test all the hard drives (including my son's) in the second machine and all are working. So, it looks like I've CRASHED 2 computers in the last 18 hours!! .... WHAT NEXT??? WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH :crying: Unfortunately, the PC at work is now off warranty to boot! Oh well, it's good for parts and at least my son's hard drive is still working so he hasn't lost everything.
-
I have a Husqvarna 6 3/4 horse Self Propelled Lawn mower. It is loosing power bad and has no adjustment to speak of. But that is not storyWarden was tryingto mow with it and it kept dying. I told her it might be the plug and she said "No its probally made by Harley Davidson!!" Woman is learning!!!:rotfl:
-
Gear position Indicator upgradefor standard Ventures (Non-Royales) I have installed a gear position indicating system on my 1983 Venture. This is the stock model without the dash readout from the factory. This is the second Venture I have owned. The first one was a 1984 Royale. Two of the things I really miss from that bike were the gear indicator and the cruise control. The cruise control is coming later. I have all of the stock parts now needed to install it. I obtained a Neutral Switch Assembly from a 1984 Venture Royal through an Ebay auction for under $10.00. This assembly will exchange with the stock neutral switch assembly from a standard Venture. The neutral switch assembly is located between the back end of the stator cover and the front of the middle drive. It sets back in about four inches and is difficult to see, but is accessible. Removal of the middle drive cover is needed to access. To indicate what gear the bike is in I mounted three LED lights in the gauge cluster above the volt gauge. The left light is lit it indicates 1st gear. The left light and the center lights lit indicate 2nd gear. The center light lit indicates 3rd gear. The center light and right lights lit indicate 4th gear. The left light lit indicates 5th gear. The neutral light works as normal. In neutral none of the LED’s are lit. I could also use five LED’s, using one for each gear, but I like the 3 light system as it is easy to see and once familiar with the pattern, it is very easy to determine what gear I am in with a quick glance down at the gauges. I initially used a red, green and amber LED’s but the green and amber had poor visibility in the daytime. I replaced with all red ones. I also painted the part of the LED’s that are inside of the cluster with black paint to keep the light from the instrument cluster from bleeding through the LED’s translucent housing. I used four diodes and three LED’s from radio shack for the light logic circuit. Four IN4004 rectifier diodes. Price $.99 for two Three Red LED assemblies. Price $1.99 each The new Neutral Switch Assembly has a six pin plug on the end that sets in the same area that the stator and rectifier plugs are near the fuel pump. I had two spare diode assemblies that I have obtained in the past and used the plug from one of these to mate up with the plug on the Neutral Switch cable. I had to take one extra wire connector from the second diode assy. As the diode assembly plug only used five wires. You do not need to use this connector if you do not want to though. I retained this plug as I will be replacing the wiring harness when I install the cruise control. I put the diodes in the circuit near the plug connections on the end of the neutral switch assy. I then ran three 18 gauge wires up to the instrument cluster. I used a trailer four conductor plug I had to make a connection at the instrument panel. I have attached a PDF file with pictures and a wiring schematic to install this. -
Figured I would change the plugs before I use the newly aquired Carbtune. I've looked but seem unable to locate any thread on the proceedure for spark plug installation. The rear appear a straight forward unscrew and replace. But, how are the front plugs done? Does the tank have to be moved. And the engine support brackets have to be removed? What are the torque specs for them? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
-
changed my plugs today, ive had this bike about a month, didnt ask the po about last plug change, my question is ,is it possible for these plugs to look this good, when ive only put on about 700 miles. the lower left plug is the only one discolored, the upper left is in shadow, so looks discolored, been getting 28mpg local, and 40mpg over the road. thanks for looking -
I recently received a PM from another member wanting to know how I remotely controlled my Ipod while riding. He was interested in some pictures and information on the solution I used and if it could be operated with glove. Below are a couple of pictures of the solution I have used for a couple of years without any complaints. I use a Griffin AirClick with my 4th generation 40Gb Ipod with the unit set on shuffle. I can operate the remote with my riding gloves to control the volume and play/pause the music when stopping. The buttons are alittle small for winter gloves though... I strapped the remote unit on the clutch reservoir to make it handy while riding. I put the Ipod in my fairing glove box and have it connected to a 12v plug to provide continuous power. I also ran a headphone extender out of the fairing to plug in my EarFuze earphones (great fitting units!). With this setup, I can keep the Ipod out of sight and the effects of weather.
-
Just wondering if there is an exsisting power plug somewhere on my 2007 Tour Deluxe. Wish it had the cigerett lighter type plug somewhere up front. (I saw one in JC-Whittney for around $18.00, chrome attaches to handle bars). I quess the Ventures probably have a plug on fairing, or should have. So I quess I will run the power for this from the extra power source that I read about from one of the Goose,s Tech post. I ordered a Garmin 750 ($179.00 including tax- Wallmart online) that operates from a cigerett type plug, that way I can also use it in the car/truck. I know there are more expensive GPS, but I went the poor man route. The ones made for bikes are 650 dollars to as much as 800 dollars, shewwwww.Any and all help from youall is appreciated, thank you in advance. James Oops, I just relised that I posted in venture tech SORRY. -
Just changed my oil/filter, put the drain plug back in and, using my "trusty-dusty" Harbor Freight Torque Wrench, torqued the bolt to specification. The result?? I now have a stripped drain plug bolt/oil pan. After I fork out a pretty penny to fix this, I will NOT be using another Harbor Freight tool on my baby. ANy one else ever have an issue with an H.F. Torque Wrench?
-
I came home from the M&E in Rockville Saturday evening parked the bike, I got on it this morning and it won't start. I have checked the fuses and the battery, I pulled #3 plug and grounded against the engine case,NO SPARK. The plug looks great nice and tan, no crud. It cranks just fine, I smell a little fuel, not bad. I'm a rookie so please be patient with me and tell me where to start looking. I'm going to go to town and get 4 new plugs while I working on it. Just when we get cooler weather, this stinks!!
-
I left Lil'Red sit for a while. Now it won't crank again. Seems someone helped me with this once when I was cranking it by shorting at solenoid with screwdriver. Can't remember what we did. If I short it out and crank it now I can hold plug in my hand. No Fire. NEED TO BUILD GARAGE!! Where should I start so it will start??
-
Auxiliary plug under the seat has a cap that removes and it's only purpose I can see is to waterproof the plug. Where can you get the other end to put the two (hot and neutral) wires from my GPS? The plug is already switched to "On or Acc" which is what I want. Thanks! -
just bought a 1990 been trying to trouble shoot fixed one cylinder with new plug wire and boot trying to do the same for other cylinder when i pull the plug when bike is running there is no drop in performance, also the wire will spark outside the wire when unplugged and touching the cylinder with a neww wire and boot
