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Showing results for tags 'lights'.
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Put some new LED lights on my 2009 RSV. I put them right next to the raditor right next to the ferring. They look pretty good they are chrome with 18 lights in each pod. Try them out and see how they work. PS please over look the dirt on my bike [ATTACH]60572[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]60573[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]60574[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]60575[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]60576[/ATTACH] Here is the link for the LED lights they cost a whole $14.99 with free shipping. They are coming from China and they are water resistance. They have two colors blue and white. Good Luck sorry it took me a while to get the link on. Hal http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120683535519&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123
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My RSV has the Yamaha passing lights. Presently they are aimed to converge on the ground about 20 feet in front of the bike. Not really useful at night. I tried to aim them further down the road, but I'm having a problem. While it's easy to rotate them side to side, I can't find a way to adjust them "up and down" so that they are aimed further down the road. I was going to check the headlight aiming point and aim them just below that to light up the road without blinding oncoming traffic, but I can't find a way to adjust them "up and down". Am I missing something or is this how they are supposed to work? Andy
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noticed my brake lights on trailer not working nor turn signals but had running lights. read all the forums but didnt run across my problem. checked power going into 5 to 4 connector under back seat and had all,everything right. checked power coming out and only had the running light wire hot. so bought a new 5 to 4 connector and installed it way and had power for a bit till i touch brown and green or something and had a spark while wiring trailer plug back up and now the outlet on the new connector is the same as old one, only running light wire hot.it blew a fuse[head] when i did that, can you fry the 5 to 4 connector that easy? for now i took connector off and wired brakes to red and running lights to brown right off bike wires so i at least have running lights and brakes.want to fix it right but need to know if that spark could take out my new $28.00 5 to 4 connector. help! before i spend $28.00 again and blow it.
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My RSTD has an odor of gasoline almost all of the time. I do not see any leaks at all. It runs perfect. Is there a vent tube or something I should check? When moving it isn't noticable at all, but at traffic lights stopped or even sitting in my garage with the fuel cock closed, it is still a pretty strong gas odor. Ideas?
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I've added passing lamps to my 06 RSTD and I'm having some trouble. I set up an in-line fuse on the circuit and connected it to the low beams. The whole thing is on a switch. I thought I read to that they use a 7.5 amp fuse. That's what I tied and it blew instantly. So, before I go messing around I thought I'd ask the experts. What size fuse should I be using on these passing lights. They're Yamaha OEM passing lights. Sugguestions would be quite helpful. Thanks all!!
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I want to add lights to the front and back of my 2006 Royal Star Venture any suggestions? All I have on the bike right now are the stock lights that came on it and I've been told that I'm not very visable at night. I have installed a blinking headlight module and that really helps with catching peoples attention during the day but not usable at night.
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I have looked at the threads about wiring in spot lights / running lights. I will be using a relay, mounting it under the seat, fused, etc. I am thinking that the blue wire for the taillight should be in a harnass running under the seat. Would it be sufficient to power my relay from wire running to the taillight so the spot lights are only on when the key is turned on? I am also going to wire in a manual switch up front. Will this wire / circuit handle the load of the relay? Thanks. R. -
My 06 RSV has 12.8V / 30W auxillary bulbs in it now and I would like something brighter. Before I start to experiment and blow fuses, how high can I go on the Watts before I start to blow fuses? On my last bike I actually had 40W landscaping lights and they worked well. They are the exact same bulb size as what is in there now. I am not really interested in spending a ton of money on the LEDs and I would like the lights to still match the headlight. Thanks Mongo
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hi all glad i found this org. this my first post. i have a 83 venture and i want to add some rear running lights and a second licence plate flashing brake light so the 4 wheelers can see me. i want to go with leds do you think they wont draw to much from the electrical if i just splice onto the tail light wiring? thanks for any help
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Hi there everyone. My son and I were out for a ride and got pulled over and the cop informed me that i had no tail lights. Good thing is the cop let me go and told me to get them fixed. Ok i will get to the point. I have went over the hole wiring and cannot find a broken wire and also have found out that when I apply the front brake the brake light does not work but the rear does work. Any ideas on what is up. Does the cmu have something to do with the fact that i have all the lights on the bike but now running lights on the back of the bike.
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Hi Guys, There was a thread I found when I first got on this sight 2 months ago that explained how to determine where to look for problems in the cruise control path based on the cruise control light sequence when you turn it on. I've since not been able to find it again. If someone could direct me to it, or explain the troubleshooting sequence of the lights, it would be appreciated. Also getting about 30 MPG, no difference interstate or around town. Where do I look 1st? Thanks for all and any help. Ed
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I have a 2008 RSTD and I just installed the saddlebag guards. I like them fine, except the stock turn signals now almost touch the saddlebag guards leaving a cluttered appearance. I considered purchasing a license tag set up with lights on either side that are the turn signals but then I would leave behind the holes in the rear fender from the original lights. Does anyone make a replacement that either goes onto the existing mount / stem or do any of you have any creative / attractive solutions that you have tried? Thanks. R.
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The 5 wire to 4 wire adapter that I installed has been working fine with the H/F LED light kit I put on the H/F tag along, earlier this year. This week end I added red LEDs high on the rear of the trailer for additional tail/turn/brake lights. I also added red and amber LEDs on the corners. They are hooked up with the tail light circuit and work fine. My problem is with the brake/turn circuit. The new red tail/brake/turn LEDs are wired in parallel to the original tail lights. When I turn the ignition on, the low intensity for the original tail lights and the new addition tail lights come on low intensity as they should. If I press either brake pedal, the existing tail lights go to high intensity and the new ones do to. If I turn on either turn signal the proper original turn signal blinks as it is suppose to, but the "added" light does not. If while the turn signal is blinking I press either brake, both original brake lights go to high intensity and the blinking stops, although there is a slight intensity oscillation in both sides. The converter I have is not a "Hoppy" brand. I'm wonder if The additional LEDs have exceeded the capacity of the adapter? I got this one at Ace Hardware. Where have any of you found a "Hoppy"? I need to get this fixed BEFORE Thursday, as that is when we need to head out for Vogel. And if this wasn't enough, while changing the oil this afternoon I noticed an oil drop on the bottom of the rear shock!!!
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I have a problem at red lights. The sensor in the road doesn't see the RSV. I added a green light trigger magnet and it still dosen't see it. My last bike was a 04 V-Star and it triggered the lights just fine. Anyone have any ideas? I have a large bar magnet that I'm thinking of strapping to the underside of the bike.
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Has anyone encountered THIS one before? At the end of the season last fall I had my lines and cables switched over to black braided steel which look good, feels good.. However, at the end of the season, I was no longer able to engage cruise control on the bike, either in 5th or 4th no matter what I did.. the lights would cycle through but when you released the throttle it wouldn't engage and then start the lights cycling all over again as if you hit a huge bump that disengaged it.. I have a very deep suspicious feeling that this started due to something the Yammy shop forgot to hook up or broke or pooched somehow. I KNOW it worked before going into the shop but stopped working after I got it back from the shop, but it was a few weeks afterward before I actually tried to use it.. I'll pulling the tank off the bike this week to change plugs, so now is the opportune time to have a look to see if anything is amiss.. Can't ride the bike yet, still winter up here.. but if there is something I can check now, I would certainly appreciate any help forthcoming.. I don't know what to look for at this point.. I'm gonna NEED my Cruise Control for the big trip in May lol Thanks again M8
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OK, guys.....tell me if there's one already for sale out there (I want two of them if there is)......or count me in on the royalties if YOU'RE the first person who invents it using MY idea: What is "IT".........a gizmo to attach to my Venture AND my wife's V-Star that CANCELS our signal lights the SECOND we turn the corner and bring our bikes to the upright position. Not 10 seconds after......not 5 seconds after.........not 2 seconds after.....IMMEDIATELY AFTER. Is there any reason you can think of why our signal lights STAY ON for up to half a block (or more!) after we've made the turn we just made?? After all, it's the signalling of our INTENTION to turn that's the important thing.......not putting on a big show AFTERWARD..... "HEY, did you see me turn back there!?! Look, my signal's still on, to prove I did it!" If you're like me (God help you, first of all....), you've probably noticed when group riding, or even just riding behind your buddy or your honey, that the person ahead often appears as though they may actually be about to make a second turn in the same direction as the one they just made. Even scarier, is the fact that the car coming out of the street or driveway on the opposite side from the signal light thinks the bike is turning too......and that it's SAFE TO PULL OUT!! Wrong.........SCREEEEEEECH........BANG!!! What ever possessed Japanese engineers (haven't checked on BMW's or Ducati's to see if German and Italian engineers are likewise afflicted) to put a so-called SELF CANCELLING device into our signal lights that sends MISLEADINGLY EXTENDED "signals" and could potentially CAUSE more accidents than it PREVENTS? Cars don't do it! They cancel the second the wheel straightens out. So, what's with bikes? Get with it, Japan!!! (Remember, all you up and coming MacGyvers out there.......this post is date-stamped....you saw it here first.......and I want my royalties in small, unmarked bills sent to my villa in Majorca, please!)
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I'm getting ready to add tail, brake, and turn signals to my Voyager kit. I have the lights (6" oval surface mount LED lights from Custom Dynamics...), and I can get a trailer harness and associated stuff locally. What I need to know is were are the connectors for the rear lights (tail, brake, and turn)? I know the rear turn signals have connectors, I saw a set on evil bay.... What I'd like to do is make up some y adapters so I don't have to butcher the stock harness (I'm kinda funny that way.....). Thanks! Y'All ride safe... -
how does one get behind the fairing to do some wireing ..I want to hook up some lights and use the lighter to do it. Whistler
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I have the bugs worked out with the lights and trailer and this is what I am towing.
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Hi all! I have a really dumb question and I know it touches on my post yesterday about relays and driving lights but at the same time it is separate. Forum monitor please forgive me. I bought a relay and all of the parts I need to put a relay in. I printed a couple of different posts that had schematics and instructions. I purchased a simply on off push button type switch that is more robust than the one that comes with the Yamaha light kit. I have a couple of questions; (1) what is the difference between a simple switch that has two connect points and one that has three? Also I want to hook my lights up so they are on all the time whether I am using low or high beam. The official Yamaha instructions says" On all the time: Splice red power lead to red w/Yellow stripe lead (in natural nylon multi connector) My assumption is that what they are referring to is what the instruction I have read call "Switched Power" and that one wire goes from here to one terminal on the switch and one wire goes from terminal 86 of the relay on the coil side to the other connect point on the switch. Sorry, schematics confuse me. My apologies for the dumb question. Any help is appreciated Chris in Red Deer -
Hi guys, one last attempt with a new load equalizer to slow my signal flash rate. In the rear of the bike I have normal LED cluster but in the front I have the Custom Dynamics Moon Shinez white signal lights which is most likely confusing the system from accepting the normal load equalizer practice of placement. I recently picked up the Custom Dynamics Street Magic Metric equalizer unit but after discussing it with another member, it would appear we have the same unit but there lies some confusion about the wires and seemingly different instructions for the same product. The instructions I have says to hook the RED wire (which has a fuse holder and battery connector lug) to the battery... The BLACK wire to a suitable ground and then the BROWN and the PURPLE each to the right and left rear signal wire. (They state the REAR signal wires and it's supposed to work to quell the speed on front and rear LED signal lights?) The other member has his connected to the signal flash relay located under the right side cover (the square looking black relay) and says his actually does work, slowing down the flash rate properly... but his instructions and unit have different colours. The relay connector plug has 5 wires to it laid out as such: BLACK YELLOW WHITE with white stripe BROWN BLANK BROWN with red stripe with white stripe In order to make this unit work, and attached to the wires on the connector, which wire does what on the connector? What's the best way to find the correct wires as per instructions? Either I've been working at this too long and now totally confused or I'm just too jittery to experiment and blow up the bike..! If you know for sure (no wild guesses, please), drop me a line and fill me in.. It's totally possible that the Shinez front signal lights are indeed impossible to make work with a load equalizer but I dunno.. These lights stay ON bright and when signalling, they simple switch off... then on, then off.. instead of the typical dim running lights blinking brighter.. perhaps these are impossible to slow down? Anyway.. late night, time for bed.. hopefully someone will have the solution.. Thanks in advance. Cheers
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Hi there i live in the UK . Just Bought a 2001 Venture with 19000miles on the clock and love it. But just got a few questions. Hope someone can help. Firstly the whine which i know alot of these bikes have? Is there an oil of choice or additive that helps ? The whine isnt terrible but its a shame to wear a full face helmet on one of these . Secondly sometimes when starting just on the anitial press of the button, theres a knock just as it ingages ? is this anything to worry about . Thirdly The audio all lights up searchs for radio stations etc . all seems to work apart from theres no sound , ive removed the fairing and checked connections doesnt make any difference . Any ideas ? Many Thanks in advance Edge.
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So me and the misses are coming home at dusk and I notice my running lights are not on....Headlight, Tail and Running lights...Brake and Turn are OK... A couple of week ago I wired for a trailer behind the tail light....SOOOOOOOO] Pulled into driveway....Checked the 15amp fuse and it was gone....replaced and all is well...Running lights work again....Got on the beast to move it into the garage and I have to run up on a slightly elevated concrete edge....When I bounced over it..OUT GOES THE RUNNING lights again...by this time its. dark... My though is that my connection in the taillight must have worked loose and it is shorting our....I'll check tomorrow PM after I get home from work. Question..Does this make "electrical guru" sense? Note: Leaving on first long distance trip the first of Sept and HOPE this is all it is.... Long Tall Lynchburg, VA
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I am trying to figure out the wire size for the rear lights.... I think they are 16 gauge..... Just want to make sure I get the correct fittings for tying in the Hoppy isolator Thanks, Robert C. -
For almost a year my battery goes down after a couple of days of not riding. I have added running lights, led tail lights, air horn, auxilary plug in and maybe a couple more items over time. I don't know whats drawing the battery down and an electrician I ain't. How can I test to see what is causing this problem?
