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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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Noticed a funny odor coming from my bike...I discovered fuel leaking from the over flow tube from the right rear carb... Anybody have any experience dealing with this type of problem? (and how to fix) Thanks -
OK Someone has had to have had this problem....... The Bike runs great if it starts --- That is the problem --- 2006 RSTD 40,000 miles Normal operation ---- I turn the key The Fuel Pump makes at tick about 3 seconds I pull the choke Bike starts I let it warm up while I get my gear on Off I go Problem ---- Let the Bike sit for a week or so I have the battery tender on Battery checks out fine I turn the key plenty of power The Fuel Pump is silent I pull the choke Bike starts --- Barely an idle -- put put put -- I can not give it any throttle or push the choke or it stalls It puts until it I assume it runs the carbs dry then stalls It can take an hour or so until I can get it to run last time this happened I left it alone I had the shop come and pick it up I got on it in the garage turned the key (Habit) Tic Tic Tic the bike started up as soon as he unloaded at the shop and he cant find anything wrong with it I told him keep it and call me in 2 weeks when it wont start What is it that determines if there is pressure in the carbs When I turn the key what happens next ?????? 5 times this has happened I can recreate the problem just let the Bike sit for a week or so. I have put close to 4,000 miles on it this summer as long as I don't let it sit no problem at all
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:icon_smile_questionDo you turn off the fuel petcock on your bike when you are not riding? I got accustomed to not worrying about this with the 1st gen but see the manual says to turn it off when the bike is stopped. Is there a danger of fuel flowing down thru the carbs and into the cylinders and to the crankcase? Thanks! Don
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I know the fuel sender unit is a common problem and I have read through many of the threads that discuss it but I have yet to see this particular question answered. I also read through the service manual and owner's manual and I did not see anything that discussed that particular behavior (although it is likely that I missed it somewhere)... Does your low fuel light come on with the check engine light when you turn the key to the ON position (then go off after the 2 seconds or whatever it is)? I have seen my low fuel light come on and the trip meter switch to the "F trip" meter but it has been a while since I have seen that. Since the last time I have seen it I have had to switch to reserve with no light or f trip meter - but it is inconclusive whether the thing works or not. If it is supposed to come on when the key is turned to the ON position, then I know there is a problem with my unit. EDIT: Pg 8-37 of the owner's manual goes through the diagnostic and it does not say at any point, turn the key ON and see if the dumb thing lights up, so I am inclined to think that it doesn't, but it would be helpful if someone could tell me for sure. Thanks.
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I used to ride an 03 VTX 1300 and it had a fuel pump, but on it people (myself included) would just remove it and replace the petcock to a style with no fuel pump (shut off diaphram in back) and bike ran fine because gravity would push gas to carb bowls anyways, hence less parts to break down while on the road. Has anyone ever done this on the RSV? It seems doable to me as the tank is above the carbs, cannot think of a reason it would not work, but sometimes I just cannot think.
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Ok guys: All of you that are running Bubs; were you checking your fuel mileage before you installed the Bubs, and have you checked the mileage after installing the Bubs? If so; was it worse or better? Also where did you find the best price? Thanks.
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OK, the numbers are in - Goose 1, Magic plugs 0! Executive Summary: In a recent thread the subject of NGK Iridium plugs generated several comments from some members claiming an improvement in either performance or fuel economy attributed specifically to these "Magic" plugs. I maintained that there is absolutely no way any magic plug could ever improve anything over standard plugs except longevity (they do not erode the electrodes as fast). Kross Kountry and I devised and executed a quasi-scientific test designed to effectively prove or disprove the idea that magic plugs could improve fuel economy. This test was performed by two similar bikes riding the same routes and speeds together for several tanks of gas with standard plugs in both, then several more tanks of gas with magic plugs in the test bike, while carefully comparing the amount of gas each bike took at each fill. The exact miles per gallon for either bike are completely irrelevant in this test, as the only significant issue is to determine if the ratio of fuel used by Bike A to Bike B changed after the magic plugs were installed. At the end of 732 miles, the fuel used by the test bike was effectively unchanged, "proving" that magic plugs have NO value in improving fuel economy. The Results: By running two similar bikes together through several tanks of fuel, we were able to remove most of the normal variables (such as weather, terrain, speed, riding styles, quality of fuel, etc.) that make normal measurement of miles per gallon on a motorcycle fairly useless. Since our tanks are so small, the variables effectively invalidate every single calculation, but in this test they can mostly be ignored because they should have affected BOTH bikes the same way. And, again, we were not actually concerned by the MPG calculations, just the ratio of fuel used in Bike A to Bike B. There are a few significant variables that remained, and I will detail these in the gory details below. Bike A was the control bike with standard plugs. This was my 2005 RSV with over 70,000 miles on it and no special preparation. I consider the bike in reasonably good tune, and the plugs were changed a bit over 2,000 miles ago. Bike B was the test bike. This was Kross Kountry's 2008 RSV with about 8,000 miles on it. Prior to starting the test we reset the float levels correctly and set the fuel mixture screws. All indications were that the bike was running excellently throughout the test. We began the test by installing new standard plugs in the test bike, then riding together for three tanks of gas over a variety of roads for a total of 412 miles. For the first tank, 150 miles, the ratio of fuel used A:B was 1.06:1, meaning that for each gallon of fuel used by the test bike, the control bike used 1.06 gallons. Tank 2 was 148 miles, and the ratio was 1.11:1. The third tank was just 114 miles with a ratio of 1.10:1. For the entire 412 miles with standard plugs in both bikes, the ratio of fuel used by Bike A to Bike B was 1.09:1. At the end of day 1 we switched the test bike to new NGK Iridium plugs (the "Magic" plugs). For this test we ran only two tanks of gas for a total of 320 miles. Tank 1 was 159 miles with a ratio of 1.09.1. Tank 2 was 161 miles with a ratio of 1.05:1, for a total average ratio of fuel used by Bike A to Bike B of 1.07:1, actually WORSE than with standard plugs! But read the gory details below to find out why I do NOT consider that significant. In effect, I believe that there was absolutely NO difference in the fuel used by the test bike with either plugs. In addition, Kross Kountry is a professional driver, and he feels he is probably more in tune to the "feel" of a vehicle than the average rider might be. He stated that he was not able to detect even the slightest hint of difference in the way the bike ran after we installed the Magic plugs. All The Gory Details: One of the variables we were not able to completely remove was filling the bike to the exact same level each time. We did, however try to minimize this by carefully using the ignition key to measure the fuel level; however, we did not try to check each other. In one case, I believe the slab at the pump was sloped, and I pulled in facing up hill, while he pulled in to the other side of the pump facing down hill. This was the first tank with the magic plugs. The slope was not real evident, so I ignored it at the time, but Tracy commented later that he wondered if he got a true fill since his bike came down off the "Full" mark sooner than before. This seems to have been verified by the lower than normal ratio at the second tank fill, where his bike needed more gas to completely replace the fuel that had not been added on the previous fill; the two tanks together should have removed that variable. In addition, after I shut the pump off for that final fill and re-checked my key measurement, it seemed as if I might have been just a tad too low, but it was too late to add more. I'll readily admit that only doing this comparison for two or three tanks is still not enough to average out all the variations we might have had in the exact amount of fuel added, but it is all we had time for! Another variable that I introduced without thinking ahead of time was the weight on the bike. Most of the baseline test with standard plugs in both bikes was run with a passenger on my bike, but all of the second day was run solo. On the first day, about a third of the first tank was run solo, which would account for the closer ratio of fuel used than we got on the next two tanks. This, along with the issue above concerning the exact fill amounts, is why I do not believe the test bike actually used more gas with the magic plugs than it did with standard plugs - the reasonable fact is that my bike simply used slightly less fuel when riding solo than it did two-up. But if someone wants to claim this completely invalidates the test, well, I'd be hard pressed to argue. The odometers on both bikes were consistently very close, with Bike B showing approximately 1 mile less over 150 miles. For all of the MPG calculations below, I have used the numbers from my bike, removing that small variable. Here are all the exact numbers related to each tank of fuel during the test: Day 1, tank 1 - 1/2 city riding, 1/2 SMALL secondary roads at speeds around 50 mph. Bike A took 3.873 gallons and got 38.73 mpg. Bike B: 3.647 gallons, 41.13 mpg. Ratio 1.06:1 Day 1, tank 2 - all riding was back roads, but somewhat larger and straighter than above. Roughly 1/2 the riding was under 70 mph, and 1/2 between 70 and 75 mph (as reported by GPS). Bike A took 4.249 gallons, 34.83 mpg. Bike B: 3.824 gallons, 38.70 mpg. Ratio 1.11:1 Day 1, tank 3 - virtually all was straight highway or freeway at 70 - 75 mph. Bike A took 3.418 gallons, 33.35 mpg. Bike B: 3.103 gallons, 36.74 mpg. Ratio 1.10:1 Day 2, tank 1 - open roads, 1/2 under 70 mph, 1/2 over 70 mph. Bike A took 4.554 gallons, 34.91 mpg. Bike B: 4.187 gallons, 36.74 mpg. Ratio 1.09:1 Day 2, tank 2 - open roads with two thirds over 70 mph and running the Talimena parkway at the end. Bike A took 4.465 gallons, 34.91 mpg. Bike B: 4.251, 37.873 mpg. Ratio 1.05:1 That's it - hopefully all my math and typing is correct! Goose
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Ok... so I've had this problem a few times since getting the bike: I'll be riding and everything seems fine, and the engine simply stops running. Acts like it's out of gas. it's happened 3 or 4 times- and it seems like turning the fuel petcock back and forth is solving the issue: Here's the question- I think it may be simply me not understanding how the reserve/main tank work together. 1. Does the fuel guage show the total gas or just the main tank? THe other day it cut off with a bar left on the guage. Switched it to reserve and back again a couple times... and it seemed to work again. 2- if someone could explain the relationship between the 2 fuel tanks, the petcock and the gas gauge, I think I would be able to troubleshoot better. rs (I know I'm probably spelling petcock wrong... I mean the tank chooser switchy thing- That' a technical description...)
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My 2006 Midnight Venture just turned over 50,000 miles on this recent road trip and I experienced the BEST gas mileage ever on a tank of gas!! wow.. I road for close to 150 miles before pulling over for fuel at a regular fuel stop and pumped in 12 litres of fuel.. 56.8 MPG Imperial and 47.3 MPG US 70 mph in 5th with all tail winds made a huge diff.. Big beautiful day, 5 hours of traveling to do and I just decided to roll softly.. and was surprised at the mileage.. albeit boring After that fuel stop I slammed it in 4th and rolled with the fast traffic to get home the rest of way hehe.. amazing.. the fuel mileage was significantly worse on the last leg
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Looking for the chrome fuel pump cover for my 92 Virago 1100. So, if anyone has one for sale or has a lead on one, sure would appreciate it.
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I was having a problem with keeping the bike running so I took it to the shop. They said they took the carbs off and that they were gummed up. Bike is an 07 with 37K. I did a 6000 mile ride out to Sturgis and back and didn't have any problems until the last day coming home. That morning it didn't want to stay running. I got it running and rode it back home with no more problems. The bike sat for maybe 4 days and I went to go ride and could not get the darn bike to stay running. I pulled the choke out and it would run full choke for a min or two and then cut off. I let it sit for a few hours and then went back out and pulled the choke and got the bike to run high ideal then pushed the choke in and it was running fine. Now the bike has sat for maybe 2 or 3 days and it is doing the same things. I can not keep the bike running with full choke or without choke. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be causeing this. The bike does have K&N filters been on for over a year now, road king pipes been on since 700 miles, AIS has been plugged then unplugged. I have replaced the fuel filter right before the cards got cleaned. I checked the fuel pump it is still pulling a sucktion. All fuel lines are conected and in good condition. I replaced the spark pulgs right before the cards got cleaned. I personal don't know what else could be the issue other than the cards wont tuned correct and the jets are back and not shemmed correct. I am by no means a mechanice but I do know how to do many things by reading our tech forums and the manuals. If anyone can help please speak up. Thanks so much in Advance. Robert 'TheKid'
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I came across this information in the April, 2009, issue of Motorcycle Consumer News. I am posting this response in it entirety because I thought it would be useful for just about anyone fighting problems getting a smoothly running carbureted bike. The answer that follows was in response to a question from someone who had several older (carbureted) bikes that do more sitting than riding, and he was having problems with carburetor fouling: Answer (transcribed in full): "[G]asoline deterioration is indeed a problem, one that has gotten much worse than it once was over the last few years. The most recent fuel reformulation has now resulted in fuel going stale in just a few weeks. As I understand it, the problem is fuel separation. The oxygenating compounds being used in gasoline are the primary culprits and not the alcohol (ethanol or methanol). The oxygenates and octane enhancers either separate or evaporate quickly, leaving the gummy, jet blocking and float sticking residue behind in just a few weeks' time. Traditional fuel stabilizers (as you have experienced) do not work well (if at all) with the current oxygenated fuels. Until a new fuel stabilizer is produced that deals with this new fuel formulation, I do not have a good solution for prevention beyond riding as often as you can and topping off the fuel at every opportunity. I do have a few suggestions for folks dealing with clogged carbs. If the bike has been sitting, drain the fuel from the float bowls prior to starting. This will help prevent sucking the gunk into the jets. If the jets are clogged or restricted, Yamaha Carb Dip and Cleaner (ACC-CARBC-LE-NR) can be dispensed into the carbs through the fuel line. Crank the engine to draw the cleaner into the jets, then let it sit for several hours and, afterward, drain and refill with fresh fuel. This process will work if the carbs aren't too badly clogged. You can repeat the process, allowing the cleaner more time in the carbs or disassemble the carbs for direct cleaning. (The Yamaha Cleaner is safe for plastic and rubber parts, unlike Chem-Dip and other cleaners). K&L Supply Co. offers a Carb Jet Wire Cleaning tool (35-3498) available online and through most bike shops. The tool helps clear clogged jets, especially non-removable styles found in your Amal and many older Keihin carbs." Background: The information was in response to a question in the Downtime Files section of the magazine. The masthead identifies the author as Matthew Wiley, an "AMI Certified mechanic. Since 1985 I’ve specializing in touring bikes, worked as tech, managed various dealerships in southwest Ohio from ’85 to 2000. Served as an instructor and technical trainer for MMI (Motorcycle Mechanics Institute) from 2000–2005, and since 2005 I’ve done Internet sales, motorcycle service, technical writing & powersports business consulting. In 2007, I switched to Operations Manager for a racing suspension company and served as AHRMA Vintage Road Race Support." I personally know nothing more about Matthew Whiley than that, but I have a huge respect for the quality of information published in Motorcycle Consumer News. Goose
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I got home from our long trip to PA where I experienced a weird shut down which turned out to be a weird fuel pump issue. I was emailing a friend about it and he details to me how his bike is shutting down on the side of the road but restarting again after a few minutes. Strangely enough, I asked him if his signal lights are flashing fast to which he replied he 'thought' they had but they are not consistent. He's pretty sure they flashed rather fast when he was pulling over onto the shoulder when the bike conked out. I sent him the info of what happened to mine so he can see about getting his fuel pump checked out. I'm tempted to call the Yamaha tech reps to find out if these fast flashing signals are a trouble shooting diagnostics.. Hmmm I'm happy to report that after the fuel pump was replaced on my bike, it's been awesome and working so well that we even climbed Mount Washington on the way home.. Just had to do it because it was there.. (note: it's a much easier climb up now as they paved the last part up to the summit now.. there is only a short dirt section left.. but it's so easy to climb now.. ) -
Does anybody know what the type number was for the automotive fuel fiilter that fits a FirstGen? I did a search on this site, but nothing popped up. Frank -
Well, I got the carbs put back together and re-installed on the bike (my first time). After I got the bike put back together, I decided to take her for a spin and she ran like a dream:usa:. She did have a hard time idling though. When I got back from around the block, I seen a puddle of fuel on the ground:yikes:. Come to find out, I had accidently left the #1 carb drain open. Easy fix....until I took closer look, I noticed that the drain line was not the only thing leaking fuel. Appearently all 4 carbs were leaking fuel and I know that I put the covers back on tight when I re-assembled them:soapbox:. I guess my question is.....how often do you have to replace the O-ring that seals the cover to the carb?
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My wife and I decided to go for a ride downtown in Toronto last Friday night. It was a warm and muggy night. My bike had been sitting in the garage all day. I pulled out the choke and pushed the start button. It didn't want to start right away but fired up after a second push on the button. I reduced the choke as soon as it started and pushed it off entirely within a minute and a half. Off we rode. Me on my 06 RSTD and my wife on her Suzuki C50. Everything seemed fine until we got downtown near the lake and my bike started missing on one cylinder at idle (a popping sound on the right side that my wife said she could hear as she sat ten feet behind me on her bike) and baby backfires on deceleration. I was also noticing the smell of gas. We turned around and headed for home. I wound it up in first and second a couple of times as I pulled away from traffic lights and it purred like a kitten each time. After that the problem was gone. No missing, no backfiring, and no gas smell. The next morning I noticed fuel spots down the length of my driveway and a larger spot where I had stopped briefly before we headed out onto the street. I hopped in my truck and headed to NAPA to pick up a can of Sea Foam. I poured about half a can of Sea Foam into the nearly full fuel tank and have put a couple of hundred more kilometers under the wheels during the last two days with no further signs of trouble. I pulled the right rear spark plug and it appeared to be clean and dry. Didn't feel like pulling the fuel tank to check the front one! Has anybody else experienced this problem? I don't want to find myself in this position during our upcoming bike holiday.
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I finally gother back on the road and now she is loading up. If I get below 2000 RPMs, then it iwll load up and die. Does anyone have any ideas? I have already restricted the fuel flow from the petcock. I put the petcock half on/half off. It does not seem to help.
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Does anyone have the single shift lever? I have the stock toe/heel lever but never use the heel end. I caught my rain pants on the heel end the other day and almost dumped. If anyone has a single and wants to change back to the toe/heel, I would be interested in a trade. Otherwise I will probably just cut off the heel end. BTW, this is for a 07 RSV. Also would be interested in a fuel cap cover and a cover for the rear of the fuel tank.
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I have a 99 2nd generation and about a month ago I was riding in some of the hills of West Va and it almost felt like the power was not up to par. Then I convinced myself, yep it's fine. Then I noticed one other time that going up a hill it just seemed down on power since I had to roll the throttle all the way up and it was slowly picking speed. I'm thinking, was the hill steeper than I thought. Once again I convinced myself after a few miles all was good. Mileage is still the same so no change there. Last week I ran it up to about 95 on the interstate with no problems. Yesterday the wife and I went for a ride about a 130 miles in the ride I noticed it felt like it was running out of gas and it was about due so I switched to reserve. Stop at the next exit and as I was taking off from the stop sign it felt like there was not enough fuel going to the carb's. Like I was trying to take off in second. I fueled up and switched back to normal. As we got back on the interstate I noticed it did not have the power that it should. No doubt about it this time. It was not missing and appeared and felt like all cylinders were firing. Up and over a mountain on the interstate in slowed down to about 55 mph and that's all she would do. On that mountain I would normally be at 70 or better going over the top with more throttle. I headed back to the house and figured when I got home, first thing to try was see how much gas was coming through the line and see if the fuel pump was running. For the 100 or so miles home the bike ran fine just did not have the power. It did backfire through the exhaust as I slowed down at several stop signs and I was figuring it was not getting the proper fuel. About 5 miles before the house my wife said it's running better isn't it. Yep, sure is. Get home and all is good. Ran it through the gears and no problems. Not sure where to start since no lights or anything. Now the bike is fine until it happens again. Question, has anyone had this happen before? If the pump was to quit working any idea what systoms you would get? Would it quit all together or would gravity give enough fuel to make it run and act like low power. As usual, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Spotsy
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Just starting this thread - I'll add more as I find it . . . If you are aware of any other alternatives to expensive factory parts, especially if you have used one yourself and had satisfactory results, please message one of the moderators to have the information added here. Where a particular part has a related Tech Library article, that link is the last one. Clutch - More of an upgrade than just a replacement, PCW Racing sells a stronger spring and an upgrade kit at very reasonable prices. Their link is below, but at last check they didn't have on-line ordering. Another option (and more expensive) is the Barnett pressure plate. Most slipping clutches on the 2nd Gens can be completely fixed with just the stronger springs - no need to replace the friction or steel plates. http://www.pcwracing.net/ - call them at 518-346-7203 and tell them you want the spring upgrade kit for a Royal Star Venture http://www.barnettclutches.com/ Clutch Upgrade - VentureRider.Org Coils - really should be a number of alternatives here, but I do not have any details. Fuel Pump - Most external low pressure/low volume fuel pumps should work - stock pump has a 3 PSI rating and costs over $200. Look for a solid state pump sold for old VWs or jeeps. Here are a couple of links for replacement pumps under $50: Autozone 4-7 PSI NOTE: since this pump is double the pressure of the stock pump, I would not use it unless I could not find any other. Autozone 2-3 1/2 PSI JCW 1 1/2-4 PSI JCW 1 1/2-3 1/2 PSI http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/42S/10002/-1 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php Parts 40105 and 40171 https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_6101051_0067330545&An=0 General note on available pumps - most (probably all) of these pumps are Facet brand fuel pumps, and the correct Facet part number is 42S (also goes by 40105). Facet has recently replaced their old cube pumps with new Posi-Flo pumps, and the correct part number for the Posi-Flo is 04S (also goes by 60104). Either part number may be preceded by "PRO" or "FEP". Also note that the 40171 pump is the ONLY one that has both a check valve and positive shutoff, so it would be the best choice for use on a motorcycle that does not have an automatic fuel shutoff when the engine is off (such as ours). All of the other pumps allow fuel to flow even when the power is off, so a leaking float valve could lead to engine damage if the petcock is left on. Fuel filter - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MGD0/33011.oap?pt=N1219&ppt=C0262 - You need one with at least a 5/16" connection. Any universal filter will work if you just want to relocate it, but this one will actually fit perfectly in place of the original (and despite what you may have heard, it is NOT that difficult to change! Oil filter - There are lots of filters available; instead of trying to list them all, here is a link to a cross reference (we use Type 5 - the filters are at the bottom), along with several other links for information on filter quality: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml Paint - Not many options here other than ColorRite (www.colorrite.com), or have it matched by a professional paint shop. I strongly recommend the paint shop and that you avoid ColorRite (see my product report here:http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36321&highlight=paint) Rear Shock - The only alternative is from Works Performance - costs more than stock, but it is rebuildable, where the stock one is just trash when it goes out. One source for the Works Performance shock is: www.buckeyeperformance.com Thermostat - Should be an automotive cross reference, but we do not have one confirmed yet. Front Turn Signal bulbs - Starting in 2005 Yamahaha went to weird 3-prong bulbs - but no need to waste your money on them. Just buy a standard 1157 and remove the lower pin! The remaining high pin is indexed correctly to install the bulb with the correct filament connections (low for running light, bright for turn), and it will stay in place forever. The pin is often easily removed by simply prying on it with a pcket knife, or use a file, or simply rub it on the cement curb. Valve shims - Any 25mm shims should work. Here is a link to a Sudco shim kit that lists lots of different bikes that use the same shims: http://www.sudco.com/25valveshims.html Valve Adjustment - VentureRider.Org Valve shim tool - 35-3462 .... $38 from http://www.justatv.com/pages/valve_shim_tools/valve_shim_tools.htm Wheel Bearings - Check the existing bearing - it will probably have a standard number on it that any bearing shop can cross. Be sure to buy only name brand bearings, such as SKF, Timken, Federal Mogul or NTN and get sealed bearings if that is what came out. You can save a couple of more bucks by getting bulk, un-boxed cheap Chinese bearings, but you won't like how fast they die! Front - 6004 (unverified), 2 each Rear -
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I seem to be noticing a rich running issue recently. It appears to me it is at idle conditions. Fuel mileage seems ok...similar to what i always get. Around 40 mpg. At idle i notice a strong fuel/rich mixture smell...if it idles for any length of time....some 'smoke' from right pipe (fuel?)...accompanied by strong fuel/rich mixture odour. I pulled and checked plugs. Right front cyl. seems to 'foul' badly...wet with fuel. If i pull vacuum barb cap on that cyl...notice some raw fuel...but no external fuel leakage otherwise. Right rear plug looks somewhat rich too.... but better than front cyl plug. Left side plugs look perfect. If i try to adjust mixture.... left side carbs will lean out and stall out engine...right side makes very little difference as screws are adjusted. Bike runs decent starts well...no issues otherwise. Bike hasn't been sitting. Have changed plugs several times. Brand new set right now. Have run seafoam in the past...late last year....just as a 'maintenance' thing. Just changed diaphragms(only because of age...was running ok)...seems problem surfaced or more noticeable then...or coincidental??? 3 of 4 diaphragms had a small pinhole each. Synched carbs several times. Any thoughts/suggestions?
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Ok so now everything is back to normal.. (I'm posting this in case someone out there has the same rare occurrance as I had.. and that this may help them in the future.. ) Initial problem was that I ran out of fuel while still carrying the reserve amount.. This happened twice in a 2 week period. Petcock set to ON and the bike stuttered with 2 fuel bars showing.. switched to RES on the petcock and the bike died.. poof. When subsequently fueling up, it's discovered that the bike still had a reserve amount of fuel.. It would not feed from the RES position on the petcock (yes, it was indeed in correct position as per etc) There was no F on the ODO nor was there the amber low fuel warning light.. just the stutter of the engine indicating a low fuel issue but the bike would not feed from the reserve fuel in the tank when the petcock was on RES. Testing at home showed that the fuel would drain from the petcock from the ON position and when the flow stopped, it would indeed resume when petcock set to RES position, just as it should.. but didn't when I ran out of fuel twice on the road.. So this problem did not make sense. When the tank was drained from the petcock, the F on the ODO nor the amber fuel light came on.. huh. Ok something is not working. A few calls to service dept yielded such things as witchcraft and pulling stumps out with a wet herring.. No idea what they were talking about.. I doubt they knew either. What caused the problem? Well guesses are that sludge might have blocked the RES port on the petcock, preventing the fuel from flowing to the engine. But when I pulled the petcock off the tank, the standpipes on the petcocks were clean as a whistle and the inside of the tank showed no signs of dirt or sludge.. So ok, the petcock is working as advertised up to this point. The VENT tube at the top of the tank is cleared and passing air so that's not blocked causing a vacuum. The Fuel meter on the dashboard indicates proper fuel levels and shows it full and decreasing as you put miles on the bike.. So the float is working.. I changed the fuel filter on spec. On examining the fuel filter, it was as it should be after a year of use.. nothing dramatic or un-normal about it.. I had disconnected the battery at this time as I had other electrical work to fix on the stereo under the main fairing.. I pulled the tank off the bike to change the spark plugs and at that time, 'swished' the tank with clean fuel and drained it.. upside down and sideways, listening to hear anything bopping around loose in there but all was good. When the bike was put back together again, with 10 litres of fuel added to the tank, and ignition turned on, the fuel pump could be heard ticking away filling up the bowls and lines and the bike's engine fired up as it should.. Fuel levels were showing on the gauge and the bike was put away for the evening. This morning, with a jerry can strapped to the back seat of the bike, I set off to test if I would get proper function of the fuel system or a repeat of the last time. And at two bars showing on the fuel gauge, the F on the ODO showed up and 3 or 4 miles later the low fuel amber light came on, just as it was supposed to. And I added just over 16 litres of fuel into the tank, JUST as it should.. so everything is back to normal.. A subsequent fuel run gave me the same results.. seems I can now rely again on the low fuel indicating system.. But the big question is what the heck happened to cause the problem in the first place?! I basically ran out of fuel as I was unable to feed from the reserve fuel in the tank.. Here's what I'm guessing and let me know if any of this makes sense or not.. (A) there was sludge in the tank but it got 'swished' out and now all is good.. (B) the fuel filter was probably actually dirtier than I had thought and replacing it fixed the problem.. © or more interestingly, perhaps the bike's fuel management computer pooped out a while back and was reset when I disconnected the battery.. In other words, a set condition was met when the fuel float got down to a certain level, failing to activate the pump or signaling the system that the bike is actually dry and not having any reserve fuel.. or something like that.. The reason I mention © is that the stereo system on the bike was giving me probs all spring long where as the bars had to be turned to the right in order to make any channel changes, though the volume works all the time.. I pulled the fairing to find the cable going from the hand controller on the left bar was trapped under a bundle around the steering neck and when the bars were to the left, applied a weird pressure on the cable causing it to not work.. go figure.. Once I released that cable to the top of the bundle, the control unit works perfectly.. ... And also to mention that on a recent road trip, the Cruise Control would sometimes deactivate when hitting a large bump.. Perhaps there was something electrical causing all this BS in the first place and all I needed to do was reset 'something' by disconnecting the battery?! Anyway.. if anyone ever finds themselves in this kind of situation, drop me a line.. I've been through it.. Hopefully I might be able to save you some time in trouble shooting. Thanks to all who submitted helpful suggestions.. Cheers
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I'm new to the Yamaha world. I'm looking for someone to suggest a honest dealer that has a good service teck for the Royal Star Tour Deluxe. I having a problem with the Cruise control & fuel gauge not working. Thanks for any Suggestions, Roundman -
:starz:I had the most bizzard thing happen on the weekend. I came home after teaching a motorcycle crse and decided I would change my oil/filter before my trip to Toronto this week. No problem, done it before all was good......until.....I ran engine to circulate the new oil for about a minute....topped it off and fired it up again just to double check.......it ran for about a minute - rpm dropped - it chugged then died. Every attempt to restart that bike failed.:puzzled: I began my troubleshooting.......I figured with all the attempts to start the thing (maybe I flooded it - although I couldn't smell fuel) I would start by pulling one of the plugs to see if it was wet.......nope = dry. There's plenty of gas in the tank......lets go to the fuel filter/pump area.....fuel doesn't appear to be moving.....so.... There are two leads that go into the pump (checked the manual which says there should be x number of volts and alas there are none). Started pulling connectors cleaning them up, tore the entire fairing off to get at the relay etc, etc etc. I had also removed the fuel filter and blew it out, blew fuel through the pump to the carbs. I had done everything that the manual mentioned except diagnostics for the "ignitor unit" which I didn't know what it was or where it is located. Once I had blown fuel into the bowls it fired right up. Since this little episode I've ridden about 150-200 km's with no further problem. I spoke with a mechanic who said that obviously I fixed the problem but my big concern is that I don't have the foggiest idea what I did. He also mentioned that electrics either work or they don't and the problem was probably one of the connectors that I pulled apart and cleaned. Folks.....I put it to the floor.....should I be concerned taking her on a road Wed????
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Probably an old thread but for a part that requires frequent replacement (owners manual) This is incredible. I have spent over an hour and am only more frustrated. I can see it ,I can barely get two fingers on the top and wiggle it bit --what ever is holding the boot (which I can't see, won't budge and I am afraid to muscle it. There was another black rubber clip above it which O removed from a bright metal clip but that did not help and now I can't get a hold of that to put it back on. All three access panels are off// fuel pump is unbolted and slack -battery is out What the heck gives-- I have not removed the coolant contanier yet--and am now looking for a cutting torch. This is nuts especially since all wrenching to get to it was so easy. I only have the (just enough info to get ya in trouble) owners manual. The doctor has told me the stitches in my hand can come out in 6 weeks but the bump on my forehead from hitting my head against the wall may take longer. What am I doing wrong? Please help Thanks in advance--Ed--2000 venture salsa red:think:
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