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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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I have been trying to find answers all over the net and cannot seem to find any. Is it possible to change the gear ration on a second gen RSV? I live out in Kansas and all I have is flat interstate and I feel the RSV is revving way too high at 80. It feels like it has more than enough power to spare at lower rpm. I know being a shaft drive it will be infinitely harder to change than a belt would, but I would be interested to know if anyone has done this/tried this/or thinks its impossible. Thanks
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The final drive seal (Part 22 in this photo http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx ) is leaking. If anyone has changed this seal, I have a question. Does this seal remove/install from the outside, or do you have to remove part 19 and install it from the inside? Thanks in advance for any advice. Ronnie King EDIT: Sorry, the link will not take you directly to the correct page. I have a 1999 second gen XVZ1300, and the correct page is the one for the driveshaft.
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As I mentioned before, I have been been laid off from my regular job since December. Now, don't get me wrong, I have enjoyed the time off and have gotten a bunch of motorcycle related projects completed on both my 86'Vr and 87'VRs as well as worked on quite a few other bikes. After more than 38 years as a Machinist I am happy to say that I still enjoy doing machine work, and especially enjoy it when I get to do the Engineering side of the coin as well. About a week ago I was approached to do some Engineering/ Machine work on a gas powered four wheel drive car. The bumpers and skid plates on this car were made of cheap plastic and were destroyed pretty quickly. I was given Cart Blanche to design some components that would be more durable and help protect the engine and drive train components. I used high grade Delrin and Stainless Steel and attached everything with S.S. hardware. I had no idea that these cars were so expensive ($400.00 to $1100.00 for a single car!) and I also didn't know that there would be a market for replacement parts. Since completing this project, I have had two more orders for parts, Boy, I sure would like to do this for a living! Earl
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After drive shaft, rear drive, brake, front fork springs, and wiring problems IT'S DONE. Went down the road today and ran so well I ALMOST forgot how cold it was. Still will install new brake pads and some chrome I bought but looks like it's ready to ride. Thanks for all the help everyone made repairs much faster.
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First of all, I'm not much of mechanic but have been studying everyone's experience and decided to get give it a shot. Today I pulled the differential on my 2000 RSV after I removed the wheels to install my new Avons. That went pretty well using my new Carbon One adaptor and everyone's advice. But then, had a horrible time getting the drive shaft out of the differential. Ended up destroying the seal to get it off. Now, am struggling to get the rest of the seal off the shaft - have it soaking in some carb cleaner right now. Also, it appeared that the output end of the drive shaft (part that goes inside the pumkin after the seal) is lubed by rear end grease. Couple questions: Is there a better way to get that seal off the drive shaft? Why do you grease the output end of the drive shaft if it is bathed in differential grease? What do you have to leave on the rear wheel for the shop to install the new tire and balance? I have removed the disk brake rotors on all the wheels to protect them. (Found that a shot of WD40 on all the bolts as well as a slight tap with the ball peen hammer on the head of the bolt allowed them to be extracted pretty easy.) I have purchased some Honda Moly60 to grease everything when reassembling. Thanks in advance, Jinksy
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I have read a few posts on this but still have a few questions. I plan on lubing the rear end in 3 places when I change my rear tire on my 07 RSV. Rear hub drive pins Rear hub splines Rear drive shaft splines (front and back) This is the first time I have done this. The shop manual says to use Lithium soap for rear hub area and Moly for driveshaft. I have read posts about the Honda Moly 60 paste on this site. I mentioned the Moly 60 paste to my dealer who was hesitant to use something with such a high Moly content. I didnt get into a big discussion with him as I want him to stand behind me if there are problems in the future. He has no problem with me doing my own service but seemed to be more comfortable with the lithium soap on rear and normal moly on the driveshaft. Is there a real compelling reason to use Moly 60 or is it more important that you simply grease things to spec? Are the three areas above all that need greasing in the rear end? Any feedback is always appreciated. Thanks Jim
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Hi everyone. Great forum! I have an 86' with 54k. I've put 4k on it since I bought it last Oct 2008. The bike rules in every regard. However, since I've owned it it has always had a consistent whine from somewhere in the drivetrain. THe whine is always there. Wether accelerating, decelerating, coasting, engine on or engine off. In or out of gear. Clutch in or out. The first thing I did when I bought the bike was change the final drive fluid. The previous owner was pretty neglectful of the mantainence so I was suprised when the fluid that came out looked almost new. No flakes or anything. I filled it with synthetic and nothing changed. Having experienced a failed pinion bearing on my BMW k75 and also my jeep cherokee, I know what dying bearings sound like. This almost sounds like backlash out of whack. However, in my experience, bad backlash adj. sounds different on the drive or coast side and also depending on how hot the gears are. This is consistent all the time. For awhile I thought it was the front tire that was cupped all to hell but I just replaced the tires. It's not the tires. Definitely coming from down yonder. There's no clunkiness or slop in the final drive and the bike is smooth overall. Just a whine that sounds like a semitruck (not as loud though). It doesn't bother me too much but I'm getting a little paranoid. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! -
If anyone needs a final drive for their 1st Gen, you might want to check out this link: http://tinyurl.com/88finaldrive I've purchased a few things from this Ebay vendor and have always been very happy with the quality of the parts he offers and his prompt turn-around time. TERRY
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Well, looks like I'm joining the group that's selling their bike. I have been off work since the end of Sept. with major headaches , dizziness and blurred vision along with aching muscles. Gone thru lots of tests and scans but the doctors can't find anything. ( I know, my friends said there is nothing to find in your head!!) Not aloud to drive a car so I know the bike will be out. So that's the main reason as well as the bills are way behind. GREAT bike for someone. BTW, all info is in the classifieds, also selling helmets and jackets.
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Well, back from Iraq and ready to hit the road.... well almost. In my Brigade, we're required to go through the MSF course everytime we return from a deployment... so..... I buy a battery, go get my tags renewed and drive up to the class. Here I am sitting next to 5 Harley Davidsons on my 84 XVZ1200 with no side plastics. (a note.... when you leave for 15 months, leave the tupperware on the bike... one of my wife's friends backed over all my right pannier and all my side plastic except the left side engine cover piece) Anyway, I digress.... So I'm sitting there with the Harley (all under 2k on the odometer by the way) and the instructors start thier safety inspection..... guess who needs new tires? I drive away.... denied. On the way home I have several problems I have previously posted here. Well, since it will be another payday before I can get new rubber... I undertake the dreaded thorough carb cleaning. I got the carbs off the bike and so far I have checked the left side diaphrams, rubber is good, just very dirty. I'll be off to buy carb cleaner tomorrow. I dread splitting the carbs, I wish I could get to the bowls without disassembling any further , but I'll just have to have at it. While I'm in there, I plan on replacing all screws with hex head screws as suggested here. I looked a a couple of assorted metric o-ring packs at auto zone, and am not sure if I should go that route or Just clean the ones I have as well as possible. Also, as my diaphrams seem good, when I put the covers back on, should I use a thin coat of sealant around the edges or do the old diaphrams seal well enough.... I mean, the things are probably over 20 years. probably never been changed as the cover screws were all stripped out. Anyway, the long winded reasons for this post: 1) I originally had rags stuffed into the inlet holes after removing the carbs, but It seems my dog had nothing better to do today than remove them from the bike..... all four of them. I have since put heavy duty freezer bags over them and secured them with the hose clamps. I am somewhat concerned about what might have gotten in, as Colorado is extremely windy this time of year. Does anyone have any suggestions as to any precautions I should take before reinstalling the carbs? should I stick a vacuum hose in there before I put the carbs on? 2) Right now, the carbs are off, the front fairing is still in place and the seat is awaiting an ebay replacement. I'll hopefully be taking the wheels off soon, so I can take them up to have the tires changed (not allowed to drive the bike up to the local deal... sometimes the army sucks). Is there any maintenance that has probably been neglected that should be done while the bike is this far apart. I'm already planning on greasing the splines and changing final drive fluids, and would welcome any suggestions. Thanks for all the help you guys always provide. Mark PS: I don't suppose anyone has an Idea where I can get most of the 1st gen plastic for cheap? I was able to glue one lower fairing (L shaped piece), and the other is only missing about 2" of the end that attaches to the front plastic "crossmember" I can probably fiberglass something up for that one, but no luck at all on all the rest. -
have an '06 stratoliner. thinking of purchasing an '08 venture. we' re going on a ride out to the upper west coast this summer and was wondering if the upgrade was worth it. have nothing but good things to say about the stratoliner, but was looking for more comfort on a long drive. any help would be appreciated...
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I put 4 new tires on the wifes pickup today. I still had another 6-8000 miles of safe running on the old set but. The weather man is calling for back to back snow events all month for February.Better safe then sorry. Ramona still won't drive in snowy weather. I could buy her a D9 and she still wouldn't drive it in the snow.
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Well, I bit the bullet and ordered the overstuffed Driver backrest from Diamond R. I am hoping this will help me from slouching when I drive. Anyone with this backrest or any confirm it will help. Thanks....
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Subject: Rules of Minnesota Here's to all of us who live in Minnesota , some born and raised here. Some got here as fast as they could and others who would like to be from Minnesota . Rules of Minnesota : 1. Pull your droopy pants up. You look like an idiot. 2. Let's get this straight; it's called a 'gravel road.' I drive a Pickup truck because I want to. No matter how slow you drive, you're going to get dust on your Lexus. Drive it or get out of the way. 3. You say our lakes smell to you. They smell like money to us. Get over it. 4. So you have a $60,000 car. We're impressed. We have $250,000 combines that are driven only 3 times ayear. 5. So every person in every pickup waves. Its called being friendly. try to understand the concept. 6. If that cell phone rings while a bunch of ducks are coming in; we WILL shoot it out of your hand. You better hope you don't have it up to your ear at the time. 7. Yeah, we eat walleye & northern pike and love it. You really want sushi & caviar? It's available at the corner bait shop. 8. The 'Opener' refers to the first day of deer season. It's a Religious holiday held the closest Saturday to the first of November. 9. We open doors for women. That is applied to all women, regardless of age. 10. No, there's no 'vegetarian special' on the menu. Order steak. Or you can order the Chef's Salad and pick off the pound of ham & turkey. 11. When we fill out a table, there are three main dishes: meats, vegetables, and breads. We use three spices: Onion, Pepper, and Garlic! 12. College and High School Football is as important here as the Lakers and the Knicks, and a lot more fun to watch. 13. Yeah, we have golf courses. But don't hit the water hazards --it spooks the fish. 14. Colleges? Try St. Olaf, Concordia, or St.John's . They come outta there with an education plus a love for God and country, and they still wave at passing pickups when they come home for the holidays. 15. We have more folks in the Army, Navy, Air Force and Marines, than any other state, so 'Don't mess with Minnesota .' If you do, you will get whipped by the best.' Minnesota is the greatest state ever!!
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By now I am sure that everyone has heard on the news about the "FIRE" this past weekend that started in Sylmar, CA. We are all okay and the dogs are okay. We (5/6 staff members) came in around 1:30 AM Saturday morning and evacuated 69 dogs around 2:30 AM. We loaded up 6 vans with dogs in crates, on tie-downs (and a couple riding in the passenger seats..smile) and went to the Wal-Mart Shopping center in Santa Clarita, CA (which is about 9-10 miles north of the center through the Newhall Pass). The air was clear and we were able to walk, water and exercise the dogs. Around 7:00 AM, local puppy raisers started arriving to help with the walking of the dogs. Around 9:00 AM we decided to see if we could place the dogs in puppy raiser homes locally (throughout the Los Angeles greater area) so our Puppy Manager who was home sick in bed got up and started calling people. We arranged to meet at the Rose Bowl to place the dogs. To get there, we had to drive through Santa Clarita the back way up through Palmdale, CA out the 138 highway to the I-15, south to the I-210 back to the Rose Bowl. So, to get to what would have been a 45 minute drive to the Rose Bowl, turned into about a 2 ½ hour drive. When we got to the Rose Bowl, there was over 90 puppy raisers there to take dogs. By that time we had about 47 dogs left to place as the Santa Clarita group took 12. I can't believe how fast the puppy raisers mobilized and came to our aid. What HEROs. Anyway, the kennels, dorm and admin building received no damage other than ash accumulation and the smell of smoke. To give you an idea of how close the fires were, the Mobile Home Park that burned to the ground is about 1.25 miles from the school to the west, the hospital that was evacuated and lost some outbuildings is about ½ mile north of the school. At some points burning tree limbs were flying past staff members as we loaded dogs. The winds exceeded 70 miles per hour. I must say it was an "exciting" time. At any rate, we are all safe and appreciate the help from everyone. Chuck Jordan Director of Programs Guide Dogs of America cjordan@GuideDogsofAmerica.org (818) 833-6453 Direct line & FAX
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My wireless connection drops out 3 or 4 times a day. If I leave it alone for 5 minutes it will come back. Most of the time I just right click on repair connection and this fixes it. Once or twice a week the only way to get it back is reboot the router. My signal strength is excellent.Sometimes it will drop within minutes of being repaired. Another problem both my Dvd-Rom drive and my Dvd+RW/ Cd +RW drive have all but quit working. What I mean is they use to work on every dvd or cd I put in. Now they are very limited which ones work. Almost like limited to a certain file type. Drivers are good and drives clean. Any suggestions? This is a Sony Viao machine about 3 or 4 years old.
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I have an '83 VR. My manual says to check the final drive oil level you use the dip-stick. OK if you have a dip-stick. It also says there should be .3 litre in it. That's how I fill it. I pour .3 litre in. The '85 manual says fill to the lip of the filler hole or .2 litre. Well, that can't be right. It'd have to be well over .5 to fill to the lip. Anyhow, if someone has a dip-stick, could you give me the measurements so I can make one. eg, length and distance from the top to the two marks on the bottom. Thanks Jim O'D Australia.
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Greetings guys. Now here is a problem that I can not solve but therefore hope you can give me some advice. I have a Royal Star Tour Classic II 1998 and am just itching to grease my final drive, as well as doing some mods in the back with the rim off. I have the motorcycle lift so I am good to go except I don´t have a lift frame adapter. I know that Carbon One makes these adapters for the Venture and the newer Tour Deluxe models but not for the older Stars. Is there anybody out there that knows where I can get one made for my bike? How do you guys with these older models do this? Wooden blocks is the last choice but I would rather not go that path. Like to have the things I need for my bike and want to play things safe so to speak. Sincerely hope that you guys can give me some advice on this so I wont have to wheel my queen to the repair shop for a simple task of final drive greasing.
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Speedometer drive
okiefirefighter posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I took the forks off to have them rebuilt and now I need to know if the drive unit goes in front or behind the forks? Thanks, Kevin -
I just read through the Kawasaki Voyager thread. I saw several comments disparaging the belt drive. I don't understand the down side of a belt final drive?? I like shaft drive, but I've also owned a RoadStar with belt drive that I thought was just fine. I'd like to know what I'm missing. What makes shaft drive superior to belt?
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I have a small oil leak. It looks like it might be coming from the drive shaft. It's on the pavement just behind the sidestand. It's not much, but I plan on leaving tomorrow for Mississippi. Anybody have any ideas. Is there a place I can check the level in the drive shaft? Don't want any trouble on the road. Thanks for any help you guys can give me. Jackie
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Question to the experts. Is it possible, from lack of grease, for the Coupling Gear to wear enough to allow wobble of the drive shaft? This is not on my RSV but rather on my VStar 650. They are very similar in design. I have been having problems with a noise in the final drive. I disassembled everything (or so I thouhgt) and greased it. Turns out only half of the coulping gear got grease. Upon FULLY disassembling the unit, I grease the end of the drive shaft and the end of the pinion shaft. Upon doing so, the grease truned a nice rust color. After putting everything back together and the wheel on the bike, the "clicking" noise had subsided greatly. I ask about the wobble because there is a small but noticable groove half way round the drive shaft right about where the shaft goes through the housing. I am hoping that the engineers designed all this so that coupling gear ($18 part) would wear out first/fastest so to save the drive shaft ($125) from damage. Do I dare just replace the coupling gear and see if all "clicking" noise goes away? Sort of a one-piece-at-a-time approach?
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I went on a ride to day 7:30AM about 48 degree's all of a sudden a loud whine, Puled in clutch still whine. Slowed down the bike so did the whine just be for complete stop the whine stop. Stared to go again no whine then about 20 miles the whine returned same as before pulled in clutch still whine just before stop it quit. Did this three times in 50 miles. Sound like from the u joint or drive shaft, I greased the final drive and the drive shaft when I put new tire on 11,000 miles ago. Went 150 Miles never happened again, I have a new tire to put on the rear so while it was apart maybe I can fix this if I new what it might be. Thanks, Dale
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The rest of the pictures for the wheel bearing job. The last picture is of a wheel pulled apart with brute force. The drive hub was pried off without removing the snap ring. JB
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When I removed the front and rear wheel bearings I used a blind hole pilot puller from Harbor Freight. It is a Pittsburg brand. Normal price is $40.00 I got it on sale for $30.00. You put the collet through the bearing and tighten with a set of wrenches. The collet spreads and grabs under the bearing. On wheels with spacers Tightening securely will force the fingers between the spacer and bearing. Then you use the slide hammer attachment. It could use a heavier weight but it works well. Stop and retighten the collet several times. The other pictures show the front right spacer, the drive hub, the needle bearing sleeve and then the sleeve installed. Also the bearing spacer tube and the rear right spacer. Note: the small raised ridge goes against the bearing. Also shown is the speedo drive tang and its spacer/ring. JB
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