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Showing results for tags 'run'.
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I need some suggestions.......I wish to install a passing light kit or lights or whatever on my bike. I normally do not use them as I run on high beam with a modulator during daylight hours and in most states to have the passing lights on with the high beam is illegal. But I do get caught out after dark on occasion.....and would like to know.....what lights light up the road? I want something that will light up a football field!! I do not run heated clothing...and will have only one other accessory, a GPS.......So what lights are the most powerful......and where can I purchase them. Thanks
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Today I got the tourmaster heated vests I ordered long ago. I hooked them both up interested in the draw on my electrics. I could not find any info on the amp draw but figured them to be the same as the competition. Well they are not. Each vest with collar draws 4.5 amps which was a lot more. Anyway I got them hooked up and they are toasty warm. I cranked both on high and kicked on the heated grips with the bike running in the garage (rained today) and even at idle the kuryakyn volt meter stayed in the green. I wont know for sure till i can run it all on high for a extended time but so far it looks good. Btw, i dont run driving lights. Looks like I'll be staying toasty!
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Anyone wish to run their car through this car wash? http://media.putfile.com/Newest-car-wash Cheers,
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i went into a mobil on the run station the other day, and was informed by an employee that they could not have anything pertaining to christmas on display and could not use the word christmas or wish anyone a merry christmas.so i am going to use the dirty word and wish every one a MERRY CHRISTMAS. if that offends anyone you can kiss my okole. bill :clap2:
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After a long dry spell, Dunlop has just produced a limited run on the MU90HB16 RWL rear tire. Ken
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Last week I had a rotational knocking sound between 5 and 10mph and a wobble on hard acceleration.Well I took the rear wheel off today to find the problem and I found that the wheel bearing at the differential was Gone and the drive cog in the differential was loose. Would a second gen still have gotten me home from a 300 mile run at 80 to 90 mph? Here are some pics of what I found and what the parts should have looked like The bike was still pulling strong and had very little symptoms. Jeff
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Last week I started a thread about my neighbor who as nearly mint 1300 that he never rides, he just starts it up, lets it run and shuts it off. Well the day after the thread he took it for a ride. I'm now wondering if he follows the forum.
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I need the advise from someone withe experience with installing these slipons. Just returned from the garage where I thought I would "slipon" my new set of Jardines. As you would have it, nothing is that easy. The problem I have encountered is that the od of the collector where the stock muffler attaches is what I measured to be 1 1/2 inch and the id of the Jardine seems to be about 1 3/4". Therefore, if these slipons are really slipons; too bad they will fall the hell off. Someone must have run into the same problem and can tell me there is a simple solution. What I am thinking is to try to insert a spacer that would reduce the id by 1/4 inch. Seems like the reducer would come with the Jardines. Has anyone run into the same problem and how did you handle it? Any advise would be greatly appreciated . -
I have this neighbor, he's an older guy. He has a mint 1st gen 1300 parked in his garage around 8,000 miles on it. I've lived in my house going on four years and only saw him ride it once or twice. He will go out to his garage and just start it up, let it run for a bit and then shut it off. I feel sorry for the bike, it sound great and I'm sure it just want to get out there and run.........
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I'am looking for ideas for a ride this spring, We want to raise money for a Christian group. And some people may be offended by a poker run. any other ideas Thanks
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I know I've read this before but I can't find it. I want to go to Radio Shack to get a patch cord to run my MP3 player in the auxiliary jack. What is it called? Thanks, Bob
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wow [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Csf3OmGD8UE]YouTube - Police Motorcycle Competiton Partner Run[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99KKx7cB-Ok]YouTube - Police Motorcycle Competiton Good Solo Run[/ame]
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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99KKx7cB-Ok]YouTube - Police Motorcycle Competiton Good Solo Run[/ame] i know some have posted something like this but this is a good one:15_8_211[1]:
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I recently heard from one of our California members that he had been having some performance problems with his first gen Venture. He said that he finally got it resolved by a very good mechanic and some carb work. Turns out that it was caused by the gas that was being sold in his part of the country and I think that it is a very valid point. I asked him to let me know what was done and here is the answer to my question. I find it very interesting and it makes a lot of sense to me. I think it could also apply to the second gen Venture. Here is the response: Hi Don, good evening. I'll be as brief as I can, although Mary tells me it just isn't in my genetic make-up! My bike had just had a total engine rebuild, so should have run well, but not so. I kept fiddling with it, and it sort of ran okay, and was a rocket on the freeway. I went to this engine guy, Larry Holt, who has done two V-8's for me...I know how, but I'm 62 now, and someone else can do it for me. I told him I thought I had ignition trouble, and he said no way, not if I can do 80 on the hiway. And if Mary and I wanted to just putt around looking at the sights, the bike would run on it's own at 3000 rpm. I couldn't shut it off with the throttle return twist. Larry's solution was that there was a lean running fault because of the rotten gas we get here, and I'd messed up the carb sync trying to get it to idle as well as it did. We reamed the pilot (idle) jets in all four carbs from 16 thou to 18 thou, and reset the sync. An absolute miracle. Runs like a dream, with a ton of throttle response. The bottom line seems to be: the carbs were designed and built before the garbage gas here in California, and with all the added alcohol, they now run lean. Just for laughs, I put in some 110 octane aviation gas, and oh my! What a ride! Hope this helps someone, somewhere.....Best regards, Mike
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Went to a marine swap last Saturday and came home with a 'hit'n'miss'. It doesn't look like much, and it never may. I just couldn't help myself. I love to hear these old things run, and I always make it a point to spend some time taking in the display of chuffers at the State Fair. Besides I need a break from scoots for a while.....
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Alright, I need some help. I'm guessing I have a fouled plug or two, but I want to see if that's the general consensus. Whenever I'm forced to ride for a while in first and second gear, say while checking out a campground as I did with my father earlier in the week, or caught in stop and go traffic for a while, my bike decides it doesn't want to run right anymore. When given gas, the thing coughs and sputters and pops, and just generally acts like it doesn't have any get-up-and-go. It still runs, I haven't had it die, but until you get into third or fourth gear, it just acts like it's a struggle to get up speed unless I really hammer it. I checked my air filters, and they both look like new, and I've been fighting the issue off and on all summer, so I throw out the thought of bad gas. I've also run a full can of Sea Foam through it to see if maybe I had some buildup somewhere, but it seemed to have little effect. I'm guessing this all works into my mpg, which at 34 on a good day seems low to me, not to mention my 28-30 normally. Am I right in thinking this sounds like a spark plug issue? I've had a couple other guys (my dad included) throw that out there, though they're about as mechanically inclined as I am. So, if the plugs are a good place to start, does anyone have (or have a link to a good walkthrough) of how to check the plugs? I'm guessing the rear two are no big deal, but unless I'm missing some serious tool it appears I have to take off my tank to get to the front ones. So far the owner's and service manuals haven't proven much help. Thanks in advance for any help & advice.
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Does anyone know what type of exhaust tempretures at the head the 1st Gens run or how much of of a differential between cylinders I should look for. I have one of those laser tempreture readers. My bike has an exhaust smell like possibly unburned fuel people have told me and sometimes I feel it might be running on 3 cylinders but seems to run pretty well.
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Hello All, Let me run this by you, and I will try to keep it short. I bought this '87 as a fixer upper. Right away I saw that I needed Carb Diaphrams -- wow over $200. I found what was supposed to be a rebuilt carb on ebay for $200. I asked if it had new Diaphrams, Needles and Seats, he said it did, so how could I go wrong. Got it and put it on -- had to turn the idle screws out 5 turns to get it to run. Decided my old carb was probly better, so today I put the diaphrams, needles and seats in my old carb after taking it apart and soaking it in Sea Foam for 4 days. It started like a champ. With the Filter and airbox cover off it rips. (This is all on the center stand) when I put the cover on it dogs out at about 4500 RPM --- air starved, me thinks. Just a note, I have not synced yet. I saw some talk on here about drilling th airbox and some hopping up procedures, could some of my parts be needing the airbox drilled or... Any observations are welcome. Thanks D
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They work sometimes. Sometimes they don't. On the ride to Sturgis, they worked all the way there and all the way back until the last 50 miles. Yesterday they worked on the way to the club then didn't work on the way back. Hazard flashers work. When the turn signals don't work, none of the turn signal lights come on. I hate intermittent electrical problems. They are a b**** to track down. Anybody ever run into this before? Any ideas? I've practically taken the bike apart and put it back together again looking for a solution. Thanks.
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Ok, here's how my story goes. I posted a while back about my coiil going bad. I checked the coild, the resistance was bad, bought another coil. After putting it on if croaked after only 50 miles. Got it back home and tested it, resistance off. Book said to check pickup coil. Best I could tell, I tested it and it was with in specs. Went trolling around on the delphi boards and from what I read, if a pickup coil goes bad, it goes all the way bad and the bike won't run anylonger. Same for the ECU, if it goes bad, it goes all the way bad and the bike won't run at all. My bike will run, it's just on 3 cyl. Would it be anyone elses opinion that that seems to rule out the pickup coil and ECU? I'm thinking I got a hold of a 1 in 50 OEM coil that was bad. I can't think of any other reason why only one coil would go bad. Any ideas??????????????
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The digital display that is. No speedometer,No Odometer, No fuel guage. We took the 99 for a test run today. Fully loaded trailer, mamamo and everything. A test run before leaving next week. All displays were working fine until we pulled into Walmart for two hours. Left the scoot outside the thermometer said 100 degrees. Is it possible the heat may have cooked something or a coincidence? I'm splitting the fairing tomorrow to check on the audio problems. Maybe I'll find a connection or digital display fuse blown or something. If this second gen trouble keeps up I may bring one of my faithful first gens to Vogel.:smash2:
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My new '05 RSMV has only 400 miles on it so I'm pretty new to this bike. But I've noticed a high pitched whistling or chirp when I'm throttling up. It only does it when I'm giving it the gas and goes away when I let off the throttle. The bike is completely stock and seems to run just fine. However, it's really annoying after a while. Anyone know what this could be?
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Kicking around the Harley dealer today, saw several bikes with run flat tires. I guess the police use them but are available for retail puchase. First time I have seen these on a bike. There must be some drawbacks or most bikes would have them. Any experience anyone?
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I have an 89 Royale. After a poker run last Sunday I started leaking fuel from in front of the rear wheel. I pulled the side covers and found 4 hoses that run along and to the back of the tank. It seems one of them is leaking. It only leaks when the bike is running. RPM's are down and bike seems to be maybe flooding out. Could this be a stuck float and the line an overflow or vent line for the carb.? I didn't have much time to dig further. Thought I should consult someone before I began tearing into things. I tend to create more work for myself unless I check first. Any advise and help is appreciated. Thanks, firefly:fireman:
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Mic-Mutes Installation Mic-Mutes is a product designed and marketed by VentureRider member Bill Morphy. This is a fantastic product and one of the best things I have done to my audio system. The one thing I have always disliked about the intercom system on the RSV is the fact that the mic is always on. In order to communicate with my wife, I need to set the IC volume on at LEAST 14 and that is borderline if you are in a noisy area or running at freeway speeds. Any higher though and the wind noise picked up by the mics is really a bother, not to mention that it severely degrades the music quality. Mic-Mutes solves this problem with a totally integrated system which allows you to toggle the mics on and off by using the push to talk buttons for the CB radio. Operation is very simple...just press and release either button (front or rear) to turn both mics on. To turn them off, just press and release either button again. To use the CB...simply toggle the mics on and then press to talk as you normally would. After using this system, I can honestly say that no RSV should be without it. This is a quality product at a fair price and not difficult to install. The hardest part of the installation is stripping the bike down and getting it ready. This is not difficult but a bit time consuming. You will need to split the fairing, remove the seat, remove the gas tank. The Mic-Mutes comes with a small black module that will need to be placed either under the seat or near the battery area. I placed the module just behind the battery. Look carefully and you'll see it in this picture. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic10.jpg The wiring is pretty simple and mostly plug and play. Under the rear seat, on the left side, you will see a 5 pin din connector. Simply unplug the connector and plug one of the included headset adapters in line with the separated plugs. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic1.jpg Now you will do the same thing with the 5 pin din connector inside the fairing. There are 5 of these connectors inside the fairing, you want the one that is marked with the red tape. Simply unplug that connector and plug the other headset adapter in line as you did on the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic2.jpg Integrated into each headset adapter, you will see the telephone type jacks. There are two control module cables that come out of the black module. You will want to run the long one to the front jack and the short one to the rear jack. The best way to run the cable is along with the other wiring going to the front of the bike. As you can see in the following picture, there is a guard over the top of the wire way that you will want to remove to run the wires to the front. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic3.jpg After the wires are run, just plug them into the jacks. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic4.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic5.jpg Now that the headset adapters are installed and connected to the control cable, we have to connect the module to the passengers audio controller. This too is done under the rear seat. On the right side of the bike, near the trunk, is a 6-pin connector. Mic-Mutes supplies a tap slice connector to make an easy splice to this wire but I prefer soldered connections. Whichever way you decide to do it, you want to splice the yellow wire from the Mic-Mutes module to the green wire of the bikes connector. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic6.jpg The next picture shows my connection soldered. Then just tape it up well and this part is done. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic7.jpg The last step is to connect the power to the module. Most of you know that there is an unused power circuit under the seats of these bikes. It is located on the left side of the battery on the left side of the bike. It is simply two wires with a white connector which is not connected to anything. This is the easiest place to connect the power to the Mic-Mutes module. Again, Mic-Mutes supplies tap splice connectors for this splice but I chose to just cut the factory white connector off and use butt splices to connect the power. Very simple. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic8.jpg That's it folks. Just put everything back together and test. Mine worked perfectly and does exactly what it is advertised to do. Try it, you will like it. For more information or to order, check it out at http://mic-mutes.com/
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