Jump to content

darthandy

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,000

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by darthandy

  1. darthandy
    Now those sound really nice!! Kind of like an old '67 Chevelle SS with the 327. Andy
  2. darthandy
    Thanks, Gary. Andy
  3. darthandy
    Well, I got my ignition emergency bypass switch wired in as well as the ignition relay and my relay for the driving lights (Special thanks to Dingy here!). Now, I want to install a relay for the headlight and I've run into a bit of confusion. I looked at a thread by wes0778 who did this work and he mentioned tapping into a Blue wire with a Black tracer to install the headlight relay. When I checked the simplified wiring diagram for the 2nd gen, it shows a Brown wire with a Blue tracer. I have the fairing split and have found a Blue/Black wire going into a plug from which exits a Red/Yellow wire. Now wes0778 cut the Blue/Black wire and put the "downstream" end to the 87 terminal (I assume that the downstream end is the one that goes into the plug and comes out as a Red/Yellow wire going to the dimmer switch- this is what the schematics indicate.) He then put the other end to the 86 terminal as his "switching" wire (He had a wire coming from the battery to the 30 relay already as do I). So...do I cut the Blue/Black wire or should I keep looking for a Brown/Blue wire? Anyone know? I'd hate to cut the wrong wire and wind up frying something...especially after doing all this work. Thanks Andy
  4. darthandy
    I had a similar problem this summer. When I opened up the fairing, I discovered that whoever installed the lights originally (Probably the dealer) had used one of those "blade" type power taps. Jiggling it back and forth would turn the lights off and on. I removed it and soldered the wires back together and replaced the glass fuse with an ATC style. I also relocated the fuse to a spot near the opening in the fairing by the neck of the frame so that if the fuse blows, I can replace it without splitting the fairing. While you're at it, you should put a relay into the circuit. I didn't and my ignition switch was toasted. I just finished removing it and repairing it (Temporarily till I get another switch) and putting a relay into the ignition circuit. Next up is a relay for the headlight and driving lights. That should ease the load on the ignition switch. Oh yeah...I put in an emergency bypass too...just in case my repair fails before I can get another switch. Here's a link to an excellent document by Dingy. It does a great job of explaining (With diagrams) how to understand what is going on and how to install relays where needed. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43150&highlight=relays+101 Good luck. Andy
  5. darthandy
    I got them all....now I'm not sure if that's good...or bad! Say here's another for you. 12) How far into a tunnel can a person run? answer - only half way...then he's running out of the tunnel. Andy
  6. darthandy
    Is it political if we insult a "government" in general? Especially if it's the truth? Andy
  7. darthandy
    Well, I forced and I forced and then had to go to the bathroom. I still prefer to avoid the collision...or...better yet...how about a pair of 50,000 watt lasers on the front of the bike? A vaporised vehicle wouldn't be a danger right? Now of course, there's that semi trailer-sized generator you would have to tow.... Hmmmm - wonder how that new battery technology is coming? Andy
  8. darthandy
    Well, it looks like you're better off with the bag than without it. But...it looks like the rider's head still hits the vehicle, as it was just above the top edge of the bag. Either way, I still prefer to not hit the vehicle at all. We still need that invisible shield technology from Star Trek! Andy
  9. darthandy
    A car tire on the front is one really horrible idea! It would screw up your handling more than you can imagine! Why would you want to do that? Andy
  10. darthandy
    According to http://www.wired .com, Never Wet is still in the development stage, but may be available some time next year. Sure opens up a lot of possibilities for motorcycling and motorcycle equipment, doesn't it? Andy
  11. darthandy
    There is no such thing as a national directory of cell phone numbers and nothing is going public. This is a false story started around 2005 (I've received it two or three times in the last few years) in the U.S. and has been spreading to other countries. Just check with Snopes.com, which is what I always do before forwarding any such stories (Free computer give away's, poisonous light bulbs, etc.) Oh...and there's a little problem with the "Do not call list" in Canada (May also apply to the U.S.). We got on the list about a year and a half ago and started getting more calls instead of fewer calls. So...I did a little checking. It turns out that any telemarketing company in any country can ask for the list, but only Canadian companies have to adhere to it. That means that a telemarketing company in a foreign country can get the list and then have all those nice numbers to call since they are not legally bound to obey that rule. Andy
  12. darthandy
    Oh? Who sells it? I checked and the only kit I could find went off the market some years ago. I would really like to have one, as trying to develop my own has been beyond my admittedly meagre abilities. Andy
  13. darthandy
    I'm sure they're not perfect, but a man could spend a very pleasant and exhausting lifetime looking for the few minor faults! Oh yeah...the bikes were nice too, I guess...I mean, there were bikes, right? Andy
  14. darthandy
    I've had my RSV since July this year and have put over 6,000 Km (about 3,800 mi) on it since then in the dry and in the rain. I have never had a problem with locking up the rear brake whether two up or one up. Could there be a pad material difference between the '99 and '00 versions? Andy
  15. darthandy
    Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
  16. darthandy
    And just think about this...there's a good chance you can get better info on your Victory on this site than on the Victory site. Remember...when it comes to bikes, we are all knowing and all seeing ...:rotf::rotf: well...at least we want to help. There was some good discussion about the Victory not long ago...so, you may want to think about staying anyway. Besides, you know that eventually you'll miss us! Andy
  17. darthandy
    My RSV is off by 8% and my Triumph is off by 6% - both optimistic (Show higher than actual speed). As mentioned, this is normal for most bikes other than BMW. The German government is quite strict about vehicle modifications (Just ask any company trying to sell accessories there!) and requires accuracy in everything. There have been claims (That I have not seen substantiated) that some governments have unofficially approached motorcycle companies to request that they do this on purpose. The idea is that we'll think we're going faster than we are so we'll be safer! If true, this would mean that the governments in question believe that motorcyclists as a group are too stupid to figure out that their speedometers are inaccurate. That, unfortunately, is easy to believe - when was the last time you met an intelligent government official? I just calculated the three indicated speeds for my bikes that are close to the limits and run at those - limited access, rural two lane, city street - typically those have limits (Up here) of 50 KPH, 80 KPH and 100 KPH. Then if I were to speed (Not that any of us would do that - I'm just saying!) I would add the excess to those speeds. It sounds complicated but isn't really - especially once you've been doing it for a while. Mind you, now that I have a proper mount for my GPS, it's easier to check the speed anyway. Andy
  18. darthandy
    Actually, they're easy to tell apart...the sunglass lenses are not the same colour. See? Nothing to it!
  19. darthandy
    Well, first off, he should have run the revs up to about 3,000 and held it there while she jabbered on. Working up a good fart would have been nice as well. If she had leaned on my vehicle like she leaned on the truck the near the end, I would have accused her of attempted vandalism (Potentially denting the side with her huge weighty body) and then yanked her away - legally since I would have been stopping the attempted vandalism. I had to fight down the urge to hit the screen! Andy
  20. darthandy
    Yes, I had those as well, but they cause problems on motorcycles since we tend to be moving at higher speeds which causes the muff to press against the clutch and brake levers. And then if you take your hand out at speed...good luck trying to get it back in. The Hippo Hands have a foam stiffener in the cuffs to allow you to slip your hand out and back in at speed. You still need something (They suggest "brush guards") to keep the muff from pressing against the levers, though. Andy
  21. darthandy
    I'm not sure. If they mean the control head for the audio system (That's the only "large" switch pod I can think of on the bike.).Since every RSV would have it, I don't see how they could make an RSV muff that can't handle that pod. If you like, I can try to find out as the company is just 15 miles from here and the owner belongs to the same vintage bike club as me. Andy
  22. darthandy
    Don't forget to take the bike for a 15 to 20 minute run after putting gas stabilizer or Seafoam in the tank. This makes sure that there will be treated gas in the carbs, particularly the float bowls and in any other areas where evaporating gas could cause problems. Also, in case you didn't think of it, pull out the battery and store it in a warm dry place or attach a battery tender (NOT a trickle charger) to it to keep up its charge. And even if you store it indoors, you should either use a battery tender (preferred) or at least give it a trickle charge once a month to keep its charge at a proper level. Andy
  23. darthandy
    I have a set of hippo hands from many years ago, that I've used on a number of bikes. They do a very good job, but the newer ones have a better design and really keep the wind off your hands. With a set of these and insulated gloves I've ridden in below freezing temps for quite a distance before my hands would get too cold. As well, with the hippo hands, even one of those little "hot packs" that you can buy at most outdoors stores and taped to your handle bar will keep your hands warm for hours. A whole lot cheaper than heated gloves or hand grips, unless you do a lot of cold weather riding. Andy
  24. darthandy
    Thanks again Goose. The wire feed to the fuse block is less than a foot long with a ring type connector at each end, so I should be OK. As mentioned, I will be calculating the requirements per circuit, but since I have plenty of 14 gauge gauge wire (All my wire is AWG, by the way) I'll probably use that. It may be overkill, but I prefer having more margin rather than less. Why am I touchy on this subject? Well, I have to chuckle when forum members complain about the marginal or at least low capacity of the electrical system on our Ventures. They should check out my 1994 Triumph. Plugging in a GPS unit is enough to dim the lights! A big problem is the gauge wire they used. On these early (Pre-2000) bikes, every circuit seems to run wire gauges about one size down from what you would expect. I believe they have improved this on the newer models but we have to live with it on the older ones. A popular mod on these bikes is to replace the wires from the battery to the starter which immediately gets your starter spinning faster. That makes an important difference on these bikes since they also have weak sprague clutch springs - replacing a destroyed sprague clutch unit is a frequent happening if you don't install a stronger spring and heavier gauge starter wiring. Guess what I get to do this winter? Oh - guess what other problem we have...too much current going through the ignition switch which eventually fries it - and this is without adding any accessories! Sound familiar? And thanks again for the chart. Electrical work is not one of my strong points so I appreciate all the help I can get. Another member has offered to talk me through fixing the ignition switch - at least once I get it off. Thanks to this site I've found some nice write-ups on getting it out. Now if my body will just cooperate and quit messing me up so that I can get out there and start working! Andy
  25. darthandy
    OK, now I get it. I plan on using 10 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse block and then a separate circuit for the driving lights, headlight and ignition along with an appropriate fuse size for each in the fuse block. I'll have to calculate what the potential maximum draw to the block would be and go with a fuse that will handle it plus a reasonable safety margin. As always, thanks for the great info. Andy
×
×
  • Create New...