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GeorgeS

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  1. GeorgeS
    2nd gen, maint Library, pull up the schematic, on this web site. Lots of good information there
  2. GeorgeS
    Trying to post these photo's Friend of mine, just sent me these photo's of his neighbors ride !! Old Mustang 2 wheeler, thought sombody might be interested in knowing that at least 2 of them are still in service !!!
  3. GeorgeS
    How about fabricating an enclosure of some type, to mount a filter inside. Run a line from the Crankase vent to the new filter. then a vent line down under the engin so that moveing air would create a suction. With low points to gather the Oil, and this could be seviced at regular intervals. And the filter cleaned or changed also. ?? Just speculating, there must be some way to do it to satisfy everybody.
  4. GeorgeS
    Are you useing the Stock, NGK Plugs ??? IF Not, get a new set of NGK OEM, Stock plugs. Give some more details, as to how it idles, and runs when still cold. And how does it idle and run after engine at full running temp. Try to be more specific, The Guru's here need a few more " Clues " as they say. NOTE: Question, have you been trying to drive the bike with the Cover Removed from the Air Cleaner Box ????????????????????? Thats a No NO !!!!!
  5. GeorgeS
    When you pull out the Plugs, to check the color of them --- Are All 4 loaded up with carbon, ????? Or just one or two etc etc. IF its a carb problem, then the guy that worked on them maby set something wrong on all 4. OR, Have you checked if the Choke system is going to full shut Off on all 4, ie. have you inspected the choke lever linkage to All 4, ( adjustment ) Anything on that linkage bent or sticking. Also, the carbs have the " Enrichment Valve " On each carb, and there is a Diaphrame in there for that valve. Some folks have had problems with those, I have not. and haven't worked on them, but sombody knows all about that part of the carbs ??? --------------------------- Have you checked the Ignition Circuit, from the 40 amp Main fuse, thru the Ing On-Off Switch, thru the 15 amp fuse, thru the Run Stop Switch, to the TCI, and To the 4 Ignition Coil Primary windings (((( FOR ANY AMOUNT OF HIGH RESISTANCE ))) There should be no more then 4.2 ohms thru that entire circuit. That the Primary coil winding resistance. Why do I ask ?? Escess resistance, will cause Low voltage to the TCI, and Coils. !! Not good. Have you pulled the Plug OFF the " Pressure Sensor " and cleaned the contacts, its on the same circuit !!! The rubber boot is Vertical, and can collect water !!!!!! Also, the Pressure Sensor, could be sending a BAD Signal, to the TCI, This Varies the Ignition Timeing, not sure if this could cause running Rich. ??? OK, just throwing a few ideas out there to chew on, ???
  6. GeorgeS
    All I can say is that from 2 years ago, going back, 4 years, I went thru 4 Yuasa Sealed Lead Acid units. Average cost of those was about the same per unit, as the 3 Odyessy's that I have purchaced. Its the same old story with batteries, " They last as long as they last " !! Thats why I have a Backup installed on my bike---- And thats just the way it is
  7. GeorgeS
    I was thinking about rideing from Seattle to PHX next month !!
  8. GeorgeS
    The back roads were Highly congested with New Harley's !!!
  9. GeorgeS
    I did this on my 89. I have a hidden Switch, that Bypass's EVERYTHING, on page 7-11, block diagram. Its a double pole, Single throw switch. If anything fails, except, the start solnoid. I can throw the switch, and bike will start and run. I just don't trust all that Stuff,
  10. GeorgeS
    Hey !!! I went for a ride on my Rocket today !!! I'm still alive
  11. GeorgeS
    Will try to post this photo OK!! it worked--- Delta Airlines Recent lighting Strike--- I worked on a lot of planes with Strikes over the years, but thats the biggest hole I ever saw. Not to say there has not been worse.
  12. GeorgeS
    Remember, the Max load for the bike, is NOT the Max Load for the Tire. Its the reccomended Safe Loading for the entire bike, many other safty factors are involved, other then the Tire Max. Anything over 385 for a 1st gen, and your Overloaded !! Yes! I know everybody does it. But there is a sensible limit.
  13. GeorgeS
    Well if you make it to Washington State ( better than D.C. ) I guess, The Drive around Mt. Rainier, is the Classic Drive. #2 would be " The Dry Falls " ( and Grand Coulee Dam ) #3 would be the complete circle Drive of the Olympic Mountains. ( Include here a stop at the " Ho Rain Forest " #4 would be Drive Along the Columbia River, from Yakima, Wa. going West, to the Pacific Coast where the Columbia dumps into the Pacific. ( Astoria, Oregon ) Then, top it off with a Run on Highway U.S. 101, from Central Wa. Coast, all the way down to San Franscisco !! Coastal Route. From San Fran, pick up Calif. Highway #1, south to San Louis Opbispo. ( Thats the Clasic !!!! )
  14. GeorgeS
    Bike: with fuel and oil = 785 lb. Maximum Load = ------ 386 lb. Saddle bags, and trunk, are about 28lb. each Anyway, I just checked the book thats what it says. Check your rear tire for Max, load and figure that about 80 percent of the weight is on the rear. ( at least during accelleration ) I might be off some on the 80 percent. I carry about 35 in each bag and trunk, plus a 25 lb pack on the rear seat on trips. I weight exactly 200, plus about 15 lb for rideing gear. So I am running about 320Lb. full load on trips. ( No Passenger ) ( be sure to weight yourself, with full rideing Gear ) Yes: You are overloaded, at least, by the book.
  15. GeorgeS
    First thing to do is Replace ALL of the Fluid. Pump a lot of fluid thru all 3 Calipers. Use Valvoline " Synthectic " fluid. Just doing that might clear up the problem. If not, then most likley you are looking at rebuilding the Master Cylinders, and the Calipers. I assume your talking about an 84 ? If so, and System has never been rebuilt, then most likley you need a complet brake system rebuild. ( Age, not miles, is the factor )
  16. GeorgeS
    Went for a ride !!! Forcast 3 days of SunShine, looks like we are headed into a Severe Water Shortage !!!!
  17. GeorgeS
    As all above, either your CMS, or the Reserve lighting Unit. Have you pulled up page 7-1, block diagram, to follow out the wireing to the headlight? Its pretty straight forward, Except, the Inerds, of the CMS, and Reserve lighting unit are not shown. OK, if all else fails, this is what I did, Just in case what happened to your bike happens to mine. I installed a Double Pole, double throw Toggle switch. The Stock wire to the low beam goes thru one set of contacts. When I throw the Switch, the normal contacts, " Open " and the second set close. The second set of contacts, then sends voltage to the Low Beam, from a New IN-LINE Fuse, wired directly to the Input side of the fuse block. In other words, the New Circuit completly By-Pass's the Stock wireing to the Low Beam. Yes, the warning light comes on, Yes, the High beam may not be powered, but at least I have a Low Beam, if all the B.S. stuff Yamaha put in there does not work. I've never had to use it, but its there !!!
  18. GeorgeS
    The Neutral light, is powered, from the "Signal Fuse." and gets ground from the shift position switch. ( So, if ing is ON, and Shift in Neutreal, the green light should be on ) ( even if somethig else wrong in the Start Cut Off Circuit. All of the Ignition components, and the Fuel pump are powered by the " Ing fuse " SO: You must have had a power loss to the left, side of the fuse block. You must have had a loss of power going to the Ing Switch On Off contacts, Or, thru the On-Off contacts. Might be dirty or worn contacts inside the Ignition switch. Follow the Main cable " From " the Ignition Switch, you will come to a plug, open this plug and clean all contacts with contact cleaner. There are Two plugs, a 3 wire plug, and a 2 wire plug. Maby dirty contacts. I would reccomend takeing a Resistance Reading Thru the Main Switch ON - Off, contacts. do the same on the Run Stop Switch. On a different note: Do you happen to be a Red Tail employee ??
  19. GeorgeS
    The Run Stop switch might be intermittant, clean it with contact cleaner. Possibility that the Ing Swtch, on off contacts are intermittant also. One other item, is the Main 40 Amp fuse, open the fuse holder, remove the element, and clean it. ( 2 small screws hold it in place )
  20. GeorgeS
    Lubricate the side stand switch, Inspect it for damage, One more item, Inspect the " Ing Fuse " Holder, Tangs on the fuse block, might be bent, or cracked.
  21. GeorgeS
    Well, if you own one of the New ones, ( Ultra Classic that is ) Install an Oil Temp Gauge. You will be very surprised at how high the Oil temp goes. !! Gauges are avialable that fit right into the Oil Filler Cap. A good oil cooler will bring the temp down about 40 deg. F.
  22. GeorgeS
    Just a heads up !! Anybody who happens to be East of Washington State, There is LOTS !! of Rain headed your way
  23. GeorgeS
    You mean the 87 ?? right. Give the Run Stop Switch a Bath, with CRC 2-26 Check the Tangs. on the 15 Amp Ignition fuse, ( might be cracked, or loose, or bad connection ) Pull out the TCI, remove cover, put it in your wife's oven set at 110 deg. F for about an hour to dry out the Moisture. While the cover is off the TCI, Re-Solder all the wires from the Two Plugs, where they connect to the Circuit board. Give the Two plugs at the TCI a bath with CRC 2-26 Cable from pickup coils, going to TCI, plug about half way, enroute, open it and clean the contacts, and do resistance reading, make sure good contact in that plug. Open up the 40 Amp main fuse holder, clean the element, make sure the two small screws are tight. One more thing. The Pressure Sensor, located, forward, and above the #2 Carb. pull the electrical plug of that baby, and check for Moisture and Crude, resideing in the Rubber Cap over the Electrical plug. Might be an Ignition coil going bad also. Tach fed off the #2 Ignition coil. OK, that should get you started,
  24. GeorgeS
    Looks like a prefect candidate, for an " Easy Out "
  25. GeorgeS
    Well, I have had my 1st Gen, since 1993, bought new, and I have ridden it on many long rides, at Dead Sea Level, up to 10,000 feet. ( ran just fine at 10,000 feet in Colorado ) I live at 350 feet above sea level, and most every ride I take on a weekend, goes up to 3 to 5000 feet. Never had any problem !! The only adjustment I have ever made to the carbs, was resetting the " Idle Mix Adjustment Jets " You can do that yourself, takes about 30 minutes. Mine were off about 1/2 turn, more of less. ( that adjustment only effects Idle speed mixture ) And replaced the diaphrams, at about 45,000 miles. You can do that youself also. I would spend the money on a new set of Tires!!
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