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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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weird problem with passenger head set
LilBeaver replied to Gary N.'s topic in GPS, Audio, Electronics
I know they do sell the patch cables separately and many of the patch cables are the same for the various headsets. I went the warranty route because my first one failed within a month of me having the headset (I just waited a long time to do something about it because I wasn't really sure where the problem was, or if I was just nuts and hearing things). The second one failed sometime in the last couple of months (my passenger finally started complaining about it anyways). After spending all that money on the headsets, I was more than a little honked that the patch cables went out so soon after purchasing them, so I figured it would be worth the 1.50 in postage (since the worst case is they get lost in the mail or sent back telling me there was nothing wrong with them and I just have to buy new ones). Turns out it was [for me]. I also have a habit of keeping records/receipts for just about anything I do - so finding the receipt was no problem. Anyhoot - hopefully that's all it is for you and you can git-r-done. Checking the connections under the passenger seat is a quick and easy check though (if you have not done so already). It never hurts to pull those apart and shoot a little contact cleaner in there, work it a few times, then grease 'em up and put your seats back on. -
HA, actually I would believe it. I have found a number of service manuals that show a close up of particular parts or whatever, but never really explain where that close up is taken. Have fun!
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- 21 replies
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- accessories
- bargoon
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weird problem with passenger head set
LilBeaver replied to Gary N.'s topic in GPS, Audio, Electronics
I had a similar problem with mine (symptoms of problem not the slowing down or speeding up). The problem turned out to be in the cable that went from headset to bike. I have 2 J&M headsets and both ended up with the same issue. One is used more than the other, so one did start malfunctioning sooner than the other. What I did to check it was just a simple continuity check on the patch cable while wiggling the cable around and see if there are any breaks in continuity. If there are, then it is definitely the patch cable. My J&M headsets have a 2 year warranty. I called J&M, explained the problem, they said to send the problem parts in with a copy of the original purchase receipt (showing purchase date) and an explanation of the problem and they would fix it or replace it. I sent out the defective cables on a wednesday and had brand new ones in the mail box the following Tuesday. As a sidenote, the new ones are a few inches longer than my original ones - now when I am sitting on the bike the cable can be plugged in and seated in the little holder on the tank and does not stretch at all when I move my head around for shoulder checks, etc. ie. limited stress on the cable. Good luck! By the way, my problem with the headsets manifested itself as intermittent audio in either ear (not necessarily at the same time) and occasionally it was difficult to hear each other when talking - suggesting that the voice cable was also affected. -
Aha - nevermind all that. Here is a link to a link to download it. http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=3614 It is in the first post of that thread.
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Okay - Just got off the phone with my friend. He said he does still have the electronic version of the service manual and will setup a link so that you can d/l it in a little bit. I'll also see if we can't compress it a little bit to make it more manageable. Downside here is that it is just shy of 300 MB.
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Is it a VTX 1300 S? (ie shaft drive)
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Those are nice bikes, I'm sure he'll be happy with it!! As for the oil filter, if I recall correctly it is in an odd place... The rear of the motor. Also (again, if memory serves me correctly), there are 2 oil drain plugs - and be careful, they strip easily. Honda recommends replacing the crush washer on each plug when you change the oil too. A buddy of mine had an electronic copy of the service manual - I'll shoot him an e-mail and see if he still has it. Hope it doesn't need too much work
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If he doesn't chime in, you may want to drop Dr_bar a message. He had a unit (I believe it was a J&M unit, but it was a while ago that I saw it) on his Valkyrie. The little that I used it, it seemed to work pretty well. He can be much more informative than I am on it though. Good luck!
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Sounds like you've got some good info here. And I do see that you chatted with Ruffy - so I presume by now you are probably all set, or close to being there. But, I've got a few items to add anyway. As a warning this testing procedure is INCONCLUSIVE (as dug050 alluded to and explained above) if you end up with the readings that they claim you should have. Proof: I have, in my hands, a failed RR unit (since my bike was putting 17-18 V through the electrical system at times) and I passed their test. However, I would be willing to agree that if you ended up with a reading across one of the diodes that read no continuity (open) then yes, you have a failed R/R unit. Since mine failed, I tested it to the best of my ability, but without a standard to compare it to, I really didn't have anything to go on in terms of developing a set of tests that would conclusively determine whether a R/R unit, in question, is within spec. Unfortunately, I have been much to busy to actually git-r-done. I'm not looking to start anything with anyone, I just wanted you to know that you may not be able to completely rule out the R/R unit based on their test. As you have probably already discussed with Ruffy, the burned pins are not normal. So, I would definitely look to rectify (no pun intended) that issue during this process. I believe GeorgeS (?) has already mentioned it as well, but check all of the grounding points on the bike, as a corroded ground can do funky things to an electrical system. Mine, by the horn, was pretty corroded - I have no idea why, but I pulled it out and cleaned it up, and then I had a rock solid voltage reading. If you have done the AC measurements AND the resistance measurements on the stator and you were within spec then your stator is most likely fine. (Again, you and Ruffy probably chatted about this too). Sorry I was a little late chiming in on this one, I haven't been hanging out on here and reading everything quite as much as I used to as I have gotten pretty busy with my work and am at a pretty critical point in my quest for the good 'ol PhD. I'll try to stay tuned until you get this resolved to maybe be able to chip in some :2cents: or something. My problem wasn't quite the same as yours, but, I did have most of the electrical system on my bike taken apart for inspection and cleaning (). Hopefully you and Ruffy got it all resolved
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:no-no-no: Just WHAT are you thinking. Working for a living, SHEESH. What is this world coming to?
- 9 replies
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- arizona wreck
- charges
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As for the charges - there are a few things here. It is likely that 1) the prosecutor will wait until any folks in unstable condition to stabilize (either for better or worse) so that the appropriate charges can be filed 2) the investigation is still ongoing 3) the police/prosecutor's office has not released any more information to the press 4) the truck driver's lawyer or any of the motorcyclist's lawyers have requested that information on the matter NOT be released at this time (typically to maintain the integrity of a potential jury pool) Just some thoughts with respect to the charges (or lack thereof).
- 9 replies
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- arizona wreck
- charges
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Scare 'em all the way over to the Comfort Inn
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:yikes: WOW. I am impressed.
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:yikes::yikes: Thoughts and prayers go out to you, your group, family and friends! Don't rush the recovery. Gdspeed.
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Glad you made it!!! Forgive the stupid question but all I know about trikes is that they have 3 wheels (or 4 in annie's case). About how long will it take for them to do the conversion?
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Can't wait to see it!! (and I'm not even a FF)
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This might improve if you keep both wheels on the ground
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Yikes. Thanks for letting us know. My thoughts and prayers are certainly with him, his family and friends. Hopefully everyone has as quick, complete and painless recovery as possible. Gdspeed.
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Yikes. Sounds like something slightly less than a good time. Hope everything comes out okay!! (pun intended)
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How do I get brake pistons out of caliper?
LilBeaver replied to jonsmyth's topic in General Tech Talk
not to mention the shower of brake fluid that follows ) -
I suppose you can neglect the resistance check part of my post, since we posted at the same time, I didn't see that you had checked that. Yea, I'd give pinwal a call (if you haven't yet). Hopefully they can help you out. At a minimum they can take down your information and when they get one in, let you know they have it (and set it aside for you). A few of our members in here have done that, and I guess it works out quite well.
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Also, a quick resistance reading across the appropriate contacts (as measured from that pigtail) ought to tell you for sure weather the sending unit itself actually needs to be replaced. As for you locating one - have you tried caling Pinwall? I know that they don't post everything they have in house on e-bay, so if you haven't that would be my next move. That or throw a couple of 32oz MSR bottles in the saddlebags so when you are only a 1/2 mile away, you can get the rest of the way there
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Looks like you are about a year and a few months too late
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Just a few more thoughts here: Something that you may want to check is when was the bike put together? If it was assembled in 06 and has been sitting on the floor with old oil and has been run a few times you could be looking at needing a carb job, and who knows what else. Take a look at the brake fluid and clutch fluid reservoirs on the handlebars. If the fluid is anything other than clear, you could also request that the bike is fully serviced before you take delivery. I'd definitely insist on new tires (if they are the original ones that were shipped with the bike) and if they fuss about it, take a look at the date code on the tires (marked as a DOT code with 4 digits - the first two are the week of the year the tire was produced and the last two are the year). You can point that out to them and use that as some leverage. Finally: Welcome to the site!! Where abouts are you in Texas and what dealer is this bike at? Many of us have a good feel for our local dealers and may be able to give some insight as to how much the dealer may have actually done or know about with your prospect RSTD. My opinion about the bike: Not the greatest deal, BUT with fresh tires, carb job, all fluids changed, etc $9K OUT THE DOOR for a bike that you plan on riding for a few years and lots and lots of miles - I'd probably do it. The 5 year warranty IS worth a little something. Good luck!! Keep 'er rubber down