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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    If it is still leaking (and there is fluid left in the reservoir) it may be worth pumping/removing the rest of the fluid from the rear brake system to keep brake fluid off that rear tire and from ruining any painted or plastic surface that it might find its way to. If it is a busted hose/brake line you could always wrap it up with a napkin, paper towel or packing tape or something - just to keep the spray down/contained...
  2. LilBeaver
    Just because it is digital doesn't mean it is good, unless you also check the tolerances of the gauges. For example the "Slime" gauges that are sold (with a range of 0-160psi) have a tolerance of +/- 3 PSI () with a resolution of .1 PSI (). Which, for a motorcycle (in my opinion) is totally unacceptable and completely less than useless. For clarity, if your tire was inflated to 40 PSI and you had this particular gauge, slime certifies that the reading with be anywhere from 37 to 43 PSI. Rick, I'd double check your packaging (if you still have it), instruction manual or maybe even the gauge itself, as a decent digital gauge would have that listed on it. Hopefully yours is much better than that I have been amazed at how much of a difference 1 or 2 PSI makes in the tires. - As Squeeze suggested, checking against an actual calibrated gauge (if you can find one) is always a good idea.
  3. LilBeaver
    I forgot about that. Here is a thread that talks about it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41867 Good call Forrest.
  4. LilBeaver
    The book CLAIMS .91 gal in reserve, however, I believe there is some almost unanimous disagreement about that on here. I believe that most folks have reported ~1.5 gallon reserve. If you take along that trusty gas can, you can let us know what you find!! I DO find that I routinly put in ~ 4.5 gallons if I fill up a few miles after I switch to reserve (and the fuel light has been illuminated for 5-10 miles depending on how far to the left I have leaned since the last time I checked the odo/fuel gauge). What I have not verified is if I could put in an extra .5 gallons by doing the fuel tank mod thereby extending the distance I have BEFORE the fuel light comes on and switching to reserve OR if I could actually go a distance that corrisponds to 1.5 gallons of fuel consumption before running out. One of these days I WILL test that though, as I do have a gas can and a lot of open road around here... Sorry, I didn't mean to contribute to the hijacking of the thread...
  5. LilBeaver
    I seem to recall some discussion of this in the Tech area but after some quick searching, I couldn't find anything (but that doesn't mean it isn't there). I would look around there some more and if you cannot find anything I'd contact either Skydoc_17 (Earl) or Rick Butler (Rick). They will most likely either be able to point you in the right direction or set you up with some sort of kit to git-r-done. Good luck!! (sorry to hear about your leg)
  6. LilBeaver
    'Around town' type driving I'll get 150-160 miles (241 - 257 kms) before flopping to reserve. Highway (doing near the speed limit) I have done ~ 180-200 miles (289 - 322 kms) before having to switch. I have a '01 RSV and I have not done the tank filler neck mod... yet.
  7. LilBeaver
    Glad you finally got it all taken care of. I bet it is more comfortable to ride it this way than it was before, eh?
  8. LilBeaver
    Well how about that!! Yea, that stuff is a real bugger to see when it is clean - especially if it completely fills the window. Sounds like you've got yourself setup though between Joe sending you the parts and Sylvester's gasket AND install!! You'll be on the road, slip free, in no time
  9. LilBeaver
    WOW - Now THERE is a GREAT deal!!!!
  10. LilBeaver
    Looks like a nice ride!
  11. LilBeaver
    Just for kicks - I know you said the clutch fluid was [supposedly] changed by the stealer in January. It is an easy check - just look through the little window on the clutch master cylinder. If it is clear or slightly yellowed, it is fine. If it is real dark then it needs to be changed. To change it, it is quite simple - all you need is a bottle of DOT4 fluid and a hose to fit over the bleed valve (same setup used for brakes). I like to take a turkey baster and empty out the master cylider, wipe it out and get it nice and clean, then put in fresh fluid THEN begin the flushing process. This way you aren't putting old and dirty fluid thought the entire system (and it cuts down on the pumping time). Most importantly here, as the clutch wears the fluid level will actually increase (which is counter intuitive, especially compared to the brake setup) BUT take a look and see if your fluid reservoir is completely full or not. If it is more than 1/2 full, you might try to suck a little out of there and then seal it back up (that is if you don't have to flush everything out anyways). Now, from the sounds of it you do need to replace some parts, since if it was a matter of your reservoir being too full then it would get worse as the bike warms up, and you said that it is consistently bad. But, I figured it would be worth throwing out there since you are in a bit of a pinch anyways. Sounds like Joe has you setup so all you need is a gasket anyways. Good luck!!! Hope it all works well for you
  12. LilBeaver
    Joe: in 2003 or 2004 Yamaha added a vent hose to the shock. So if you look up a later model year, the shock still fits and they are cheaper.
  13. LilBeaver
    With no oil in it I wouldn't try to crank it at all. How long as it been without oil? I would say if you do want to turn it by hand, take out the plugs and put some oil down there but if it sat in storage for a year without oil, be prepared for a complete overhaul, rings and all... Just my
  14. LilBeaver
    Just keep 'em below the shiny stuff! (Seriously, take it easy for the first few hundred miles, brand new tires can be really slick)
  15. LilBeaver
    I too will refrain from providing a smartass remark here. Dave has summed things up quite well. All I would add would be: 1) Take a REALLY CAREFUL look all the way around your tires. That means look at the sidewalls and the tread, all the way around. If you have a jack & lift adapter (or center stand) the easiest thing to do is get the wheels off the ground, lay down and spin them slowly to inspect all the way around. 2) If you did all of those things before you put it away, a double check to make sure you have correct/appropriate operation of the key components (brakes, brake levers, and smooth operation of the throttle - both opening and closing). 3) check over the lights to make sure everything comes on like it is supposed to. 4) Make sure you've got your CURRENT insurance card in there too
  16. LilBeaver

    Nt700v

    LilBeaver replied to Owen's topic in Watering Hole

    :think:
  17. LilBeaver

    CB woes

    LilBeaver replied to jrcain32's topic in Watering Hole

    This is one of them - the one that connects under the passenger seat. Did you use some electrical cleaner on it and actually do the 'unplug' and 'plug procedure a few times? That will ensure to clean off much of the corrosion build up that WILL occur on any electrical connection. There is an additional connection (that connects the CB unit to the main radio amp inside the front fairing). I do not recall what color the tape is on it but that would be another connection to check. The other suggestion would be to make sure that there is actually a CB unit inside the plastic box under your trunk. The "Audio" fuse is the fuse for the entire audio system - ie. radio, cassette, CD, intercom, handlebar control, and CB radio. Bottom line, I think your options are (in no particular order other than #1): 1) Connections dirty/not actually making a good connection 2) CB unit itself is not present 3) CB unit itself is faulty 4) Handlebar controller is faulty (which I would doubt since you seem to have control over the radio, etc.; BUT is still a possibility) 5) Main radio amp inside fairing is faulty Sorry to hear about your troubles. These kinds of electrical troubles I find frustrating because of the limited number of conclusive tests you can do before :mo money: Good luck friend!! OH YEA: keep an eye on Pinwall, Main radio amps and CBs show up every once and a while for ~300 and the handlebar controller comes up for ~200 occasionally as well (these are the prices for the components in good shape).
  18. LilBeaver

    Nt700v

    LilBeaver replied to Owen's topic in Watering Hole

    Not my cup of tea, but that is my OPINION. Then again, I don't think twice about hopping on my RSV to go do anything. I do, however, sometimes take my 78 GS750 out for small store runs or 'quick trips' but that is more of a 'I just felt like riding that one that day' than a 'I don't feel like driving the RSV'. Also, I don't mind riding the RSV around town since the slower maneuvering is the 'more difficult' aspect to riding, it gives me lots of opportunities to practice and keep sharp on my skills. My other reason of using the RSV for the grocery getter or the 'quick trips' is that I can fit a couple weeks worth of groceries in the trunk & saddlebags (except for when I go to Sam's club) so I can take the bike instead of my truck. Really though, if you like the bike, like the way it sits and handles and it will do what you want it to do then go for it! I know that I wouldn't even consider such a bike, but my back is pretty fussy about my seating position too...
  19. LilBeaver
    Wow, that was quick
  20. LilBeaver
    OOPS - Sorry, I missed the 98 RSTCII on your bike list...
  21. LilBeaver
    It is a true brotherhood/family that no one can explain and fully comprehend unless you yourself have experienced it. Then you can understand, but it is still impossible to explain to someone else...
  22. LilBeaver
    Poker run? I thought she just agreed to pictures? :yikes::duck: :stirthepot:
  23. LilBeaver
    Since you said that you took it to the dealer for Carb service, I would NOT run seafoam through it just yet. Things that I would do next would be: Replace fuel filter, carb sync, check/clean air filters. Then if it still bogs down under heavy acceleration (and you are not lugging the engine, of course) then I'd go back to the dealer and let them know that you either need some cash back or they need to do the job correctly. Depending on how that goes, seafoam or BG44k (to finish cleaning the carbs) might not be a bad idea. EDIT: This following statement (in square brackets) ought to be ignored - I did not read wes0778's tag line correctly to see that he has an 98 RSTC so is obviously a much better source than me when it comes to the rev limiter/speed per gear. I would delete it, but it has been quoted in another post.. [by the way, since you have a 96 Royal Star, I am pretty sure that you rev limiter is a bit lower than on the RSVs or at least the smaller carbs on the 96 Royal stars make them a little 'slower' than the RSVs and newer RSTDs - so you might not hit 45 in 1st, 66 in 2nd and 94 in 3rd, but I imagine you ought to be able to get up there at least.] Good luck - hopefully it is something simple.
  24. LilBeaver
    Wow. What can you say to something like that. I'm glad the dog was okay. I guess it might be too bad that cars are as safe as they are now adays...
  25. LilBeaver
    Yup yup - just like the others said. While you are in there - take a look at the very front and center of where the windshield will sit. If you are looking at two holes (or a set of zip ties), go get some bolts to fit in there. There are supposed to be two bolts that hold that metal piece in place and give MUCH more stability to the windshield. You'll see what I mean when you get there. By the way, welcome to the family!!
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