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LilBeaver

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Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. LilBeaver
    I have not looked carefully, but that would make sense to only have 2 leads. The service manual ought to give a description on how to test it. If your battery sits for 2 weeks or so and it cranks slow, that is not necessarily anything to be overly concerned about - other than replacing the battery. If it cranks normally when you jump the bike (with the battery in it of course) then your starter motor is probably fine. One little quirk in the electrical system is that if the battery is too low and you try to crank it you will experience what you describe in terms of the loss of the speedometer and trip meter. Not necessarily the blown fuse, but you did say you had a lot of crud in the fuse box anyway. I don't have the service manual on my work computer, when I get home I'll thumb through it a little bit and go check a few things on my bike to give you some more ideas on how to test that bad boy (and if I come up with anything else to check to make sure you get this problem licked).
  2. LilBeaver
    I thought you said you were going to fly Lonna up??? :stickpoke::witch_brew:
  3. LilBeaver
    I hope you get your speedy and as complete of recovery as possible (both your health and your tough relationship times).
  4. LilBeaver
    From the sales rep with the works shocks with respect to what is available for the RSV: "XVZ13 Royal Star Venture 99up Unit Rear 10.00 OAL (stock length) Durasport Series w/single rate spring and threaded pre-load @ [Price omitted by me for sake of discussion]. Ultrasport series w/single rate spring, 16 position adjustable rebound damping and threaded pre-load @ [Price omitted by me for sake of discussion] . ...." So, my question is for those of you that either: 1) have the works shock and would like to give me your thoughts on which one you chose and why you picked the way you did 2) Know a little something about these things and have an opinion on which one would be better and why. The "WHY" here is really what I am interested in since this will help me make an informed decision about which one to go with. Thanks for you time folks!!
  5. LilBeaver
    Sounds like checking that starting motor (somehow) is probably the next step (since you have sort of addressed the battery issue).
  6. LilBeaver
    This is the way my Yamaha shield (not on the bike) looks like right now - so that wouldn't surprise me.
  7. LilBeaver
    First of all - I would do as Brian suggests and verify the reading you are getting on your voltmeter. But, in order to answer your question we need more information here. the 12.3-12.5Volts you are reading - is this at idle? cruising speed? are you maxed out at the rev limiter? The electrical generator (stator) turns different speeds as a function of how fast the engine is turning. So, at idle, you produce less power than you do at a cruising speed (say with the engine revved around 2500 or 3000 rpm). The voltage reading itself that you have indicated here (with no supporting information) does not give anyone enough information to give you a valid answer one way or the other. We could all speculate, but without more information we cannot provide you with any more insight here. Some other information that can be helpful here: What is the power draw of your passing lamps? (are they 35W bulbs, or the 55W)? Do you have any other electrical accessories running (heated clothing, extra lights, etc.) If you are running 35W passing lamps, a regular headlight and nothing else and your bike is reading the 12.3-12.5V at idle (and something in the 13s at ~ 3000 rpm), then your system is fine - just don't sit idling with them on for too long or take a lot of short trips with them on and not putting your bike back on the trickle charger. Throw us a bone here so we can help you
  8. LilBeaver
    bet you could get a deal on the 7th right here! :yikes:
  9. LilBeaver
    Now that would be a sight. I bet he's got a thing or two more than what would fit in my bags though.
  10. LilBeaver
    NOT SO FAST buddy. If I'm over my jetlag, I'll be down there - and I'm coiming a little bit further than you :rasberry: Lilbeaver - who is ready to eat an ENTIRE cheescake while boomer cleans the drool off his gas tank :witch_brew:
  11. LilBeaver
  12. LilBeaver
    So long as you still get that voltage, you are right on target - and with that you can be relatively safe in ruling out the stator as well. With the R/R connection, if it actually has an intermittent connection due to a bad connection via the pin, you ought to see some discoloration on the connector but if you have a steady voltage and you simply aren't charging - sounds like a battery issue is more likely (and possibly the starter deal that Earl had mentioned). Some QD electrical cleaner and some time certainly can't hurt (as long as you keep it out of your eyes).
  13. LilBeaver
    Thanks Harry!! I have found similar prices from a few other dealers and the 2003-on shock with the vent tube is much cheaper than the prior without so, we'll see how things pan out - but if I can help it, I'll probably avoid the OEM shock just to not have to replace it again. Thanks for the heads up, this place looks like they'll cut me a bigger break on shipping than the others I've found :thumbsup2: Actually, upon closer inspection - maybe I could ride down there to pick it up, borrow some garage time from someone in the DFW area, and install that sucker.
  14. LilBeaver
    Right on. I'll happily pay an 8% increase if it means that if/when it does fail again it won't be another ~460 to replace it.
  15. LilBeaver
    While replacing the battery sounds like it may be in order, and as earl said - check the grounds to make sure they are clean and definitely check that starter area since that could be directly related to your problem. The next things that I would do would be to go ahead and do a check of the electrical system on the bike by doing a few things: 1) Start the bike and while running check the voltage at either the battery (or some other source you can get leads on - like the accessory plug that hangs out right by the battery). If memory serves me correctly (the manual is on my home pooter, so forgive me if my value is slightly off - but order of magnitude is the important thing here) the service manual says that it should read ~ 13.4 V at a moderately revved engine speed. If it is dramatically under or over you have a problem. If it is over, then you likely have a regulator/rectifier problem and/or an issue with a ground somewhere. If it is under (say ~12 or below) then the next thing I would do would be check the resistance on the stator. This procedure is outlined in the service manual and can be done in two accessible places. Places to checking the resistance of the stator (all done with the bike off): -- The resistance is listed in the service manual and do not recall exactly what the values are (I think they are on the order of .2-.3 ohms -- BUT look it up, because my memory on this is quite faint) - The white plug that is located dead center below the battery (probably covered in road grime and crap, but there - I promise) - The plug where the stator plugs into. There are 5 pins, a row of 2 and a row of 3. The row of 3 have the leads that come in from the stator and can be checked there. Another thing to check would be the harness where the regulator/rectifier unit pluggs in (the thing that gets in the way when you are trying to get your hand on the Oil filter to change it). Loosen the R/R unit (2 bolts on either side) then disconnect the plug (on top of the unit) and look for any signs of burned/scorched marks on either the harness or the R/R unit itself. There are 3 grounding locations (that I can think of) that you could check. The main one is on the neck of the bike, under the plastic cover on the right hand side of the bike, below the ignition and in front of the fuel tank. 2nd is where you have your horn grounded at. 3rd, there is a ground on the radio unit under the fairing (I highly doubt this one has anything to do with your problem, but for completeness I'll include that here). Oh yea, something else to check is corrosion/muck around and in the fuse box - especially the main 30A fuse located behind the cover plate that is adjacent to where the passenger's left ankle would be. HOPEFULLY your problem is a simple battery issue, but this ought to give you some other things to check. Hopefully you got something useful out of this post. Keep asking if you need help. :080402gudl_prv:
  16. LilBeaver
    Earl: I know you are busy this time of year (partially because you said so and partially because I have an imagination and have seen some places this time of year be completely slammed with business - hopefully that is your case). I was wondering what the situation is with your 'rear shock adventure/development'? Also, I now have a failed shock. Do you need/want to have a shock to work from? Or have you gotten all the measurements you need?
  17. LilBeaver
    I just requested a quote, I'll be interested to see how close my quote is to your $499. Did that include shipping?
  18. LilBeaver
    So - a few questions for you. 1) Have you gotten the shock yet? 2) If so, are you happy with it? 3) How long did it take to get? Thanks for posting!!
  19. LilBeaver
    Dang I'm waaaaaaaay too slow for that one, eh?
  20. LilBeaver

    Deer

    LilBeaver replied to Kirby's topic in Watering Hole

    Glad you hear you are okay!! Hopefully the insurance company will do you right and get it all taken care of Keep us posted on how it comes out, I'm curious as to what they will do to ensure that you vehicle is brought back to 'pre-incident' condition. :080402gudl_prv:
  21. LilBeaver
    No no no, it isn't what you think - I don't owe Don $5 (or 10). I had 'the groan' for quite some time now. I tried lubing the shaft and dropping oil down the schrader valve to no avail. This morning I went out to the garage and there it was, a nice little puddle right in front of the rear tire - maybe 2 or 3 oz. So, I wiped its undercarriage down and got as much as I could off the floor (to try to avoid getting any oil on the tires when I pull out). Oddly enough, I don't really notice much of a difference in handling or ride - I can't wait to get a fresh one on there and go for a spin to see what I've been missing out on!! Now, the quest for a replacement and the same considerations that everyone has made that has had to replace it. I don't really want to give up the adjustability of the stock shock (or spend the money on a progressive one) but I also don't want to have to replace this s.o.b. again either. I guess I'm lucky enough that it happened now while I will be at home for a couple of weeks instead of out on the road somewhere. Anyways, thanks for listening to me complain. I'll pipe down now. :bawling:
  22. LilBeaver
    Ooops. You are correct.
  23. LilBeaver
    As for your question about the replacement shields you could go OEM, clearview or F4 customs. Those seem to be the popular ones around here. Clearview and F4 customs come in a few different sizes too, so if you decide you'd like to try a different size or whatever that would be a good chance to do it. I have a clearview XXL with the goldwing style vent in it, and am quite happy with it.
  24. LilBeaver
    If it was an OEM windshield, loose screws are really the only thing that I can think of that could cause your problem. The OEM shields have slots all along the bottom for fastening the shield into the fairing. They, as well as any other bolt/screw on the bike - probably vibrated themselves loose. Glad you two are okay!!! I think it was here that I read about a member loose their windshield on the expressway and they weren't quite as lucky as you two.
  25. LilBeaver
    :crackup::happy65:
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