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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. bongobobny
    The diode pack is behind/underneath the headlight on the right side. It is a plug in black box about 1 inch by 1 inch by 1/4 inch. If you can get someone to lend you one that would be a lot cheaper than going out and buying one only to find out it wasn't bad...
  2. bongobobny
    FAT CHANCE!!! You mean I actually have to let the Hearth know we are coming??? So far only 3 confirmed couples = 6 people. Don't even need a reservation for that!! Of course if Big Tom does show up that will make 8 people, better let Chef Ken know we are coming...
  3. bongobobny
    Yes, I wanted to change out a rusty crash guard and ended up with a whole shed full of parts...
  4. bongobobny
    Yes, having done the exact same thing, your linkage where it goes into the cover is exactly 180 degrees out of phase!! It is attached wrong!! No, it does not go straight across with the linkage, I thought the same!! The linkage goes on an angle!! Think about it and it will finally make sense, it did for me!! Was kind of neat having it backwards though!! As was poi9nted out to me it makes it a little more theft proof being backwards... Photo to follow...
  5. bongobobny
    Now I LIKE this!!!!!
  6. bongobobny

    Spring

    bongobobny replied to SilvrT's topic in Watering Hole

    REBOOT!!! REBOOT!!! Fatal error!! File not found or corrupt! Please do system scan immediately!!
  7. bongobobny
    Well, Monty, my feelings on the matter are yes I enjoy the feeling of no helmet, no windshield, and a loud and fast ride but not all the time!! Other times I enjoy the openness of a motorcycle but without the annoince of constant wind, especially on long trips!! I guess it's a matter of what mood I happen to be in at the time! Even with windshields, wind deflectors, and even a full face helmet NOOOOO way does it feel like I'm in a cage!!! I still feel out in the open and unrestricted, especially by a seat belt. When I experience the true wind in the face effect yes I feel truly free but also feel like a renegade going for broke with no regard as to if I live or die. Very nice free feeling but not a lifestile I choose to be permanant. Soooo, ride on my friend, ride on! As long as you are happy and feel good about it I will defend to the death your right to do so!!!
  8. bongobobny
    The WNY crew will meet up with you at MD!! Looking forward to meeting ya!!
  9. bongobobny
    There was a member from Toronto who did a comparison of what kind of effect a gradual increase in oil made on the ride. This was about 3 or 4 years ago. Yes, how the bike handles is definately effected by how balanced or unbalanced each shock is!! Whenhitting a bump, it will cause the bike to pitch slightly towards the weaker shock. Not enough to be radical, but just enough that if you are sensitive to it you can feel it slightly. Sounds like time for minimum of new fork seals and dust covers, maybe more serious rebuild. What you should do is find a set of forks from a MK2 and rebuild them at your leisure then you will be all set to upgrade to R1 calipers and ss lines while you are at it to have a bike that stops on a dime...
  10. bongobobny
    Yah!!! It is a shame that our vain and shallow society has lead to things such as this!!! Yes, mommy was the one behind it all, the child is just a parrot of what mommy has instilled in her brain. Now what I have observed in life is our "defects" are what make us strong when we deal with them and overcome their obstacles. We need to stop thinking about what other people think of our appearance and instead think about what other people think about our ACTIONS and how we can contribute to a more functional society...
  11. bongobobny
    I have 2 of them! An '84 Royale that has had a lot of upgrades, is presently semi apart with 18K original miles and will be up for sale probably this summer with a prospective buyer, and an '85 Royale originally bought for parts with around 50K miles that I plan on doing a frame up restoration when I retire next year, then plan on selling...
  12. bongobobny
    Yah! 2 things. Find the cash for progressive springs AND new bushings!! No sense doing things twice. Second, find the cash to replace your bearings in the steering head, both lower and upper, and do not reuse the races! The grease is probably petrified at this point, and the races will most likely have hard spots on them from setting. You may want to consider one of Condor's heavy duty fork braces for the finishing touch...
  13. bongobobny
    You have an '83, carefully inspect the frame where the shockmounts, that is where the cracks develop. This issue was corrected the next year. Do a search on the issue on this site for more exact information...
  14. bongobobny
    Could be exhaust leak... BTW Welcome aboard, we are a friendly bunch!
  15. bongobobny
    Yah! Sounds like it looses it's charge level under load! Auto Zone should be able to load test it for you. If you need a new one see Skydoc17 for a good deal on a DEKA high output battery for the RSV...
  16. bongobobny
    I'm not sure but I don't think so, unless you do it via a link to a website that you have uploaded pics to. You can send attachments with a member email though...
  17. bongobobny
    Yup!! Just because a man eats at home doesn't mean he can't get an appetite outdoors...
  18. bongobobny
    A few years ago I looked at those and asked about it. The answer being you do NOT want to tow a shaft drive for any distance at all without risking damage to the drive train. You would need to remove the driveshaft to tow any distance at all...
  19. bongobobny
    But Don, how is that going to get me to actually read the classifieds?????
  20. bongobobny
    MY sister had a '54 BelAir as her first car too!! The Turquoise and White color, 2 door hardtop. She wrecked it when a guy plowing snow pulled in front of her. She bought a '58 Belair 2 door hardtop. bronze and white with the settlement which I eventually inherited when she bought a MGB. It retired my '56 Chevy roach coach I was driving at the time. Sure miss that car too!!!
  21. bongobobny
    Uhhhh, and he used it for...
  22. bongobobny
    Awwww, qiut reminding me of some of the great cars I trashed like a '56 'Bird, '69 Firebird, '57 Dodge D500, '72 Chevelle to mention a few. Back in the day you could pick up a used and tired muscle car for anywhere between $25 to $100. We learned how to drive on muscle cars!!!
  23. bongobobny
    OK first, I am NOT a fan of defeating safety circuits but here goes. First, the kickstand switch. Jumper all three lines together and you are good to go, but word of warning, it will now start in gear!!! Always check for neutral!!! Next, clutch switch. Jumper together. See warning above and double the danger!! Third, kill switch. Jumper together, the only downside to this is you loose a quick kill for the engine other than turning the key off. Not much of a safety hazzard here... Tipover relay. These seldom fail, but you can jumper the wires together but if you drop it it will keep running!! Not a good idea to have a bike running in gear while it is on it's side!!! OK if you are still determined to operate a dangerous motorcycle, here's what to do. On the starting circuit relay, tie the two R/W wires together and throw away the relay, it now is extra weight. Connect the 2 R/W wires together on the kill switch and you are good to go, but it will now energise the starter motor in any gear, clutch in or out, and all it takes is to have the bike move when you hit the start switch just once and down you go or worse!!! The bike will not run,though, at this point. You do not have to jumper the sidestand switch or clutch for this mod, or the following one. Now for the TCI kill circuit. Another easy mod and relay toss. The only way you get spark is for the sidestand to be down, or in neutral with the clutch disengaged, just like the starter motor relay. Same procedure as the starting circuit relay, jumper the R/W wires and toss the relay. Now you are really dangerous, because now it will start and run in any gear, clutch in or out. The last mod to make it entirely unsafe is to jumper together the wires on the emergency kill switch AKA tipover switch. Now when you drop it the motorcycle will go around in circles on the ground whether or not you are still attached to the motorcycle...
  24. bongobobny
    OK, brakes. Yes, sounds like either air in the line or need of a new master cylinder or rebuild. The MK2 master has a larger bore than the MK1 as the brakes are bigger on a MK2, but they will work on a MK1 so if you can, pick up a MK2 unit to rebuild. That way if you decide to replace your front forks with MK2 forks you will be good to go. The rears are the same for both models. Your proportioning valve for the linked brakes on the rear of the bike most likely needs to be disassembled and cleaned. No idea where to get any replacement seals so be careful not to damage them. All it contains is an oriface and springloaded valve that opens the hydraulic line to the front brake a few milliseconds after pressure builds up (allowing the rear brake to engage just before the front one does) and regulates the amount of force via the oriface (small opening). They are known to plug up. When bleeding the rears, that's why you do the rear before the front. and yes, look for the bleeder on the line coming up to the front, locared just behind the steering head. When bleeding, use a vacuum pump to bleed, it's the best way. Vacuum pumps are available at Auto Zone, Advance, etc for around $30. Don't go to NAPA unless you want the same thing for $15 more... OK cooling fan. The MK1 temp gauges were known for reading high!! It is normal for them to be at or in the red before the fan kicks in. You can always get a gauge from a MK2 and put it in so it reads a little lower, or live with it. There is also an aftermarket cooling fan switch that sometimes comes up on Ebay that will turn the fan on at a lower temperature. They usually go for about $50. Other than that, it may be a good idea to flush your cooling system if you have not already done so, and replace the thermostat. OK third, and this can relate to the cooling system, Carbs. Run a couple of tanks thru with a half can of seafoam each tank, then drive it like ya stole it!! Be prepared to replace spark plugs as this will loosen a lot of built up crap and foul out your plugs from the stuff! After this, sync your carbs!! Carbs out of sync will cause the bike to run hotter! You may find that your fan won't kick on as often! Also, there are little diaphragms in the choke circuit for each carb that, like your main diaphragms, may have pinholes in them. The best cure for that is to completely rebuild your carbs, and I highly recommend watching the Vmax carb rebuild video before you start!!! The DVD is available on Ebay... Last, the windshield. All 1st gens are interchangeable and come in various heights and widths. Watch ebay for listings, or go aftermarket for wider ones from Clearview...
  25. bongobobny
    Hmmmm, no boneyards in Oz?? Any year 1st gen will fit. You could try Ebay listings in Canada but not sure about shipping costs...
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