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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. Seaking
    I had several wraps around it and the revs held relatively steady to the engine noise.. I'll try different plug wires next time as well.. see if that changes anything.. Thanks
  2. Seaking
    Thanks Gary, I had the manual with me but couldn't figure out which setting is appropriate for our bikes. The tach unit defaults to 02 which is single fire. We need to set ours to 02, double fire. And when you run the bike, the numbers now make more sense this way. Though I synch'd the carbs at 1000 rpm (manual states that this is the idle set speed??) I then brought the rpms down to something that sounds more reasonable which is indicated around 580 / 600 rpm... But I'm not sure if this is the proper setting.. it certainly 'sounds' like the proper setting.. Test rode the bike and wowsers.. SMOOOOTH now.. hehe.. nice..
  3. Seaking
    Hi guys.. so here I am with the little digital tach that you wrap one wire around your spark plug wire, press S1 to set how it reads either single fire, double fire or what ever else it does.. It has the S2 and S1 button on it.. I'm getting set to Synch my carbs and hooked up the little tach device and now *I* have that bovine look of incomprehension on my face as to what I'm reading.. At idle, I'm either reading 550 RPM or 2300 RPM in either S1 or the S2 reading.. HUH? I thought the idle rpm was around 900 rpm on this thing.. but when I jog the throttle up to 1000 rpm it sounds higher rev that what I had synch'd at with before.. Can someone illuminate me as to what "Idle RPM" should be.. and what setting should this digi tach should be set at? I know it's a dual fire ignition system, right? ****************** Ok so AFTER using the dual fire setting on the tacho, and reading in the book that the engine should be set at idle (roughly 1000 rpm) I synch'd up my carbs, which were WAY off after this winter.. So yes, the engine sounds like I am now adjusting it at a much higher rpm sound than before, however, this is a HIGH rev sound for leaving your bike at "idle"?? It sounds too much like an engine at idle with the carb heat (choke) left on full... ?? If I drop it to where the shops tend to leave the idle its now closer to 600 rpm.. smooth.. not chuggy.. taste great, less filling kind of sound. This was my first carb synch with the digital tach and yeah it was nicer and easier.. ONE thing I noticed though that causes me issues when making adjustments. Either settings phillips screw, if you push against them the idle speed drops.. if you leave it alone it will come back.. so when I place the phillips screw driver against the screws, I have to be ever so gentle with it.. so to not muck up the idle rpm setting while adjusting.. is this common? Thanks again.. let me know what you think.. Cheers
  4. Seaking
    Understood.. I even went back out to reverse test the wiring to see what you were going on about.. silly me, sorry about that.. I have to dig out my old VStar reflectors to trial on those as here also we have to have front reflectors on our bikes.. if I pooch this task up then I'm on the hook for a moving violation if I don't have them up on the bike proper BUT my red LEDs are installed and wow.. looks snazzy.. you don't notice them much during the day time but any shade or dusk / dark and these pop up nicely!! I was surprised at how easily I was able to fish the wires through the tubes while they were still attached.. nice.. I just used a length of lockwire (stainless steel wire) with a hook on the end of it, passed it up through the bottom end of the crash bar tubing near the wheel, when the loop showed up near the two holes that are located under where the reflector light housings sit, I then used another hooked lockwire to hook the first one, needle nose pliers to pull it back out of the tubing. The red/black wires were taped together at the end, then the long lockwire hook placed between the wired and taped together down to a taper towards the long end of the lockwire and basically snaked it all back through gentle, being careful not to shave off any insulation.. and poof, just like that.. start to finish less than two minutes on each side.. wow.. I have to admit *I* was impressed how easy THAT was.. I connected the red to the saddle bag light bar system from Diamond Accessories ( http://www.diamondraccessories.com/yamaha/proddisplay.php?name=RSV/RSTD%20LED%20Saddlebag%20Light%20Bar ) and hooked the ground and toot fini.. Now, with all these lights I have on the BACK and side of the bike.. I pity the cager who runs into me with that bovine look of incomprehension saying "Sorry, I didn't see you".. I would be justified in rendered him a severe beating about the head and shoulders with a wet rag.. you know, just saying.. cuz, yeah... you know.. Once I locate my VStar reflectors, I'll add those on as well.. next winter project will be cleaning up all this wiring work I've been doing.. I wants to ride, not be an electrician w000t
  5. Seaking
    For me it feels like riding the rear wheel up a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood (some say it feels higher) but remember, that's at the rear wheel which makes it feel less at the saddle to feet location. Its that simple of an install, that if you absolutely don't like it or can't handle the height difference, you can just as quickly swap it back. I have a 30" inseam and have NO probs. The bike is that much easier to handle that you don't have as much top end heavy feelings to worry about. You don't seem to need to lean your bike out as far when you come to a stop and put your left foot down.. Give it a try.. it might take a few minutes to get used to but man, well worth it.
  6. Seaking
    Remove the yellow wire? What are you using as ground then? I tested the lights using the yellow as pos and black as neg which worked.. If I pop the OEM amber out of it's housing, the housing is too small for the new LED lens to fit in there, know what I mean? I'd have to do a lot of trimming to remove the edge of the housing to make it flat to glue to the back of the new LED lens. Or am I missing something?
  7. Seaking
    Ahh thanks for the info M8
  8. Seaking
    I got my LEDs in yesterday and was out working on them this evening.. Pulled the rear red ones off and got them separated nicely and with a small dremel bit got a small hole carved out the back to pass the wired through.. Glued the new red LED panels on the housing using Automotive "Goop"... this is a neat adhesive that really sticks to stuff.. Right now looking to figure out how to pass the wires through the crash bars without taking them off.. I shall be hooking these LEDs up to the Saddle Bag light bars connectors so I won't need to route them up but down through the bottom. There is already holes where the housing fits on.. Just not sure how to fish these wires through the crash bars.. Amber front.. Ok.. stumped.. how do you keep these attached to the front? Again I could used a good dollop of Automotive Goop there to glue them on but would feel much safer if they were bolted on like the OEM ones.. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.. (I'll be posting pics later this week of the additional safety lighting I've done to the bike this past week.. Quite 'attention getting' for the cager to notice you...)
  9. Seaking
    Well, 1500 km's later over harsh spring roads, rains and even snow and everything is holding up well after I properly re-wired my temp wiring.. silly me to have forgotten that! One odd thing I discovered but could not duplicate.. I was riding home that evening and noticed for the first time that when ever I applied either brake, the radio would crackle.. huh.. Ok So I figured by that time that my wiring job was very bad and a proper fix would resolve the radio hiss.. but after soldering and doing a proper job, the brake to radio hiss noise was still there.. HUH. The lights run under the back of the passenger backrest, the wires run from under the padding, down along the left trunk / armrest seam and under the trunk to where it connects to the brake light wiring etc etc.. I pulled the wiring out again and the hissing disappeared. But I could only route the wires through the same place.. And again, for what ever reason, the hiss went away again.. never to return again. Now that was strange.. huh.. Gremlins... I tell.. Gremlins...
  10. Seaking
    Leveling links.. the ONE mod everyone should be doing to their RSV.. its one of those mods you can do easily yourself and which you get the most tangible return for it.. you can actually feel it.. =) I installed so many of them already, it's fun to see people's faces light up when they go for that initial ride hehe
  11. Seaking
    How about shiny black ones instead of chrome? I took the eye brows of the fairing on mine for a more aesthetic look..
  12. Seaking
    Did you recently have any cable or hose work done to the bike before? I had an issue where my CC wasn't working after the janitors at the steelership installed braided steel hose and cables on my bike.. Turns out they pinched the actuated cable when they put things back together again.. But before that, I also found my CC wasn't playing nice.. it would sloooowly bleed off speed or disengage when I hit a bump.. but once they unstuck the cable and lubed the works, this bike now holds its speed very well and is quick reacting to hills and such.. quite interesting compared to before. Unfortunately, every bolt or screw they touched was torqued or tightened, thus causing the loss of hardware and me having to tighten everything down again.. Tech who did the work must have had been a Harley tech before.. I dunno.. wasn't impressed, and not going back there again... ever.. blech.
  13. Seaking
    argh silly me.. I totally forgot that I had installed a '3rd' brake light using PVC LEDs and had backsee wired it in to the rear brake light... Every time I hit a hard bump I think it shorts out and blows the fuse.. Blew another one today after a rather bumpy road.. I hadn't had the time to pull it apart but it makes sense that this is where the issue is.. Too busy riding, not enough time thinking.. =) Its early April and I got a sunburn while riding today.. wow.. gotta love global warming !
  14. Seaking
    2006 Midnight RSV gave me a bit of a "hello" wake up call waaaay back in the boonies ealier today.. wow.. I was riding with a new rider and he decided to pull over for gas (smaller bike) and I had a quick glance down to see how my levels were holding, a good half tank.. When I turned around to rejoin him at the gas station (it was a surprise stop).. I looked down and huh.. no indications on the instrument panel.. Oh oh.. No turns signals.. wow.. As he was fueling, I did a quick check of what was and wasn't working or showing up on the panel.. Turn signals not working or indication, front - rear brake pedals not working the brake light. High beam light and indicator working, Cruise Control lights working.. But no Neutral light indicator, no clock, odo or speedo info showing up there at all.. it's a blank .. wow.. If you recall I had a miserable time with this bike last summer with the steering locks scissoring my wires to heck.. I wonder if that happened again when I did my u-turn just then.. Huh.. but nothing is down there or near there.. Fuses.. Ok, pull off left panel, and yup. 10A Signal Fuse is blown.. wow.. One fuse, and all of those things won't work on your bike.. I thought that wow.. what a silly way to set things up.. But think about it.. You'd NEVER know your brake lights weren't working.. you 'might' notice your signal lights not indicating on your dash... but you WILL notice if your fuel, speed and odo were missing from the panel.. Mayhaps some brainiac at Yamaha thought this one up as a "hey dopey, your fuse is out" method, or someone accidentally wired it this way and hey look, it made sense.. Now, because of all those problems I had last year, blowing fuses all the time, I had a good stash of fuses with me... but no 10A.. lol... Go figure.. of all the fuses, not the one I needed.. Happily the gas station gave me a couple to make sure I got home OK.. Quick steering stop to steering stop tests and no probs.. NO idea why that fuse blew.. Apart from wiring in a 4W LED driving lights in a week ago.. nothing's changed.. So far the system is working well but man.. what a "oh oh" cold feeling for a second out in the middle of nowhere... time to get some more 10A fuses... just in case.. And how was YOUR day?
  15. Seaking
    Huh, I don't even notice it.. a minor non-noticeable thing for the added comfort of risers
  16. Seaking
    I think I have one laying around here after doing my mods.. I'll have a dekko and let you know if I find it..
  17. Seaking
    How was it with customs, what does J&P use for shipping? Thanks M8
  18. Seaking
    Anyone know where to get these in Canada?
  19. Seaking
    thanks for the input gents, a kind gent is having a quick look for me this weekend for a shift lever off a wrecked bike that will suite my needs. Cheers
  20. Seaking
    Anyone know where a fella could pick up an inexpensive used shift lever for the 2nd gen? I need to pick one up so I can modify it by removing the rear heel part of the shifter. I did find a shop in the USA and all parts together costs $73 (bolt washer and cover) but they want $89 in shipping UPS.. nice.. never user UPS.. sigh. So.. if ya know where a lad can find such a part, used, grungy I don't care, let me know. Problem I have is that the inside seam of my left pant legs sometimes catches the heel part and I have the feeling of getting my leg caught up and not being able to free it in time to put my foot down when coming to a stop. I don't want to modify my existing shift lever just in case I injure my toe or what ever and will actually have to use the heel part for some dumb silly reason.. (No, I have never been able to get used to using the heel / toe shifting method...)
  21. Seaking
    I've always had mine inside the front fairing and yes, it's still brutally LOUD lol.. I have mounted to the left side of the radio box, wrapped in foam padding (except the intake and outtake holes) to eliminate any knocking when hitting bumps on the road and reducing vibrations, its suspended mounted with Zip ties. Been there since the other summer, working super sweet..
  22. Seaking
    The bag guards, rails, where are these obtained from? I have the light kit that fits under the bags requiring you to lower the pipes which I end up dragging, I like the added lights in the bag for better visibility..
  23. Seaking
    I have a pair coming in soon for a project, I'll let you know how bright they are..
  24. Seaking
    the pros and cons.. ouch.. I had thought of doing this for my Venture as I get lousy gas mileage on my bike and the extra litre or so of fuel would really make a difference for me.. BUT, the other year I had modded my VStar and actually had the filler neck shortened when I had a flush mount cap installed.. And all I ended up with was a lot of trouble. I could put a heck of a lot more fuel in to my tank but it also meant it would spill out when you accelerated and any amount of heat to the tank (sunshine) would immediately expand the fuel and cause spillage.. out of the cap.. it's a vented cap.. Talk about doing a number on my custom paint job =( Based on that, I decided not to even entertain the idea on the Venture.. but it had a vent hose.. Hmmm And you could cover up the holes with JB Weld afterwards.. and the last fuel job of the night before putting the bike away in a heated garage can be adjusted to filling just to the bottom of the filler neck.. .. ergh.. no.. stop.. don't do it.. Bah.. I dunno now.. Big road trip coming up in a couple of months.. Hmm
  25. Seaking
    dunno if this photo will help you with what you're looking for..
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