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skydoc_17

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Everything posted by skydoc_17

  1. skydoc_17
    Hey Mike, I am thinking you have a valve problem in that cylinder. The compression didn't go up enough when you added the oil to make me think that the rings are the problem. Broken rings are not unheard of in these motors but I have seen way more valve related problems with these motors than ring problems. For what it is worth, since you live in Pa. as I do, I have a 50,000 mile 86'MKII VR motor that has good compression on all 4 cylinders, the only thing that is wrong with the motor is the battery drain tube came loose from the battery and acid dripped down the right side of the cylinder area. Nothing a little paint wouldn't cure. $100.00 and it's yours. If you need help with transporting the motor, I can help. You would need to transfer your water pump Carbs., and clutch discs to this motor, but other than that, this may be a cheaper fix than pulling the heads and reringing your motor because of the price of the gasket set. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
  2. skydoc_17
    Hey Michael, (Thanks for posting your name, I couldn't fine it in your profile page) If Stud is giving you a good price on the used sliders, I would buy two and replace the other one as well. You already know that the bike runs like crap with bad sliders. You wouldn't want that to happen 500 miles from home. Earl
  3. skydoc_17
    Hey Buz, That is a very good question! To answer this, lets take a look at the RSV motor. The valves in the XVZ13 motor have a single valve spring where the MKI, MKII and VMAX motors ALL have double springs. Without adding the VMAX cams and double valve springs of the VMAX to your RSV/RSTD, 7500 RPMS would be the upper limit of the range and guarantee that you would not float a valve. I am sure that a few RSV's have seen 8000 RPMS but that would be pushing it. With the VMAX double valve springs, my MKII VR sees 10,000 RPMS regularly! But that's a different animal. Earl
  4. skydoc_17
    Because the VMAX motor is basically the same as the XVZ13 motor in the Ventures, the 1500c.c. "Big Bore Kit" can be installed in the RSV and RSTD motors. Because of the increase in engine displacement, and the thinning of the cylinder walls, (because the cylinder bore has been increased in diameter) your cooling system needs to be in tip top shape as these "big bore" motors run on the hot side. To do this mod correctly, new pistons and rings will need to be purchased as well as a complete "top end" gasket set, in addition to the cost of the machine work, not to mention the Carb. work that would need to be done, and don't forget a pair of free flowing Air Filters! VMAX Cylinder Heads ARE NOT a direct bolt on item for the Second Gen. bikes but the VMAX cams and double springs can be installed in the Second Gen. stock cylinder heads. Being a person that has the "Go Fast Bug" myself, i would never say that a mod like this is not money well spent, BUT there are other mods that could be done for a lot less money and down time that would give you more "Bang for the buck", so to speak. One such mod would be the VMAX final drive, and the other would be the Power Commander control chip. Just resetting the Rev Limiter brings these XVZ13 motor's to life. Unlike me, If you have deep pockets, by all means, GO FOR IT! But remember that just bolting a bunch of parts on your scoot doesn't guarantee the fastest RSV in the land! I would suggest a dyno run or two in your bikes present form, machine work and parts would be added, Carbs. would be re jetted, Intake air flow and exhaust outflow would be modified, then the bike should be dynoed again, to fine tune the power curve and verify that the mods done did in fact add power to the bike. (In other words, MONEY, MONEY, MONEY)! Just my thoughts, Earl
  5. skydoc_17
    Hey Randy, It sounds like you came across a great deal, and right in your back yard! (Good jab, by the way!) I think it is a great idea to rework the tranny in the low mileage motor and install it as a unit, that way you can still ride your scoot while you work on the other engine. If I remember correctly, isn't your current motor at or near the 100,000 mark? A low mileage motor, with the Second Gen. tranny should give you at least another 100,000 miles of riding fun. Great score, it couldn't have happened to a better man. Earl
  6. skydoc_17
    Hey Cheese, Welcome to the site! Here's the scoop on the sliders. The plastic slider is injection molded plastic that has been exposed to Gas and engine heat for 27 years! The plastic decomposes and becomes brittle over time. The crimping die used to install the plastic retaining rings that hold the Diaphragm to the slider were known for not doing an excellent job of retaining the Diaphragm Plastic Rings. If it were me, I would buy new and MiCarl has the right part for a fair price. My second choice would be Stud's offer of good used parts. The bad thing about gluing the slider back together is if a part breaks off again, the next stop for it is jammed in an intake valve or the combustion chamber and the top of the piston in a melted blob. Not to mention the extra weight of the glue retards the slider action. I realize money is tight right now, but some things need to be repaired properly so that they don't cause the kind of damage that will cause you to scrap your scoot. This is one of those repairs. Earl
  7. skydoc_17
    Both Jean and I were sorry to hear that you had this mishap! I always wanted to see you get "nailed" but not like that! Get well soon Bob, Earl and Jean
  8. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, I posted on your thread about your attempt to remove your wheels for tire replacement, BRAVO to you for doing this yourself! I regularly rebuild front Master Cylinders for the VR's, if when you put the new to you one on, if it will not pump up, PM me and I will help you get it going. When you are ready to install the new M/C, PM me and I will help you with the electrical connections. There is a way to do them without removing the fairing. Good luck with your projects, Earl
  9. skydoc_17
    Hey Don, It makes me proud to know that you are willing to step outside of your comfort zone to repair you VR! It makes the ownership of these wonderful bikes all the sweeter, when you affect your own repairs! With that being said, here are a few things that I do when I raise a bike on a Motorcycle Jack for the removal of both wheels. With the bike on the center stand, Remove BOTH Mufflers to allow access to the rear axle bolt. Remove BOTH front calipers from the front fork tubes, (do not disconnect the brake lines) and remove the rear caliper from the caliper bracket, (again, do not remove the brake line) disconnect the speedo cable, it unscrews at the front wheel. I don't usually remove the rear side bags because I have removed a LOT of rear wheels, but you can get to things much better if you remove the rear side bags if this is your first wheel removal. After the mufflers and calipers are off, I usually loosen the front and rear axle bolts. Then drop the bike off of the center stand and put the bike on the side stand. Use your Air Ride Controller to raise the bike as high as you can, this makes getting the jack under the bike much easier, and it also helps you put the bike on the center stand easier. With the MKII VR on the side stand, bring the jack in from the side opposite the kick stand. Push the jack under the bike until the support pads show on the kick stand side of the bike. You will be lifting the bike on the exhaust pipes, don't worry, that's OK. With the jack positioned towards the front of the bike slightly, as you raise the jack, (one hand on the right handle bar, as the jack comes up, the bike needs to be pulled upright because it is leaning on the side stand. here is where a "spotter person" is very helpful on the kick stand side of the bike) the front end will raise first. Pull the front axle and raise the jack until the front wheel will clear the front fender. Pay attention to the placement of the speedo drive on the left side of the bike. Then lower the front fork tubes on to a piece of plywood or a 2X6, (instead of the concrete floor) Reposition the jack to the rear slightly, jack the bike up with your right hand on the handle bar again, pull the bike upright, and raise the jack until the rear wheel clears the floor. Pull the rear axle exiting the right side of the bike, I then use a 2X4 to "lever" the rear wheel until it disconnects from the final drive, then by raising the jack and "leaning" the top of the wheel to the right, you will be able to roll the rear wheel out from under the rear fender without removing it. The bike will need to stay on the jack until you have the new tires mounted. If your jack came with a "safety strap", use it. You can lower the jack somewhat so the bike is not so "shaky" until you are ready to reinstall the new rear tire. Reverse the procedure to install the wheels with the new tires, rear wheel first, reposition the jack and then the front. With the bike on the new tires, put it on the center stand, install the calipers, mufflers, and side bags. It takes a bit longer to do it this way, but it is much safer than trying to remove the mufflers while it is on a jack. When you start pulling on wrenches while the bike is on the jack, you will see what I mean. After you put your bike on the jack a few times, you will feel more confident about the bike being in the air and will be able to modify this method of lifting your bike, but in the beginning, you will almost "faint" more than once when your 800 pound motorcycle comes off the side stand and you have to pull it upright to square up on the jack! ONLY LIFT THE BIKE HIGH ENOUGH TO GET WHAT YOU NEED DONE! As always, please feel free to PM me if you have questions, and I am sure that the more experienced jack users will get a chuckle out of this description. Earl
  10. skydoc_17
    This is looking like the "Battle of the BLING" Earl
  11. skydoc_17
    Hey Evan, Thank you for sharing your story with me, as well as Freebird! It is uplifting to know that when you take someone at their word, when the truth turns out to be a lie, it is not on you, but the person that fabricated the lie. I have had such positive interaction with the members of this site that I sometimes forget that other people are not as honest and forthright as the members here. To Jeff, (Muffinman) I just wanted to say that there is no reason for you to feel bad, you are a very busy person and I didn't feel right putting this inspection off on you. If the bike would have been a block away, I might have considered it, but 4 hours each way is a bit more than I felt comfortable with. Not that you would not have done it, (you did offer) but it is not in my nature to burden someone else with things that I should do for myself. I try to come "proper" when I deal with people, it's just the way I roll. I sometimes forget that not everyone carries themselves in that manner. This trip was an excellent "wake up call" for me and reminded me to expect the best from people, but be prepared for the worst. If this helps the members of this site realize that you can't take things for granted, then it was time and money well spent. Thanks for EVERYONE's help. Earl
  12. skydoc_17
    Hey Pete, Is this the same shop that bunged up the threads on your front axle??? If it is, bring it to his attention and get him to reimburse you for the Heli-Coil kit you had to buy! I have seen a few "heavy handed" mechanics in my time, and the results are ugly at best. I hope this shop gets your bike taken care of. This is the kind of thing that makes me work on my own scoot. Earl
  13. skydoc_17
    Well, I left at 3AM Friday morning and drove 550 miles to the South Eastern corner of North Caroline with my truck and a rental trailer to pick up the 92'VR that was listed in the Ad posted at the beginning of this thread. I had spoken with the owner a dozen times and asked EVERY question I could think to ask to try to confirm if the bike was worth making the trip for. Well, to say that I was surprised when I got there was an understatement! The pics of the bike were more than a few years old, When the owner transported the bike from Virginia to North Carolina it had gone down HARD on the right side, every piece of plastic from the front to the rear was broken beyond repair! EVERY area of the upholstery had rotted long ago and the foam padding had turned to dust. All of the chrome pieces had a very bad layer of rust on them and the rear chrome aftermarket bumper as well as the red YAMAHA reflector were broken into multiple pieces. This bike had sat outside for a LONG time! (Years) Because of the false statements the seller made, I could not be sure that the motor would be usable, and the condition of the electrical wiring did not allow me to install the good battery I had brought to try to crank the bike. Not to mention the fuse box had melted in more than one place so I was suspect that the CMU and TCI might be fried as well! To say that the seller "totally misrepresented the condition of the bike" is being kind! I truly believe that by having me drive all the way from Pennsylvania with money in hand would force my to purchase the bike even though there wasn't a decent part on the bike worth having, not to mention, getting the bike running was almost out of the question! The seller attempted to "bully" me into buying the bike saying that he had passed up other offers to "save" the bike for me! Well, as many of you know, I hate to get ripped off, so I told the seller that if he hadn't "lied" about the condition of the motorcycle, I would be loading it on the trailer at this moment. I have brought more than a few First Gens. back from the "dead", but there wasn't even a "pie hole" to breathe life back into, on this one. For anyone that is interested in viewing this motorcycle, please feel free, my business is done with the seller. It sure was a lonely, disappointing ride home! For all of the VR.ORG members that offered me lodging and food, I thank you ALL very much! After viewing this motorcycle, I was in such a bitter mood, that I would not have been very good company. Because I took the time to view this motorcycle with my own eyes, I don't feel like the travel money was ill spent. The fact that I "walked away" from this attempted scam, reminds me that I have the choice to say "NO" and not get caught up in the excitement of the moment. The money I spent to remind me of this fact was money well spent. When shopping for a 20 plus year old used motorcycle, remember to use your head, not your heart. Thanks for letting me rant. BUYER BEWARE! Earl
  14. skydoc_17
    Hey Brian, The inner and outer Nylon washer allow the rear brake pedal to pivot on the brake pedal shaft and take up space in this assembly to keep the brake pedal from rocking and sliding side to side. If the rear brake pedal doesn't rock, slide side to side, or bind up then the cracks are basically cosmetic. Jack has made a good point, just replace the outer spacer, (the most visible) and select a spacer thickness that removes the "slop" out of the rear brake pedal. Too thick of a washer will bind the brake pedal, (BAD Thing!) You might want to pick up a few different thicknesses of Nylon shim, use the one that fits best, then return the rest. Earl
  15. skydoc_17
    Hey Tom, The New York "Posse" has always been very kind to Jean and myself! More than once you have opened up your hearts and your homes, shared your food, and your Ice Cream with this weary traveler from Pennsylvania. You Sir, are a "Group Hug" all by yourself! I have NEVER met a man that has such a commanding presence, a "mountain" of a man, but yet has such a gentile spirit, you are kind and thoughtful. A man with paws like a bear, but the touch of a child. You Sir, are an Enigma, wrapped in a Riddle. I have been on the receiving end of your kindness and generosity, and can't imagine how you do the job that you do for a living. You have my up most respect, and I am proud to call you my friend. The way that you and Taters "fuss" over each other is a role model that this world could use more of. The entire NY Posse is a great bunch of people, and You Tom, and Taters, are the "icing on the cake". (and brother, that's a LOT of icing!) Earl and Jean
  16. skydoc_17
    You should be able to find a Harbor Freight, or a Wal-mart close by. Purchase a "Come-a-Long", a ratcheting cable lift for about $20.00 or so. Attach the Come-a-long inside the truck, (you may need to "Extend" the length of the come-a-long with a motorcycle tie down when you first start pulling it into the truck, another good purchase to make) Pull the bike as far up into the truck as you can, block the wheels, use the come-a-long again, (possibly without the tie down this time) and keep moving the bike into the truck. When finally all the way in the truck, use the tie downs you purchased, (and the come-a-long makes an excellent tie down) to secure the bike for the ride home. While on your way home, check the bike from time to time to make sure it hasn't shifted. Be patient with yourself during the load, and be careful, use gloves with the come-a-long. Keep your son at a safe distance, preferably in the cab of the truck. Good luck, Earl
  17. skydoc_17
    Well, after speaking with Ron on the phone, It looks like I will be taking a road trip to NC this weekend! I guess I needed "another" project bike! (yea right!) I hate to see a good bike get parted out! I will let you know how it goes with the pick-up! Wish me luck, Earl
  18. skydoc_17
    Call your Ins. Company and verify that you have "Fire and Theft " Ins. on your scoot. If so, get a rental car, have it towed to the shop and pick it up when it is finished. If you don't have that kind of Ins. Go to UHAUL and rent the smallest TRUCK that will hold the scoot,(With Hack, unless it can be removed) like a furniture truck and truck the scoot home. I don't think this is going to be a "roadside repair", unless Muffinman is visiting LA. The brake lights are toast because the CMU is fried. I am sorry for your loss, I hope you will be able to minimize the inconvenience. Earl
  19. skydoc_17
    A few weeks ago, KEN8143 (Ken Yoder) contacted me with a list of items he wanted to address on his 87'VR before he went on vacation. He also told me that he just purchased his very own Carbtune and wanted to try it out on his bike. Now Ken is one of my favorite people to have over for a visit and Jean has accused us, more than once of "having WAY to much fun" out in the garage! So when Ken stopped by, I was ready for him part wise. Now one of the projects that Ken had on his list of "TO DO" items was to change his Valve Cover Gaskets. Needless to say, this is not a "fun" job, but in this case, it was way past needing done. Because you can't get a ratchet on the retaining bolts for the rear cylinder, the method I use is to pull up my roller chair and proceed to take the 8 bolts out with a 10MM boxed end wrench. To say that this takes some time is an understatement! Ken was on the other side of the bike and I heard him comment that, "there MUST be a better way to do this"! Then he muttered something else about, "having the patience of JOB"! At that point, we started to talk about "special tools", and how I wish I could afford to purchase some for jobs just like this. I then explained that because of my surgeries, and the fact that I have not been able to return to work yet, I was grateful that I had a 10MM wrench to do this job with. Ken pretty much dropped the subject after that, but before he did, he looked me strait in the eye and said, "That Won't Do"! We finished working on his bike, he did his OWN Carb. Sync. with his very own Carbtune, and Jean prepared us a wonderful lunch. We talked and laughed and then Ken had to head home. After Ken and his wife had returned from their vacation, I received a PM saying that his bike averaged mid 40's MPG wise two up, the bike ran flawlessly, didn't leak a drop of oil, and overall, he had a great trip. I was happy for him, as I always am when a VR.ORG member gives me the privilege of working on their bikes. Earlier this week, I receive a package in the mail, and much to my surprise, I find enclosed a set of Craftsman Metric, Ratcheting Wrenches from Ken with a note thanking me for taking the time to help him with his bike. Because of the events that have happened to me this summer, and the fact that I have not been able to ride and visit with the members that I usually see in the summer, I have cherished my contact with the VR.ORG members that have been kind to Jean and myself. Needless to say, I got a bit "choked up" when I opened the package and saw this very thoughtful gift from a dear friend. So when Jean came into the office and saw me "choked up" it turned into an all out "blubber fest". I know I have taken the long way around here to thank KEN8143 for his kindness and his fellowship. If you get a chance to share some pavement with this gent, it will not be wasted time. Thank you, Ken my friend Earl and Jean
  20. skydoc_17
    35. If they named a Hurricane "Earl", wouldn't it actually be a "HISSICANE"?!?!
  21. skydoc_17
    Hey Kevin, Both Jean and I are VERY Glad to hear that you are OK! We lived in Eastern San Diego for many years and although I never went down, I did scare myself more than once because of dusty roads in the So.Cal area. I hope that your Ins. Co. will be fair with you, and you will give riding another try. Really Glad you are OK! Earl and Jean
  22. skydoc_17
    Hey Stephen, I wish I could afford one of the high end Garmin's like a lot of the members have! The Garmin's are high quality, dependable units. For my birthday 2 years ago, My wife Jean got me the Garmin Nuvi 855W for my birthday for under $200.00. I have about 38,000 miles on it and it has performed flawlessly! With it's wide screen, and ease of use, I don't know how I rode before I got it. The coolest feature of the Nuvi 855 is that it has a built in MP3 Player and an FM transmitter so the sound of the "British Chap" that gives me directions AND all of the music I have loaded on the Mini SD card come right out of the Stereo Speakers on my VR! Is that cool or what?!?! I have several Mini SD Cards loaded with "Mood Music" for the different types of riding I like to do, weather it be carving a bunch of twisties, "Smokin' The Concrete Slab", or a nice Sunday ride with Jean, I am good to go with my Nuvi. It has been in the rain several times with no ill effects, and I carry a baggie for the "gully washers" I have used the baggie two or three times and I could still see the screen and the baggie kept the unit dry. For the difference of $400.00 to $500.00 between the two units, you can buy a lot of baggies. :crackup:They even make the Nuvi 865 that has blue tooth but I really don't talk on the phone much when I ride. I have a ram mount and power cable in our Nissan and the GMC Jimmy and we just move the Nuvi into which ever vehicle we are driving that day. With the Nuvi, the cable to connect the unit to the battery and my "home made" mount, this was the best $300.00 I ever spent on my bike! :dancefool:I ride ANYWHERE I want to now and when it gets close to dinner, I just push the "GO HOME" button and I am never late for dinner! It doesn't get any better than that. Earl
  23. skydoc_17
    Hey Buz, Thank you very much for the kind words. It is always a pleasure to help a fellow VR.ORG member! One of the best things about this site is the way we help each other. I have learned so much, and made so many friends on this site, that the value of the $12.00 I spend every year is unmeasurable. Ride Safe, Earl
  24. skydoc_17
    Hey Cliff, Welcome to the site! Here is a suggestion about putting "the pig" up on the center stand, first us the air ride controller to pump up the rear suspension to high, the same with the front. With the ball of your right foot on the "horn" of the center stand and your right hand on the passenger grab rail and your left hand on the handle bars, "Lean back towards the rear of the bike, lock your knee joint, step down on the horn, and pull the bike back wards with your right hand. (not up) If all else fails, a 11/2" galvi pipe nipple from home depot makes a great extension for the stand horn. You will find that the higher air pressure in the rear of the bike will make the bike "Lean Better" as well on the side stand. Again, welcome to the site, keep asking questions, Earl
  25. skydoc_17
    Hey Dave, Far be it from me to try to change your mind about something that makes you feel "warm and fuzzy" about the brakes on your bike, and my dad had the same opinion when he worked on his brakes, but because the friction material is no longer riveted to the backing plate, it is "bonded" (epoxy glued) you should be able to swap the pads from side to side as long as the brake pads were not overheated. This would be evident by a blued up rotor. As with many things pertaining to your motorcycle, this is a personal preference. If money isn't an issue, then by all means, install new pads every time. If your handy with a wrench, and take a few minutes to swap the pads, you will get more mileage out of them with few, if any problems, as long as the caliper is functioning properly. Just and "FYI". Earl
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