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Rocket

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Everything posted by Rocket

  1. 10 MM allen key socket on my 83, George.
  2. Probably they are not even getting the correct one. There is a copper gasket (or should be) at the allen head bolt, threading up into the damper rod, from the lower tube (just above axle shaft). 2 O-rings, for the anti dive unit, another gasket for the drain screw. This is per each fork leg, on the bottom end. Are they are doing more than just cleaning it up? Sounds like that is all they are doing. Any signs of leakage from the upper seal, it may be hard to spot if the oil is clean & a slower leak. Refer to this thread for more info, to go over it yourselves http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=496
  3. Yup, a 2nd gen thing.:bang head: Our rear & left front brakes are linked.
  4. You could go with a inch pounds torque wrench for the light stuff. Just take the ft pound readings X by 12 to convert to inch pounds. But many of us just make sure the item is snug without, using a torque wrench if below the scale.
  5. I think all the stock rotors are solid. Looks like EBC makes floaters for the 1st gens, as I have been looking into them for later on. Sometimes hard to tell as pic shows a floater, sometime write up doesn't mention it being one. He had gotten an rotor from MAW, probably an EBC replacement, wanted to point him to the Squeeze's info on rotors. As he seems to be a great source of tech info, his knowledge is greater than mine.
  6. Sounds like the rotor is a full floater. Check out this thread, read Squeeze's reply. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6670
  7. Yup, but there are changes to be made though. The anti dive is electric, not hydraulic & the brake pads, calipers & rotors are different as well. Some install this setup to get an brake upgrade.
  8. Most likely, clean the steel plates & put in the spring conversion kit. I have replaced the springs in my 83 & that solved the occasional slippage in 4th & 5th. The 1300 engines have a diaphragm pressure plate, which is swapped out in this conversion.
  9. This is the conversion for the 1300 http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/spring_conversions.aspx?cat_id=6&prod_id=36 They have a dealer locater near the top of the page.
  10. It was previously suspected last year, I just confirmed it this week. See my gallery Pics, for a better idea of the damage done. The left side fork seal started to leak recently, I pulled the tube to change it. The 1 1/2" X2' ABS tube that I use as a seal driver, was rubbing on part of the fork tube, just below where the bottom triple tree clamps the tube. With the slight bend it had shortened my wheelbase a bit, but otherwise all seemed normal.
  11. Recently found out my fork tubes are slightly bent, from last years deer impact. So I am ordering a set of Franks Forks, as replacements $245 pair Vs $198 each from yamaha (best price found). I am changing out all the fork bushings too. Yamaha doesn't list the upper tube bushing separately from the fork tube itself & after some searching I found racetech.com does have the bushings listed.
  12. Another possible option, see this link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1063
  13. Here is a listing of the various J & M cords, need to know which series you need. http://www.sierra-mc.com/categories.asp?cat=29
  14. The early 1st gens, indeed have high reading guages, due to calibration issues. Actually, the temps are lower outside the city, as the bike is getting air, not sitting waiting for traffic lights & other traffic to move. Normally the fan only comes on when stuck in traffic.
  15. Here is the likely fix to your problems, as the E4 is common. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493
  16. Sorry, that search link had expired, try the Search & use YV-41as search terms,for more threads. Here is one of the threads that would have come up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2606 Here is the link for buying the cables http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JM%2DYV%2D41
  17. From the manual E2: Air pressure does not rise when the air compressor is operated.. Look for leaky pipe, clogged compressor suction port (intake air filter), or dryer clogged. There is one other possibility, to change the compressor.
  18. Nope, they were options. I had to search for the interface kit info last year, have been passing it on as others ask, to add intercom to their bikes.
  19. In the earlier years, this was an option, like the cb radio was an option. Apparently J & M made the cables for Yamaha in the first place.
  20. Check out these threads http://www.venturerider.org/forum/search.php?searchid=231400
  21. The years after 83, have reserve, we have on / off only.
  22. Not sure, but they make a replacement spring for the rear shock, as well as a non air rear shock.
  23. Sounds like a possible CMS error to me, check the solder joints first. The repair is similar to CLASS controller fix. If no cold solder joints are found, then check other components.
  24. It is a level switch, mounted in the oil pan. A low wattage soldering iron & rosin core solder will fix it up the cold solder joints.
  25. Is there enough expansion room in the clutch master cylinder, for heated fluid? If it is too full, the clutch may not fully release, possibly cause slipping. Also, there is a replacement Barnett pressure plate available, for the 1300 version of the 1st gens. This is similar to the one on the 1200 model.
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