ken
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Everything posted by ken
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The taillight is LED. I got it and the smoked turn signal cover front and back from Phats Preformance. The LED taillight is hard to find. Here a copy of my order with the part numbers......................................................... CTL-0038-L-SClear Alternatives LED Taillight Lens - Smoke Various Yamaha 1$62.957800.................Kuryakyn Master Cylinder Reservoir Cover - Pair 1$21.95.....................CTS-0018-F-SClear Alternatives Turnsignals SMOKE - Yamaha Cruisers (Except Warriors) 1$14.95.....................CTS-0018-R-SClear Alternatives Turnsignals SMOKE - Yamaha Cruisers (Except Warriors) 1$14.95 Sub Total: $114.80 Tax: $0.00 Shipping: $0.00 Grand Total: $114.80s.
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Ebay has them for 59 bucks! 8" or 10" new.
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I'm 5'7" and the shield 10". I got it off ebay for 59 bucks. I look just over the top.:):)
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I can toss the back seat on in about 3 minutes so the boss can go for a ride.
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Well I've spent the winter doing all the PM's I could do. Just finished with the new tires, brakes and the Star Glide conversion. So here are the pics. http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg318/2057ken/006-1.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg318/2057ken/005.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg318/2057ken/002-1.jpg
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Well I'll give it a shot. 1) After removing the wheel there will be a black sensor bolted to the left side attached with a phillips head bolt. Remove that and just let it hang. 2) Drain the final drive gear oil. 3) Remove the four acorn nuts. 4) Slide the final drive off. It should pull right out with the drive shaft attached. 5) Remove the drive shaft from the final drive. Just pull and wiggle (just a little) and it will pop right out. Careful not to loose the spring. 6) Clean the shaft and final drive gears and check the gears for damage. 7) Moly 60 on the drive shaft end that goes in the yolk. 8) Remove the left side cover and look for a rubber plug. Pull out the plug and with a flash light you will be able to see the ujoint that the shaft slides into. Get a pcs of wire, like a coat hanger and bend the end to a "U" shape. Use the hanger to grab around the "ujoint" and pull it up just a little. Hold it up while you insert the drive shaft back in. You should be able to feel it slide in. Remove the hanger and look in the hole where the rubber plug goes and spin the drive shaft with the bike in netural. You will be able to see the "ujoint" move with the shaft. 9) Moly up the other end and the gear in the final drive and push it back on the shaft. Install the acorn nut, but only hand tight. Put the wheel back on after lubing up the hub gears and torque it to 110 ft lbs. to align the final drive. Tighten the acorn nut. Put the sensor back on. Refill the Final Drive gear oil. Put the rubber plug back in the yolk. Now while you at it might as will moly up the rear shock bolt. If your also greasing up the hub check the tech section. This is how I did it!
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I'm thinking you should have put the wheel on and torqued it to 110ft lbs to make sure everything was aligned, and then torque the acorn bolts.
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With a little time to spare before work today I decided to start the job to pull the final drive and lube the drive shaft. In a matter of two hours I was able to pull the tire, remove, clean, moly and reinstall the hub. Pull the final drive and drive shaft clean her up, moly it and reinstall it. I was pleasantly surprised how easy and quick it was. Guess I’ll be putting this job on the yearly to do list.
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Bolts are driving me nuts!
ken replied to VentureT's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I feel your pain. I have an 02 RSV and everytime I do something to it I have a stuck stripped or broken bolt. Then of course I have to drill, grind or break something to get it out. In the last few months I've had to drill one out of the fairing and a rear turn signals. Had to grind one off inside the left saddle bag, and spin one out on the lower right fairing. Still have on stripped on the right side frame cover. -
I have a few scratches in my front rim that I would like to fix. Other then sanding and polishing is there another way to fix the scratches. Or is sanding and polishing the best? If so whats the best polish to use?
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19 officers short. Maybe I should come up and apply. Pay checks at my department has gotten smaller 4 yrs in a row and we keep hearing about possible lay offs.
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Working, Working and oh yeah more Working, and when I'm not working I enjoy running. I ran my first Marthon (thats 26.2 miles) last year at age 40 on the Towpath south of Cleveland. I also enjoy and seem to have a knack for fixing things.
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:no-no-no: After getting the RSV midnight back together, well almost back together. Still have to change the rear tire, pull and lube the drive shaft. Any how I decided to do a little cleaning. I had just picked up Turtle wax's Black Box. This is a wax that is made just for black paint and is advertised to do away with cob web aka very fine scratches in the clear coat. Well to make a long story short. IT DOES NOT DO THE JOB! It was a process you had to follow, several step and when all done I had more cob web then what I had when I started. So I guess I'll be getting the buffer back out and the Hi Tech Yellow wax.
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Ok it’s official! I’m an idiot. So here’s how I discovered this. I’ve got my RSV up on the lift for a maintenance. So today I tackled changing the brake fluid and clutch fluid. I did the rear brake and then the front. Everything went smooth as silk. Then came the clutch fluid ,now keep this in mind I’m doing this the old fashion way, (open the bleeder, squeeze the lever, close the bleeder, release the lever and repeat). So I get the fluid in the clutch changed , it feels good. So I decide to started her up and put her in gear to see how she shifts. While it’s running an I put it in gear it dies. Damn, I’m thinking there must be air in the line so I bleed her again, and again. Start her up, shift in to gear it dies. Well, at this point I come inside and log on to the forum and review the tech section again and do a few searches on bleeding the clutch. Every thing seems right. So back out I go and bleed her again, start her up, it dies. Then all at once it hit me like a BRICK! And I though to myself.. YOU IDIOT THE KICK STAND IS DOWN!!!!. I put it up and alls well. I hope I can get a little smarter when I pull the drive shaft.
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I've have always mounted them myself. I use to use PJ-1 balancer to balance the tires. Gona give Dyna Beads a try. Doing it yourself isn't hard at all, and the best thing is it free!! And we all like free!
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It's the inside of the lower that trashed. The plastic bracket that hold the rubber piece is broken and missing. Theres a bunch of glue in there where the po tried to fix it.
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At this point I'm not sure what I'm going to do. The left side where the bolt would fasten to is completly trashed from the PO. The right side is fine just need a few part. Saw far I've had to cut a bolt on one of the saddle bags, grind off a bold on the inside of the fairing, drill out a bolt on the left rear turn signal and now this one. I'm almost scared to dig in to the rear tire and drive shaft.
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Well I got it! I walked away (thanks Ruffy) got a cup of coffee and studied it for a minute. SO here is is what I did. I cut the end off an allen wrech so it was just straight, put it on my drill and spud it on high at the same time to pulling on the lower. No damage to the lower at all unlike the other side from the PO. I'm not sure but when I put her back together is this bolt necessary? Oh ya thanks for the help everyone.
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Well it just spins, but it's still in the lower. I tried to pull on the lower and at the same time spin the bolt. The bolt would spin, but it was a no go.
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I seems like everything I do on my 02 RSV I end up with a stuck bolt!! This time it's the back bolt on the right lower. I discovered the left was already damaged after I got that side off. I'm guess the PO had the problems with the bolt on that side. This is one that I some:confused07:how have to get out to change the breather and have acess to the fuse panel. Open to ideas. Right now the bolt just spins either way.
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Well today I changed my fuel filter. Went with the F10024. Wasn't to bad took about 30 minutes. One think I noticed was how long the fuel pump ran. Before it would "click" for about 10 seconds. With the new filter it only clicked about 2 seconds. Anyhow the chicken thing. After getting the filter changed I started her up to check for leaks. While it's running I hear was sounds like a "chicken cackling" near the front of the engine. I gave her some rpms and the noise went away but came back when the rpm's came back down. I'm wonder If the noise could be the water pump? . Now for to the coolant. Should have time for that, then it's off to work. :depressed:
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I'm going to give Dynabeads a try when I put on my new rubber. Does any one know what the amount is that goes in each tire. What I've found so far is 1oz in the front and 2oz in the rear. Does this sound right.
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Where would one find speed bleeders? I would guess they would be cheeper then a vacuum pump. Either way I'm going to get one or the other.
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There is a set on Ebay right now.
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Just picked up a full set off ebay front and rear for 47bucks!