Flyinfool

Thanks Sarges46, that is the thread that I was looking for. I have the reflectors off the bike now and am working at trying to separate the red lenses. I will start a new thread detailing my progress, or lack there of. My new thread is here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41588

There was a thread a while back where someone peeled open the reflector on the trunk of a 1st gen and installed strips of LEDs to act as running brake and turn signals. I have been doing searches for 2 days and can not find it. I really do not like having just one light on the back of the bike at night. I have about 6 feet of the red LED strips left over from a different non bike project that I can now use for this project. I will be creating a progress thread of the illumination of my Venture with links to products used and any special procedures or techniques that I had to use. I will be skirting the edges of the law and adding as much light as I can figure out how to, with out getting in legal trouble. A lot of what I intend to do is scattered about on VR.org and will end up getting compiled here, I also have a few new ideas . The steps will be completed in order of importance with safety first, functionality second and cosmetics last.

You do not want to just keep replacing blown fuses. They tried that here at work and finally found the problem area when that part of the plant started on fire.

To me the ideal deer is 1-1/2 year old doe as far as meat goes. Many hunters want the bragging rights of getting that monster buck. I know people that their only interest is in that rack, they donate the rest of the buck to a food pantry. A good decoy does make a difference. I set the decoy up as a small 8 point buck right on the trail near a scrape where it can be seen from as far away as possible, and use an appropriate scent near the decoy (Never put scent on the decoy for safety reasons). When the big buck hangs up just looking at that smaller buck all it takes is a snort wheeze challenge call and in he comes fast to kick some a$$. But be ready cuz he will come in fast for the kill and as soon as he hits it and realizes that hes been had he will move out even faster. I NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, use a decoy during any gun season. I don't need bullets from some yahoo whizzing around me.

I got my pump at a bicycle shop for $12. Have to wait till I get home to see what brand/model it is.

I used to ride all winter till I had to ride home from work in several inches of white fluffy "partly cloudy" a few times. If you dress the same as for snowmobiling, then the cold is not an issue for your body. Also, If you live in snow country where they use salt on the roads then you may not want to ride till you get a couple of good hard rains in the spring so that the road salt does not eat your bike for lunch. Unless of course you have the ability to thoroughly wash and rinse your bike as soon as you get home from each ride or don't care about the looks of pitted corroded aluminum.

I have been with my current bank for almost 30 years now. They have overdraft protection that pulls from my savings at no cost to me. When I deposit my paycheck on the way home from work and go check online the deposit is showing online by the time I drive the last 4 miles home. During the day I can see debits coming in and the account balance being less than 0 but they use the ending balance at closing each day to determine whether or not there is an overdraft condition. That means that I can make a large purchase with no funds in the checking and as long as I transfer or deposit the money before the end of the day, all is good. I like my bank They are also open for all business from 10am to 8pm 7 days a week. I could go in and talk to a loan person for that toy that I absolutely must have, at 7pm on a Sunday.

It is a step in the right direction. But I'll believe it when I see a cop out there with a db meter and tickets issued that stand up in court. I fully agree that ALL loud vehicles of any type or source need to be included somehow. As far as boom box cars, the city that I live in has a new ordinance that a driver can be ticketed if the radio is audible at 50 feet from the vehicle. I have not heard of it being used yet. I am not sure if that includes the radio on a bike since there are no windows to roll up.

I would think that it would be easy to have electric brakes on the car carier just like cages use with a heavy trailer. That would certainally help the stopping.

I just started my annual warm up for the hunting season. I shoot an 80lb Mathews compound bow. Starting the first of Aug I go out to practice 3 times per day, rain or shine so that I will be ready when the deer walk up. Now that the kids are all grown up and moved out, I only need to put 4 deer in the freezer to last me through the year. There was one year where I had trained the deer to hunt me. That was a fun year. Ahhh.... just 31 more days till bow season opens.

Actually you have it backwards, A red lens with a white bulb will filter out all of the light that is not red, all of the non red spectrum is wasted, putting a red led behind a red lens means that you will get the full rated brightness of the led coming out since the lens will only allow the red light to pass.

Every time you do this? How often do you need to change the tires on your SUV? It really takes a lot of air to seat a stubborn bead, When I have seen the bead seating tool used, you need to be aware that if you are not in a good stable stance that the force of the air leaving the tank will knock you over. Take video the first time you use it. A couple more options; http://www.gemplers.com/product/IN165/Radial-Truck-Tire-Bead-Seater-165-175-TC-50 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEETAH-Tire-Air-Bead-Seater-Seating-Tool_W0QQitemZ130320157250QQcmdZViewItem

Do you have the core out of the valve stem? Are you using a big enough air compressor and big enough air hose to supply air quickly enough? I never did like the concept of explosive tire seating. If not then your only other option is a service station, I would think that the charge to just seat the tire that you already have on the rim would be minimal, especially if it is a station that you normally frequent. Call around.

White grease is better than nothing. White grease has volatiles in it that will evaporate over time making it harden and lose protection. Silicone dielectric grease is specifically made for use on electrical connections. This is what you will find in all of the factory connectors and light bulb sockets on the exterior of your car.

I have found that on my GMC P/U I have the same issue with the positive battery terminal. It comes loose every 6 months, and had those exact symptoms. Now when I get the dead battery it will usually start just by tightening the terminal. I bought a spare battery wrench just to keep in the glove box. I think it something to do with the way the cables are connected to the battery, with there being 2 cables stacked on there, one of which goes directly to the alternator and is moving with the engine torque. The easiest way to check for a bad battery ground cable or connection, is to turn on all of the lights, and check the voltage from the negative battery terminal (Not the terminal on the end of the neg cable) to a good ground point on the engine or frame (again not the terminal on the end of the ground cable). If you get a reading of anything other than 0 volts you have a bad ground connection or cable. If you do not have a volt meter you can rig up a tester using some wire and a small flashlight bulb (1.5V or 3V). Connect it as above, if the bulb lights at all then you have a bad ground. If you connect the bulb across the battery or if the ground is really bad the bulb will burn out almost instantly.

First guess would be a small acid leak or some acid was spilled on the terminal during filling. Check the fluid level in that cell to see if it is low indicating a leak. CAREFULLY clean the terminal with baking soda and water being VERY careful to not get any baking soda solution into the battery. The baking soda will also neutralize the battery if it gets inside. The baking soda will neutralize any acid residue that is still there. If there is any acid present you will see the baking soda foam up. Keep cleaning till there is no sign of foaming. Rinse very good with lots of water. Get a new bolt and nut to reattach the terminal, the old one may have the anti corrosion (zinc plating) corroded away. Coat the terminals with silicone dielectric grease to help keep them clean. I don't know where to get them but if you can find them it would be better to use lead plated hardware instead of standard zinc plated hardware.

But that would be funny.

Dave I doubt that an officer would ever even consider crawling under a bike to look for a magnet, since it is not "controlling" the light but merely allowing it to work as designed and programed. Besides even though you know where the magnet is on my bike, you might be hard pressed to find it. Don My magnet arrived in a cardboard box that was approximately a 6 inch cube. I would hate to be owner of any computer equipment that was anywhere near this box on the truck. It could easily wipe out a hard drive or crt monitor from 6 inches away. I guess the magnet could pull a nail over that you would have missed otherwise. Tim Yes you can get Rare earth magnets out of a hard drive, but they are very tiny and weak compared to what I am using.

At this intersection "going no matter what" will turn you into a road pizza. As I mentioned in the original post it can take 10 minuets or more to find a hole in traffic to go through. Why not just have the light change and all of the cages stop to let you go through safely? But then I have talked to some people that enjoy the drama and excitement of "running" a red light. Buddy On the day I did my testing I went 5 for five runs thru the intersection with the magnet and got the light, I also went 5 for 5 without the magnet and did not get the light. I have not and do not plan to due further testing, I'm convinced. I can not guaranty that this will work for all intersections or all bikes, but I have not had to "run" a red since I put on the magnet.

HEY!!! Has anyone followed up on a $5 donation from the WI MD???? I seem to remember something about there needing to be one.

If the oil pan is aluminum like a 1st gen then the magnet will not stick. This magnet is not rated for Aluminum. Sorry, couldn't help myself...... I have not looked at a 2nd gen close but I would think that the same place would work as I used, on the center stand just above the pad that hits the ground.

That is where I have the magnet mounted. For the initial testing I just let it hold itself there and it stayed. Just for peace of mind I added a strip of the gray 3M double sided foam tape that is used to hold trim on a cage. Available at most auto parts places. A1 I understand that that is legal but I would rather the light changed for me.

OK I know that this has been discussed in the past. most recently that I know of, at [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2536]Turning left on a red when the light won't change. - VentureRider.Org[/ame]. Most of this info is in that thread, but that thread is a discussion on the legality of a left turn on red when the sensor does not see you so this info is kind of lost. While at the WI MD (thanks again Jeff) this subject came up for discussion. First some background. What got me started on this was a newly built intersection near my house that I need to go through often. I tried every trick that I ever saw for trying to get that light to change for me, since the pickup coils are under the nice new pavement and were put in before the final layer of pavement I have no clue to exactly where they are. I have tried; Lining up on where I think the coils are. Side stand down. Center stand down Turn off engine and restart. I wussed out on the one that says to get off the bike and lay it down on the coils. I tried all of these in many locations to see if I could find a spot and method that worked. None did. I tried calling the city to see if it could be adjusted and was told that it is adjusted per spec and that increasing the sensitivity to "see" a motorcycle will cause false triggers from large vehicles in the next lane. This intersection is so busy that it can take 10 minutes to find a hole in traffic to legally shoot through on the red. I have done some experiments with the concept of adding a magnet to the bottom of the bike. There are some commercial units available for this purpose, and some have tried mining old hard drives for the Rare Earth magnets, or use magnets from the hardware store, none of these have shown much promise or benefit, they are just not strong enough. The magnet that I used is a 2 x 1 x 1/2 inch N52 rare earth magnet. The magnet that I used is http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BY0X08-N52. It sounds small but it is rated as capable of lifting 195 lbs. Watch your fingers while handling this and think twice about where you set it down. This magnet will pull the picture on a monitor or TV from 2 feet away VERY possibly doing permanent damage, There are warnings that people with medical implants like pace makers or defibrillators not handle these magnets. I mounted this magnet to the center stand on my 1st gen since that was the lowest point on the bottom of the bike and I wanted to keep it away from all sensors and electronics on the bike. To date I have noticed no ill effects to the bike. I rode to the intersection from hell and as Murphy would have it a cage pulled up on the other side of the intersection to trip the lights for me. I went around the block and tried this 6 more times and every time a cage pulled up at the same time from across the street. Where the heck were all of these cages when I really wanted the light to change??? Finally I arrived at the intersection alone and within 20 seconds I was looking at my very own green left turn arrow. I did this 5 more times and every time I got a green arrow. So just to be scientific and make sure that there was not some other factor involved, I removed the magnet and left it a good distance from the intersection, and spent the next 20 minutes trying every trick in the book to make that light turn green. Nothing worked, just like before. The next test was to put the magnet in my sock and walked up to the light and I still got a green arrow, at which point I beat feet before the man in blue showed up and I would have to explain why I was stopping traffic on a busy highway by messing with the lights. I put the magnet back on the bottom of the bike and have not been held up by a signal light anywhere since last April when I got the magnet. I do still have to line the magnet up with where I think the wires are. If I pull into the center of the coil I still will not be detected. This is a minor issue that I can live with. I know that there are doubters. I know that even Snopes says that this will not work. I am just relating my personal experience. As a possible side benefit to this very strong magnet, I have found nails and screws sticking to it that may have been destined for my back tire. OK that was long, I'll shut up now.

Jeff I hope that it was not all of those rumballs in one night that made you function slowly in the morning. I tried to warn you......... And those were the mild recipe. It is Monday already and I still have a smile leftover from Saturday, that was a great time. I learned so many things there it will take a long time to implement everything. My ride home in the dark through deer country was pleasantly uneventful, I even got to watch a fireworks display that was straight ahead for about 10 miles. But I can see more lights (maybe a lot more) in my near future.

I get gas at the next station after the warning light starts to blink. So it is always different stations and diferent brands. I always use premium cuz it just runs a whole lot better. At Jeff's Maintenance day that he was so kind to host, I did get the carbs synched. they were very close to start with. That has not made any difference in the vibration. As long as I stay under 3K or over 4K the engine is smooth as silk. at 3500 the keys are bouncing up and down on the dash. Is there some kind of a mechanical timing advance that might be sticking and messing with the timing in that RPM range?