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Flyinfool

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Everything posted by Flyinfool

  1. Flyinfool
    I am pretty sure that I will be available that day. It even looks like there are some interesting roads just to the west of you for a ride. I'll have to see if I can get everything patched up on my bike by then.
  2. Flyinfool
    I use the other method. I wash the bike just once a year whether it needs it or not......... Is it always the same 2 cylinders that are not running? Will warming it up dry it out and make it run better?
  3. Flyinfool
    Are you sure that this is not the 3rd gen Yamaha..... Oh wait, If it was a Yamaha it would be advertising a cassette deck. Never mind.
  4. Flyinfool
    But then if you are looking to unload that backrest for an '88, (or even just the brackets that are different) let me know. I know just the place to put it/them.
  5. Flyinfool
    I was going by my observation and this http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1393. If you look just past step 17 at drive shaft removal. From the way it is worded I may very well be that the 1st gens are lubed with the oil and the 2nd gens are not. No wonder the 1st gens are faster..... Sorry to confuse everyone.
  6. Flyinfool
    Now you have me worried. Mine is definitely lubed by the oil. At least it was full of oil in the spline area. There were no metal shavings on the drain plug magnet at the last change about a month ago.
  7. Flyinfool
    On my '88 the rear spline of the drive shaft is definitely lubed by the rear end oil. When you pull the drive shaft out of the pumpkin you can dump all of the oil out through the drive shaft hole. That is also why there is an oil seal on the back of the drive shaft. It could be different on the 2nd gens, that is why I brought it up. But it was my understanding that the pumpkins are interchangeable.
  8. Flyinfool
    With all of those shavings floating around in there, and the rear spline being lubed by the same oil that has all of those metal shavings, how are the splines on the back end of the drive shaft?
  9. Flyinfool
    OK, how about plan 17.45C I did a search for "HeliCoil M18" on ebay and came up with the tap and helicoils for the M18-1.5 thread. Tap, ebay item 220248586715 - $28.75 helicoils, ebay Item 300433204516 - $11.99 for a 6 pack Unfortunately this is 2 different sellers, You can try to contact each of these sellers to see if you can get both from the same place to save some shipping. The tap is piloted to fit the existing damaged thread and is not supposed to need a drill, that will save you the cost and the extra step of buying a drill and drilling it out. Be sure to use lots of oil on the tap. The M18 thread is big enough that you should be able to get away without the "special" Insertion tool or tang removal tool. To install the coil there should be enough room to just use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn it in. The tang removal tool is nothing more than a punch that just fits the inside of the thread so you can use a small hammer and big punch to break off the drive tang. Just hold the punch tight against the inside of the thread at the end of the tang with the bend, NOT the free end. If you look you will see a notch in the wire which is where it will snap off. If you do this yourself you can get away with not having to pull the fork apart. If you go to a shop you will most likely have to bring them just the fork. I am not sure about the length of thread engagement, if the coils are to short you can put in 2 to get the hole fully threaded, if the coils are to long you can cut them off with a Dremel. If it is somewhere in between, put in 1 coil and cut off the second. Good luck
  10. Flyinfool
    I know I should have thought of this before MD. I'm sure that everything and everyone needed would have been there somewhere. Along with a LOT of judges.
  11. Flyinfool
    There have been a bunch of threads lately as to the best headlight for our bikes. Those that have the SilverStar Ultra feel it is the best, those with HID feel it is the best, most of us feel that whatever we have is the best. What I would like for some of us to try to accomplish, is a side by side by side by...... comparison of the different headlights available to us. There would be a Silver Star, Silver Star ultra, PIAA, And several different brands of HID, with maybe a stock thrown in for fun. The test could be held at a MD or possibly even a M&E that ran late enough. Before the test every one would need to make sure that all of the lights are aimed to the same point. The bikes would have to be lined up across a dark road and each take turns turning on their head light. It would have to be judged by everyone as to best illumination in both hi and low beam, beam patterns and even by someone a few hundred yards down the road looking back to see which was most visible and or was blinding oncoming drivers. That person down the road may even have a photographic light meter to get some actual non-subjective data. This way it will be as scientific as possible. Well at least as scientific as we can be that late in the day. What else needs to be added to this and how can we pull this off? This thread is not for the "I like what I have posts" but to try to determine what really works without 1 person having to go out and buy all of the systems to test.
  12. Flyinfool
    I consider $50 cheap for the Motorcycle HID performance that you get. It was the $400+ PIAA driving lights that are not cheap.
  13. Flyinfool
    But if you put rabbit food on the windshield then you will have rabbits jumping up to get it while you are riding..........
  14. Flyinfool
    HeliCoils are not hard to do, IF you have the right stuff. The process is; 1. Drill out the old threads using the specified drill size. A drill press works better than a hand held drill. 2. Tap the new hole using the supplied special HeliCoil tap. 3. Using the tool supplied screw the HeliCoil in till it is 1 to 1.5 threads below flush on the side that the bolt will come in from. 4. Using the supplied tool break the drive tang off of the HeliCoil. That's it, you have new threads that are stronger that what was there. You can order a kit from McMasterCarr. Still not cheap though. It is the large size that makes it expensive, most of the cost is the tap. The M18x1.5 is a common spark plug thread. It is common to strip the spark plug threads in an aluminum head. Many auto repair places will have the kit and you may be able to sweet talk them into doing this for you for just a couple of bucks or a case o beer.
  15. Flyinfool
    Did you pull the cable out from the top or the bottom? Was there a square head on just one end or both ends?
  16. Flyinfool
    I like it. To bad they only have options that must be hard plumbed. I wish they had an option that had remote valves that screwed onto the existing hose fitting that you already have there and connected to the control box with a cable. That way it would work for renters or those that do not want to tear-up the wall to have the hard plumbing done.
  17. Flyinfool
    I had that once except it was frost that would not wipe off easily. I had to stop every 3 or 4 miles and use a credit card to scrape off the frost. Just thinking out loud here as this just popped into my poor little head. I wonder if there is a easy way to put in a chunk of flexible hose from behind the radiator to act as a defroster????? Hmmmmmm....... It might even help to warm up the "bubble" for riding on those cold days. Hhhmmmmm.......... I new idea for me to work on.
  18. Flyinfool
    At least you had a way for the water to get out. When my washer hose went I did not know about it till the water was 3 feet deep in the basement. My basement has no floor drain or sump pump and does not leak water in or out. It all had to be bailed out, along with everything that got wrecked. I now change my hoses every 3 years. The Stainless braided hoses are still just the same plastic hose with a stainless steel braid over the top. When the plastic gets brittle with age it will still crack and leak.
  19. Flyinfool
    I also thought that the spline was lubed by the rear end oil. Or at least it is on my 1st gen. When I pull out the drive shaft I can (and did ) dump all of the oil out of the final drive through the drive shaft hole. Is it possible that you had a low oil level in the final drive causing insufficient lubrication to the spline? Jeff, to remove the drive shaft you just pull real hard. BUT, the reason it is coming out hard is because the oil seal is dried and all but glued itself to the housing. Plan to have to replace the seal if/when you do get it to let go.
  20. Flyinfool
    I would look closely at your horn wiring. The horn should not have been hot with the ignition off. If you let out some of the magic blue smoke that makes all electronics work, you will have to look closely at all of the circuits in the wire bundle. it is common for one overheating wire to melt insulation on adjacent wires and cause other problems. Those other problems may not show up right away but down the road as the weakened wire insulation breaks down. As to your immediate issue with the relay, I'll leave that to the 2nd gen experts.
  21. Flyinfool
    I sure had fun last year at the WIMD. Jeff was a great host. I am hoping that it will happen again on a weekend that I have free. I do not get out nearly enough on the bike and this is a good excuse for me to actually ride somewhere.
  22. Flyinfool
    DANG!!! That tax credit only applies to electric vehicles bought in 2009. There is now a 10% tax credit available for purchases made this year.
  23. Flyinfool
    Those PIAAs look really nice but you are certainly right that they are spendy.
  24. Flyinfool
    Nice trailer. Now you need to get another trip planned out quick to try it out. BUT, why are the Christmas lights still up on the house?????
  25. Flyinfool
    Check HID country, they have an H3 HID setup for your driving lights. Again at 35W instead of 55W.
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